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How much pitting is too much? Pedals

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Old 07-27-21, 08:24 PM
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AJI125 
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How much pitting is too much? Pedals

Only torn down one pedal so far and derusted. I was hoping to use these OEM pedals but it’s not looking good. These are the outer bearing surfaces (inners aren’t too bad). Is this just not worth messing with any further? Or would I maybe get decent life out of them if the inner bearing surfaces aren’t bad? Haven’t really dealt with much pitting in my bike ventures to this point - figure I should toss these in the bin for spare parts but if anyone’s got ideas I’m all ears. Of course I’d use new balls if I do rebuild them, just don’t want to waste my time and lose my bearings…







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Old 07-27-21, 09:17 PM
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I'd be looking for some new pedals. You might get a few more miles out of these while you look but they're well on there way out. Actually, they're gone.

Last edited by Hobbiano; 07-27-21 at 09:19 PM. Reason: added some words
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Old 07-28-21, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by AJI125
Only torn down one pedal so far and derusted. I was hoping to use these OEM pedals but it’s not looking good. These are the outer bearing surfaces (inners aren’t too bad). Is this just not worth messing with any further? Or would I maybe get decent life out of them if the inner bearing surfaces aren’t bad? Haven’t really dealt with much pitting in my bike ventures to this point - figure I should toss these in the bin for spare parts but if anyone’s got ideas I’m all ears. Of course I’d use new balls if I do rebuild them, just don’t want to waste my time and lose my bearings…







Agreed with these being pretty bad, BUT new bearings are cheap, like our own labor.

I often use regular thick axle grease and set these up just a bit loose when a build or a bike doesn't warrant or I don't want to give up on a part like this.

You can get a lot of life out of these if you want, albeit with a little compromise.

Never say die!
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Old 07-28-21, 12:57 AM
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Depends what the purpose is. How many bikes do you have? You can usually get some really good Japanese pedals for fairly cheap ($20).

I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.

@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
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Old 07-28-21, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Depends what the purpose is. How many bikes do you have? You can usually get some really good Japanese pedals for fairly cheap ($20).

I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.

@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
Like I said, a bit loose, tiny bit, no knock, minimal grind, patience grasshopper.
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Old 07-28-21, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by merziac
a bit loose, tiny bit, no knock, minimal grind, patience grasshopper.
I have no patience for loose pedals!

"Now snatch the [pedal] from my hand."
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Old 07-28-21, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by merziac
Agreed with these being pretty bad, BUT new bearings are cheap, like our own labor.

I often use regular thick axle grease and set these up just a bit loose when a build or a bike doesn't warrant or I don't want to give up on a part like this.

You can get a lot of life out of these if you want, albeit with a little compromise.

Never say die!
This. Likely last years and you won't notice anything.
What have you got to lose?
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Old 07-28-21, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by merziac
Agreed with these being pretty bad, BUT new bearings are cheap, like our own labor.

I often use regular thick axle grease and set these up just a bit loose when a build or a bike doesn't warrant or I don't want to give up on a part like this.

You can get a lot of life out of these if you want, albeit with a little compromise.

Never say die!
Sounds like I need to go get some axle grease and give this a try. Thanks!

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Old 07-28-21, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Depends what the purpose is. How many bikes do you have? You can usually get some really good Japanese pedals for fairly cheap ($20).

I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.

@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
As I was messing with this first pedal and looking at the bearing surfaces I thought of his headset thread too. Currently enough rideable bikes and this is an early 70s mostly period correct build in mind. And enough spare pedals laying around to get me moving at least. I think this is worth a shot but not stuck on these for the build, as it seems easy enough to find MKS and KKT pedals from the 1970s or so, and these are just (neat looking and OEM) steel cage MKS Unique Road quills.
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Old 07-28-21, 11:45 AM
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Toast.
But, I would measure and see if you could remove the race and sub a annular contact cartridge bearing. will need a jam nut to replace the cone.
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Old 07-28-21, 04:37 PM
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It might be an interesting experiment to see just how long it takes for the pitting to advance to a stage where there is no question about whether they are suitable for use. Make sure you keep track of the miles and check the pedal regularly.

Practically... I wouldn't use them for rides of any length, but I've got plenty of spare pedals that are in good shape.

Steve in Peoria
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Old 07-28-21, 07:07 PM
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Put in new balls and new grease (new cones if you have ) and ride on. I have pedals that are worn as well but I just ride on.
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Old 07-28-21, 07:22 PM
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What pedals are those? I've found that Campagnolo pedal cones can often be found, and will interchange with some other cones, e.g. Gipiemme, Ofmega, Miche. The cups in the pedal body appear to be in decent condition.
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Old 07-28-21, 07:53 PM
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As the few around here have said I would look at the cones and races carefully and determine if they are bad enough to toss the pedals. The biggest problem is the amount of weight per ball bearing used during a ride. The pedals are normally pretty durable and I have even talked wit a fellow who switched to Ceramic balls in his pedals. He is riding cross country on his bike and goes from co-op to co-op to get around. Ceramic balls need no lubrication but cost $5+ to start. But the upside is no maintenance. With old school pedals it is not always an option to grind the soft metal of the cones down to get them smooth again. Being soft steel they may not hold the polishing well. The outer races can be easily polished but the cones are a bit problematic. Smiles, MH
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Old 07-28-21, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
I have no patience for loose pedals!

"Now snatch the [pedal] from my hand."
prehistoric float
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Old 08-10-21, 08:59 PM
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Finally got some axle grease and rebuilt with new bearings (had a week vacation mixed in there too). Needed to get them done and off the workbench. The bad one shown in the pictures is going to need more adjustment (or maybe just toast). It either knocks slightly or grinds. The other pedal was surprisingly great with little pitting if any and spinning smoothly now. These are MKS Unique Road pedals from around 1972 (Campy copies apparently).

I also found some interesting 1970s MKS Unique Royal pedals on the ‘bay for relatively cheap so I’m gonna check them out and see how they compare, and maybe swap a cone if they’re built the same (or just use them).
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