toofastgt

You may as well use kerosene or diesel fuel since WD-40 is 80% kerosene!! Here's another vote for PB
blaster to break through the rust, then a wire brush to get the scale off, then hose it off to kind of get
the scale from out between the links, then a good coating of spray White lithium grease but you need to
leave the can in the sun as well as the chain that way the WLG is thinner from the heat and the chain is
expanded to ensure there is just a tad bit more space for the lube to get in. Even spray silicone lube is
a better chain lube and it will not leave any residue since it stays pretty clean. (wallyworld has silicone for
a $1.59 a can) silicone spray also makes a great cable lube since it is so thin and slick!! If used for a chain
and cable lube it does have to be reapplied more often.

TalkingHead

been using this stuff for a while now, works great. My shifts are almost flawless, except going out of 5-6..needs some adjustment, but otherwise this stuff works good, last long while also.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Multi-U...4631905&sr=1-1

a can or two should last at least 8 months

jpmartineau

True, sorry about that.

freako

And that's why the question wasn't answered! Rusty chains are completely unreliable and for less then 5 gallons of gas you can buy a new chain. Geez that last statement sounded weird.

DannoXYZ 

What kind of bikes are these? From the description of "Eric", these bikes can't be worth more than $20 each anyway. So it wouldn't make sense to spend more than the value of a bike on a new chain. Motor oil would work better than WD40 and cheaper too.

kellyjdrummer

Logic is just plain..........sexy.

shecky

WD40 carries all kinds of lore. The truth is that it's mostly solvent and mineral oil. As such, it's a perfectly serviceable chain lube. It's all I've used on my fixie for years now, with no ill effects. For Eric, it's probably all he'll ever need.

Personally, a chain that's rusty is ripe for replacement, as rust may indicate a significant structural weakening that's difficult even with extremely close inspection.

I doubt Eric is so finicky, however.

Oldpeddaller

I have salvaged old rusty chains - after replacing them with new ones. Don't use them on bikes though, I wouldn't fancy standing on the pedals when a sideplate snapped! We use them to set up moving targets at my rifle club - greased, because they are left outdoors very light load and slow speed electric motor. Maybe there is a case for coating a bike chain with grease if said bike is to be stored outside? OK it'll pick up crud and make your socks dirty but it might protect from the weather - any views on that?

jgedwa

Chain lubing is the single most over-thought aspect of bike maintenance. A chain is a temporary item. In the interest of saving money it makes a lot of sense to clean it regularly and then lube it well after. But since the chain will not be on the bike for 20 years (that is, if the bike is used regularly), there is a steep diminishing return on maintaining them impecably.

I fix and flip a lot of bikes, and I would have to vote for ANY lubrication at all on most bikes. WD-40 is not ideal (since it is really a solvent, and not a straight-forward lubricant), but better than nothing.

In fact, I have a pet theory that if one was somewhat dilligent about using WD-40 and recoated it frequently, it would be a pretty good chain lube. It is light so it will not collect too much gunk, and applying it tends to clean the chain somewhat. My biggest caveat would be that since it is a solvent, make sure to keep it the heck away from any bearings. Spray it around your hubs or your BB, and you could have some real trouble.

jim

I_bRAD

So you're either riding 10000 miles a month, or you are using WAY too much lube.

fdavis99

No, it's light mineral oil and a bunch of very light petroleum-based compounds. Wired had it analyzed: What's Inside WD-40? Superlube's Secret Sauce The light compounds flow very easily and penetrate everywhere, taking the dissolved mineral oil with them. Two of the light compounds are water-repellent, which displace water (WD = Water Displacer). They also evaporate quickly, leaving behind the light mineral oil. That is a very light lubricant, so it doesn't last very long on a bike chain, but people who spray their chain with WD-40 frequently have great experiences. If you want it to be well-lubricated for longer, follow up with a proper lubricant.

BTW, motor oil is not a great idea for exposed mechanical parts because it has detergents designed to clean combustion byproducts, and is designed to lubricate under constant high pressure.

Chain Maintenance is a very clear, detailed discussion about bike chains.

AnkleWork

After seven years the formula could have changed.

CliffordK

I've broken loose rusty chains with WD-40, and a bit of wiggling. It works. I'm not sure about long-term lube, but the chains I did that on probably were left out in the rain immediately afterwards, so they would need another dose of WD40 (or whatever your favorite super light penetrating lube is).

My guess is Zero stretch.
The bike with the rusty chain probably gets ridden 10 miles a year.
It should be good for 100 years before it would get significant chain stretch.

hueyhoolihan

clever idea to invent Eric, your misguided mystery friend. we can abuse him or her to our heart's content with a clear conscience.

zonatandem

WD40 now has a bike lube specific spray.

IcySmooth52

I thought I'd add my $0.02

As stated by many, WD-40 is a penetrating oil for displacing water. I keep a bottle of it in my tool kit at events because it has many possible uses, but it's NOT IDEAL for any but water displacement. And I NEVER use it as chain lube because it won't stay or prevent wear. Even the company WD-40 has different products for what's being talked about here:

Penetrating to loosen upWD-40's version of PB Blaster.
Removing rustWhat Eric should use on the chain first.
Chain lube What Eric should use after.

But my vote is still with get a new chain. (And keep it lubed)

One thing people don't realize is you should put lube on a brand new chain once installed because that light sticky chemical on the chain isn't a lube, but a rust inhibitor that'll soon leave after opening the package.

Willbird

I look at WD40 as a very very inexpensive petro based flushing agent, if you buy it on sale there is not much cheaper in a spray can that will still leave a petro film.

It is probably not an ideal lubricant for anything really, but if you flush out any nasty stuff, and blow it as dry as you can with an air gun on your air compressor hose, then you can add the proper lubricant.

I have seen advocates here however for nothing but WD40 as chain lube, they apply it before every ride, wipe off all they can, and go ride, and they seem happy :-).

That stuff is a very good lube actually, lots and lots of folks would love to be able to buy it, but it is applied in a hot bath process that joe average may not be able to duplicate in the garage of his condo.

From Sheldon Brown.....

Bill

DMF 

My guess is that you'd be wrong. Chains - especially un-lubed chains - rust very quickly. Someone puts a bike up for the winter by leaning it against the house and it could easily be rusted solid by spring. And rust is a great abrasive. One year of even light riding on a chain in such a condition will ruin the chain, i.e. push the wear past spec.

Now why have we resurrected a relatively worthless, 7 year old, thread ??

migrantwing

It may only be surface rust. I cleaned a pretty badly rusted chain down for a customer the other day with WD40 and GT85. It all depends on how bad the chain is rusted. The one I cleaned and salvaged was pretty bad.

I use an ultrasonic cleaner for rusted/gunked up stuff, if it's really bad. Worse than that, then it's a new chain.

rydabent

IMO a rusty chain is a dead chain. No matter how much you "clean" it, with what ever, there will still be rust present. Rust is a great cutting compound that will wear out the chain and worse yet chain rings and cassette. Buy a new chain.

10 Wheels

Clean it up and ride.

Willbird

The MSDS is online, and the UK MSDS or whatever they call it is often more illuminating than the USA ones, the UK ones have to list all the ingredients.

Bill

IcySmooth52

This is quite conflicting on what I've heard from SRAM, KHC & Shimano reps.

Willbird

Well dear old departed Sheldon no doubt had chains older than those 3 guys and gals (maybe) together had been alive ;-).

So to be clear, they told you that leaving that stuff on there would cause an issue ??

I have a KMC 8 speed chain on my Trek 7200 that I bought, put on with new cassette, and rode for 1500 miles before I thought to do a THING to it, and that thing was to measure over 10 links with a dial caliper, it is near the end of it's life. It was stored inside that whole time, ridden nearly every day, never had a drop of any chain lube applied. I did wash it out in mineral spirits and lube it with ATF. I put another 800 miles or so on that bike this winter...cleaned that chain and relubed it with ATF a few times, it has Mao Mart White Lightning Epic Ride on it right now, but still going strong.

Bill

IcySmooth52

It could be that what Sheldon spoke of isn't the industry practice after 7 years of his death. The issue with relying on this factory wax is the same as WD-40 for a lube. It won't serve the purpose as a chain lube.

BTW, I hope you apply Epic Ride often enough. It doesn't stick around as long as many lubes. (I use it and have seen statistics. Longevity is only downfall)