So a spoke snapped on my rear CF wheel today while climbing...
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So a spoke snapped on my rear CF wheel today while climbing...
I was climbing a steep hill (good amount of stress on the drive-train) when I heard a loud noise in the rear. I initially thought my chain had skipped a gear on the cassette, but I didn't feel anything so I knew it was something else. After a few more kms, I looked at my rear wheel and saw it was misaligned so I stopped and saw that a spoke was missing on the non-drive side. I turned around & went looking, but didn't find it. I guess it flew away when it snapped. A part of the spoke went inside the rim though and is stuck in there. The good news is that it didn't get stuck in the drive-train and didn't mess my derailleur.
I know this stuff happens, but I really thought these wheels were bulletproof (Giant SLR1, 32mm). I mean, it's not like I stepped in a pothole or anything so the spoke must have been either previously weakened due to a hit or at a different tension (looser?) than the rest. My bike is 1 year old and has roughly 5000kms on it. I ride in areas where pavement is in good condition and it's not used to commute at all. I am a little disappointed by the fact that a spoke snapped after such usage, but I am not sure if I should be or not.
Are there wheel gurus out here that could help me understanding what happened? I would be interesting into getting a few opinions since I don't know much about wheels.
I know this stuff happens, but I really thought these wheels were bulletproof (Giant SLR1, 32mm). I mean, it's not like I stepped in a pothole or anything so the spoke must have been either previously weakened due to a hit or at a different tension (looser?) than the rest. My bike is 1 year old and has roughly 5000kms on it. I ride in areas where pavement is in good condition and it's not used to commute at all. I am a little disappointed by the fact that a spoke snapped after such usage, but I am not sure if I should be or not.
Are there wheel gurus out here that could help me understanding what happened? I would be interesting into getting a few opinions since I don't know much about wheels.
Last edited by eduskator; 07-15-20 at 06:10 AM.
#2
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I was climbing a steep hill (good amount of stress on the drive-train) when I heard a loud noise in the rear. I initially thought my chain had skipped a gear on the cassette, but I didn't feel anything so I knew it was something else. After a few more kms, I looked at my rear wheel and saw it was misaligned so I stopped and saw that a spoke was missing on the drive-train side. I turned around & went looking, but didn't find it. I guess it flew away when it snapped. A part of the spoke went inside the rim though and is stuck in there. The good news is that it didn't get stuck in the drive-train and didn't mess my derailleur.
I know this stuff happens, but I really thought these wheels were bulletproof (Giant SLR1, 32mm). I mean, it's not like I stepped in a pothole or anything so the spoke must have been either previously weakened due to a hit or at a different tension (looser?) than the rest. My bike is 1 year old and has roughly 5000kms on it. I ride in areas where pavement is in good condition and it's not used to commute at all. I am a little disappointed by the fact that a spoke snapped after such usage, but I am not sure if I should be or not.
Are there wheel gurus out here that could help me understanding what happened? I would be interesting into getting a few opinions since I don't know much about wheels.
I know this stuff happens, but I really thought these wheels were bulletproof (Giant SLR1, 32mm). I mean, it's not like I stepped in a pothole or anything so the spoke must have been either previously weakened due to a hit or at a different tension (looser?) than the rest. My bike is 1 year old and has roughly 5000kms on it. I ride in areas where pavement is in good condition and it's not used to commute at all. I am a little disappointed by the fact that a spoke snapped after such usage, but I am not sure if I should be or not.
Are there wheel gurus out here that could help me understanding what happened? I would be interesting into getting a few opinions since I don't know much about wheels.
#3
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Spokes break, that could happen on any wheel due to fatigue. A well-built wheel distributes fatigue evenly and has a better lifespan than a poorly built one. Do you have a pic of the remaining spoke?
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For the broken spoke, unfortunately no! It flew off when it snapped, but I'll have a better idea on where it snapped when I'll remove the remaining part that's stuck between the rim & tape. I have a feeling it broke where it tightens inside the rim.
Last edited by eduskator; 07-15-20 at 06:15 AM.
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It happens. Also, aren't you a bigger guy, at least in compared to wispy roadies? Stuff gets stressed.
Take the wheel to the shop, have them look at it. I would assume that it's got at least a two year warranty, if not lifetime. Just an FYI, though, when I popped a spoke on my Reynold's last year, for it to be covered under warranty, they wanted to rebuild it, not just replace the spoke and double-check tension. IOW, I had to be without it for about a week (two way shipping plus time in the shop).
Take the wheel to the shop, have them look at it. I would assume that it's got at least a two year warranty, if not lifetime. Just an FYI, though, when I popped a spoke on my Reynold's last year, for it to be covered under warranty, they wanted to rebuild it, not just replace the spoke and double-check tension. IOW, I had to be without it for about a week (two way shipping plus time in the shop).
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If the bike is under a year old, it should be under warranty. If not, it's still not very expensive to have a spoke replaced...But then be sure to have ALL of the spokes checked for proper tension.
Something similar happened to me once on an almost-new bike. (it had about 2000 miles). Manufacturer replaced the spoke and checked everything else out, and it's been fine for another 20,000 miles or so.
Something similar happened to me once on an almost-new bike. (it had about 2000 miles). Manufacturer replaced the spoke and checked everything else out, and it's been fine for another 20,000 miles or so.
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It happens. Also, aren't you a bigger guy, at least in compared to wispy roadies? Stuff gets stressed.
Take the wheel to the shop, have them look at it. I would assume that it's got at least a two year warranty, if not lifetime. Just an FYI, though, when I popped a spoke on my Reynold's last year, for it to be covered under warranty, they wanted to rebuild it, not just replace the spoke and double-check tension. IOW, I had to be without it for about a week (two way shipping plus time in the shop).
Take the wheel to the shop, have them look at it. I would assume that it's got at least a two year warranty, if not lifetime. Just an FYI, though, when I popped a spoke on my Reynold's last year, for it to be covered under warranty, they wanted to rebuild it, not just replace the spoke and double-check tension. IOW, I had to be without it for about a week (two way shipping plus time in the shop).
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Thanks for the tip. I'm heading there shortly. It would make sense to having to rebuild it completely. Will talk with the manager to see what can be done. I am close to 185 lbs right now. A little heavier than the average joe, but at this time of year, I lost most of the accumulated holiday season belly fat though
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Super. I'll go with the least expensive option as long as it's reliable. Anyhow, the Pro 0 2021 is already on my mind and my 30th birthday is coming soon
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I know this stuff happens, but I really thought these wheels were bulletproof (Giant SLR1, 32mm). I mean, it's not like I stepped in a pothole or anything so the spoke must have been either previously weakened due to a hit or at a different tension (looser?) than the rest. My bike is 1 year old and has roughly 5000kms on it. I ride in areas where pavement is in good condition and it's not used to commute at all. I am a little disappointed by the fact that a spoke snapped after such usage, but I am not sure if I should be or not.
Are there wheel gurus out here that could help me understanding what happened? I would be interesting into getting a few opinions since I don't know much about wheels.
Are there wheel gurus out here that could help me understanding what happened? I would be interesting into getting a few opinions since I don't know much about wheels.
In machine built wheels, parts of the elbows have high average stress because they were never taken past their elastic limit.
Spokes unload passing the bottom of the wheel about 750 times a mile, with stress cycle magnitude dependent on rider weight. Rear spokes also see tension variation twice per crank rotation from sinusoidal variation in pedaling force normal to the crank arms.
With each spoke slightly different the failures are spread out in time like popcorn kernels opening - one, a few, most of them, a few, and any remaining stragglers.
With heavy riders this can start in a few thousand miles.
Conversely, when you take the time to properly correct spoke lines and stress relieve wheels the spokes can last 300,000 miles or more.
If you're lucky you had one defective spoke. Otherwise you've used up most of their fatigue life, and will have problems until the spokes are replaced in the failing half of the wheel (drive side or non drive side).
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 07-15-20 at 12:07 PM.
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Good explanation, makes sense. I hope it was only a defect. Covered not under warranty, I will be a happy camper if the fix solves the problem permanently.
#12
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If another spoke breaks it's time for rebuild/replace. This is not uncommon for machine built house brands one year old.
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Makes me regret not having bought a commuter/gravel bike last winter when I had the chance to. 2 bikes is better than 1, that's for sure!
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Yep, I'll cross my fingers. I just don't like losing my bike for a week or so, especially not at this time of year. It normally takes no longer than a day to repair a spoke, but all shops around my place are busy as hell due to the current situation.
Makes me regret not having bought a commuter/gravel bike last winter when I had the chance to. 2 bikes is better than 1, that's for sure!
Makes me regret not having bought a commuter/gravel bike last winter when I had the chance to. 2 bikes is better than 1, that's for sure!
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I know, pretty easy to tight it to the proper specs by just making sure the rim gets straight again, but since I needed to go to the LBS to get a spoke, I left it there & asked to check all of them while they're there. It'll save me the hassle of having to sit the TL tire again on this non cooperative rim. This combination of TL tire & rim is not user friendly at all.
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Always this parrot internet route.. comic. Sometimes.. yes. But more often than not the 1st replacement was done haphazardly.. still need to get said wheel ROUND again w balanced tension. Shops want the 20-25 bucks for 15 minutes and the buck spoke.. that route means more breakage.
OP did not state what rear lacing was... Giant is like all other them.. more on promises than results.
And.. new computer built wheels are hard to beat when examined closely. Yet the machine produces the tolerances programed... at times lacking the original goals.
#17
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Always this parrot internet route.. comic. Sometimes.. yes. But more often than not the 1st replacement was done haphazardly.. still need to get said wheel ROUND again w balanced tension. Shops want the 20-25 bucks for 15 minutes and the buck spoke.. that route means more breakage.
OP did not state what rear lacing was... Giant is like all other them.. more on promises than results.
And.. new computer built wheels are hard to beat when examined closely. Yet the machine produces the tolerances programed... at times lacking the original goals.
OP did not state what rear lacing was... Giant is like all other them.. more on promises than results.
And.. new computer built wheels are hard to beat when examined closely. Yet the machine produces the tolerances programed... at times lacking the original goals.
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Yep, I'll cross my fingers. I just don't like losing my bike for a week or so, especially not at this time of year. It normally takes no longer than a day to repair a spoke, but all shops around my place are busy as hell due to the current situation.
Makes me regret not having bought a commuter/gravel bike last winter when I had the chance to. 2 bikes is better than 1, that's for sure!
Makes me regret not having bought a commuter/gravel bike last winter when I had the chance to. 2 bikes is better than 1, that's for sure!
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Spokes will break, regardless. My carbon wheels have the standard J hook spokes. A year ago, on the two year old wheels I had a rear spoke break while I was out of the saddle climbing. It was a very inexpensive repair. I am surprised that you actually lost the entire spoke! There should have been part of it at the threaded nipple. It likely broke at the J bend.
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Spokes will break, regardless. My carbon wheels have the standard J hook spokes. A year ago, on the two year old wheels I had a rear spoke break while I was out of the saddle climbing. It was a very inexpensive repair. I am surprised that you actually lost the entire spoke! There should have been part of it at the threaded nipple. It likely broke at the J bend.
Spokes will break, regardless. My carbon wheels have the standard J hook spokes. A year ago, on the two year old wheels I had a rear spoke break while I was out of the saddle climbing. It was a very inexpensive repair. I am surprised that you actually lost the entire spoke! There should have been part of it at the threaded nipple. It likely broke at the J bend.
Last edited by eduskator; 07-16-20 at 09:38 AM.
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J bend breakage.. usually the inbound spoke.. elbows have zero flange support. Using butted spokes w washers to tighten that gap significant improvement in durability.
But yes.. spokes do break. Thing is.. get the replacement done by someone who knows the game.
This one I'll toss out... the keyboard queens will spend the afternoon on it. All RADIAL spokes rear.. laced outbound. Flange contact/support. The booook reading queens will whine NO torque..
Last edited by Aladin; 07-16-20 at 10:24 AM.
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#25
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A) The forces on the rim during braking would be the same, regardless of lacing pattern (I think)
B) As the wheel continues rotating forward (resisting the deceleration at the disc rotor) a J-bend spoke would rotate slightly in the hub flange, causing more serious wear on the flange holes.
C) B) works in reverse, as well. During accelerations, the hub will spin up before the rim and there will be some rotation at the J-bend. Maybe a huge spoke tension could fix this though.
D) If the hub flange were beefy enough, radial disc could be doable? Could someone invent a radial straight pull hub that would be able to handle this better?
Last edited by LAJ; 07-17-20 at 07:21 PM. Reason: Clean Up