why bottom bracket no go in?
11-09-21, 01:04 PM
#26
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36mm x 24tpi.
11-09-21, 01:46 PM
#27
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It's just like car tires. People around the world get to experience the lovely mix of millimeters and inches when they need new tires. 
11-09-21, 01:48 PM
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11-09-21, 02:29 PM
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11-09-21, 03:18 PM
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Here in Ontario Canada I see plywood advertised as 4 feet by 8 feet by whatever thickness in milimeters. We're supposedly on the metric system.
Two bad your cartridge unit isn't for a double in a steel frame as I'd be very interested in buying it if it was.
A nice thing about cartridge bottom brackets is how easy they are to install compared to cup and cone units.
Cheers
Two bad your cartridge unit isn't for a double in a steel frame as I'd be very interested in buying it if it was.
A nice thing about cartridge bottom brackets is how easy they are to install compared to cup and cone units.
Cheers
11-09-21, 04:30 PM
#31
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Thank goodness you found the Italian marking first!
When you do get the right unit, 3alarmer 's observation about the BB shell threading may still apply. When installing a Velo-Orange cartridge unit in my '87 Bianchi, I had to file down some of the leading threads on the drive-side cup before it would go in all the way!
I don't think it's worth pulling the cranks and the bottom bracket to find out what kind it is or see if it has a washer or if that's just the way the drive side of the bottom bracket looks, but I figured it didn't hurt to ask anyway.
11-09-21, 06:10 PM
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I've never heard of anyone grinding off any threads. I'm sure that spacer is an attempt to make chainline better.
11-09-21, 11:31 PM
#33
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11-10-21, 12:09 AM
#34
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https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Scroll down just a bit to the spindles.
Note the Italian (5N) center spacing is 3mm more than British.
IF one had an Italian spindle and wanted to use it in a British BB shell, you wouldn't have enough purchase on the adjustable cup. This would gain the thickness of the spacer.
I have no clue if that's even close, but it's an answer.
Scroll down just a bit to the spindles.
Note the Italian (5N) center spacing is 3mm more than British.
IF one had an Italian spindle and wanted to use it in a British BB shell, you wouldn't have enough purchase on the adjustable cup. This would gain the thickness of the spacer.
I have no clue if that's even close, but it's an answer.
11-10-21, 06:48 AM
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This is a photo of the drive side of my bike. I had this bottom bracket installed several years ago before I knew how to do anything so I have no idea what kind it is or if this is what happened, but it looks like there might be a washer spacer between the bottom bracket and the bottom bracket shell.
I wonder if this would be an option rather than grinding off more threads? It seems like you're going to engage the same amount of threads either way. Whether you don't get it all the way in and miss some of the inner threads or grind off the first few outer threads so that it can go all the way in I can't imagine there would be much of a difference (unless it's not getting far enough in for the other side to tighten). Just a thought.
I don't think it's worth pulling the cranks and the bottom bracket to find out what kind it is or see if it has a washer or if that's just the way the drive side of the bottom bracket looks, but I figured it didn't hurt to ask anyway.
11-10-21, 09:29 AM
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I wonder if that's what happened here. This is a photo of the drive side of my bike. I had this bottom bracket installed several years ago before I knew how to do anything so I have no idea what kind it is or if this is what happened, but it looks like there might be a washer spacer between the bottom bracket and the bottom bracket shell. I wonder if this would be an option rather than grinding off more threads? It seems like you're going to engage the same amount of threads either way. Whether you don't get it all the way in and miss some of the inner threads or grind off the first few outer threads so that it can go all the way in I can't imagine there would be much of a difference (unless it's not getting far enough in for the other side to tighten). Just a thought. Wondering if anybody might weigh in on it.
11-10-21, 09:30 AM
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11-10-21, 11:08 AM
#38
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Here we go. Steel loose-ball fixed up on the left, Shimano UN-55 on the right, my Velo-Orange BB in the middle. You can see that the VO's cup is a few millimeters longer than the other ones. Even though the threading is tapered to aid in getting it started, it still met obstacles before it could go in all the way.
I wish I had taken this picture at the beginning of the process, that would have shown the difference more clearly. I had already started to file down the threads on the leading end by this point.
I wish I had taken this picture at the beginning of the process, that would have shown the difference more clearly. I had already started to file down the threads on the leading end by this point.
11-10-21, 06:42 PM
#39
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Here we go. Steel loose-ball fixed up on the left, Shimano UN-55 on the right, my Velo-Orange BB in the middle. You can see that the VO's cup is a few millimeters longer than the other ones. Even though the threading is tapered to aid in getting it started, it still met obstacles before it could go in all the way.
I wish I had taken this picture at the beginning of the process, that would have shown the difference more clearly. I had already started to file down the threads on the leading end by this point.
I wish I had taken this picture at the beginning of the process, that would have shown the difference more clearly. I had already started to file down the threads on the leading end by this point.
11-10-21, 08:56 PM
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Here we go. Steel loose-ball fixed up on the left, Shimano UN-55 on the right, my Velo-Orange BB in the middle. You can see that the VO's cup is a few millimeters longer than the other ones. Even though the threading is tapered to aid in getting it started, it still met obstacles before it could go in all the way.
Still, the real fix for this is to have the threads in the shell chased with a set of piloted taps. These are expensive, so like a bike shop job if this is to be a "one-off" task.
