Noonievut

I have a new GRX wheelset, and it shipped with a 1.85mm spacer to use if I'm using 10 speed. I am using 10 speed (Deore 11-36). I put on the spacer, the cassette and tightened it down. While there is no play between the sprockets, there seems to be a slight play...if I put my thumb between the largest sprocket and the spokes, and push straight out from the wheel on the backside of the largest sprocket, there is a bit of give. My other wheelset (WTB, stock on the bike) also has a 10sp cassette and when I do this same test there is no play/give. I took it to a shop and they looked it over, checking for play between the sprockets and there was none, but he did notice what I was saying and said it was fine (as it was very minor, and otherwise everything else seemed fine), and likely a natural thing with that freehub body (i.e., I presume it's the freehub and some 'softness' to it?, not installation of the cassette with provided spacer).

1) Would inserting another thin spacer help at all (I wasn't going to bother, but if someone's had this experience and that removed the play, I would try it)
2) Has someone noticed this with certain freehub bodies, and anything I should do about it?

To be honest I'm going to just ride it as is and if I don't notice anything 'off', I won't worry about it...but thought I would ask here because I always get good advice :-)

shelbyfv

I've noticed a slight movement with some combos even when everything is assembled correctly. I agree with the shop, don't worry about it. On the other hand, you could add a few paper spacers....

SoSmellyAir

Try another 1.85 mm spacer (which is very cheap)? And if the same result, maybe the slight play is between the freehub and the wheel hub, not between the freehub and the 10 speed cassette?

Andrew R Stewart 

It's common for many free hub bodies to have a slight bearing play. So to with freewheels. Andy

dsaul

Some 10 speed cassettes come with a 1mm spacer for use on 8/9/10 speed hubs. On an 11 speed hub, you need the 1.85 + the 1mm spacer to use the same 10 speed cassette.

Iride01 

It really doesn't matter whether the individual cogs move a little bit or not. All the spacers are for is to give you the correct spacing to each other and the one that goes on the free hub prior to the cassette if any is to give you the more correct chain line for the entire cassette. The lock ring tightens into the free hub and it's of no real consequence if the cassette or individual cogs moves slightly. Might just call it a self-adjustment feature because chain forces will pull or keep it in it's more ideal position.

I might be delusional, but that explanation of how all things cassette works for me.

Noonievut

Thanks for the responses. I pulled the cassette off the other wheel and it has only the same 1.85mm spacer. So I’m going to leave it be for now.

SoSmellyAir

I am not sure about the above. From what I have read here (and elsewhere), there should be no lateral play (i.e., along the axis of the cassette) from cog to cog or between any cog and the freehub. Otherwise, RD shifting would be affected.

Iride01 

I'm not claiming that any amount of play is okay. But if you add up the stack tolerances of the cassettes and spacers then to me it is conceivable that when one pushes on just one individual cog that it might appear to have too much play. Note that I said stack tolerances which might result in extra space if many of the cogs or spacers are on the smaller end of their acceptable tolerances.

For the case of the OP, I suggest that if there are no issues otherwise, they just not worry about it until it shows a functional issue with shifting or some other thing. But of course they should ensure the lock ring is tight and that they are using the correct spacer for that particular cassette/freehub combo if one is required.

HillRider

As noted, on many 11-speed freehub bodies a 10-speed cassette (only 10-speed, not 8 or 9-speed cassettes) requires the 1.85mm spacer + the 1 mm spacer included with the cassette. Check the back of the cassette you removed from another wheel to see if the 1mm spacer isn't really there in the recess behind the largest cog. That spacer can easily be "glued" in place by oil or dirt and it's easy to miss seeing it.

woodcraft

Having the cassette locked down tightly reduces notching on the freehub splines, IMO.

The recommended torque on the cassette lockring is considerably higher than you would think going by feel, lending weight to the idea that it's good to have the cassette tight.

SoSmellyAir

I am not saying that there are no manufacturing tolerances. Rather, just that those should not be detectable by touch as play if the lock ring is correctly installed.

This is what I was suggesting in my above reply to Iride01.

Troul 

Remove the 1.8 & use two 1mm spacers.

Noonievut

Curiosity got the better of me and I tried the recommendations above, it didn’t make a difference to that slight movement I mentioned.

Troul 

I'd like to see what is causing the play. Doesnt seem like a cog spacing issue if the 2mm of shims didnt cause for any lesser wiggle.

sean.hwy

is something like this worth buying? 20 pieces for $11. It does not have the common shimano 1.85 though. which is kind of strange.

shelbyfv

I think this has been explained in post #4.

KerryIrons

In fact, it does. Not for shifting, but because if the cogs are actually moving back and forth on the freehub body, they are going to chew it up fairly quickly. It is very unlikely that the OP is experiencing cogs moving on the freehub but actually bearing play in the freehub.

Noonievut

Im not experiencing this at all, zero play between sprockets and shifting etc is fine

tFUnK

If anything, this.