To paint or not to paint?
06-09-21, 09:39 AM
#1
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
To paint or not to paint?
I have gotten everything off of the frame. The seat post came out smooth. It looks like the previous owner applied some anti-seize compound (though I am wondering why he didn't do that with the !@#$%^& fork.) I am thinking about taking it down to bare metal and re-painting it. I'll be doing it myself. It looks much better now that its been cleaned up. Thoughts, opinions, criticism.
PS: I know I am becoming the king of junk (some think they're junk, but I disagree.)
PS: I know I am becoming the king of junk (some think they're junk, but I disagree.)
06-09-21, 01:02 PM
#2
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
I like the idea of a repaint, and I’m thinking about doing it to one of my frames.The results I’ve seen from this stuff have been great: https://spraybike.us/
Likes For aclinjury:
06-09-21, 01:15 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 727
Bikes: Current: 2016 Bianchi Volpe; 1973 Peugeot UO-8. Past: 1974 Fuji S-10-S with custom black Imron paint by Stinsman Racing of PA.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 204 Times
in
142 Posts
I am assuming it is a DIY paintjob. Aluminum can sometimes be difficult to paint if you take it to bare metal. You will need a good aluminum specific primer. I would be inclined to scuff the existing paint and feather and chips and paint over the existing paint. Try a small out of the way spot first to ensure the new paint does not react negatively with the old paint.
Actually it does not look that bad as is, but I can see your desire to paint as I hate labels like that 6061 Aluminum labels on the stays
Actually it does not look that bad as is, but I can see your desire to paint as I hate labels like that 6061 Aluminum labels on the stays
06-09-21, 01:49 PM
#5
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 451
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 236 Post(s)
Liked 171 Times
in
104 Posts
I have gotten everything off of the frame. The seat post came out smooth. It looks like the previous owner applied some anti-seize compound (though I am wondering why he didn't do that with the !@#$%^& fork.) I am thinking about taking it down to bare metal and re-painting it. I'll be doing it myself. It looks much better now that its been cleaned up. Thoughts, opinions, criticism.
PS: I know I am becoming the king of junk (some think they're junk, but I disagree.)
PS: I know I am becoming the king of junk (some think they're junk, but I disagree.)
). It does take practice. You'll probably wreck the first frame (or two) you try. Great thing is you can always start over My advice is to use a system all from the same vendor - so, same vendor for prime/paint/clear. Personally I only use duplicolor which is an acrylic laquer. Nothing beats a properly done laquer finish IMO.My process is:
1) take frame for sandblasting
2) thin coat of etching primer on bare metal. let 'flash off' for an hour or so (depending on conditions).
3) apply couple coats of sandable primer. depending on how well the primer went on ill let it flash off for a couple hours then start painting. if there are imperfections in the primer I'll let it dry 24 hours then do a light wet sand.
4) apply laquer. this takes practice. i'll typically apply 9-10 coats building up progressively thicker. sometimes more.
5) let laquer fully cure for ~10 days.
6) wet sand/polish.
7) use the best clear coat you're comfortable using. really like Duplicolor 1K which is urethane based. If you know what you're doing the best clear is a 2K but highly toxic.
8) after clear has fully cured wet sand/polish (if necessary often is not).
9) enjoy!
Tip: ALWAYS follow directions from manufacturer on how/when to use their system.
Takes practice, time and patience but it's something I really enjoy. Once you get good at it you can achieve pro level finishes. Good luck!
NOTE - I only paint steel frames. Process, as mentioned above, has some caveats for aluminum.
Double Note - get a proper respirator to save lungs.
Last edited by tendency; 06-09-21 at 02:05 PM.
Likes For tendency:
Likes For lexus1995:
06-09-21, 05:39 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,214
Mentioned: 211 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18397 Post(s)
Liked 15,492 Times
in
7,316 Posts
White bikes are the slowest.
06-09-21, 05:56 PM
#8
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
06-09-21, 05:57 PM
#9
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
I am assuming it is a DIY paintjob. Aluminum can sometimes be difficult to paint if you take it to bare metal. You will need a good aluminum specific primer. I would be inclined to scuff the existing paint and feather and chips and paint over the existing paint. Try a small out of the way spot first to ensure the new paint does not react negatively with the old paint.
Actually it does not look that bad as is, but I can see your desire to paint as I hate labels like that 6061 Aluminum labels on the stays
Actually it does not look that bad as is, but I can see your desire to paint as I hate labels like that 6061 Aluminum labels on the stays
06-09-21, 05:59 PM
#10
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
06-09-21, 06:09 PM
#11
Mother Nature's Son
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
Posts: 3,107
Bikes: 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 852 Post(s)
Liked 1,433 Times
in
815 Posts
Yesterday I finished the last clear coat of an '89 Fuji Ace that I stripped to bare metal and rattle can spray painted it, probably the only one I will do. It is certainly nowhere near being a really well done paint job, but it looks pretty good. It is a lot of work and a lot of time. Not hard work per se, but tedious and messy. I did not want a high gloss, flashy finish, but more of a satin with just a bit of sheen. I am going to let it set for 10 to 14 days before I start doing any re-building on it. Also, I am still toying with the idea of some kind of decals, not Fuji Ace, but something like chevrons, shapes characters, etc.
I am pretty sure if I was to do another bike, I would get it powder coated. I have had that done to two framesets, and, IMO, it is a cost effective, work saving, durable option with thousands of color tones to choose from.
I need to do some light, wet sanding on it, and then polish it up.
I am pretty sure if I was to do another bike, I would get it powder coated. I have had that done to two framesets, and, IMO, it is a cost effective, work saving, durable option with thousands of color tones to choose from.
I need to do some light, wet sanding on it, and then polish it up.
06-09-21, 07:51 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,214
Mentioned: 211 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18397 Post(s)
Liked 15,492 Times
in
7,316 Posts
06-09-21, 07:54 PM
#13
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,465
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4332 Post(s)
Liked 3,956 Times
in
2,644 Posts
The paint alone would be worth more than the frame. I personally wouldn't waste the time. Unless the paint is exceptional damaged I wouldn't bother and even then I wouldn't bother unless you have free paint and free time.
Also NEVER CLAMP A BIKE BY THE TUBES!!!!!!! Seatposts are designed to be clamped the tubes on a frame are not.
Also NEVER CLAMP A BIKE BY THE TUBES!!!!!!! Seatposts are designed to be clamped the tubes on a frame are not.
Likes For veganbikes:
06-09-21, 08:05 PM
#14
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
06-09-21, 08:07 PM
#15
Grouchy Old man
Thread Starter
Yesterday I finished the last clear coat of an '89 Fuji Ace that I stripped to bare metal and rattle can spray painted it, probably the only one I will do. It is certainly nowhere near being a really well done paint job, but it looks pretty good. It is a lot of work and a lot of time. Not hard work per se, but tedious and messy. I did not want a high gloss, flashy finish, but more of a satin with just a bit of sheen. I am going to let it set for 10 to 14 days before I start doing any re-building on it. Also, I am still toying with the idea of some kind of decals, not Fuji Ace, but something like chevrons, shapes characters, etc.
I am pretty sure if I was to do another bike, I would get it powder coated. I have had that done to two framesets, and, IMO, it is a cost effective, work saving, durable option with thousands of color tones to choose from.
I need to do some light, wet sanding on it, and then polish it up.
I am pretty sure if I was to do another bike, I would get it powder coated. I have had that done to two framesets, and, IMO, it is a cost effective, work saving, durable option with thousands of color tones to choose from.
I need to do some light, wet sanding on it, and then polish it up.
06-09-21, 08:26 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,464
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 955 Post(s)
Liked 1,619 Times
in
1,039 Posts
OP - Paint or not???
Who's got time to paint a bike during ridding weather? But, if its all apart ya may as well, cause if ya don't ya probably wont till its all apart again...
Who's got time to paint a bike during ridding weather? But, if its all apart ya may as well, cause if ya don't ya probably wont till its all apart again...
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
06-10-21, 02:00 AM
#17
Senior Member
The frame looks pretty nice as is, IMO
06-10-21, 02:48 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times
in
395 Posts
If you think a 6061 aluminum race frame is junk then you're definitely the new generation. And that Bikes Direct Windsor is probably a rebadged Specialized or something. Not cool to bash a man's bike. Unless it's a fixed gear with no brakes, green chain and pink rims.
I'd remove the aftermarket decals and go over the paint with some polishing compound. That will get rid of most of the little imperfections and black marks and bring the white back to life. Then touch up paint where needed and wax it. It's not in such bad condition where it needs to be painted, especially a cheap home paint job which will most likely peel pretty quickly.
I'd remove the aftermarket decals and go over the paint with some polishing compound. That will get rid of most of the little imperfections and black marks and bring the white back to life. Then touch up paint where needed and wax it. It's not in such bad condition where it needs to be painted, especially a cheap home paint job which will most likely peel pretty quickly.
Likes For Lazyass:
06-10-21, 04:34 AM
#19
Tragically Ignorant
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: New England
Posts: 15,613
Bikes: Serotta Atlanta; 1994 Specialized Allez Pro; Giant OCR A1; SOMA Double Cross Disc; 2022 Allez Elite mit der SRAM
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8186 Post(s)
Liked 9,095 Times
in
5,053 Posts
06-10-21, 04:38 AM
#20
Tragically Ignorant
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: New England
Posts: 15,613
Bikes: Serotta Atlanta; 1994 Specialized Allez Pro; Giant OCR A1; SOMA Double Cross Disc; 2022 Allez Elite mit der SRAM
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8186 Post(s)
Liked 9,095 Times
in
5,053 Posts
If you think a 6061 aluminum race frame is junk then you're definitely the new generation. And that Bikes Direct Windsor is probably a rebadged Specialized or something. Not cool to bash a man's bike. Unless it's a fixed gear with no brakes, green chain and pink rims.
I'd remove the aftermarket decals and go over the paint with some polishing compound. That will get rid of most of the little imperfections and black marks and bring the white back to life. Then touch up paint where needed and wax it. It's not in such bad condition where it needs to be painted, especially a cheap home paint job which will most likely peel pretty quickly.
I'd remove the aftermarket decals and go over the paint with some polishing compound. That will get rid of most of the little imperfections and black marks and bring the white back to life. Then touch up paint where needed and wax it. It's not in such bad condition where it needs to be painted, especially a cheap home paint job which will most likely peel pretty quickly.
I'd refrain from trash talking the green chain and pink rims, but no brakes is always fair game.
06-10-21, 05:10 AM
#21
Tragically Ignorant
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: New England
Posts: 15,613
Bikes: Serotta Atlanta; 1994 Specialized Allez Pro; Giant OCR A1; SOMA Double Cross Disc; 2022 Allez Elite mit der SRAM
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8186 Post(s)
Liked 9,095 Times
in
5,053 Posts
06-10-21, 05:24 AM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,214
Mentioned: 211 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18397 Post(s)
Liked 15,492 Times
in
7,316 Posts
06-10-21, 05:51 AM
#23
Mother Nature's Son
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
Posts: 3,107
Bikes: 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 852 Post(s)
Liked 1,433 Times
in
815 Posts
I am a long way from being an truly experienced painter. However, in my limited experience, other than what you prime with, and how you prime, the rest of the process is the same.
Likes For delbiker1:
06-10-21, 06:23 AM
#24
Zip tie Karen
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,004
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times
in
806 Posts
That Windsor frame looks fine to me as is. I'd simply use rubbing compound to clean up the scuffs and a bit of white touch up and wax and you're done.
I have painted two frames in the last couple of years. Each time it was a substantial amount of work and the results were only barely up to my own rather low standards. From 10 feet away, each looks terrific. From one foot, there are flaws due to my not knowing jack squat about applying paint. I'm good at a few things, but painting definitely isn't one of them.
I have painted two frames in the last couple of years. Each time it was a substantial amount of work and the results were only barely up to my own rather low standards. From 10 feet away, each looks terrific. From one foot, there are flaws due to my not knowing jack squat about applying paint. I'm good at a few things, but painting definitely isn't one of them.
06-10-21, 08:23 AM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,895
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2599 Post(s)
Liked 1,924 Times
in
1,208 Posts
Likes For pdlamb: