soulmango 

Hi all,

Have only ever removed/replaced non-aero or ergo levers on a road bike & these Campy Record 8-speed brifters are new enough for me not to be knowledge about, but old enough for me to worry about just yanking off the hoods in fear of possible ripping of the rubber & lack of option to replace if that was to happen.




Any suggestions for how I need to proceed for removal, & options for replacement hoods should the worst happen?

Thanks for any help.

Andrew R Stewart 

So I gather it's only the hoods that you want to remove (opposed to the subject of the levers). Two ways to do this.

One is with the levers still on the bars. this is the more hood tearing method as the amount of stretch to get over the body's point is greatest.

The other is with the levers off the bars and this is easier on the hoods. I much prefer this way as I've torn a few hoods the other way.

Either way I strongly suggest a lube to help the hood slide over the body. I use Clean Streak and work fast before the solvent dries.

I generally will do a Ergo guts rebuild when the hoods finally need replacing. Andy

soulmango 

Hey Andrew. I appreciate your responding so quickly.

I apologize as I glaringly didn’t make it very clear of my intentions. I am switching out stem & bars & am
unwrapping tape & cables & need to swap the whole lever/shifter combo over to the new bars.

I still want to be very aware & safe toward any work with the hoods, so your info is definitely still worthwhile.

Thanks again,
Saul

Andrew R Stewart 

Just roll up the bar end of the hoods, like a pant leg. After installing and taping unroll the hoods over the tape. Andy

soulmango 

Thanks again, Andy.

I need to know how to get the levers off. I only know how to do it on the old style of levers that has the band with the nut thy you access when you open the lever & insert a hex wrench. I don’t see that capability on these.

gkamieneski

I have the same levers and I know I haven’t touched them since I installed them, but I’m quite sure they installed with a hex just like any other lever. Undo the cable, depress the lever and look inside.

Russ Roth

Pull the cover back gently from the top of the lever at the front, don't have to move it much. The bolt, if I remember on those right, is a 5mm allen, the ones on my Sachs were shallow so don't use a ball end. You should be able to notice there's a slight impression or divot in the top of the lever, that's the spot the bolt sits in, just slide the allen under the hood into that spot and wiggle it a little till it seats into the bolt and unscrew as normal. Once loose you will of course need to slightly pull the hood away from the tape, it won't want to stay pulled away unless you pull it around from the thumb lever but considering the age of the rubber I wouldn't do that. Also leave the wrench in until you have the lever all the way off, you may find depending on the curve of the bar, that you have to loosen more and as you will discover finding that bolt will be annoying. Not a hard job just requires a careful touch to avoid ripping anything.

gearbasher

Hex key (long and I believe it's 5mm) the bolt is accessed from the front on the outboard side. It can be done without removing the hoods. Just slip the Allen under the hood. See parts breakdown photo for location. Just north of where the "11" is pointing.



Edit: Russ just beat me to it.

soulmango 

Russ Roth & gearbasher, I think this is exactly what I needed to hear & see. Thank you!
Andrew, thank you for the extra insight with the hoods.
Now, on an off chance, does anyone know if these hoods are still purchasable or which I’d look for (is there a specific model name/era I need to search?)
Thanks again, all
Saul

gearbasher

Still available. Look for EC-RE500

https://www.google.com/search?q=EC-R...hrome&ie=UTF-8

One piece of advice: when reinstalling them, don't make them crazy tight. Campy has a torque recommendation that I can't recall, only because when I used it, I cracked two bodies.

soulmango 

Excellent to see & thank you for the link!

And, I’ll definitely check into the torque info. I’m pretty gentle overall, but still, good to know.

gearbasher

I found my torque chart. Campy recommends 10 N.m. (88.5 in/lbs.). Too much in my opinion. Like I said, I cracked two bodies using those specs.

Russ Roth

Would agree, especially on carbon bars which are typically only rated to 5 Nm though most bars I've used have texturing to keep them from moving in that area so lower than recommended should be fine. For aluminum I tighten them till they don't move without a lot of effort since most people crank on them when sprinting or out of saddle climbing but I test as I go to avoid overtightening.