Help (advice) needed with French freewheel
11-12-22, 05:34 PM
#1
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Help (advice) needed with French freewheel
I am trying to get an 8 speed Sachs Maillard freewheel off. I am thinking the smallest cog(s) act as a lock ring? I remember in the bike shop, we always had 2 chain whips, but I have gotten by with one for the last 30 some years. Also the cogs have an interesting tooth profile. (This is mated to 1990 era Huret-Sachs Rival 8 speed indexed shifters and derailleurs). See pics.
Cool vee shaped tooth profile , on the outer edge
Not what I am used to freewheel wise!
Cool vee shaped tooth profile , on the outer edge
Not what I am used to freewheel wise!
11-12-22, 05:53 PM
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If it's a freewheel you need a tool that fits over the axle and engages what appear to be splines within.
There's this new fad called cassettes and they are different, I don't know, maybe they come off with whips.
There's this new fad called cassettes and they are different, I don't know, maybe they come off with whips.
11-12-22, 06:20 PM
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I’m a fan of the 6 and 7 speed freewheels and its fun to pair them with a Sachs/SRAM chain. Maybe that tooth top treatment helps them run quieter? That could be a UG cassette.
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11-12-22, 06:25 PM
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All I know about them is they usually don’t put up much of a fight when you want to remove them.
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11-12-22, 06:31 PM
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It's definitely a freewheel- you can see the removal splines behind the outer locknut. If that's a later-model freewheel, it takes the same tool as Shimano freewheels.
If you can't get enough engagement on the freewheel splines, remove the outer locknut and spacer.
If you can't get enough engagement on the freewheel splines, remove the outer locknut and spacer.
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11-12-22, 06:36 PM
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I see notches in there. Here's the Velobase page that might help.
https://velobase.com/ListComponents....3-3cad77fcf335
https://velobase.com/ListComponents....3-3cad77fcf335
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11-12-22, 06:52 PM
#7
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I see notches in there. Here's the Velobase page that might help.
https://velobase.com/ListComponents....3-3cad77fcf335
https://velobase.com/ListComponents....3-3cad77fcf335
you can see the funky teeth very clearly there.
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11-12-22, 07:36 PM
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The worst ones to take out are the Reginas. I had a few that were so tight on the hubs that I felt like I busted my ribs when I took them off. A couple of my chain whips actually broke on me when removing Regina FWs.
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11-13-22, 03:55 AM
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Yes, the Maillard/Sachs FWs definely usually comes off the hubs quite easily.
The worst ones to take out are the Reginas. I had a few that were so tight on the hubs that I felt like I busted my ribs when I took them off. A couple of my chain whips actually broke on me when removing Regina FWs.
The worst ones to take out are the Reginas. I had a few that were so tight on the hubs that I felt like I busted my ribs when I took them off. A couple of my chain whips actually broke on me when removing Regina FWs.
11-13-22, 04:16 AM
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You are right. This is the one that it is...Sachs-Maillard Aris
you can see the funky teeth very clearly there.
you can see the funky teeth very clearly there.
11-13-22, 07:39 AM
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11-13-22, 08:13 AM
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You are right about the A.R.I.S. needing the FR-1. It had been so long since I have removed my 6-speed A.R.I.S, that I thought it required the standard Maillard tool, FR-4.
Last edited by 1989Pre; 11-15-22 at 03:45 AM.
11-13-22, 08:59 AM
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Yes, the Maillard/Sachs FWs definely usually comes off the hubs quite easily.
The worst ones to take out are the Reginas. I had a few that were so tight on the hubs that I felt like I busted my ribs when I took them off. A couple of my chain whips actually broke on me when removing Regina FWs.
The worst ones to take out are the Reginas. I had a few that were so tight on the hubs that I felt like I busted my ribs when I took them off. A couple of my chain whips actually broke on me when removing Regina FWs.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
11-13-22, 09:18 AM
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I've used (and serviced many) Sachs Aris freewheels, and a modern Shimano tool has always worked for me.
While the Sachs Aris is one of my favorite freewheels to run on a wheel spaced for 126mm rear dropouts, the eight-speed models are intended for 130mm spacing, which does run the risk the hub axle bending since the the bearing cone on the drive side is far inside from the locknut.
The other concern with this model has to do with the type of grease and the method used by Sachs to apply the grease. The bearings are held in red plastic cages which double as seals to keep contaminates from penetrating the interior.
Since no grease is needed to keep the bearings in place during assembly, an injector hole was added to the outer body. Sachs then flooded the interior with grease through this hole. Thus, the bearings and the pawls were embedded in grease. Fast forward three decades and in most cases the original Sachs grease has spoiled into a sticky peanut butter mess.
The Drip and Dribble method of freewheel service will never work on an Aris. It needs to be disassembled, cleaned and new grease added to the races only. I use a few drops of quality machine oil on the pawl pivots.
While the Sachs Aris is one of my favorite freewheels to run on a wheel spaced for 126mm rear dropouts, the eight-speed models are intended for 130mm spacing, which does run the risk the hub axle bending since the the bearing cone on the drive side is far inside from the locknut.
The other concern with this model has to do with the type of grease and the method used by Sachs to apply the grease. The bearings are held in red plastic cages which double as seals to keep contaminates from penetrating the interior.
Since no grease is needed to keep the bearings in place during assembly, an injector hole was added to the outer body. Sachs then flooded the interior with grease through this hole. Thus, the bearings and the pawls were embedded in grease. Fast forward three decades and in most cases the original Sachs grease has spoiled into a sticky peanut butter mess.
The Drip and Dribble method of freewheel service will never work on an Aris. It needs to be disassembled, cleaned and new grease added to the races only. I use a few drops of quality machine oil on the pawl pivots.
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11-14-22, 05:19 AM
#15
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I've used (and serviced many) Sachs Aris freewheels, and a modern Shimano tool has always worked for me.
While the Sachs Aris is one of my favorite freewheels to run on a wheel spaced for 126mm rear dropouts, the eight-speed models are intended for 130mm spacing, which does run the risk the hub axle bending since the the bearing cone on the drive side is far inside from the locknut.
The other concern with this model has to do with the type of grease and the method used by Sachs to apply the grease. The bearings are held in red plastic cages which double as seals to keep contaminates from penetrating the interior.
Since no grease is needed to keep the bearings in place during assembly, an injector hole was added to the outer body. Sachs then flooded the interior with grease through this hole. Thus, the bearings and the pawls were embedded in grease. Fast forward three decades and in most cases the original Sachs grease has spoiled into a sticky peanut butter mess.
The Drip and Dribble method of freewheel service will never work on an Aris. It needs to be disassembled, cleaned and new grease added to the races only. I use a few drops of quality machine oil on the pawl pivots.
While the Sachs Aris is one of my favorite freewheels to run on a wheel spaced for 126mm rear dropouts, the eight-speed models are intended for 130mm spacing, which does run the risk the hub axle bending since the the bearing cone on the drive side is far inside from the locknut.
The other concern with this model has to do with the type of grease and the method used by Sachs to apply the grease. The bearings are held in red plastic cages which double as seals to keep contaminates from penetrating the interior.
Since no grease is needed to keep the bearings in place during assembly, an injector hole was added to the outer body. Sachs then flooded the interior with grease through this hole. Thus, the bearings and the pawls were embedded in grease. Fast forward three decades and in most cases the original Sachs grease has spoiled into a sticky peanut butter mess.
The Drip and Dribble method of freewheel service will never work on an Aris. It needs to be disassembled, cleaned and new grease added to the races only. I use a few drops of quality machine oil on the pawl pivots.
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06-19-23, 07:14 PM
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I've used (and serviced many) Sachs Aris freewheels, and a modern Shimano tool has always worked for me.
While the Sachs Aris is one of my favorite freewheels to run on a wheel spaced for 126mm rear dropouts, the eight-speed models are intended for 130mm spacing, which does run the risk the hub axle bending since the the bearing cone on the drive side is far inside from the locknut.
The other concern with this model has to do with the type of grease and the method used by Sachs to apply the grease. The bearings are held in red plastic cages which double as seals to keep contaminates from penetrating the interior.
Since no grease is needed to keep the bearings in place during assembly, an injector hole was added to the outer body. Sachs then flooded the interior with grease through this hole. Thus, the bearings and the pawls were embedded in grease. Fast forward three decades and in most cases the original Sachs grease has spoiled into a sticky peanut butter mess.
snip . . .
The Drip and Dribble method of freewheel service will never work on an Aris. It needs to be disassembled, cleaned and new grease added to the races only. I use a few drops of quality machine oil on the pawl pivots.
While the Sachs Aris is one of my favorite freewheels to run on a wheel spaced for 126mm rear dropouts, the eight-speed models are intended for 130mm spacing, which does run the risk the hub axle bending since the the bearing cone on the drive side is far inside from the locknut.
The other concern with this model has to do with the type of grease and the method used by Sachs to apply the grease. The bearings are held in red plastic cages which double as seals to keep contaminates from penetrating the interior.
Since no grease is needed to keep the bearings in place during assembly, an injector hole was added to the outer body. Sachs then flooded the interior with grease through this hole. Thus, the bearings and the pawls were embedded in grease. Fast forward three decades and in most cases the original Sachs grease has spoiled into a sticky peanut butter mess.
snip . . .
The Drip and Dribble method of freewheel service will never work on an Aris. It needs to be disassembled, cleaned and new grease added to the races only. I use a few drops of quality machine oil on the pawl pivots.
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