Mr. 66

This was handled with a combination cablestop/pulley mounted at the seatlug pinch pin.

Positron400

yea, this frame of mine neither has a cabelstop on the seattube nor a pulley on the seatlug pinch bolt. I would like to jerry-righ some form of brake bridge where it's usually mounted on a mixtie. Any ideas?

Mr. 66

I may have one in the stash, it was not that uncommon.

Positron400

Could you maybe share a picture of that brake bridge? Or were you referring to the pulley?

jamesdak 

I've been going over this groupset this weekend. Just cleaning it up then basic servicing and such to get it working to it's full potential. Soaked the STI Shifters in PB Blaster, let them "drain" then relubed with Triflow. Also broke the brakes down a bit and sorted them out. RD jockey cage taken apart for a clean as well as the jockey wheels themselves. BB worked over too with a light coat of oil on the bearings just to keep them nice in storage. If I was using this I'd ditch the caged bearings and go with loose. Basically I just wanted it all sorted out and ready to go. Going offer it up for local sale for a few bucks. Rider quality only but a few extra bucks will help fund other projects. Did the same basic thing with the dang near mint Exage groupset off the Technium.

Positron400

If I was in your area, I would snatch them up IMMEDIATELY.

Mr. 66

I'll looksee for it. The last one I pulled from a Raleigh Sprint Woman's from the the bike boom.

Mr. 66

In the meantime here is an AD readied for ride. Shimano 600, 105 mix with a long cage 200gs Tange headset and Specialized bb.





This was a bare frame purchase with the mindset of clearing out the cluster off parts from the garage.

The upcoming Pinarello was bought with the same goal.

VintageSteelEU

I still have some bits from the 105 group (8 speed RD and clamp later version of the FD, I think). Got rid of hubs, DT shifters and brakes and the crankset was used for a bicycle I gave away to a friend after her bike was damaged. Great shifting quality, in my opinion this group is totally on par with 6400. And even 6500 RD I'm testing currently isn't necessarily any better. Great components for late 80's - early 90's build. I think these would actually look pretty sweet on a white or black bicycle. Thank you for reminding me about these, need to add another item to the clearance. I wish I had more room for bicycles to be able to make use of more components I have and get a different bicycle for every day of the week , but alas, that's not an option.

non-fixie 

Cleaned up my latest acquisition:

Chuck M 

It isn't much. But since I was dealing with the church folk's Chinese hunks o' crap, I haven't been working on my own things. Now that I'm delivering their bikes to them (hopefully) tomorrow evening, I fit up this headset on my '54 Western Flyer three speed. The front fork was badly bent, the steerer tube needed a massage and the threads were wack. I didn't want to invest in a new headset until I knew the fork could be saved. But just fitting everything up tonight I think the fork is saved. I could probably salvage the headset, but the wrench marks bother me quite a bit.

I eat my elephants one piece at a time. As the headset digests, I'll look for EA3 tires, then paint, then some John Bulls, then...

jim dandy

As Received






On schedule for Spring test ride … accessories and adjustments due in February
JD, Dallas

VintageSteelEU

You could try cleaning the wrench marks with some small brass wire brush then rinsing all in white spirits and fill the bite marks with something like silver enamel perhaps? They will still be visible and eventually will come off, but probably would be less jarring. Or just go for a slightly beat up look anyway and turn it into a feature.

Chuck M 

I considered putting it back together with good bearings in everything that turns. But I really want to put more money in it than it will ever be worth like I do all my projects.

Prowler 

I've been a) enjoying the bar end shifters on my Crescent and thinking about trying a set on my Fuji TSIII and b) thinking about changing the RD on the Crescent from a Cyclone short cage to a long cage so I can run a larger big cog. I recently obtained the key bits and am in process of cleaning and lubing. Nice winter work.




I wash everything off real well in OMS, dry, repair if needed then reassemble. Its no longer amazing what poor shape components can be in after 50 years. What amazes me is folks who do not conduct a complete overhaul but just limp along with a wash of WD-40 or something. The dried original lubricant becomes a hard paste/adhesive and must, often, be scraped out to free up the movements. And there can be unseen damage: one shifter had a mangled 0.010mil shim. I'll attempt to fab a replacement. The black muck on the jockey wheels was hard like coal and needed a brass brush to remove.

Mr. 66

Just clearing my drawers out for the Pinarello

VintageSteelEU

Great job! The jockey wheels seem to be in a very good condition now. As for dismantling everything for cleaning old grease, I'm of two minds. That's what I usually do with used components. Though got two NOS Suntour derailleurs where I wasn't sure if I want to get into the coil spring compartment. In both cases all seems to be working just fine (or rather perfect), so I'm not sure if I want to risk messing something up by accident. Probably should open them even just to check if everything's in order in there grease-wise

I have a Cyclone very similar to yours (short cage though). Cable anchor bolt in mine seems to be a bit rubbish, but that's a relatively doable fix (by manufacturing a replacement). I have a bigger problem with the aluminium casing the tension coil spring sits in. There's a fair amount of play (0.5mm) with everything seemingly tightened as much as possible. Any ideas for a possible fix?

Mr. 66

I didn't see one on the quick, I know I butchered one not real long ago for the pulley.

Here is one pictured, the cable comes up to an adjuster then over and back down to the straddle

Positron400

Ahhh thanks! How's the braking perfomance?

Prowler 

I’ve not noticed a problem on the two other Cyclones I have (one short cage, one GT long cage like the one I’m cleaning now). I recommend starting a separate thread as this is a good question. Only two bearing surfaces on that “casing”, shaft cap on one end and shaft journal on the other. I don’t know what play NOS units have. Also keep in mind the cage design differences: these GT long cage models have the guide pulley right on the end of that shaft so 0.5mm may not matter. The short cage models have the guide pulley out “ahead” of that shaft so play would be telegraphed to a greater amount that maybe does matter. Does the play you’ve seen effect RD performance?

IIRC Shimano converted a “defect” to a “feature” on their recent RDs. The guide pulleys have play built in to improve indexed shifting performance (Syncron or something?). I’ve had pretty worn (pulley wobbled on its bushing) pulleys that shift just fine. But then I shift a bike like it’s an old wood sided three-on-the-column standard wagon: double clutch, ease into the next gear and slowly let out the clutch. Septuagenarian speed.

markwesti

This could have been a saved from the dump post . Well it didn't go that far , but I did rescue it from a back yard . It was a pile of rusty parts .This little guy is called a Benchmaster , It is a bench top mill , it is pretty rare at least in my parts , I have been looking for over 12 years . I think the Co. quit making these in the fifty's . I still have a ways to go with it . Like a stuck seat post , the cutter holder is stuck in the spindle . Yes , I have used Kroil . Next I will be heating things up .
IMG_1096 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_1078 by mark westi, on Flickr

Mr. 66

Performace wise, just fine, as good as any other routing imo. What could happen with these bitd is moisture could seep into the cable line and rust in the housing loop up, causing seize if not addressed.

VintageSteelEU

I'll probably wait with the separate thread. I'm looking at it now and I will have to take it apart to have a closer look. The central shaft (which also works as a holder of the upper end of the spring) seemed to be sitting in there very firmly (I couldn't unscrew it for sure), so I'm guessing that bit should be ok. But I'm thinking that adding an extra shim between the cage and the casing might help and could be a good first step. If there is still any play at the locking bolt, perhaps I might be able to source something with a slightly larger diameter. Got another Cyclone somewhere (which doesn't have this problem), so I can do some research, part swapping etc. The amount of play is really not very significant and the derailleur shifts well enough. I replaced it on the bicycle with Vx-S because I was able to find Vx FD as well and I think it fits the general tier of the bicycle better (it sits on the Grand Sprint). Well, also the cable anchor bolt was a bit annoying and really needs replacing.
I'm not even really sure what I will do with the Cyclones yet. Sourcing Suntour 70's components in the UK is generally not easy, even if you want to throw money at the vintage component sellers. In the past few months I've seen maybe one Cyclone FD for sale in the UK, a few more in Europe and all others are in the US. But even if I end up with a set, I'm already completing Superbe components which I'm planning to use on a build, then I have a nearly complete 6400 group to use for something and my commuting bike is fine with 600EX SIS.

Anyhow, yes Shimano Centeron pulley has some play by design. Overall I suppose that actually the ramps on rear casette / freewheel cogs and indexing shifters probably play a greater role in smooth shifting than floating pulley. But I actually find Suntour Power Shifters quite usable now that I'm riding with friction shifters more. Sure, it's not as quick as indexed shifting, but perfectly alright. My previous experience was with fairly worn out shifters which were very fiddly and never stayed in the correct position for long, but the ratchet ones are pretty darn good.

VintageSteelEU

If you are planning to repaint the frame, I'd take it to a frame builder and ask them to add a new bridge on the middle stays. Prices I've seen for that are around 70 whatevers (quid, euro, US dollars). Probably you wouldn't even have to repaint the whole frame, you could do just the stays and you could even paint them blue. Don't know how fancy you want the bike afterwards.
If you're not into repainting anything, I'd follow the trail of adapter plates for rear panier racks. Some of them seem to come with plates you put on the stays and then mount the rack to that.
I would probably make that plate myself though, to make sure it's made of some fairly thick, solid steel. Two plates, both with concave grooves at the end (so you'd need some good vice and some rod of correct thickness to hammer the sheet metal around), then drill some holes for bolts to hold botk plates together and of course the hole for the brake bolt in the centre. You put some Tesa tape on the stays to protect the paint a bit (or bits of old inner tube, or strips of vinyl or whatever you'd like to use), mount the plates and mount the caliper. You will need some spacer (probably around 8-10mm) to keep the caliper away from that plate. Yes, it is a bit of work, but I think having less complicated cable routing does matter when it comes to braking.
You might also be able to find a ready made suitable adapter plate, I'm pretty sure rack manufacturers already faced similar problem and found an acceptable solution.

bikemig 

I picked up this 1993 Trek 750 late last year. I'll rebuild it over the summer to do a bunch of trail riding I have planned out including a trip to Minnesota. I've wanted one of the top end lugged Trek hybrids for a while. This one showed up locally. It was clean and reasonably priced at $125. The PO put on drops but fortunately kept the thumbshifters. My plans are to run trekking bars and install fatter tires (700 x 38c). I'm fairly certain I'll need to swap out the cantilevers and install a new chain. I reckon the rest of the bike will be just fine after I overhaul it.