Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 02-27-11, 08:42 AM
  #1376  
4funbikes 
Senior Member
 
4funbikes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southeastern,VA
Posts: 287
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times in 12 Posts
Does anyone know if the numbers stamped on a dynohub are a year indication? I've got a Rudge with a 12 60 stamped on the front hub, 61 stamped on the rear sturmey hub, and b 60 stamped under the Brooks saddle. I can only imagine this means I have an early '60s Rudge?
Also do the serial numbers have any rhyme or reason?
4funbikes is offline  
Old 02-27-11, 09:14 AM
  #1377  
wahoonc
Membership Not Required
 
wahoonc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by 4funbikes View Post
Does anyone know if the numbers stamped on a dynohub are a year indication? I've got a Rudge with a 12 60 stamped on the front hub, 61 stamped on the rear sturmey hub, and b 60 stamped under the Brooks saddle. I can only imagine this means I have an early '60s Rudge?
Also do the serial numbers have any rhyme or reason?
Sounds like you have a 1961 model. Yes the 12 60 is the date, it means that hub was made in December 1960. As far as I know no one has a Rudge serial number database. Pictures would be nice

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Old 02-27-11, 09:24 AM
  #1378  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,750

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 548 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1852 Post(s)
Liked 381 Times in 248 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider View Post
2030 isn't heavier by nature. Chrome-moly is stronger and therefore, they can make it thinner. That is what makes it lighter, i.e. they can use less of it to achieve the same strength.
Right. In fact they can use quite a bit less and still make it a whole lot stronger. I've straightened bent hi-ten steel frames more than once, and it's pretty easy. I tried to straighten a bent 531 by the same method, and it just laughed at me.
rhm is offline  
Old 02-27-11, 10:47 AM
  #1379  
4funbikes 
Senior Member
 
4funbikes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southeastern,VA
Posts: 287
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
Sounds like you have a 1961 model. Yes the 12 60 is the date, it means that hub was made in December 1960. As far as I know no one has a Rudge serial number database. Pictures would be nice

Aaron
Hopefully I will have pics up later today. I just took it apart last week, and plan to have it built back up today.
4funbikes is offline  
Old 02-27-11, 06:54 PM
  #1380  
kingfish254
Senior Member
 
kingfish254's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 999

Bikes: 1989 Dahon Stainless Classic III Folder - 1990 Dahon Mariner Classic III Folder - 2005 Dahon Jetstream P8 Full Suspension Folder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Here is a great notstalgic 1950s dutch video with ton of Dutch 3 speeds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HgLqts3qJs&NR=1
kingfish254 is offline  
Old 02-28-11, 09:00 PM
  #1381  
Schwinnsta
Schwinnasaur
 
Schwinnsta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 1,242
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 292 Post(s)
Liked 51 Times in 40 Posts
With strength steel you sacrifice ductility. Does any one know the yield of Hi-ten, Chromoly, and 531. Here is some stuff posted frome here https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...eeds.../page56

-------------------------------------------------
Steel Alloys

Steel is a combination (an alloy) of iron and other elements designed to improve upon the material properties of pure iron. The alloying elements make up a small fraction of the material by weight (iron is 97% or more of most steel alloys) and don't significantly alter the density (weight) and stiffness of the material, but they can have a significant impact on the strength, weldablity, corrosion resistance and expense of the material.
While there are dozens of steel alloys, only a few are commonly used in bike construction and only two--high tensile and chromoly steel--are used in most mass produced bicycles today.
High-Tensile (Hi-Ten) Steel

High-tensile or carbon steel is a common and inexpensive alloy comprised of iron mixed with 0.2% to 2.0% carbon. (Of note, when iron is mixed with more than 2.1% carbon it is no longer "steel", it goes by the name "cast iron".)
High-tensile steel is an inexpensive but relatively weak alloy. Although it has essentially the same density as other steels, manufacturers working with hi-ten steel are forced to use thick walled tubes to ensure adequate strength, and rarely use butting. For this reason, high-tensile frames are much heavier than their chromoly counterparts.
Today, high-tensile steel frames are primarily used for children's bikes and are sometimes found on inexpensive adult bikes.


4130 ChroMoly (CRMO) Steel

ChroMoly is a steel alloy composed of iron combined with chromium (roughly 1% by weight), molybdenum (roughly 0.2%), carbon (roughly 0.3%), silicon (roughly 0.2%), manganese (roughly 0.04%) and sulphur (roughly 0.04%). 4130 is actually just one of a family of chromoly alloys, but it is the one used for bicycle frames. ChroMoly steel is also used in the construction of airplanes, and is sometimes known as "aircraft tubing".
Chromium is the component that makes stainless steel rust proof, but the chromium level of chromoly steel is not high enough to provide corrosion resistance. (Stainless steel is 10% to 11% chromium.)
Chromoly is frequently used to build mid-to-high-range steel framed bikes. A well made butted chromoly frame is typically only marginally heavier than an aluminum frame, and quite strong and durable.


Reynolds Steel

In 1953 the Reynolds Cycle Company began manufacturing a steel tube composed of proprietary manganese-molybdenum steel alloy they branded Reynolds 531. This alloy was strong and for its time, relatively light. It was once the preferred tubing for steel racing bikes (as well as British aircraft).
Over the years, Reynolds has introduced a number of branded steel tubes, the brand name indicating both the specific alloy and heat treatment but also the wall thickness and butting of the tubes. These include Reyolds 453 (a single-butted tube made of a manganese-titanium alloy), Reynolds 501, 520, 525 and 725 tubes (using 4130 chromoly steel), Reynolds 753 (high-end tubes made of a manganese-molybdenum alloy, essentially a better Reynolds 531), Reynolds 853 (4130 chromoly made stiffer by air hardening) and Reynolds 953 (a lightweight rust-proof maraging stainless steel introduced in 2006).
Reynolds steel is less common in bike frames today than it once was, but some of these alloys are still in use. The Reynolds 520 family is a well made class of 4130 chromoly tubes. You'll pay a bit more for the brand name, but you'll know you're getting a well manufactured tube. Reynolds 853 is a higher quality chromoly, made stiffer than usual by the way it is manufactured. Reynolds 953 is perhaps the best steel available for bikes today: Reynolds 953 frames are stronger than titanium, no heavier than high end aluminum and rust proof.
Schwinnsta is offline  
Old 03-01-11, 06:12 PM
  #1382  
old's'cool
curmudgineer
 
old's'cool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago SW burbs
Posts: 4,411

Bikes: 2 many 2 fit here

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 257 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 60 Posts
This is getting a little off topic, but while most of the information in the excerpted post above is correct to my knowledge, there are some statements that are incorrect or misleading. I'm neither a metallurgical engineer nor a historian of Reynolds 531, so I hope that the better informed will chime in to confirm or refute my take on the following:
  • (Of note, when iron is mixed with more than 2.1% carbon it is no longer "steel", it goes by the name "cast iron".)
I don't dispute that cast iron contains 2.1% or more carbon, however, it doesn't follow that all such alloys are necessarily "cast iron".
  • In 1953 the Reynolds Cycle Company began manufacturing a steel tube composed of proprietary manganese-molybdenum steel alloy they branded Reynolds 531.
I always thought Reynolds 531 was developed before WWII. Maybe just a typo on the year?

Last edited by old's'cool; 03-02-11 at 06:39 PM. Reason: syntax
old's'cool is offline  
Old 03-01-11, 11:35 PM
  #1383  
Sixty Fiver
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Posts: 27,268

Bikes: See my sig...

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked 38 Times in 25 Posts
Wow... just realized that this thread got started on Feb 22 / 10 and don't think it has skipped a beat... much like those wonderful SA AW hubs we are all so fond of (among others).

For the number crunchers that is an average of 4 posts a day for more than a year running and I have to thank everyone for contributing so much love and checking in so often.

I was able to get out and enjoy a beautiful spring like ride last year but it is looking like we're going to be stuck in this deep freeze for at least a few more weeks... at least my winter bike is equipped with a 3 speed even though it isn't English and it has earned it's stripes this winter.

I did spend the last 6 weeks in Portland and got to enjoy another favourite 3 speed...
Sixty Fiver is offline  
Old 03-05-11, 11:59 PM
  #1384  
Onegin
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 42

Bikes: 1971 Raleigh DL-1, 1979 Raleigh Cameo, 1980's Raleigh Rapide Mixte

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
First post on this thread, but I loved reading about all the different bikes here.

Anyway, here's a before and after photo of my '71 Raleigh Tourist. It was a fortuitous Craigslist find last year. The original owner was just a little bit too tall to comfortably ride the bike and this one happens to be a bit unforgiving with adjustments. I was happy to oblige and take it off her hands.

I have a couple of things left to do, namely adding the rear rack and a few other miscellaneous whatisits but it's mostly done. Having spent the better part of winter puttering around indoors, I'm dying for the temperatures to get above zero so I can get out and ride!



Onegin is offline  
Old 03-06-11, 09:06 AM
  #1385  
old's'cool
curmudgineer
 
old's'cool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago SW burbs
Posts: 4,411

Bikes: 2 many 2 fit here

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 257 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 60 Posts
Klasse!
old's'cool is offline  
Old 03-06-11, 09:11 AM
  #1386  
LuckyChow99
Senior Member
 
LuckyChow99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Smyrna, Georgia
Posts: 82
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Beautiful bike. What kind of rack are you going to use?
LuckyChow99 is offline  
Old 03-06-11, 03:19 PM
  #1387  
Onegin
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 42

Bikes: 1971 Raleigh DL-1, 1979 Raleigh Cameo, 1980's Raleigh Rapide Mixte

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
There's actually a gentleman in Virginia that makes custom racks specifically to suit the Raleigh roadster:

https://redbarnbike.blogspot.com

For a long time I considered purchasing a commercially available rack (or trying to retrofit an Electra Amsterdam rack) but, in the end, the prices end up about the same and, in my opinion, this one is much more beautiful.
Onegin is offline  
Old 03-08-11, 09:24 PM
  #1388  
hobbes62
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Beautiful Tourist!, you did a great job on it!
hobbes62 is offline  
Old 03-08-11, 11:23 PM
  #1389  
x136 
phony collective progress
 
x136's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Hoosey
Posts: 2,973

Bikes: https://velospace.org/user/36663

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
I finally wrapped something around this:



And here it is, a 1978 Raleigh Super Course:




It's... immensely fun.
__________________
x136 is offline  
Old 03-08-11, 11:42 PM
  #1390  
Sixty Fiver
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Posts: 27,268

Bikes: See my sig...

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked 38 Times in 25 Posts
x- classic !
Sixty Fiver is offline  
Old 03-09-11, 04:18 AM
  #1391  
sekaijin
Senior Member
 
sekaijin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,142

Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Classic, 1984 Schwinn LeTour, 1998 Gary Fisher Marlin, 1969 Hercules, 1977 Sekai 5000 Superlite, 1993 Koga-Myata TerraLiner, 2013 Trek Farley.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by hobbes62 View Post
Beautiful Tourist!, you did a great job on it!
+1, beautiful!

From the brakes I would have guessed older than '71.
sekaijin is offline  
Old 03-09-11, 04:22 AM
  #1392  
sekaijin
Senior Member
 
sekaijin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,142

Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Classic, 1984 Schwinn LeTour, 1998 Gary Fisher Marlin, 1969 Hercules, 1977 Sekai 5000 Superlite, 1993 Koga-Myata TerraLiner, 2013 Trek Farley.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by x136 View Post
I finally wrapped something around this:

And here it is, a 1978 Raleigh Super Course:

It's... immensely fun.
Very nice! Beautiful bike, fun conversion and the twine on the cable housing is a nice touch.
sekaijin is offline  
Old 03-09-11, 04:49 PM
  #1393  
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, USA
Posts: 40,124

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 491 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6987 Post(s)
Liked 1,705 Times in 1,060 Posts
Well done. What kind of front hub is that?
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 03-09-11, 07:59 PM
  #1394  
x136 
phony collective progress
 
x136's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Hoosey
Posts: 2,973

Bikes: https://velospace.org/user/36663

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by sekaijin View Post
Very nice! Beautiful bike, fun conversion and the twine on the cable housing is a nice touch.
Thanks. I bought the twine, then ended up wrapping the bars in such a way that none was required, so I had to use some somewhere.

Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Well done. What kind of front hub is that?
It's the cheapie Novatech dynamo hub VO has on sale. Nothing hooked up to it yet. I still have to figure that stuff out.
__________________
x136 is offline  
Old 03-09-11, 08:05 PM
  #1395  
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, USA
Posts: 40,124

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 491 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6987 Post(s)
Liked 1,705 Times in 1,060 Posts
Well, I've been riding three speeds a bit lately, after a long time of not riding them. My main bikes are not in running order, so it was time to get at least something working. I was very pleased to acquire a Rudge last year but hadn't done anything with it. It's running great now except for the need for a pedal, which is on its way. It's lovely. I always wanted a Rudge even more than a Raleigh.

The Kool Stop brake pads don't fit on the left side of the front brake, because the caliper is so close to the fork blade. I'll have to get the short kind there. So I have three Kool Stops and one generic pad. The brakes work very well, at least in the dry.

And today I fixed my Raleigh Twenty so that I could take a bike on the train. I don't know which kind of headset it has. I know some (or all?) of them came with a plastic sleeve bearing, but this looks like it might be a traditional ball bearing. I stupidly left the bike outside all winter, and now it's worse than ever. The bike rides almost as if it has a flat front tire. I'll take a look and see. And the brakes suck, big time. I'll get some Kool Stop brake pads and see if they help.

I rode to the train station, carried the bike on the train, and rode in Manhattan. As you can imagine, riding in Manhattan is grueling and very dog-eat-dog. It's a bit harrowing with a sluggish bike, a stiff headset, and gawdawful brakes. But I survived. It was fun anyway.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 03-09-11, 08:54 PM
  #1396  
Schwinnsta
Schwinnasaur
 
Schwinnsta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 1,242
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 292 Post(s)
Liked 51 Times in 40 Posts
On my R20 I had to go a front V-brake to get good stopping ability. Even with Kool Stops the original brakes are just too long. I also went to AL rims and Schwalbe Marathon tires. The original rims were pitted and the tires were shot.

If I were to going to replace the tires again I would not go with the Marathons.
Schwinnsta is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 05:15 AM
  #1397  
wahoonc
Membership Not Required
 
wahoonc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by Schwinnsta View Post
On my R20 I had to go a front V-brake to get good stopping ability. Even with Kool Stops the original brakes are just too long. I also went to AL rims and Schwalbe Marathon tires. The original rims were pitted and the tires were shot.

If I were to going to replace the tires again I would not go with the Marathons.
I use Marathons 1.75" on mine, when they wear out I am going with Marathon Supremes in the 1.5", should be a better fit and ride.

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 09:35 PM
  #1398  
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, USA
Posts: 40,124

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 491 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6987 Post(s)
Liked 1,705 Times in 1,060 Posts
How did you put a v-brake on?
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 03-10-11, 10:11 PM
  #1399  
Sixty Fiver
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Posts: 27,268

Bikes: See my sig...

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked 38 Times in 25 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider View Post
How did you put a v-brake on?
There are a few ways to do this... you can change the fork to one that has the right bosses or modify the existing fork by adding them.

My P20 got cantis to allow for fender clearance and compatibility with road levers... an upgrade like his might run you $80.00 to have the bosses added front and rear.



Built this up for a friend... used linear pull levers to handle the v brake up front and added a drop bolt for the rear caliper although we will probably add some new bosses in the rear for another v brake.

The stopping power is awe inspiring and the suspension fork really makes bad roads a non issue... and it is still an English three speed (with a lot of mods).

Sixty Fiver is offline  
Old 03-11-11, 08:43 AM
  #1400  
ahson
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 654
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Will any of you have a spare Raleigh crank 46t in clean working condition? I need it to complete my Superbe restore project.

That's the type of crankset I am looking for, 46t.

ahson is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.