thumpism 

Found several pulley-type bike hangers in a neighbor's garage during his yard sale and brought them today. Had to get them down and dragged them home in the rain.


I installed one under the loft rafters in my shop area to test it. Looks like it'll require some tweaking to the hooks for positive engagement and it also looks like the rope tends to ride up over the edge of the pulley rollers so I'll need to do something to prevent that.

Then I'll have to set up my scaffolding so I can reach the spots where these things will be installed eventually, but it'll be great to have the seldom used bikes up out of the way and wall space freed up for my shop window project. The list will never end.

merziac

That's the curse of having a real shop, the queue is endless.

Gotta be careful what ya wish for.

jdawginsc 

That's not a shop, that's a factory...

I need to build a shed for overflow methinks.

Pompiere

I just finished this Miyata for a friend. It belonged to his late brother-in-law and he wanted to fix it up so his niece could ride it in memory of her dad. My friend said the bike sat outside, by the garage for several years, but it had remarkably little rust.


1985 Miyata 310 (after)


1985 Miyata 310 (before)

Miele Man

Been riding my Rescued From The Dump (garbage) 1985 Raleigh Vector.

Tonight I took off the rear wheel and then removed the freewheel. It's a 6-speed Suntour Perfect in silver and is in fantastic shape as is the rest of the bike.

The rear hub was brown. So I put some Mother's cream aluminium polish on it, waited a bit then used a micro-fibre cloth to buff it up. that mother's is fantastic stuff! It took off all the brown, whatever it was and polished up the steel hub to like new condition.

Whoever it was that posted about Mother's products somewhere on these forums has my undying gratitude. It's great stuff and is available at a Canadian tire less than a kilometer from me. I bought a number of other Mother's products there too so that I can clean, polish and wax a few of my good bikes and components.


When I finish cleaning and polishing the other components I'll post some more images of this bike.

Cheers

Edit #1. Did some more work on t his 1984-1985 Raleigh Vector. Cleaned up the Suntour Perfect 14 - 28 silver freewheel and the Suntor spoke protector. Both cam up looking close to new. Also repacked the rear hub.



Cheers

deux jambes

Over the past few weeks I've been slowly assembling the second incarnation of the Eisentraut since it's been in my possession. It's been ridable for about a week and a half now, but only with a front brake as I needed to source a drop bolt for the rear. Finally got one! And today I hooked the rear brake up, installed fenders, and wrapped the bars. Took it for a little spin down to the grocery store.

I like it. And am much more appreciative of it than I was the first go around as I had built it up last year. Its not quite finished yet as I have plans to replace a couple of components, and add a few finishing touches, but it's good enough to call it "done" until next spring.

Dylansbob 

Just bought this for a little more than a tank of gas, Small dent in seattube. I haven't bothered to run a string, but it rides out no-handed so why overthink it. PO had upgraded to the triple and accompanying derailleurs, which works fine for me.
It actually reminds me of the Technium 480 I had as a teen in the way it flexes. It was also slightly too big, but why I got used to them that way.



'86 Trek 700 Tri

noglider 

I've been tutoring an 18-year-old man in various life skills. He likes cycling, and he outgrew his teenage bike. I found this bike on the road in the winter, put out with a FREE sign on it. The two of us worked on it to make it run again, pulling parts from other bikes and buying new shifters. I think it's a Specialized from the early 90s. It rides amazingly well, and I'm even a little envious of him now. He loves it.

clubman 

As my daughter came home to roost this month, I thought I'd show her delightfully mundane Raleigh Rocky. I picked this up for a song for and it was minty. I cleaned it up, repacked all bearings and added a Bob Yueh rack and Fat Franks. The 400LX group is smooth and it's got a Guaranteed 4130 Cromo Seat tube! I really like the concave Weinmann rims with Exage hubs.

Frankly, it's is a pleasure to toodle around on and the colours pop. We both like it.

jamesdak 

Lazy day off for me so I've been hitting some of the bike chores. I got my first flat last week on the rear of the Azor. I was wondering if I was going to regret not putting Marathon tires on there. Anyway, today I used Stans sealent for the first time and it seemed to do the trick. Good thing because that's a pretty complicated rear tire removal on this one. If the Stans hadn't worked the plan was to just patch the tube on the bike.



Then I pulled out the Olmo frame I've never built up yet. The front fork is off and I need to get the alignment checked before I do the build. Tire is leaning to the one side which I assume is nothing more than getting the dropouts aligned. I'll have the LBS check it either today or tomorrow when I get a chance to swing by.

I also noticed the drivetrain on the Serotta was a bit gunked up too. So I pulled off the chain this morning and put it in to soak. Need to check my records to see if I've ever replaced it. Measures OK pin to pin but it might be a good idea to just put on a new one. I also took apart the jockey wheel cage, cleaned all the gunk inside of it and then cleaned and relubed the jockey wheels. Went ahead and cleaned the FD and brake calipers while I was at it. Headset and BB were done when it got new housing and cables last year.

ascherer 

This came home with me yesterday, attached to a 70's Falcon San Remo, so now I have 2.

merziac

I love it when that happens when a bike comes home attached to a pump.

I usually only tolerate flat tops when the frame has a braze on peg but this one could go on the Mercian if the red is close enough, looks to be in ok shape.

ascherer 

It’s going to stay on this

Gnolo

Drilled out the seat post bolt on my newly acquired 1992 Basso Laguna. Nervous times, including a snapped drill bit resulting in a chip of paint out of the near perfect original coating!

Now trying to source a bolt.. M4 x 30mm socket heat cap screw, coarse thread with oversized head. Niche as hell, so will likely need to settle for something suboptimal.

Also trying to free the seat post by cooling it down. Aluminium in a monocoque carbon frame. No joy so far!

steelbikeguy

not really wrenching... more like "whipping".
i.e. chain whips.

specifically, the B19 cog on my SunTour Winner Pro freewheel was worn enough to allow the new chain to skip when pedaling hard.
I didn't have a spare B19 in my Big Box of Cogs, so I put a new(er) Winner Pro on the bike.
Then it occurred to me that the B19 cog can just be flipped over, although it's probably a good idea to file some chamfers onto the side of the teeth that will now be inboard.
While I was tearing the freewheel apart, it seemed like a good time to document how a "regular" spaced Winner Pro is configured, in terms of cogs and spacers.
Cogs are pretty easy to identify, since SunTour was nice enough to stamp the cogs with a letter designator. Spacers, on the other hand, have no markings at all, so its harder to know what you are dealing with.

Anyway... a quick photo of the cogs and spacers:


high resolution version: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5c5eed_k_d.jpg

The SunTour cogs are often made with a bevel/chamfer on the inboard side of the teeth, but not always on the outboard side. Here's a shot of the inboard side....



You can see the wear on the right side of the teeth, where the chain's pressure is exerted.

In this shot, the teeth on the left have been chamfered (with a hand file), while those on the right are untouched (except by chain wear)....


the freewheel has been reassembled (with the B19 cog flipped), and I'll need to make some time to give it a test ride. I'm not sure if I can motivate myself to pedal hard on a test ride though... the skipping occurred when I was out riding with some of my strong friends, and I was pedaling as if to save my life!

Steve in Peoria

jamesdak 

Still hacking away at the CAAD 8. Today was nothing major just swapped in some Look Keo Blade pedals and put on a new saddle that came in the mail today. And just now I swapped out the Vittoria tires for some brand new Veloflex Corsa Race with Vittoria latex innertubes. And BAM!!! First one of my bikes under 17 lbs. 16 lbs 15 ozs. I've been bitten by the weight weenie bug, LOL!

Once the Dura Ace 7800 brakes come in I'll swap those on, put on the carbon bars, the ST-7800 shifters and then recable it all up.


Grabbed this after swapping the pedals and saddle but before the tire swap.

retrofit

I decided to replace the original Weinmann brake blocks on my '75 Raleigh Grand Prix with Fibrax Rain Cheater brake blocks.

Out with the old...




In with the new...





Ready to ride...

rustystrings61 

I dismantled the 1988 Panasonic DX3000 I got Thursday for $40. It looks like it was ridden but babied. While it has an ancient and failing set of the stock Panasonic Tecnova tires, I don’t think they’re the originals - too much brake pad wear for that. The freewheel is a replacement Shimano 600 13-26 unit, and is probably the only replaced part unless the chain is a replacement too.

At this point I think cleaning and repacking all bearings, maybe a little polishing of the headset, new tires, cables and housings, clean the brake lever hoods and re-wrap the bars and it’ll be done. I remeasured it and it’s a 58 cm to top with a 56 cm top tube, so it may become the trainer bike. I’ll still want to take it out on the road, though.



As found, but with air in the tires and the bars and saddle correctly positioned

This morning before I broke out the Meguiar’s polish

Miele Man

Today I put a new old piece of cable housing (that's a perfect colour match to the still original brake cable housings) on the frame of my Raleigh Vector. The housing forms a loop at the top of the bottom bracket. Now the Suntour front derailleur shifts like new.

Cheers

thumpism 

Not wrenching, sawing. In preparation for the installation of those bike hangers I got last week, I cut some wedges that will permit the hangers to be mounted across (perpendicular to) the rafters and sit level so the ropes stay in the pulley grooves properly, a requirement determined during testing. I might also need to make some plastic shims to slip into place beside the pulleys and act as filler/retainer.

denaffen

I wrapped and shellac’d a water bottle cage.

hankamania

In the midst of an update to my dear wife's 2007 Trek 3700WSD. She couldn't get it to select the chainring she wanted. It would just grind. Everything worked great on the stand, and then it hit me - my wife has really tiny hands. The Shimano EF-50 shifters have a pretty large amount of overshift after the click to complete the shift, and then it returns to a more central position. She could push the thumb lever to the click, but not past that, because her thumb's too short.

Easy solution - switch her to a 1-by!

I decided on going 11-speed, so that if she ever wanted to try my direct drive trainer, it's already 11-speed. I bought both an LTWOO AX11 and a Sensah CRXPro groupset (they actually sent me an SRX Pro RD, which is the same, but with a barrel aduster), to compare the two and see which would work better. I was immediately disappointed to discover that the LTWOO shifter's release lever was thumb-push only, and in a position that would be just as problematic to reach as the bottom of the lever throw on the EF-50. I'll probably list the LTWOO stuff on ebay at some point, and the fact that I'd ship from the US should command a premium.

Her 3700 came with a 7-speed screw-on freewheel, so I built up a new rear wheel with a Shimano FH-RM30 hub and a Sun CR18 rim. It was my first opportunity to use the new Park TS-2.2P truing stand she got me for Christmas last year. I'd used a TS-2 when I worked in a shop in high school 30-odd years ago, and man, is it nice to finally have my own.

It's mostly built up, I just have the brake cables to run, and I have a chainline issue I should have anticipated, since I had the same issue on my GT that I converted from 3x9 to 1x12 a couple of years ago. The middle ring position is WAY too far out. I fixed it on my GT's FC-M580 by removing the BB cup spacers on the drive side and adding axle spacers on the NDS. But she's got a square taper cartridge BB with a 113mm spindle, and going down to a 103 will only bring it in by 5mm, and I need more like 12 or 15, so I've ordered some ring spacers as well. I do have plenty of chainstay clearance.

Before:



In progress:

noobinsf 

I haven’t been wrenching so much as dabbing, as in paint. I decided on a bright but humble flourish in the Eisentraut’s lug cutouts before I cover the whole thing in a clear varnish. I tried a couple of colors with Testors enamel pens and liked the way this red worked against the green. Inching forward…

Dylansbob 

Too "on-point"?

Mafac levers/VO 46cm Randonneur bar on a Peugeot mtb drop conversion

jamesdak 

Today I finally got rid of the nasty bar tape and leaking gel packs under it on the Trek 5200 I picked up this summer.. Also swapped out to a slightly shorter Ritchey stem and more compact Ritchey bars.