Thread for Specialized Sirrus
#1651
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Believe it or not, I tried it with the rim strap and no tape and it seems to be working. It looked tight enough to work. I'll probably swap it out for tape the next time I have the tires off.
#1652
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I finally got enough posts to allow me to show pictures. These are our bikes on NBD. I outlined the changes I made above. The biggest difference in my wifes' was to change her tires to Rhombus Pros running tubeless. She has had a few crashes and wanted to get more control on the rough gravel roads that make up 90% of our riding. I'm not ready to give up my pathfinder pros yet, although I wish they were 42s and not 38s.
Last edited by dougpgreen; 09-18-21 at 11:57 AM. Reason: fix typos
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#1653
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The last couple of bike shops from whom I've bought new bikes had a folder in a file catalog system for each bike. When you bought a bike from the floor, they'd go to their folder system, pull out the folder for that bike, and all the stuff that came with the bike was there (owner's manual, any hex wrenches, etc.). They'd either just give me the whole folder or they'd give me the stuff in the folder and they'd peel off the ID label and use that folder for the next new bike they built. I think that's a great way to build customer confidence in the shop (attention to detail, organization, etc.).
#1654
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I finally got enough posts to allow me to show pictures. These are our bike on NBD. I outlined the changes I made above. THe biggest difference in my Wifes was to change her tires to Rhombus Pros running tubeles. She has had a few crashes and wanted to get more control on the rough gravel roads that make up 90% of our riding. I'm not ready to give up my pathfinder pros yet, although I wish they were 42s and not 38s.
Are they even the same size?
#1655
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I ended up removing the rim straps and put down 2 wraps of WTB 24mm tape. While the front may have held, after opening the rear, I noted the strap was folded and pushed over to the side. Now to see if the supplied valves hold... I did trim the washer a bit to better fit the profile of the drop.
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Which Sirrus X? The stock wheelset on the 5.0 looks nice enough, and is strong, but boat-anchor heavy. I haven't bothered to weigh mine, but probably around 2000 - 2100 grams. Pretty typical for 'stock' wheels at that pricepoint.
#1665
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Maybe it's just dumb luck, but I inspected the rim straps and they looked pristine and tight to the rims. I've only had problems with a very slow leakage on one of the 4 wheels and I think I chased that down to a valve core. At this point I really want to undo all of it and put on tape and replace the valves with ones that fit the rims better, but at present it ain't broke. I'm probably going to just buy the materials for at least one bike and have them handy if I run into issues. I don't know which is more un-nerving, when something is supposed to work and doesn't or when something is working for you and you find out it shouldn't.
Ordered a set of OrangeSeal 48mm valve stems off Amazon, which come with two styles of gasket (cone and round wedge) and o-ring seal for stem nut. I used the wedge gasket and put in ~75 mL of OrangeSeal endurance. So far, the wheel is holding pressure and I've had no issues on a few rides.
#1666
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A little bit of weight-savings from the tubeless conversion, but the biggest difference I found is the increase in suppleness (at the same psi) and less rolling resistance or effort to move. So overall I'm very happy with the switch to tubeless.
As far as weights:
- 147g tube (28-38C)
+ 5g tubeless valve stem (48mm)
+ 90g OS endurance (90mL)
I didn't weigh the factory rim strap vs. WTB tape, I'll call it a wash. I also installed a CG-R "cobble gobbler" 350 mm carbon seat post... but, tire pressure and tubeless made a bigger difference to comfort. I would put in order: tire pressure > tubeless > carbon seat post
Exceptions might be sprung seat post like the Redshift, Kinekt or Canyon VCLS 2.0.
As far as weights:
- 147g tube (28-38C)
+ 5g tubeless valve stem (48mm)
+ 90g OS endurance (90mL)
I didn't weigh the factory rim strap vs. WTB tape, I'll call it a wash. I also installed a CG-R "cobble gobbler" 350 mm carbon seat post... but, tire pressure and tubeless made a bigger difference to comfort. I would put in order: tire pressure > tubeless > carbon seat post
Exceptions might be sprung seat post like the Redshift, Kinekt or Canyon VCLS 2.0.
#1667
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A little bit of weight-savings from the tubeless conversion, but the biggest difference I found is the increase in suppleness (at the same psi) and less rolling resistance or effort to move. So overall I'm very happy with the switch to tubeless.
As far as weights:
- 147g tube (28-38C)
+ 5g tubeless valve stem (48mm)
+ 90g OS endurance (90mL)
I didn't weigh the factory rim strap vs. WTB tape, I'll call it a wash. I also installed a CG-R "cobble gobbler" 350 mm carbon seat post... but, tire pressure and tubeless made a bigger difference to comfort. I would put in order: tire pressure > tubeless > carbon seat post
Exceptions might be sprung seat post like the Redshift, Kinekt or Canyon VCLS 2.0.
As far as weights:
- 147g tube (28-38C)
+ 5g tubeless valve stem (48mm)
+ 90g OS endurance (90mL)
I didn't weigh the factory rim strap vs. WTB tape, I'll call it a wash. I also installed a CG-R "cobble gobbler" 350 mm carbon seat post... but, tire pressure and tubeless made a bigger difference to comfort. I would put in order: tire pressure > tubeless > carbon seat post
Exceptions might be sprung seat post like the Redshift, Kinekt or Canyon VCLS 2.0.
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In May I found the Sirrus 6.0 black/rainbow and knew this was the bike. And since May I haven't been able to find it. A Specialized website person told me they've ended production. What's next? When's 2022? Will the bikes have the same awesome color?
In May I found the Sirrus 6.0 black/rainbow and knew this was the bike. And since May I haven't been able to find it. A Specialized website person told me they've ended production. What's next? When's 2022? Will the bikes have the same awesome color?
#1669
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Those x 4.0 and 5.0 riders, FYI, the future shock as delivered may not have a spring pre-installed. Mine came without from the LBS and I had to ask for any parts/manuals prior to leaving.
Threw up a poll on ******:
I put in the medium spring and it made a difference on todays ride. You'd think adding a spring would make it stiffer, but it actually increased front-end compliance. The FS uses a # of springs internally (booster/tuning spring, progressive main and top-out), from what I've seen in a Specialized Deep Dive video. Usually springs in series reduce spring rate, but without knowing the specifics of the FS... it just guessing. Alternatively, the booster spring is keeping the FS up higher in its travel where the progressive main spring is softer.
Threw up a poll on ******:
I put in the medium spring and it made a difference on todays ride. You'd think adding a spring would make it stiffer, but it actually increased front-end compliance. The FS uses a # of springs internally (booster/tuning spring, progressive main and top-out), from what I've seen in a Specialized Deep Dive video. Usually springs in series reduce spring rate, but without knowing the specifics of the FS... it just guessing. Alternatively, the booster spring is keeping the FS up higher in its travel where the progressive main spring is softer.
Last edited by bmwpowere36m3; 10-01-21 at 09:31 PM.
#1670
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Those x 4.0 and 5.0 riders, FYI, the future shock as delivered may not have a spring pre-installed. Mine came without from the LBS and I had to ask for any parts/manuals prior to leaving.
Threw up a poll on ******:
I put in the medium spring and it made a difference on todays ride. You'd think adding a spring would make it stiffer, but it actually increased front-end compliance. The FS uses a # of springs internally (booster/tuning spring, progressive main and top-out), from what I've seen in a Specialized Deep Dive video. Usually springs in series reduce spring rate, but without knowing the specifics of the FS... it just guessing. Alternatively, the booster spring is keeping the FS up higher in its travel where the progressive main spring is softer.
Threw up a poll on ******:
I put in the medium spring and it made a difference on todays ride. You'd think adding a spring would make it stiffer, but it actually increased front-end compliance. The FS uses a # of springs internally (booster/tuning spring, progressive main and top-out), from what I've seen in a Specialized Deep Dive video. Usually springs in series reduce spring rate, but without knowing the specifics of the FS... it just guessing. Alternatively, the booster spring is keeping the FS up higher in its travel where the progressive main spring is softer.
#1674
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Sirrus 5.0 Rear Rack
Anyone installed a rear rack on a Sirrus X 5.0? If so, what has been your experience? Did you use the dropout and fender mounts, or attach to the seatpost? Looking at options.
#1675
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I've got a question for someone smarter than me! I recently contacted Specialized about 650B wheels on the Sirrus x 5.0 and they suggested not to because of the risk of pedal strikes.
Can someone tell me the difference in bottom bracket height on a 700c w/ 38mm tires vs a 650b with 47mm tires?
Thanks,
Robert
Can someone tell me the difference in bottom bracket height on a 700c w/ 38mm tires vs a 650b with 47mm tires?
Thanks,
Robert