Is painting a frame worth it?
#1
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Is painting a frame worth it?
I’v just acquired a 1986 Bianchi Squadra that was originally the Electric Rose color. It is badly faded…to the point where only the underside of the tubing retains the original color. Is it worth it to disassemble and paint the frame? I paid only $25 for the bike and it rides great. Thanks for any responses. No pics yet…you know, newbie rules.
Last edited by scrandalla; 06-12-23 at 04:35 AM.
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I’v just acquired a 1986 Bianchi Squadra that was originally the Electric Rose color. It is badly faded…to the point where only the underside of the tubing retains the original color. Is it worth it to disassemble and paint the frame? I paid only $25 for the bike an it rides great. Thanks for any responses. No pics yet…you know, newbie rules.
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That is definitely a question each individual will need to answer on their own.
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The Strada (at least of that generation) was an entry level bike.
If there is no rust present, and simply faded paint, I would have a hard time putting the money and effort into a paint or even powder coat.
There are too many better bicycles to be found with great paint and likely with higher end construction/parts...for the cost of the refinishing of your entry level bike.
Just ride it!
If there is no rust present, and simply faded paint, I would have a hard time putting the money and effort into a paint or even powder coat.
There are too many better bicycles to be found with great paint and likely with higher end construction/parts...for the cost of the refinishing of your entry level bike.
Just ride it!
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#5
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While you can't include pics in your posts yet, you can create a personal album under your BF user profile and upload photos there. If you do that, post the fact you've done it here and another member can (and almost certainly will) provide a "pic assist".
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Even though that was a "mid level" bike in its day, it has the same lugged Columbus frame as some of its more expensive siblings, and as you found out, are a great riding bike. Since it's not really collectible, go ahead and do a powder coat. It's definitely worth it. I'd call that frame a keeper.
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Here's another thread on that model of Bianchi.
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It may be possible that if you use an automotive rubbing compound on it, followed by polishing compound that some of the color may come back. It may be worth a try. If you don't have rubbing compound and just want to see if it is possible to get some color back try using toothpaste in an inconspicuous location. I try to reserve painting as the last thing to do after trying other things like touching up and polishing first.
#9
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While you can't include pics in your posts yet, you can create a personal album under your BF user profile and upload photos there. If you do that, post the fact you've done it here and another member can (and almost certainly will) provide a "pic assist".
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Pic assist (more in OP's gallery):
With a good cleaning, polish and wax, I'd imagine that frame would look just fine without a repaint.
With a good cleaning, polish and wax, I'd imagine that frame would look just fine without a repaint.
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Agree with CO_Hoya. Clean, rub, polish, ride with pride.
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Is it 'worth it' in the sense that you would recuperate the cost when you sell it? No.
Is it 'worth it' in the sense of you taking pride in restoring the frame, and this is a beautiful color by the way? Yes, of course.
That goes for a lot of things we do here in C&V-land. It's not going to make financial or any other kind of sense.
BTW, there are some nasty low grade components on this bike. This is a mid range Bianchi. It must have left with factory with better components than these.
Is it 'worth it' in the sense of you taking pride in restoring the frame, and this is a beautiful color by the way? Yes, of course.
That goes for a lot of things we do here in C&V-land. It's not going to make financial or any other kind of sense.
BTW, there are some nasty low grade components on this bike. This is a mid range Bianchi. It must have left with factory with better components than these.
#14
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I have splurged on exactly one professional repaint job, the 1959 Capo in 2003. Doing so probably made no economic sense whatsoever, but it does look stunning, and my wife regarded the expenditure as her 30th anniversary present to me.
I have rattle-canned a couple of lesser transportation beater bikes, but I wouldn't do that to anything halfway decent with original paint.
I have rattle-canned a couple of lesser transportation beater bikes, but I wouldn't do that to anything halfway decent with original paint.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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I have splurged on exactly one professional repaint job, the 1959 Capo in 2003. Doing so probably made no economic sense whatsoever, but it does look stunning, and my wife regarded the expenditure as her 30th anniversary present to me.
I have rattle-canned a couple of lesser transportation beater bikes, but I wouldn't do that to anything halfway decent with original paint.
I have rattle-canned a couple of lesser transportation beater bikes, but I wouldn't do that to anything halfway decent with original paint.
Now, let's see your '59 Capo!
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I understand your point, but what about a rattle can clear coat as lesser sacrilege? I had what I thought was a successful outcome a few years ago with an old mountain bike with scratches and chips - strip down, clean, polish and then a simple rattle can clear coat just to make the most of whatever shine there still was, offer some protection.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Pic assist (more in OP's gallery):
With a good cleaning, polish and wax, I'd imagine that frame would look just fine without a repaint.
With a good cleaning, polish and wax, I'd imagine that frame would look just fine without a repaint.
beyont that doing a good paint job is labor, chemical and cost intensive if you want it to last
paint from hardware stores can look great but is not durable
to get a good paint job
- all components off
- strip all paint from frame
- clean with paint prep, gloves only fron now on
- acid etch primer
- Sanding primer
- sand
- dust
- clean
- multiple coats of color closely following repaint time (don't forget respirator)
- multople coats of clear
- Decals if you can get them
- more clear
or powder coat
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Is it 'worth it' in the sense that you would recuperate the cost when you sell it? No.
Is it 'worth it' in the sense of you taking pride in restoring the frame, and this is a beautiful color by the way? Yes, of course.
That goes for a lot of things we do here in C&V-land. It's not going to make financial or any other kind of sense.
Is it 'worth it' in the sense of you taking pride in restoring the frame, and this is a beautiful color by the way? Yes, of course.
That goes for a lot of things we do here in C&V-land. It's not going to make financial or any other kind of sense.
1. Wash, polish, and lube everything
2. Wash, polish, and lube everything, plus replace worn out cables, tires, and chain
3. Strip it down and spray paint it yourself
4. Strip it down and send it out for powder coating
5. Strip it down and send it out for professional re-painting
If you intend to resell the bike, level 1 on this list is the only one that's going to add more value than it costs, and even that would be debatable on a more collectible bike. If the bike is the right size for you, I'd recommend going with number 2 and then ride it at least a few hundred miles to decide if you want to throw more money into it. Cost level 3 (spray paint) might sound like it's cheaper than number 4 (powder coat), but by the time you've bought paint, primer, drop cloths, sandpaper, cleaning supplies, etc.., it's really not much more to go with a simple, one- color powder coat. There is a lot more satisfaction in painting it yourself if it comes out looking good, but spray paint will never be anywhere near as durable and the first few times you do it won't look as good as powder coating. Professional paint is really expensive, and should be reserved for bikes that you really love.
Because we like pics here, I'm going to share one each from my collection to compare and contrast, spray paint, powder, and pro paint. I think this really highlights the value of powder coating.
Rust-Oleum spray paint with cheap (diylettering.com) decals:
Very good powder coating (Groody Bros) with replacement decals
Top-notch professional paint (Jeff Bock) with replacement decals
Up close and in person, there's no question about the relative quality of these. The pro paint is simply fantastic. It also cost three times as much as the powder coating. I paid $350 for the powder coating, including decal application and hand-paint fill of the fork crown. You can get a simple powder coat for less than half of that. The spray paint looks pretty good from 10 feet away, but it has some texture, and within 100 miles it was starting to chip.
My recommendations:
Beater bike -- wash (optional) and ride
Beater bike with paint and/or rust so nasty that it makes you not want to ride it -- spray paint if you want the experience of painting a bike, otherwise recycle and find something else
Daily rider that you really like with paint that can't be touched up -- powder coat
Show piece or the pride of your bike collection -- professional paint
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Last edited by Andy_K; 05-25-23 at 11:46 AM.
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It won't add luster/lustre, but it sure will look nicer without the competition from the accumulated crud that would come off easily with even a mild cleaning.
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#21
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Pic assist (more in OP's gallery):
With a good cleaning, polish and wax, I'd imagine that frame would look just fine without a repaint.
With a good cleaning, polish and wax, I'd imagine that frame would look just fine without a repaint.
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+1 for cleaning i/o painting here. And even before that if you could set that saddle on a trajectory, it would do wonders to the overall look, but its just my opinion.
Now I scrolled back to see if that is really that bad, and my opinion didn't change. But I have one question. Is it your riding height? In case yes, this frame might be too big for you.
Tiny EGOist, my Rossin triathlon went from a dark blue to roughly as light as yours (but in a mix of silver/blue/violet), I still hesitate to repaing as it would lose the special factor.
Now I scrolled back to see if that is really that bad, and my opinion didn't change. But I have one question. Is it your riding height? In case yes, this frame might be too big for you.
Tiny EGOist, my Rossin triathlon went from a dark blue to roughly as light as yours (but in a mix of silver/blue/violet), I still hesitate to repaing as it would lose the special factor.
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#23
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Haha, a new saddle is on the way. This one has got to go. The frame is 53cm so there was only one size smaller…a 50cm I think. When the new saddle arrives I’ll play with the height. It’s a close call on the size but hey, $25. The quill stem is odd…not OEM. If it were replaced with the right one then it would help correct the geometry.
Last edited by scrandalla; 05-26-23 at 10:50 AM.
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#24
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I've repainted two frames in my long life of cycling and wrenching.
The first one, the frame painter let me do the stripping and sanding to save money. That ended up being a bad idea because it took so long and was so annoying. I was happy with the result of his painting however.
The second one was a frame my friend had stripped and primed before selling it to me. I hand painted it with a brush. Considering my low skill level and the fact that this is my commuter bike, I'm happy with the result, but this was also a much bigger project than I had anticipated.
So whether you do it or get help, it's a big deal. If you have it done entirely by someone else, it's expensive. So whichever way you do it, it's worth it only if it's a frame you love very much.
I'm facing the decision with a third frame, and I've been putting it off for years. It's an eyesore, and it might rust if I don't get to it soon enough. I'll probably do whatever is cheap and quick.
The first one, the frame painter let me do the stripping and sanding to save money. That ended up being a bad idea because it took so long and was so annoying. I was happy with the result of his painting however.
The second one was a frame my friend had stripped and primed before selling it to me. I hand painted it with a brush. Considering my low skill level and the fact that this is my commuter bike, I'm happy with the result, but this was also a much bigger project than I had anticipated.
So whether you do it or get help, it's a big deal. If you have it done entirely by someone else, it's expensive. So whichever way you do it, it's worth it only if it's a frame you love very much.
I'm facing the decision with a third frame, and I've been putting it off for years. It's an eyesore, and it might rust if I don't get to it soon enough. I'll probably do whatever is cheap and quick.
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#25
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I've repainted two frames in my long life of cycling and wrenching.
The first one, the frame painter let me do the stripping and sanding to save money. That ended up being a bad idea because it took so long and was so annoying. I was happy with the result of his painting however.
The second one was a frame my friend had stripped and primed before selling it to me. I hand painted it with a brush. Considering my low skill level and the fact that this is my commuter bike, I'm happy with the result, but this was also a much bigger project than I had anticipated.
So whether you do it or get help, it's a big deal. If you have it done entirely by someone else, it's expensive. So whichever way you do it, it's worth it only if it's a frame you love very much.
I'm facing the decision with a third frame, and I've been putting it off for years. It's an eyesore, and it might rust if I don't get to it soon enough. I'll probably do whatever is cheap and quick.
The first one, the frame painter let me do the stripping and sanding to save money. That ended up being a bad idea because it took so long and was so annoying. I was happy with the result of his painting however.
The second one was a frame my friend had stripped and primed before selling it to me. I hand painted it with a brush. Considering my low skill level and the fact that this is my commuter bike, I'm happy with the result, but this was also a much bigger project than I had anticipated.
So whether you do it or get help, it's a big deal. If you have it done entirely by someone else, it's expensive. So whichever way you do it, it's worth it only if it's a frame you love very much.
I'm facing the decision with a third frame, and I've been putting it off for years. It's an eyesore, and it might rust if I don't get to it soon enough. I'll probably do whatever is cheap and quick.
I don't say, the whole act became as easy pouring a glass of water, but also not an everlasting torture with necessary crappy results anymore. Just stay away from the 2K "real" car laquers, which are the real stuff what car painters use in a can, but that does not mean they do not require the same professional safety equipment they (should) use when they spray with a compressor.
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