Can. Someone please explain how a headset gets “shot”?
11-17-22, 08:20 PM
#2
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1. Rust
2. No lube or contaminated lube
3. Hard hits (pot holes and bumps)
4. Ridden while loose
2. No lube or contaminated lube
3. Hard hits (pot holes and bumps)
4. Ridden while loose
11-17-22, 08:33 PM
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5. Overtightening
11-17-22, 08:42 PM
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Age and use. Everything has a life span.
Even me.
Even me.
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11-17-22, 08:47 PM
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Usually the crown race goes first. Sometimes you can bring them back to life by repacking with loose balls. I've picked up new crown races for the Tange Levin and just replaced that too.
11-17-22, 08:47 PM
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And just plain wear. If the balls always get rolled back to the same position, eventually that spot will wear. (A good way to prevent that is to spin the fork 360 degrees every so often. Too bad only kid's bikes and stunt bikes can do that without removing the front brake, the front wheel, fender, rack, handlebars ...)
Better headsets go further. Poor headsets aren't worth paying for if you plan to ride the bike. Not when a Tange headset for less than $40 will go an easy 8000 miles (if the conditions of the posters above are met). Chris Kings go much further. So do the roller Stronglights, (Tanges are easy because of both the price and the fact that Tange makes them to so many different standards and most of their headsets mix and match beautifully.)
Better headsets go further. Poor headsets aren't worth paying for if you plan to ride the bike. Not when a Tange headset for less than $40 will go an easy 8000 miles (if the conditions of the posters above are met). Chris Kings go much further. So do the roller Stronglights, (Tanges are easy because of both the price and the fact that Tange makes them to so many different standards and most of their headsets mix and match beautifully.)
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11-17-22, 09:22 PM
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11-17-22, 10:40 PM
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Too tight, too loose, too old.
11-17-22, 10:54 PM
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11-18-22, 05:55 AM
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You pull out your trusty Red Ryder and shoot it full of BBs. Be careful or you might shoot your eye out. 
11-18-22, 06:12 AM
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The Bianchi that joined the stall has its original head set which is integrated. There are 35 balls top and bottom. Amazingly, it is in great shape despite being 51 years old.
PXL_20221028_121629414 on Flickr
The Frejus has a stock Frejus head set that feels good and looks fine and it is 54 years old.
68FrejusHTUpperLug on Flickr
The 83 Colnago has a Super Record HS with a crown race that is split. It is smooth as silk and is original..'
P9201322 on Flickr
I have been blessed with used bikes whith good HS.
PXL_20221028_121629414 on FlickrThe Frejus has a stock Frejus head set that feels good and looks fine and it is 54 years old.
68FrejusHTUpperLug on FlickrThe 83 Colnago has a Super Record HS with a crown race that is split. It is smooth as silk and is original..'
P9201322 on FlickrI have been blessed with used bikes whith good HS.
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11-18-22, 03:25 PM
#13
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Or maybe both.
11-18-22, 04:06 PM
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Besides all the previously mentioned factors. misaligned cups do a fantastic job of accelerating the wear.
11-18-22, 04:38 PM
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11-19-22, 11:15 AM
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Don't forget the elements, particularly those suspended in rainwater spraying the lower cup during inclement weather.
'Keep it dry, it'll never die' is a good rule of thumb
DD
'Keep it dry, it'll never die' is a good rule of thumb
DD
11-19-22, 11:59 AM
#18
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Volunteering at a high-volume bike Co-op, the #1 cause of 'shot' headsets that we see is false brinelling which leads to 'indexed steering'. You have to think at an atomic level to fully understand this problem, and it has little to do with everything previously mentioned, except perhaps excessive bearing preload. Google it.
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11-19-22, 01:33 PM
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Volunteering at a high-volume bike Co-op, the #1 cause of 'shot' headsets that we see is false brinelling which leads to 'indexed steering'. You have to think at an atomic level to fully understand this problem, and it has little to do with everything previously mentioned, except perhaps excessive bearing preload. Google it.
11-20-22, 11:10 AM
#20
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11-20-22, 05:40 PM
#21
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Volunteering at a high-volume bike Co-op, the #1 cause of 'shot' headsets that we see is false brinelling which leads to 'indexed steering'. You have to think at an atomic level to fully understand this problem, and it has little to do with everything previously mentioned, except perhaps excessive bearing preload. Google it.
From the late Jobst Brandt:
Ball bearings make metal-to-metal contact only under fretting loads
(microscopic oscillations) while the bearing is not turning. Any
perceptible steering motion will replenish lubricant from the oily
meniscus surrounding the contact patch. Peering over the bars at the
front hub while coasting down a road at 20+ mph you will notice the
fork ends vibrating fore and aft. This motion does not arise at the
fork end, but at the fork crown, as it bends the steer tube. Both
head bearings rotate in fretting motion crosswise to the normal plane
of rotation, as the steer tube bends. Dimples form in the forward and
rearward quadrant of both upper and lower bearings from this fretting.
That they also form in the upper bearing shows they are not directly
load related.
Lubrication failure from fretting causes metal to metal contact to
form microscopic welds between balls and races. These welds
repeatedly tear material from the softer of the two causing the
elliptical milky dimples in the races. Were these brinelling marks
(embossed through force), they would be shiny and smooth. Various
testimonials for the durability of one bearing over another are more
likely caused by the lubricant than the design of the bearing. The
rigidly mounted ball bearing has survived longer as a head bearing
than it should, considering its poor performance record.
(microscopic oscillations) while the bearing is not turning. Any
perceptible steering motion will replenish lubricant from the oily
meniscus surrounding the contact patch. Peering over the bars at the
front hub while coasting down a road at 20+ mph you will notice the
fork ends vibrating fore and aft. This motion does not arise at the
fork end, but at the fork crown, as it bends the steer tube. Both
head bearings rotate in fretting motion crosswise to the normal plane
of rotation, as the steer tube bends. Dimples form in the forward and
rearward quadrant of both upper and lower bearings from this fretting.
That they also form in the upper bearing shows they are not directly
load related.
Lubrication failure from fretting causes metal to metal contact to
form microscopic welds between balls and races. These welds
repeatedly tear material from the softer of the two causing the
elliptical milky dimples in the races. Were these brinelling marks
(embossed through force), they would be shiny and smooth. Various
testimonials for the durability of one bearing over another are more
likely caused by the lubricant than the design of the bearing. The
rigidly mounted ball bearing has survived longer as a head bearing
than it should, considering its poor performance record.
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 11-20-22 at 05:44 PM.
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11-22-22, 01:55 PM
#23
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It's fretting damage due to lubrication failure. Unlike hubs, pedals, bottom brackets, etc., headset are not in constant rotation when in use. Stationary balls under load will displace the lubrication between the ball and the race, allowing microscopic welds to form, which tear out when the ball is eventually rotated, leaving a pit. These pits grow over time, allowing the balls to fall into them and causing the "indexed steering" effect.
How you deal with false brinelling? Disassemble the headset. The pits or dimples are always on the lower crown race and cup. Remove the ball-bearing retainer which houses roughly 20 or so balls. Replace this with a greater number of loose balls of the same size as original. Basically pack the race with as many balls as you can minus one. Now the new larger quantity of balls cannot line-up with the old pits. Presto: you've doubled the life of your old headset, with no apparent deterioration in headset smoothness or tightness.
11-22-22, 02:09 PM
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And the fun take:
This just might happen literally if you ride through a gang war. My Mooney got bombed, exactly on the handlebar/stem. By a seagull. Fortunately, no explosion. Both bicycle and rider survived. (I don't think this was an accident. I doubt the typical gang member is anywhere near as good a shot.)
Can. Someone please explain how a headset gets “shot”?
This just might happen literally if you ride through a gang war. My Mooney got bombed, exactly on the handlebar/stem. By a seagull. Fortunately, no explosion. Both bicycle and rider survived. (I don't think this was an accident. I doubt the typical gang member is anywhere near as good a shot.)
11-22-22, 02:21 PM
#25
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Thank you.. this is exactly correct and saved me typing. Again, this failure mode is NOT caused by impacts or water or corrosion or lack of maintenance. It happens largely on road bikes.
How you deal with false brinelling? Disassemble the headset. The pits or dimples are always on the lower crown race and cup. Remove the ball-bearing retainer which houses roughly 20 or so balls. Replace this with a greater number of loose balls of the same size as original. Basically pack the race with as many balls as you can minus one. Now the new larger quantity of balls cannot line-up with the old pits. Presto: you've doubled the life of your old headset, with no apparent deterioration in headset smoothness or tightness.
How you deal with false brinelling? Disassemble the headset. The pits or dimples are always on the lower crown race and cup. Remove the ball-bearing retainer which houses roughly 20 or so balls. Replace this with a greater number of loose balls of the same size as original. Basically pack the race with as many balls as you can minus one. Now the new larger quantity of balls cannot line-up with the old pits. Presto: you've doubled the life of your old headset, with no apparent deterioration in headset smoothness or tightness.
I don't get double the mileage. For a typical Tange, I go ~8000 miles with the first set,then around 2000 with the loose ball. Maybe if I did the swap sooner, I cold get more total. I simply don't sweat it because I rather like swapping headsets on bikes where it is easy. (Faced crown and headtube, steerer right length for available HS, slot cut into steerer.) And I can live with 10,000 miles for $30 + ~$10 + grease.
Now, my King threadless and Stronglight roller HSs? Well the Stronglight is its own animal and I wouldn't even know where to start to find those rollers (Get the right bait and set a trap?) KIng is doing just fine at approaching 20,000 miles. Stronglight? At least as far over 37 years. And dead on perfect.