Brake Pads... Which ones actually have grab???
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Brake Pads... Which ones actually have grab???
I've been on bikes with wheel brakes that have enough grip to flip the bike! I have no current bikes like this but I have a few bikes that stop very well.
On the other hand... I have more bikes that make a whirring sound and gradually slow the bike. And yes the brakes are adjusted to where I can't bottom the lever out before my grip strength runs out (about 2/3 travel on the brake lever). And... yes, the pads are new (stamped Taiwan).
I take it not all pads are created equal. How do I know I'm buying good brake pads?
On the other hand... I have more bikes that make a whirring sound and gradually slow the bike. And yes the brakes are adjusted to where I can't bottom the lever out before my grip strength runs out (about 2/3 travel on the brake lever). And... yes, the pads are new (stamped Taiwan).
I take it not all pads are created equal. How do I know I'm buying good brake pads?
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Brake pads aren't the only thing that affects brake performance. Mechanical advantage is also important. Some levers have higher mechanical advantage than others, dual pivot and centerpull calipers have higher mechanical advantage than sidepull calipers, and where the pads are positioned in the calipers also affects mechanical advantage: pads positioned at the bottom of the adjustment slot will have lower mechanical advantage than pads positioned at the tops of the slots, although frame design and wheel diameter are what determines pad placement in the slot.
But back to brake pads: Kool Stop "salmon" pads have more "grab" than generic black pads in my experience. If you want to improve brake performance, the Kool Stop pads can make a difference.
But back to brake pads: Kool Stop "salmon" pads have more "grab" than generic black pads in my experience. If you want to improve brake performance, the Kool Stop pads can make a difference.
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Brake pads aren't the only thing that affects brake performance. Mechanical advantage is also important. Some levers have higher mechanical advantage than others, dual pivot and centerpull calipers have higher mechanical advantage than sidepull calipers, and where the pads are positioned in the calipers also affects mechanical advantage: pads positioned at the bottom of the adjustment slot will have lower mechanical advantage than pads positioned at the tops of the slots, although frame design and wheel diameter are what determines pad placement in the slot.
But back to brake pads: Kool Stop "salmon" pads have more "grab" than generic black pads in my experience. If you want to improve brake performance, the Kool Stop pads can make a difference.
But back to brake pads: Kool Stop "salmon" pads have more "grab" than generic black pads in my experience. If you want to improve brake performance, the Kool Stop pads can make a difference.
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What are the rims on the poorly braking bikes? If they are steel or chromed steel, nothing you can do except replacement will make them stop the bike well. If they are aluminum then perhaps cleaning them with alcohot as well as new Kool Stop pads will fix the problem.
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Brake pads make a big difference. I second the rec for kool stop salmon.
IMO, having good pads and cables (well, cable housing more specifically) are more important than the levers and calipers themselves.
I assume we are talking about rim brakes.
IMO, having good pads and cables (well, cable housing more specifically) are more important than the levers and calipers themselves.
I assume we are talking about rim brakes.
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An old Peugeot? I has a UO-8. Those rims are poor stoppers dry with even the best brakes and in the wet, well there's a reason they came with one of the best all time caliper brakes ever made. (Edit: Mafac Racers) And still, stopping was a gradual process.
So, Koolstop, yes. And if stopping in the wet is in your future, invest in wheels with aluminum rims. (Do all the rest of the stuff recommended above too: align the pads, keep cable and housings in good shape and running freely, etc.)
If you have an old UO-8 and do all this, you will have one super stopping bike and wonder what all the fuss about discs is about.
So, Koolstop, yes. And if stopping in the wet is in your future, invest in wheels with aluminum rims. (Do all the rest of the stuff recommended above too: align the pads, keep cable and housings in good shape and running freely, etc.)
If you have an old UO-8 and do all this, you will have one super stopping bike and wonder what all the fuss about discs is about.
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An old Peugeot? I has a UO-8. Those rims are poor stoppers dry with even the best brakes and in the wet, well there's a reason they came with one of the best all time caliper brakes ever made. (Edit: Mafac Racers) And still, stopping was a gradual process.
So, Koolstop, yes. And if stopping in the wet is in your future, invest in wheels with aluminum rims. (Do all the rest of the stuff recommended above too: align the pads, keep cable and housings in good shape and running freely, etc.)
If you have an old UO-8 and do all this, you will have one super stopping bike and wonder what all the fuss about discs is about.
So, Koolstop, yes. And if stopping in the wet is in your future, invest in wheels with aluminum rims. (Do all the rest of the stuff recommended above too: align the pads, keep cable and housings in good shape and running freely, etc.)
If you have an old UO-8 and do all this, you will have one super stopping bike and wonder what all the fuss about discs is about.
I'll have to try what you mentioned there. I'll bet it'll work great!
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I bought one of the Koolstop sets and it will skid the rear tire after a rev or two of the wheel. MUCH better than the stock old pads. I also saw that there's a leather pad available in some countries. These look like a good option as well but I'm happy with the Koolstop. Thanks for the recommendation!
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All my steel rim wheels hang in my garage unless I am running coaster or, sometimes, disk brakes.
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There's only just so much we can do with steel rims -- had 'em on my 1976 Motobecane, fine in dry conditions, sketchy in the wet.
Plan on scuffing up the brake pads occasionally to keep 'em grabbing. Lightly remove the glazed surface on the brake pads using a fine file, sandpaper, even a Scotch-Brite pad if that's all you have handy.
Wipe down the rims occasionally too. A little rubbing alcohol (plain, not with any oil like some rubbing alcohols have) on a paper towel is good enough. Or any spray cleaner that doesn't leave an oily or soapy residue. Not that picky, just wipe off the brake pad dust, oil from the road and puddles, etc.
Get some good used aluminum rim wheels when you can.
Plan on scuffing up the brake pads occasionally to keep 'em grabbing. Lightly remove the glazed surface on the brake pads using a fine file, sandpaper, even a Scotch-Brite pad if that's all you have handy.
Wipe down the rims occasionally too. A little rubbing alcohol (plain, not with any oil like some rubbing alcohols have) on a paper towel is good enough. Or any spray cleaner that doesn't leave an oily or soapy residue. Not that picky, just wipe off the brake pad dust, oil from the road and puddles, etc.
Get some good used aluminum rim wheels when you can.
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I bought one of the Koolstop sets and it will skid the rear tire after a rev or two of the wheel. MUCH better than the stock old pads. I also saw that there's a leather pad available in some countries. These look like a good option as well but I'm happy with the Koolstop. Thanks for the recommendation!
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