For the love of English 3 speeds...
11-15-21, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
Thieves got into my garage and stole three bikes- my Superb, a 1960s ladie's Sprite and a 1974 ladies Superbe, which had an alloy 1950s AW hub on a CR18 rim with SA wingnuts. Sheesh.
<-------->
The Superbe is a bike I've had for about 15 years. It has alloy CR18 rims with a 1962 (IIRC) SA hub, SA wingnuts on the front, alloy bars, Brooks grips, alloy Nitto 'Dirt Drop' stem, 1960s shifter, alloy seatpost and a 1960s Brooks B72. The saddlebag is a wax and canvas Minnehaha. LED lighting front and rear- the rear is mounted high so it can be seen. Crane bell, a frankenstien front brake made of a combo of Weinmann and Raleigh parts- the brake arms are the alloy bits. Weinmann brake levers too. There is a snowflake style Raleigh crank and Lyotard 460 steel pedals. I have the key for the fork lock.
<-------->
The Superbe is a bike I've had for about 15 years. It has alloy CR18 rims with a 1962 (IIRC) SA hub, SA wingnuts on the front, alloy bars, Brooks grips, alloy Nitto 'Dirt Drop' stem, 1960s shifter, alloy seatpost and a 1960s Brooks B72. The saddlebag is a wax and canvas Minnehaha. LED lighting front and rear- the rear is mounted high so it can be seen. Crane bell, a frankenstien front brake made of a combo of Weinmann and Raleigh parts- the brake arms are the alloy bits. Weinmann brake levers too. There is a snowflake style Raleigh crank and Lyotard 460 steel pedals. I have the key for the fork lock.
11-17-21, 05:29 PM
Senior Member
Originally Posted by thumpism
Three 3-speeds for cheap in MA; a Phillips and two Sportses, one of them a men's 23". "Best offer."
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...89084501666172
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...89084501666172
11-17-21, 07:58 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Originally Posted by 2fat2fly
Looks like that ad was listed 4 years ago, it may be a running ad for a flipper, or they've now been sitting outdoors for 4 more years since those pics were taken.
11-17-21, 08:19 PM
Senior Member
Anyone ever run into 170mm or 175mm length crankarms for cottered cranks? The Williams C34 crank I am using on my '51 Wasp + Sturmey FW has 165mm crankarms and they're bugging my knees. I had this same problem with my Superbe. Bikes with 170mm or 175mm arms don't bother me at all. I'd rather not go out and buy a Stronglight crank or alternative.
PXL_20210624_002831127
PXL_20210624_002831127
11-17-21, 09:07 PM
Youngman Grand
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Maybe, will look.
11-18-21, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ged117
Anyone ever run into 170mm or 175mm length crankarms for cottered cranks? The Williams C34 crank I am using on my '51 Wasp + Sturmey FW has 165mm crankarms and they're bugging my knees. I had this same problem with my Superbe. Bikes with 170mm or 175mm arms don't bother me at all. I'd rather not go out and buy a Stronglight crank or alternative.
PXL_20210624_002831127
PXL_20210624_002831127
11-18-21, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Ged117
Anyone ever run into 170mm or 175mm length crankarms for cottered cranks? The Williams C34 crank I am using on my '51 Wasp + Sturmey FW has 165mm crankarms and they're bugging my knees. I had this same problem with my Superbe. Bikes with 170mm or 175mm arms don't bother me at all. I'd rather not go out and buy a Stronglight crank or alternative.
PXL_20210624_002831127
PXL_20210624_002831127
Edit. The chrome is in better shape than the pics show. Also, the NDS arm looks older, it appears to be nickel plate.
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11-18-21, 04:52 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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11-18-21, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman
So I've got a drive side, 7 inch Williams 5 pin crankarm (~177 mm). I've got a similar NDS arm, 'British Made' also 7 " but it has a 1/2 pedal thread so it would have to be tapped to 9/16". Anyway, yours for shipping plus 2 cans of Old Speckled Hen. Sorry I don't have an extra 5 pin ring.
Edit. The chrome is in better shape than the pics show. Also, the NDS arm looks older, it appears to be nickel plate.
Edit. The chrome is in better shape than the pics show. Also, the NDS arm looks older, it appears to be nickel plate.
11-22-21, 09:02 AM
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Front fender stay?
I hope this doesn’t violate forum rules but I thought I would get more traction in this thread.
Looking for a front fender stay for my single speed Rudge. Measurement is a hair over 14.5 inches.
TIA
Tape measure is deceiving. 14.5” is accurate.
BTW - I’m assumingleft and right are mirror image but I’ve been wrong before…😬
Looking for a front fender stay for my single speed Rudge. Measurement is a hair over 14.5 inches.
TIA
Tape measure is deceiving. 14.5” is accurate.
BTW - I’m assumingleft and right are mirror image but I’ve been wrong before…😬
11-23-21, 04:12 AM
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Found on a Facebook R20 group:
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11-23-21, 08:08 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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^ Zip ties. They really should have used a full loop of chain, and someone will really be pissed about that wasted Rudge crankarm.
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11-23-21, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
Where do they get the clock mechanisms? I could make up a clock for my shop.
11-23-21, 11:55 AM
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I did that once for our bakery...without the clock. The bottom chairing, the chain and cog are all 3/16" gauge.
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11-23-21, 04:20 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
Where do they get the clock mechanisms? I could make up a clock for my shop.
11-24-21, 01:30 AM
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Walmart stores also carry one clock mechanism kit ON THE CRAFTS aisle which is usually next to -or- on the other side of the Sewing aisle(you know, thread, needles, scissors, pins, buttons, fasteners, velcro, etc). You may however wish to study the many different ones available on ebay & amazon etc, because although all of them are pretty reliable and accurate as any AA battery clock mechanism, you might want a particular version BECAUSE of the LOOK/style of the clock HANDS. That right look of the HANDS of the Clock might just make the difference between a good looking Sprocket Clock and a great looking Sprocket Clock. I would imagine that some vendor/suppliers also sell individually the various styles/colors, etc of interchangeable Clock Hands to fit most all of these typical generic AA battery clock mechanisms.
You certainly could even scour GOODWILL for something to use as a Donor clock . As FBOAT & thumpism already mentioned, MICHAELS & HOBBY LOBBY & WOODCRAFT have plenty of these.
You certainly could even scour GOODWILL for something to use as a Donor clock . As FBOAT & thumpism already mentioned, MICHAELS & HOBBY LOBBY & WOODCRAFT have plenty of these.
11-28-21, 06:13 PM
Member
This bike is still available in NYC. I just don't have space for it. Can't go wrong for $20 can you? I may still go up and grab it Tuesday if no one else wants it. Just have to endure the screaming from the trouble and strife.
https://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/b...404623558.html
https://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/b...404623558.html
11-28-21, 08:58 PM
Junior Member
Have now worked on three cottered three-speeds and the Bikesmith cotter pin tool has saved all three. Thanks to all who recommended it and to Mark for providing such a beautifully finished and efficient too. I will no longer pass up a good bike with a cottered crank.
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11-30-21, 03:58 PM
Junior Member
Found a rider for the restored grey '73 Sports.
Before: Thought the bike was brown...Stripped it down completely for the rebuild.
Original paint cleaned up nicely with Maguire's rubbing compound and then some wax. Mostly original parts and it runs great.
Before: Thought the bike was brown...Stripped it down completely for the rebuild.
Original paint cleaned up nicely with Maguire's rubbing compound and then some wax. Mostly original parts and it runs great.
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11-30-21, 04:47 PM
Senior Member
someone will really be pissed about that wasted Rudge crankarm.
Anybody here a fan of WD-40? Gawd that stuff can be awful. I picked up a Superbe last week and tore down the SA 3 spd. I think the last 10 years of it's life WD-40 was used in the lube hole. Once it dries, it is very tough to remove.
12-01-21, 09:30 AM
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WD-40 is not bad for cleaning, displacing water, or preventing light rust in some applications. It can be used as a penetrating oil for loosening rusted parts, but there are better products for that use.
It is not a substantial enough lubricant, though there's a segment of people who insist that it can substitute for oil or grease. This is a corner that should not be cut. A good quality lithium grease and good quality light oil should be on-hand in the garage or shop as lubricants. I think part of it is people who don't know any better just grab a can of WD-40 and use it for everything sometimes.
[Don't get me started on key choppers... bad business]
It is not a substantial enough lubricant, though there's a segment of people who insist that it can substitute for oil or grease. This is a corner that should not be cut. A good quality lithium grease and good quality light oil should be on-hand in the garage or shop as lubricants. I think part of it is people who don't know any better just grab a can of WD-40 and use it for everything sometimes.
[Don't get me started on key choppers... bad business]
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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12-01-21, 11:16 AM
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If I get in a project and the hub isn't shifting right, I'll spray a bunch of WD40 in it and take it for a short ride. Usually its shifting within a couple of blocks. Then I put it on the stand, rotate the oil port down, and spray more in while catching what comes out so it doesn't make a mess. Once its done draining I use automatic transmission fluid as a lubricant and take another ride- about ten miles or so. Then I change out the oil and again and use a bit of light gear lube like I use for the Rohloff.
WD40 is a tool and not a lubricant. I prefer to use Kroil if I have a stuck bolt, seatpost or stem, but it smells terrible so I have to use it outside and make sure everything is cleaned of it before bringing the parts back inside. But for freeing stuff that's stuck its the best I've encountered.
WD40 is a tool and not a lubricant. I prefer to use Kroil if I have a stuck bolt, seatpost or stem, but it smells terrible so I have to use it outside and make sure everything is cleaned of it before bringing the parts back inside. But for freeing stuff that's stuck its the best I've encountered.
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12-01-21, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg R
In typewriter world we call them "key choppers". Any typewriter with the nickel rims on keys have their keys chopped for jewelry.
Last edited by clubman; 12-01-21 at 08:23 PM.
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12-02-21, 10:08 AM
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For sale in/ near Pittsburgh
A ladies, maybe 23"? Brown. And a blue LTD, small. Both look ridable.
Not mine:
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bi...414807367.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bi...406560697.html
Not mine:
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bi...414807367.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bi...406560697.html
