Hmm, still not a fan of the triple crankset.
#1
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Hmm, still not a fan of the triple crankset.
Most of my bikes for the past ten years have been double cranksets, and the others have been single cranksets.
Trying out a triple. Not liking it. Just so bulky and my pants seem more prone to getting caught.
Trying out a triple. Not liking it. Just so bulky and my pants seem more prone to getting caught.
#2
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Get less baggy pants.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
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#3
Over forty victim of Fate
... or use trouser bands. Two of the four road-ridden bikes wear triple cranks - all have 6-speed ultra-spaced freewheels.
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'75 Fuji S-10S bought new, 52k+ miles and still going!
'84 Univega Gran Tourismo
'84 Univega Viva Sport
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'90 Schwinn Woodlands
Unknown brand MTB of questionable lineage aka 'Mutt Trail Bike'
Plus or minus a few others from time-to-time
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Triples are only for the very advanced bicyclist. Beginners should start with a single chainring, then after a few years move up to a double chainring, then after decades of experience move up to a triple chainring. Most professional racers are still in the double chainring stage.
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I don't wear pants when I ride mine, most days I don't get arrested.
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Go back to a single or double if the triple doesn't suit you. I have singles, doubles and triples. I really appreciate the triples when I get into the mountains.
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#11
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#13
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OMG, that's hilarious! Look how much that BB spindle sticks out on the drive side. Is the BB dished? What's the Q-factor, about 3 feet?
He's in the middle chain ring and there's quite a bit of sag in that chain. Methinks those inner chainrings are only operable with one or two of the sprockets on back.
I see Renee Herse all over that thing, explains a lot.
He's in the middle chain ring and there's quite a bit of sag in that chain. Methinks those inner chainrings are only operable with one or two of the sprockets on back.
I see Renee Herse all over that thing, explains a lot.
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#15
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OMG, that's hilarious! Look how much that BB spindle sticks out on the drive side. Is the BB dished? What's the Q-factor, about 3 feet?
He's in the middle chain ring and there's quite a bit of sag in that chain. Methinks those inner chainrings are only operable with one or two of the sprockets on back.
I see Renee Herse all over that thing, explains a lot.
He's in the middle chain ring and there's quite a bit of sag in that chain. Methinks those inner chainrings are only operable with one or two of the sprockets on back.
I see Renee Herse all over that thing, explains a lot.
https://www.renehersecycles.com/comp...ntuple-cranks/
Asymmetric BBs are a thing, by the way. It allows for a reduction in q-factor, and most riders aren't bothered by the asymmetry: the extent to which it affects leg extension and the rider's angle on the saddle is pretty subtle.
Asymmetric spindles were very common in the age when 3-piece cranksets dominated... On my '79 Fuji America, the Sugino Mighty Tour triple crankset is set up with a 142mm q-factor through the use of a spindle which is about 1cm longer on the DS than the NDS, and the bike pedals beautifully.

Last edited by HTupolev; 04-15-20 at 09:04 PM.
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Always a fan of the triple crankset, thank you! The triple is what optimal bicycling is all about (except alternatives to front derailers).
It is true though about the big chainring catching the trouser inseam, about four inches up from the hem. It happens on straight-leg trousers (not just flares). Two solutions to the problem:
1. Use a crankset with a chainwheel guard.
2. Use a band that cinches just above the ankle. I use a webbing band that fastens with velcro. When I'm not on the bicycle, I wrap this band around the stem/handlebar, where it will always be found again.
Unfortunately I have not found aftermarket chainwheel guards. Chainwheel guard is my preferred solution by far. With my bicycle that has a chainwheel guard, I can just stand up, grab the bicycle, get on it and ride! No need for a wardrobe change.
It is true though about the big chainring catching the trouser inseam, about four inches up from the hem. It happens on straight-leg trousers (not just flares). Two solutions to the problem:
1. Use a crankset with a chainwheel guard.
2. Use a band that cinches just above the ankle. I use a webbing band that fastens with velcro. When I'm not on the bicycle, I wrap this band around the stem/handlebar, where it will always be found again.
Unfortunately I have not found aftermarket chainwheel guards. Chainwheel guard is my preferred solution by far. With my bicycle that has a chainwheel guard, I can just stand up, grab the bicycle, get on it and ride! No need for a wardrobe change.
Last edited by Nyah; 04-15-20 at 09:59 PM.
#18
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The image is an april fool's joke posted by Rene Herse themselves a couple years ago. It's not a serious bicycle setup.
https://www.renehersecycles.com/comp...ntuple-cranks/
Asymmetric BBs are a thing, by the way. It allows for a reduction in q-factor, and most riders aren't bothered by the asymmetry: the extent to which it affects leg extension and the rider's angle on the saddle is pretty subtle.
Asymmetric spindles were very common in the age when 3-piece cranksets dominated... On my '79 Fuji America, the Sugino Mighty Tour triple crankset is set up with a 142mm q-factor through the use of a spindle which is about 1cm longer on the DS than the NDS, and the bike pedals beautifully.
https://www.renehersecycles.com/comp...ntuple-cranks/
Asymmetric BBs are a thing, by the way. It allows for a reduction in q-factor, and most riders aren't bothered by the asymmetry: the extent to which it affects leg extension and the rider's angle on the saddle is pretty subtle.
Asymmetric spindles were very common in the age when 3-piece cranksets dominated... On my '79 Fuji America, the Sugino Mighty Tour triple crankset is set up with a 142mm q-factor through the use of a spindle which is about 1cm longer on the DS than the NDS, and the bike pedals beautifully.
I do like those Shimanos as measurement tools. Throw the Shimano BB on, install the crankset, measure how much needs to come off each side then order that Phil.
Ben
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If you are a young stud with bulging muscles, maybe a triple isnt necessary. But when you get a little older and facing a really steep hill that granny that weighs very little will really be welcome.
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When riding a triple, best to wear three pairs of pants for compatibility.
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Triples are only for the very advanced bicyclist. Beginners should start with a single chainring, then after a few years move up to a double chainring, then after decades of experience move up to a triple chainring. Most professional racers are still in the double chainring stage.
I do find that my shirts get caught in the frame a lot more.
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Dorky, yes, but highly effective.
Back in the stone age, I had to wear a white uniform at work and bike commuted wearing it. Never a grease mark on the pants ever. Can't say the same for the socks.
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I'll chime in. My only remaining triple is on my touring bike, and I really appreciate having the granny ring. I removed the triple from my mountain bike.
But for my sporty, recreation, utility and commuting rides, a compact double provides the full range that I need. But I'm only 61, athletic and still slim/fit, mercifully.
But for my sporty, recreation, utility and commuting rides, a compact double provides the full range that I need. But I'm only 61, athletic and still slim/fit, mercifully.