Is this Schwalbe tire worn out? or is it my corroded spokes? Not for faint-hearted!😁
#1
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Is this Schwalbe tire worn out? or is it my corroded spokes? Not for faint-hearted!😁
Here is my schwalbe - it has a blue thin line showing. I was getting a noise while riding with each tire rotation. It is a 20" Dahon folder that I ride 15 miles every day in all weather. The noise might really be the spokes - they had some surface salt air corrosion on them - I have now cleaned and treated with light oil. Here are photos of this tire and the rim.











Last edited by NYCDahon; 12-06-22 at 02:34 PM.
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I see age, but not a problem with either.
Of course, I'm biased my the fact that I'm not in pristine condition myself.
Of course, I'm biased my the fact that I'm not in pristine condition myself.
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I believe that the little blue lines running cross the tire tread cap is the puncture resistant liner just starting to show through the work rubber tread. In my world this tire is just at the worn out point. Replace soon, but likely to be a problem in the immediate future. This type of wear generally doesn't produce a noise, till the tube herniates out a casing hole...
Now spokes can and do make noises sometimes. Generally a clicking type. Sometimes at their crossings, other times at the nipples. Now that you have done some work on them this cause of noise might be different. Is it? Andy
Now spokes can and do make noises sometimes. Generally a clicking type. Sometimes at their crossings, other times at the nipples. Now that you have done some work on them this cause of noise might be different. Is it? Andy
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#5
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I believe that the little blue lines running cross the tire tread cap is the puncture resistant liner just starting to show through the work rubber tread. In my world this tire is just at the worn out point. Replace soon, but likely to be a problem in the immediate future. This type of wear generally doesn't produce a noise, till the tube herniates out a casing hole...
Now spokes can and do make noises sometimes. Generally a clicking type. Sometimes at their crossings, other times at the nipples. Now that you have done some work on them this cause of noise might be different. Is it? Andy
Now spokes can and do make noises sometimes. Generally a clicking type. Sometimes at their crossings, other times at the nipples. Now that you have done some work on them this cause of noise might be different. Is it? Andy
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How did you wear the sides before the center tread?
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If that were a auto tire I would say that it shows classic signs of underinflation. Never knew that a bike tire would show that much less ever seen that.
Do you need a new tire.... yes, you need a new tire, but you don't have to put it on until this tire gives up the ghost entirely by coming apart or goes flat more often than you wish to fix the flat. But have the new tire in stock so you don't miss out on any good days of riding. Tube too if you don't have one already as a spare unless that is tubeless.
Corroded spokes don't bother me either. But if they are making noises just rolling along, then you might need to have the wheels looked at and their spokes adjusted. The bike shop here will check them for very little cost. But it helps if you take the wheels off of the bike before showing up at the shop with them. That time saved of you removing them from the bike sometimes might be the difference of them looking at them right now or telling you a day or two.
Do you need a new tire.... yes, you need a new tire, but you don't have to put it on until this tire gives up the ghost entirely by coming apart or goes flat more often than you wish to fix the flat. But have the new tire in stock so you don't miss out on any good days of riding. Tube too if you don't have one already as a spare unless that is tubeless.
Corroded spokes don't bother me either. But if they are making noises just rolling along, then you might need to have the wheels looked at and their spokes adjusted. The bike shop here will check them for very little cost. But it helps if you take the wheels off of the bike before showing up at the shop with them. That time saved of you removing them from the bike sometimes might be the difference of them looking at them right now or telling you a day or two.
Last edited by Iride01; 12-06-22 at 04:44 PM.
#9
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Ebikes are more prone to underinflation simply because the ebike driver (I didn't say cyclist) never notices a difference.
This is why most vehicle drivers rarely check air pressure. It doesn't put them out of breath.
Oh yes, I have seen ebikes out there where I can tell they only have about 10-15 psi in the tyres.
A cyclist that regularly does 15 miles daily would notice almost immediately that the tyres feel wrong as they are pedalling more watts.
This isn't some trip to the corner store half mile away. If I knew I was going to do 15 miles of pedalling, for sure I would top up my tyres. I always do.
This is why most vehicle drivers rarely check air pressure. It doesn't put them out of breath.
Oh yes, I have seen ebikes out there where I can tell they only have about 10-15 psi in the tyres.
A cyclist that regularly does 15 miles daily would notice almost immediately that the tyres feel wrong as they are pedalling more watts.
This isn't some trip to the corner store half mile away. If I knew I was going to do 15 miles of pedalling, for sure I would top up my tyres. I always do.
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#10
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If that were a auto tire I would say that it shows classic signs of underinflation. Never knew that a bike tire would show that much less ever seen that.
Do you need a new tire.... yes, you need a new tire, but you don't have to put it on until this tire gives up the ghost entirely by coming apart or goes flat more often than you wish to fix the flat. But have the new tire in stock so you don't miss out on any good days of riding. Tube too if you don't have one already as a spare unless that is tubeless.
Corroded spokes don't bother me either. But if they are making noises just rolling along, then you might need to have them looked at and adjusted. The bike shop here will check them for very little cost. But it helps if you take them out of the bike before showing up at the shop with them. That time saved of you removing them from the bike sometimes might be the difference of them looking at them right now or telling you a day or two.
Do you need a new tire.... yes, you need a new tire, but you don't have to put it on until this tire gives up the ghost entirely by coming apart or goes flat more often than you wish to fix the flat. But have the new tire in stock so you don't miss out on any good days of riding. Tube too if you don't have one already as a spare unless that is tubeless.
Corroded spokes don't bother me either. But if they are making noises just rolling along, then you might need to have them looked at and adjusted. The bike shop here will check them for very little cost. But it helps if you take them out of the bike before showing up at the shop with them. That time saved of you removing them from the bike sometimes might be the difference of them looking at them right now or telling you a day or two.
Re: what Iride01 said above I hope we mean taking the wheels off, it sounded like a suggestion to remove the spokes from the wheels which I would not recommend
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I agree that a vastly larger volume, than typical bike tires have, will mean that the natural pressure loss will be less noticed. However, I have attributed natural loss much more due to higher pressures (2 to 5 times more than most cats need) and thinner amounts of rubber between the pressured air and the outside air. Andy
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if you depend on that for a commute, just be done with it and get new tires

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I agree that a vastly larger volume, than typical bike tires have, will mean that the natural pressure loss will be less noticed. However, I have attributed natural loss much more due to higher pressures (2 to 5 times more than most cats need) and thinner amounts of rubber between the pressured air and the outside air. Andy
Loss of air pressure is proportional to but not the same as air volume loss.
Differences in the pressure loss rate depends on 3 main factors.
The initial pressure, the volume to surface ratio, and the permeability (thickness and properties) of the tire or tube.
Bikes lose air faster because all 3 are against us compared to cars. However, the rate will slow as the pressure drops.
#17
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I keep the tires at 60 psi - honestly, the whole wheel is a bit off center - so I better get that resolved - I think that is causing this cornering wear. I have been using only the front break. Haha
I did change the tire - and it feels great now and both it and the spokes are very quiet.
I better take the time to align the wheel. Thanks for the smart feedback!
I did change the tire - and it feels great now and both it and the spokes are very quiet.
I better take the time to align the wheel. Thanks for the smart feedback!
Last edited by NYCDahon; 12-11-22 at 07:11 PM.
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Ebikes are more prone to underinflation simply because the ebike driver (I didn't say cyclist) never notices a difference.
This is why most vehicle drivers rarely check air pressure. It doesn't put them out of breath.
Oh yes, I have seen ebikes out there where I can tell they only have about 10-15 psi in the tyres.
A cyclist that regularly does 15 miles daily would notice almost immediately that the tyres feel wrong as they are pedalling more watts.
This isn't some trip to the corner store half mile away. If I knew I was going to do 15 miles of pedalling, for sure I would top up my tyres. I always do.
This is why most vehicle drivers rarely check air pressure. It doesn't put them out of breath.
Oh yes, I have seen ebikes out there where I can tell they only have about 10-15 psi in the tyres.
A cyclist that regularly does 15 miles daily would notice almost immediately that the tyres feel wrong as they are pedalling more watts.
This isn't some trip to the corner store half mile away. If I knew I was going to do 15 miles of pedalling, for sure I would top up my tyres. I always do.
I do notice as well but sometimes I get paranoid because of my suspension fork feeling so plush, which I also keep properly inflated and check more often than I need to maybe.
Not saying I disagree there are plenty of people who run with low pressure e-bike or not car or not.
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I check my tires regularly but with my Schwalbe Super Moto-Xs 650bx2.4 I am probably pumping once a month and not because I am letting them run deflated but they lose very little PSI with pretty standard inner tubes and I have a separate Topeak gauge and one on the pump. Thicker sidewalls and treads tend to lead to less air being able to escape. I am usually at 40-45psi as Hank Hill would say "firm with just a little give"
FWIW, I run thorn resistant tubes in my mountain bikes and it takes a few months for the pressure to drop to where I have to re-inflate.
#20
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Here is my schwalbe - it has a blue thin line showing. I was getting a noise while riding with each tire rotation. It is a 20" Dahon folder that I ride 15 miles every day in all weather. The noise might really be the spokes - they had some surface salt air corrosion on them - I have now cleaned and treated with light oil. Here are photos of this tire and the rim.




The second photo with the wacky wavey wear is very significant, I've never seen that before, and as suggested, could be from chronic under inflation.
Pretty tough tires to still be in one piece though.
Idea--i wonder if being 20inch tires the added rotational speed was a factor?
#21
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I've used regular marathons for ages on my commuter bikes and both these photos show significant tread wear. Heck I have some old 26x1.5 marathons with about 10,000 kms on them and look new compared to the wear on this tire.
The second photo with the wacky wavey wear is very significant, I've never seen that before, and as suggested, could be from chronic under inflation.
Pretty tough tires to still be in one piece though.
Idea--i wonder if being 20inch tires the added rotational speed was a factor?
The second photo with the wacky wavey wear is very significant, I've never seen that before, and as suggested, could be from chronic under inflation.
Pretty tough tires to still be in one piece though.
Idea--i wonder if being 20inch tires the added rotational speed was a factor?
#22
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I guess if you kept an eye on pressures then thats not it, but only you know if you rode them under inflated. If not, then they've just lived a good long life and have cried Uncle.
#23
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glad you changed tires, not worth it on a commuting bike to have to deal with a tire issue. You definitely got your monies worth out of that tire.
I guess if you kept an eye on pressures then thats not it, but only you know if you rode them under inflated. If not, then they've just lived a good long life and have cried Uncle.
I guess if you kept an eye on pressures then thats not it, but only you know if you rode them under inflated. If not, then they've just lived a good long life and have cried Uncle.
#24
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Marathons in general are pretty tough tires, perfect for commuting and such.
There are lots of flavours, yours are probably the regular version, as I now see that the stuff showing is the green stuff. Its teh Plus versions that have the blue anti flat protection layer.
#25
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sorry, not only do I have no experience with smaller tires, I am going on close to a 100lbs lighter than you, so not the right person to ask.
Marathons in general are pretty tough tires, perfect for commuting and such.
There are lots of flavours, yours are probably the regular version, as I now see that the stuff showing is the green stuff. Its teh Plus versions that have the blue anti flat protection layer.
Marathons in general are pretty tough tires, perfect for commuting and such.
There are lots of flavours, yours are probably the regular version, as I now see that the stuff showing is the green stuff. Its teh Plus versions that have the blue anti flat protection layer.
Last edited by NYCDahon; 12-13-22 at 07:08 PM.