Koyote

The Thule rack (whatever they are currently calling their top-line tray-style rack) doesn't have any of those issues. The top handle unlocks and tilts the rack (My petite wife does it without difficulty), the hitch pin is built into the rack, and it'll take anything from 20mm tires up to fat bikes with no mods. Oh, and you don't need an add-on to use it with fenders -- though I suspect the 1up add-on that you described works better.

prj71

I had a Thule Rack at one time but sold it. I never use fenders on my bikes so that's never a concern for me.

Kapusta

No way in hell I would clamp that down on a fender. The cushion just keeps your fender from getting scratched while you crush it.

Here is what I do instead: move the crossbar down to the lowest position so that it goes under the fender. Then use a strap on the wheel at the bottom. This is an area where the Quikrack2 is an improvement, as you don't need any tools to move the crossbar down. 1UP was selling a crossbar that would slide up and down easily as an extra, but I don't see it on their site anymore. I rarely need to do this, so it is not a big deal.

Kapusta

Not an issue on the front, you can make the crossbar clamp in front of the fender. The rear is an issue, but honestly, I'm not clamping anything down on a fender (metal, plastic, or cushion). My post above shown how I deal with it the rare times I need to. It is the one real drawback I run into with the 1UP, but for me it is rare that I put that bike on the rack.

gpburdell

I don't believe you're supposed to "clamp down on a fender" so that shouldn't be an issue.

Kapusta

Then what is the point of even having the fender cushion that you linked to?

gpburdell

You'll have to ask 1UP USA what their specific intent was in creating it.

I suppose some might consider it as a "backup" protection in case of bumping the fender into the rail, or they might orient the swing arm to not quite touch the fender and have the cushion in case the strap slips or loosens, or they might have a bit more finesse than you do and find they can adjust the swing arm to just touch the fender without crushing it - while the strap plays the majority role in securing the wheel per the graphic I copied from 1UP.

If you're unable to imagine circumstances in which others might find use for the product, I'm sure the kind folks at 1UP can assist you in the answers you seek.

I linked the product so other folks were aware of it existence in case they were able to imagine uses for it that hadn't occurred to you. I don't own the product.

Koyote

Not a big deal. I have a bike with Honjo Aluminum fenders. On the front, I slide a bit of pipe insulation between the tire and the fender, then run the clamp (Thule rack) down snug. It holds tight and the fender is no worse for it. On the rear of that rack, there is just the ratcheting strap to hold down the wheel. I've driven a fendered bike hundreds of miles like that.

gpburdell

Thanks for the real world experience. I suspect you're not clamping down enough to crush it either. Good to know if it looks like I might need to carry a fendered bike on my 1UP. I suspect there's a big YMMV in there as well as there's various types and strengths of fenders.

Kapusta

Their intent in creating it was precisely for clamping it down on the fender. They have been selling the fender cushion for years, long before the system above (with the wheel stop) was invented. You clamped the fender just like you would a tire. It was a terrible idea.

It was such a terrible idea that they finally came out with a better system using the wheel stop you pictured (and kudos to them for doing that). But with that system, you don’t need the fender cushion. They don't mention the fender cushion in the directions for using the wheel stop. They tell you to have the rear arm hover over the fender. So you are not clamping the fender... so you don't even need the cushion. What you have is essentially a rack that works like any other front wheel clamping rack that you strap the back wheel down. It does not even really need the rear clamp arm.

If you want to engage the rear clamp arm, one would be better off doing what I showed. Either with or without the wheel lock (doing what I showed, you don't even need the wheel stop, it serves the same purpose in this case: keeping the front wheel pressed against the front clamp arm. If the wheel lock works... great, use it. The issue I have with it is that you can't move it. It is just in one fixed position. At least that it the way it looks. I could be mistaken.

prj71

Don't get me wrong...I like the 1up rack...but I hate how they then leave things off the rack that should have been there as standard and then make you buy them after the fact.

The following should be standard when you buy the rack...

1.) This fat bike spacer kit should be made so that the spacer fits all tire sizes just like the Quick Rack. https://www.1up-usa.com/product/fat-tire-spacer-kit/

2.) This is what pissed me off the most when I got the rack. You have to buy this separate if you want to be able to raise and lower the rack from the back. https://www.1up-usa.com/product/ez-pull/

3.) Hole for hitch pin should have been standard size like every other hitch. But nooooo...

Also found out that they don't keep track of the key codes. So if you order other lock accessories after the fact you can't get it keyed it alike.

Lol... on the foam fender cushion mount from 1up. $13 for a piece of pipe insulation foam. You can buy a 6ft piece of that from the hardware store for $2-$3

Koyote

Again none of these are issues for the equivalent Thule rack.

prj71

That's actually the rack I had. I second guess selling it and buying the 1up.

sarhog

I wouldn’t characterize that rack as equivalent. It’s plastic, wider, more expensive, doesn’t allow for offset for other bikes, and requires a strap to hold the rear wheel down.
If by equivalent you mean holds 2 bikes, disregard my comments.

Altair 4

I checked out the link you provided. The Rockymount is extremely similar to the Kuat Transfer 2. If the Rockymount is a serious contender for you, I'd cross-price it against the Kuat. I bought our Kuat at Etrailer and the actual price was lower than shown online. It was a nice surprise.

- EDIT - Never mind on the cross-price. I just priced the Transfer 2. The Kuat has a new version of the Transfer and it's quite a bit more expensive than the old version and more than the Rockymount.

Kapusta

And what is not plastic is steel instead of aluminum, and does not give you the option to add or remove single trays. And it does not offer the option to fold up like this... completely out of the way, and not blocking the rear gate (not my car):




This was actually a major selling point for me.

I’m not saying the Thule is a worse rack. Just that i think you need to really consider the whole experience of owning and using the racks to know for sure which is the better one for you in real life.

gpburdell

Likewise. I'm pretty sure that Thule won't fit in the trunk of my Miata, which my 1UP QuikRack Single does...

prj71

By the time you buy all of the add-ons from 1up so that it will do all of the things that the Thule rack does, it will cost you more than the Thule rack.

prj71

https://www.thule.com/en-us/bike-rac...elium-1-_-9039

travbikeman

Thanks! I've been reading good things on that Kuat. So it is something I'm considering. Had read a few bad reviews on the Rockmount and decided to look further before making any final decision. But the pricing of the Kuat is still less than the Saris by $100.

Kapusta

#1 is a good point. They should just spec it with wider arms to start with and use a different crossbars that will work with varying tire widths. The one they spec with the fat kit is not great for skinny road tires. I made this for greater flexibility, and it looks like this is the direction they went with the Quikrack2.



(The top one is the one they supplied, the bottom one is the one I made)

I think #2 is relevant more for some folks than others. I’ve got no problem reaching under with 1-2 bikes, but it is a no-go with three, and it requires a helper to hold the bikes up while I reach under. However, I seldom have three trays on so it’s not that big of a deal for me. if it was more common I would get the rear handle.

however, I have a few women friends who struggle with even two bikes to lower it.

The problem with the handles they sell is that it takes a different handle depending on how many trays you have.

I never use a hitch pin with mine. It is not needed for stability, and I use this method for security and as a backup in case the rack loosens:

sarhog

I’m not sure what add ons you’re referring to. Mine came with everything I need. I don’t have fenders or fat bikes. Not sure what accessories I’d even need?

prj71

I like the idea of the one you fabricated. But as noted...it should have been done like QuickRack. One spacer covers all tire widths.

I find reaching under the rack to be a pain with two bikes. The girlfriend struggled more than I did to do it. Like I said...their EZ Pull add on should have been standard on the rack.

I bring up the hitch pin issue as a theft thing. While they do have a special allen wrench tool that locks it into the receiver, I'm sure there is way to loosen up up that bolt with an existing tool that may be out there. I have a stainless steel locking hitch pin that I use on my trailer and was surprised when it didn't fit on the 1up rack. They claim the hole is smaller due to the anti-wobble mechanism being in the way. Again...QuickRack has a better design for this allowing you to use a standard off the shelf hitch pin instead of one supplied by 1up.

Kapusta

Is this Thule’s alternative to a 1UP single tray?

Costs more. More plastic. Cross bar height is not adjustable. You can’t add another tray to it (with the 1UP, you can add up to two more trays).

gpburdell

The special tool is a standard SAE 3/8" tamper-resistant / security hex key. Fairly readily available from various sources, but less common than the conventional 3/8" hex key. I wouldn't trust it to do anything but deter the casual opportunistic rack thief who doesn't happen to carry security bits around with them...

I don't have the 2" receiver racks so no experience with what they use for a hitch pin - if it's the same diameter as their 1/4" lock pins then a 3" coupler ought to work fine. https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Pins-.../37201281.html

In any event we all have different needs and preferences, so it's nice there's a variety of racks available so we can each choose what best fits our individual situation.