My Specialized Roubaix
#1
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My Specialized Roubaix
The new bar tape made it look much better.
The chain has no slack on the front sprocket.
The riding position is much better, even though all I did so far is adjust seat height.
And yes, I really need to kill the grass in my driveway.
#2
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I'll know it's you when I see those tires! <grin>. Though I joke about it like that you are embracing being different and brighter more noticeable colors.
Hopefully it'll be a good bike for you till you one day find out that there is some other aspect of your performance that it's not helping you with.
No slack when in the big/big? Is that a SS DR instead of a GS? If so the cassette might have too big a range.
Hopefully it'll be a good bike for you till you one day find out that there is some other aspect of your performance that it's not helping you with.
No slack when in the big/big? Is that a SS DR instead of a GS? If so the cassette might have too big a range.
Last edited by Iride01; 09-14-21 at 01:02 PM.
#3
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It’s on the small front ring and one of the middle rear gears.
Yeah everyone will know it’s me. I may call it my smurf mobile.
Yeah everyone will know it’s me. I may call it my smurf mobile.
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I didn't quite know and still don't, how to take your comment about no chain slack. You should be able to shift to every different gear combo without fear of the pully wheel getting intimate with the cassette and including the spokes in a three-way. <grin>
However you really don't want slack in the chain for a derailleur equipped bike. Though in some gear combo's you might get a slight sag. Essentially you want the slack taken out, but the rear DR cage to not be at it's limits for forward or rearward movement.
Bike cleaned up real nice. Enjoy it.
However you really don't want slack in the chain for a derailleur equipped bike. Though in some gear combo's you might get a slight sag. Essentially you want the slack taken out, but the rear DR cage to not be at it's limits for forward or rearward movement.
Bike cleaned up real nice. Enjoy it.
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I didn't quite know and still don't, how to take your comment about no chain slack. You should be able to shift to every different gear combo without fear of the pully wheel getting intimate with the cassette and including the spokes in a three-way. <grin>
However you really don't want slack in the chain for a derailleur equipped bike. Though in some gear combo's you might get a slight sag. Essentially you want the slack taken out, but the rear DR cage to not be at it's limits for forward or rearward movement.
Bike cleaned up real nice. Enjoy it.
However you really don't want slack in the chain for a derailleur equipped bike. Though in some gear combo's you might get a slight sag. Essentially you want the slack taken out, but the rear DR cage to not be at it's limits for forward or rearward movement.
Bike cleaned up real nice. Enjoy it.
#6
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The whole chain gap on the chainring isn't close to a good 'tell'...
get a chain checker tool. Either the Park Tools Chain Checker-3.2 or the Bikehand (I have both, work equally well)
well worth the price of admission... replace your chain when you're past the .75 mark... NEVER allow it to go past 1.0 !!!
you'll save yourself from the cost of having to replace the cassette and front rings !!!! for quite some time...
... ahhhmm... the front Quickrelease wheel skewer lever... ahhmm... should go on the left/non-drive side... I know... why?
because, when your support vehicle stops to do a quick wheel change, they're expecting it on the left side... soz you can jam back to the peloton quick like a bunny... LOL!
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT: just reading some reviews on Bikehand tool. Seems their QC may be slipping as far as measurement accuracy goes... Mine checked out accurate, but it's 20 yrs old ??? not sure it's even BikeHand brand, but same 'stamped steel' style...
I would defer to the Park Tools checker... Park Tools - their stuff is always top notch...
Last edited by cyclezen; 09-14-21 at 11:52 PM.
#7
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Actually I think the pulling on the chain around the ring was to see if the ring is worn after putting a new chain on it. I'm not sure how well that works either, but it sounds like it might work.
However in my lifetime so far, I've only had one ring that was ever worn out. At least no others that ever gave me problems. I figure if it won't keep the new chain from skipping when I pedal, that it's worn out.
Checking the chain is too easy to do with a metal scale (ruler). If that pin near the 12 inch mark is more than a 1/16" further than the 12" mark then it's time to think about a new chain. By 1/8" past you may well have worn your cogs or rings or at least started them well on their way to be worn out.
I also will use a Park chain checker and for me it has always been right. But the scale method rules. <grin>
However in my lifetime so far, I've only had one ring that was ever worn out. At least no others that ever gave me problems. I figure if it won't keep the new chain from skipping when I pedal, that it's worn out.
Checking the chain is too easy to do with a metal scale (ruler). If that pin near the 12 inch mark is more than a 1/16" further than the 12" mark then it's time to think about a new chain. By 1/8" past you may well have worn your cogs or rings or at least started them well on their way to be worn out.
I also will use a Park chain checker and for me it has always been right. But the scale method rules. <grin>
#8
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Actually I think the pulling on the chain around the ring was to see if the ring is worn after putting a new chain on it. I'm not sure how well that works either, but it sounds like it might work.
However in my lifetime so far, I've only had one ring that was ever worn out. At least no others that ever gave me problems. I figure if it won't keep the new chain from skipping when I pedal, that it's worn out.
Checking the chain is too easy to do with a metal scale (ruler). If that pin near the 12 inch mark is more than a 1/16" further than the 12" mark then it's time to think about a new chain. By 1/8" past you may well have worn your cogs or rings or at least started them well on their way to be worn out.
I also will use a Park chain checker and for me it has always been right. But the scale method rules. <grin>
However in my lifetime so far, I've only had one ring that was ever worn out. At least no others that ever gave me problems. I figure if it won't keep the new chain from skipping when I pedal, that it's worn out.
Checking the chain is too easy to do with a metal scale (ruler). If that pin near the 12 inch mark is more than a 1/16" further than the 12" mark then it's time to think about a new chain. By 1/8" past you may well have worn your cogs or rings or at least started them well on their way to be worn out.
I also will use a Park chain checker and for me it has always been right. But the scale method rules. <grin>
The seller said he changed chains 2-3 times per season. After meeting him and knowing what he does for a living I can trust what he tells me.
He gave me a new Sram chain when I picked up the bike. When I install it I will buy another one.
#9
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Wow! That bike looks super clean for as old as it is. One of those the original owner never used, I guess. My first road bike was an 09 Roubaix I bought used and it was not near as clean.
Would be worth getting some matching cages.
Would be worth getting some matching cages.
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I will look into replacing parts for looks later.
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#13
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"I won’t say what his profession is but it makes me feel comfortable that he did maintain the bike."
He is a bicycle drive train prototype parts tester specializing in chains?
He is a bicycle drive train prototype parts tester specializing in chains?
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