Stripped Tektro disc brake pad bolt/axle Question
05-18-21, 06:19 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 522
Bikes: Downtube IX NS&FS, Dahon Speed8Pro/Matrix/Curve, Brom S2L,Montague Para, ICE-XL w/Rollie/Schlumpf, Trident Spike, ebikes, BFSatRDay
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 172 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
81 Posts
Stripped Tektro disc brake pad bolt/axle Question
I have a Tektro Auriga HD-M290 Disc Brake caliper with a disc pad bolt/axle with a stripped hex head.
Thin walled head on bolt was stripped by PO.
I can't get a grip on it to turn , too small to drill out or try my spiral easy outs upon.
I can't fit an ASA hex in it. Stripped head istoo small for the easy outs I. have.
Replacement bolts are $10 and out of stock most every where. =8-(). $10 plus shipping for 4gm product
Assuming I can get it out with threads intact:
? If successful are replacements better than fabbing one by grinding down an M4 bolt, in the old drill press "lathe"?
Lack of advertised parts implies frequent failures.
I may try and go all drill press on it, but I have ordered a replacement (which true to ebay, "got lost in the mail")
Is this a common event ? You need to remove it for pad replacement and bleeding. Not often , but needed.
Only easy things yet not done are square easy out to see if it is a fit, or more potentially destructive approaches.
? heat a bad option as pistons are plastic?
Dremel a slot and try screwdriver?
Grind on the ASA hex wrench and try to hammer it in?
Drill out and use split pin? Arghh!
Can one mix calipers between mineral oil using brands?
These are not the greatest brakes by report , but the remaining rear brake has been more than adequate to my needs, with reserved use.
Thanks
Thin walled head on bolt was stripped by PO.
I can't get a grip on it to turn , too small to drill out or try my spiral easy outs upon.
I can't fit an ASA hex in it. Stripped head istoo small for the easy outs I. have.
Replacement bolts are $10 and out of stock most every where. =8-(). $10 plus shipping for 4gm product
Assuming I can get it out with threads intact:
? If successful are replacements better than fabbing one by grinding down an M4 bolt, in the old drill press "lathe"?
Lack of advertised parts implies frequent failures.
I may try and go all drill press on it, but I have ordered a replacement (which true to ebay, "got lost in the mail")
Is this a common event ? You need to remove it for pad replacement and bleeding. Not often , but needed.
Only easy things yet not done are square easy out to see if it is a fit, or more potentially destructive approaches.
? heat a bad option as pistons are plastic?
Dremel a slot and try screwdriver?
Grind on the ASA hex wrench and try to hammer it in?
Drill out and use split pin? Arghh!
Can one mix calipers between mineral oil using brands?
These are not the greatest brakes by report , but the remaining rear brake has been more than adequate to my needs, with reserved use.
Thanks
Last edited by bikebikebike; 05-28-21 at 07:55 PM.
05-18-21, 07:05 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
I think I'd try the screwdriver slot first. If that doesn't work I'd be ok w/ trying to put a cheap Shimano caliper on there...I'd think it would work fine.
Likes For cxwrench:
05-19-21, 07:03 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 522
Bikes: Downtube IX NS&FS, Dahon Speed8Pro/Matrix/Curve, Brom S2L,Montague Para, ICE-XL w/Rollie/Schlumpf, Trident Spike, ebikes, BFSatRDay
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 172 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
81 Posts
Thanks
Well, the Philly post office ate the replacement, so I just started a drill out.
They Loctited (Blue) the pad bolt in,
(note the snap when the tech in the Tektro video pops the bolt loose @ youtu.be/q0SvqxMK_PA?t=83)
Slot plan failed.
Drilled it with a 1/8 starter to a 3/32 and got the small M 5-6 easy out from my $11 HF spiral easy outs to catch.
Was a tight bear due to the blue Loctite.
M4 bolt threaded easily into the body of caliper. There are 4.3mm of threads to the Pad support , the smooth part of shaft which is ~2.3mm,
Which is the same as my nearest coat hanger (or as we say , new retainer / pad axle / pad retaining pin / pad pin)
Not sure if I trust the factory replacement, but the Shimano version uses a pin with a circlip reather than Loctite, if my current replacement pin is felt to be inelegant.
They Loctited (Blue) the pad bolt in,
(note the snap when the tech in the Tektro video pops the bolt loose @ youtu.be/q0SvqxMK_PA?t=83)
Slot plan failed.
Drilled it with a 1/8 starter to a 3/32 and got the small M 5-6 easy out from my $11 HF spiral easy outs to catch.
Was a tight bear due to the blue Loctite.
M4 bolt threaded easily into the body of caliper. There are 4.3mm of threads to the Pad support , the smooth part of shaft which is ~2.3mm,
Which is the same as my nearest coat hanger (or as we say , new retainer / pad axle / pad retaining pin / pad pin)
Not sure if I trust the factory replacement, but the Shimano version uses a pin with a circlip reather than Loctite, if my current replacement pin is felt to be inelegant.
Last edited by bikebikebike; 07-18-21 at 10:32 AM.
05-20-21, 04:21 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,262
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 713 Post(s)
Liked 796 Times
in
473 Posts
You can always just use a cotter pin in place of the bolt. I have the Tektro MD-C550 brakes on one of my bikes, which is the OEM version of the TRP Spyre brakes. The main difference between them is the C550 uses a cotter pin, where the Spyre's have a bolt to retain the pads.
Likes For dsaul:
