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Help! Can’t remove broken RD bolt from hanger.

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Help! Can’t remove broken RD bolt from hanger.

Old 12-27-21, 12:46 PM
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daveed
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Help! Can’t remove broken RD bolt from hanger.

Hello. I need help removing a sheared rear derailer bolt (the result of shifting gears while climbing). Drilling and extraction bits haven’t done the job. I cannot get through to the other side, either. Can the bolt be removed? And if so, do I run the risk of ruining the hanger in so doing? Thank you and Happy New Year! FYI: This is a steel frame.


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Old 12-27-21, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by daveed
Hello. I need help removing a sheared rear derailer bolt (the result of shifting gears while climbing). Drilling and extraction bits haven’t done the job. I cannot get through to the other side, either. Can the bolt be removed? And if so, do I run the risk of ruining the hanger frame in so doing? Thank you and Happy New Year! FYI: This is a steel frame.


You should be able to drill through the bolt pretty easily w/ a good bit, I don't understand why this is a problem. Hammer a Torx bit in there.
ETA: This didn't happen because you shifted while climbing, something wasn't adjusted correctly. People shift in all sorts of situations. And it looks like your photos are flipped backwards, what's up w/ that?

Last edited by cxwrench; 12-27-21 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 12-27-21, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by daveed
Drilling and extraction bits haven’t done the job.
Have you tried left hand bits, in the hope they'd back it out?

Penetrating oil first?

With extreme care you might be able to drill out the center of the screw, needle file it to the minor diameter, and maybe pick the remaining helix out of the threads with a dental pick or something.

I made an interesting discovery once that an arbor press worked wonders on munged phillips heads - I could use the press to smoosh a bit into the screw and then a wrench to turn the bit and back screw, even though I was backing it out against the pressing force. Not sure that would apply here, though part of the idea of the press is cold flowing the screw head, so smooshing a phillips into what was once a hex isn't out of the question.

Last edited by UniChris; 12-27-21 at 12:57 PM.
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Old 12-27-21, 01:22 PM
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Suggest you use a series of HIGH QUALITY carbide tipped drill bits in successively larger sizes to drill that out.
Then buy a Hanger Saver (basically a nut inserted from the back side) to affix the new RD.
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Old 12-27-21, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
You should be able to drill through the bolt pretty easily w/ a good bit, I don't understand why this is a problem.
My guess is that the OP is trying to drill and/or EZ out without first stabilizing the right drop-out on a hard surface, which would be understandable as it's an awkward part of the frame to secure..
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Old 12-27-21, 01:30 PM
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If you're going to keep drilling use the correct tap drill size as you final drill and use a tap to clean out the existing threads.
​​​​​​https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-Am...1-25/304746993

If you mess up the threads use a drop out saver
​​​​​​https://wheelsmfg.com/presses-tools/dropout-savers.html

Got connections find a machine shop or service with a MDM or EDM machine.
https://brokentap.com/services/
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Old 12-27-21, 01:31 PM
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Thanks. I can get good purchase on the frame. But, yes, it is awkward.
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Old 12-27-21, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
You should be able to drill through the bolt pretty easily w/ a good bit, I don't understand why this is a problem. Hammer a Torx bit in there.
ETA: This didn't happen because you shifted while climbing, something wasn't adjusted correctly. People shift in all sorts of situations. And it looks like your photos are flipped backwards, what's up w/ that?
Photos are not flipped. So nothing is up. Once I look up Torx bit I’ll give it a go. Thank you.
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Old 12-27-21, 02:30 PM
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If you aren't experienced, and I assume you aren't since you had to ask, you might just let it be a problem for your LBS mechanic. You do stand a chance of messing up that DR mount and since it's not a replaceable hangar.... well you know.
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Old 12-27-21, 02:31 PM
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Try penetrating fluid FIRST. Let soak at least 2 days and try extractor bit again. A 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid & acetone is about the best penetrating fluid followed by Kano Kroil Oil or PB Blaster is decent.
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Old 12-27-21, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
Try penetrating fluid FIRST. Let soak at least 2 days and try extractor bit again. A 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid & acetone is about the best penetrating fluid followed by Kano Kroil Oil or PB Blaster is decent.
Thanks. But I don’t keep any of that stuff about.
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Old 12-27-21, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ericoseveins
My guess is that the OP is trying to drill and/or EZ out without first stabilizing the right drop-out on a hard surface, which would be understandable as it's an awkward part of the frame to secure..
Yeah, could be that. I'd probably take both wheels out, turn the front 90 degree, lay it on its side on the floor and build a bridge of scrap wood through the rear to support the dropout.

The real question is if I'd try to do all of that on the workbench in a way that would position it under the drillpress...

Have to go see if I can manage something similar on a nice sturdy salvaged rear rack to get what were once battery dock connectors off, one of the 4 screws on each side failed. And my arbor press is a 2 hour drive away. I this case I'm thinking what I'm going to do is maybe try to drill the screws from the back in the conventional direction in the hope that they unscrew.
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Old 12-27-21, 09:54 PM
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A length of all thread and some nuts will tie the two dropouts together for real cheap.

Given all the paint gauges about the hanger I suspect there's been some "incidents" before. Andy
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Old 12-27-21, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
You should be able to drill through the bolt pretty easily w/ a good bit, I don't understand why this is a problem. Hammer a Torx bit in there.
ETA: This didn't happen because you shifted while climbing, something wasn't adjusted correctly. People shift in all sorts of situations. And it looks like your photos are flipped backwards, what's up w/ that?

It should be obvious to the most casual viewer he said "flip side" on the photo. Nothing wrong with the photo. And it can happen while shifting while climbing.
We have had this same repair in our shop before from the same thing.
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Old 12-28-21, 11:38 AM
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In our neck of the woods,, in northern CA, we see a lot of crazy mountain bike repairs. There is a lot of trails where they torture test the bikes. The malady in this thread and others happen. Pedals broken off or bent down from the jumps and stomping down. Bent derailleur hangers are common.
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Old 12-29-21, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by frogman
In our neck of the woods,, in northern CA, we see a lot of crazy mountain bike repairs. There is a lot of trails where they torture test the bikes. The malady in this thread and others happen. Pedals broken off or bent down from the jumps and stomping down. Bent derailleur hangers are common.
Ha. This "torture test" happened while shifting on a mild climb on a suburban street. How I wish I could torture test on single track in your neck of the woods.
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Old 12-30-21, 12:43 PM
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left hand bit
straight fluted extraction tool
a proper tap wrench


been there, done that, on my car (over torqued one of the bolts holding my rear hatch on)

EXCERPT: you need new bits, special harder
cobalt bits & several because they dull going into that hardened removal tool. a cpl lefthand bits too. then, when you get a new hole in that Easyout (which is stuck in the bolt), or after you drill it out completely leaving just the original broken bolt (with a nice centered hole) then get a straight, fluted, (not spiral) extraction tool, the correct size & use a proper tap wrench to turn it

it took me weeks. good luck!








in the end you want this in your hand





these are my NAPA straight fluted screw extractors. guess I got them at an auto parts store. part # SER 720

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER720

this is a tap wrench to use w the fluted extractors

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Ameri...rds=tap+wrench

the spiral tools & so called Easyouts & similar tools are inferior



a hole the correct size matched with the correct extractor allows the extractor to be inserted a decent depth, not just the tip



was so nice getting the new bolt installed



guess I'm not the only person to break an extraction tool inside a broken bolt
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ay-remove.html

Last edited by rumrunn6; 12-30-21 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 01-01-22, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by rumrunn6
you need new bits, special harder cobalt bits & several because they dull going into that hardened removal tool.
Broken off hardened tools like extractors or taps can be removed by breaking up into smaller pieces with a punch and removed with picks and compressed air.
Due to their hardness they fracture fairly easily. Did this plenty on large $$$ weldments when taps got broken off in blind holes.
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Old 01-02-22, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rumrunn6
left hand bit
straight fluted extraction tool
a proper tap wrench


been there, done that, on my car (over torqued one of the bolts holding my rear hatch on)

EXCERPT: you need new bits, special harder
cobalt bits & several because they dull going into that hardened removal tool. a cpl lefthand bits too. then, when you get a new hole in that Easyout (which is stuck in the bolt), or after you drill it out completely leaving just the original broken bolt (with a nice centered hole) then get a straight, fluted, (not spiral) extraction tool, the correct size & use a proper tap wrench to turn it

it took me weeks. good luck!








in the end you want this in your hand





these are my NAPA straight fluted screw extractors. guess I got them at an auto parts store. part # SER 720

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER720

this is a tap wrench to use w the fluted extractors

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Ameri...rds=tap+wrench

the spiral tools & so called Easyouts & similar tools are inferior



a hole the correct size matched with the correct extractor allows the extractor to be inserted a decent depth, not just the tip



was so nice getting the new bolt installed



guess I'm not the only person to break an extraction tool inside a broken bolt
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ay-remove.html
Yikes! Thank you for the info. But you know what? I paid $45 for the Nashbar frame a dozen years ago and it has served me well. I may now donate it as is to the local co-op after removing the components.
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Old 01-02-22, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by daveed
I paid $45 for the Nashbar frame a dozen years ago and it has served me well. I may now donate it as is to the local co-op after removing the components.
for considering donation. However if there isn't any that can use that frame, don't feel bad about sending it to the scrap yard. Some think that's wasteful, but scrap yards aren't the final stop. That's were they get sent off to be melted down and become something new for less of a environmental hit than mining ore and smelting it.
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