deux jambes

It’s by no means wrenching, but since I finally have all the parts needed for the build, it’s a step towards that direction.

I’ve tried to avoid this drastic step by taking softer measures to address rust. But while there is no structural comprise, the extent of the rust warrants a repaint. It covered enough area, and was embedded deep enough that’s it’s even lifted the underlying chrome in some spots.

Once I finish sanding it out the problem areas, I’ll chemically strip the frame, and cover it in primer. I’m really anxious to build this bike and ride it, so I’m calling it too late in the season to give it a proper color coat. I’ll have to look forward to that next year.

Nemosengineer 

Well I guess the Teledyne is back in rotation, after more than a year I finally found a set of long reach CLB Professional brakes in factory gold (I know too much bling but sometimes you take what you can get) on Ebay and that started the project again.



The Hi-E wheelset is at my wheel guy for the full spa treatment so this 46 year old wheel set will be safe but still insane, upon there return a new set of Vittoria Corsa G skin wall 23mm tubulars will be fitted.



: Mke

noglider 

My new daughter in law is learning to enjoy what our family enjoys. After all, she even took our family name. My kid (who wants to be called my kid, not my daughter or son) bought her this 1980s Ironman with the small front wheel. It's a fantastic replica of the old Terry design. Daughter in law doesn't like drop handlebars, so I put on upright bars for her. She left the bike here and will be back to ride it around here. I sent her the pictures, and she loves it but hasn't tried it yet in this form. I took a little test ride, and it's like riding a kid's bike for me, with my knees hitting the handlebars. Interestingly, she's unsure of herself on a bike but has no trouble whatsoever with the toe clips. I told her I would remove them for her, but she's fine with them.

Working on the bike, I was impressed with the high quality of the 105 components. Some components WANT to be worked on.

Eventually, I will figure out which shifters to put on the handlebars. I think I have some 3x7 twist shifters I can install, if I can just find them. Upright bars and down-tube shifters are not a great mix.

bark_eater 

Pulled the Koga Miyata down, threw a temporary seat on, cleaned the chain, pumped the tires, and took it around the block. I figure I'll ride it a bit before I take it apart again. I'm converting it to drop bar's and going to put it on a bit of a diet with lighter tires and lighter racks. I'm keeping the frame lock and dynamo lighting set up because the gagetry still appeals to me.

MaxDB

Today my commuter got some new shoes, rearwheel, cassette and chain. Recently I've changed the old cantis in the back to v-brakes as well.

I had some issues with seating the Michelin World Tours tho... Tried soap, overinflating, lots of manipulating etc but didn't get the bead to seat perfect all around. Any tips?

stardognine

I finally got my BB changed yesterday, on the ‘86 High Sierra. I was trying to be careful of that fixed cup, on the old cup & spindle unit, that it wasn’t frozen on or something, but getting into a shop takes an appointment, and I got tired of waiting. 🙄😉

Turns out there was no need to worry, the old one came right off, with not much effort, using a 12” Crescent wrench. 😎

The new BB is a UN-55, which is actually a nicer one, in this day & age, for square taper. The old one definitely had some corrosion issues, lol, but I also still have some rubbing to troubleshoot. It’s just a part-time rub, like old grease wanting changed out. Gotta be either the RD pulleys, pedals, or hubs. 🤔

52telecaster

upright bars and barcons mix well. V.o. has a few with 23.8 diameter.

52telecaster

Kind of on a 650b conversion bent lately. This is my falcon i enjoyed so much when i bought it last year until a truck ran me into a curb and bent the fork. I straightened the fork at work, then decided to try the 650b thing, which required really long brakes as this bike was built for 27s. The front is a tektro 900. The back an 800. These dont have quick releases but they do have excellent stopping power. The derailleurs are shimano rsx.

The whole thing is pretty nice. I will eventually put lights on it and my trailer hitch.

Revracer

Worked on another set of fenders for the Mrs Raleigh Grand Sports. They are VO Snakeskin with 38mm GravelKings w/ latex tubes. Seems to be room all around, but still trying to find the right handlebar fit for some distance riding.

noglider 

@Revracer, oh my!

deux jambes

mattk42

Been wrenching on this GT Tequesta I picked up a while ago on Craigslist. Not for me, but for shorter folks to ride. Latest hope is for introducing my girlfriend to mountain biking. I never really got it fully tuned when I bought it. Shifting was never that great, the brakes were set up kind of mediocre. It's pretty rough around the edges but altogether seems solid.

But, now it's ready for action! New grips, brakes set up nice and strong with new Kool Stop salmons and fresh cables (thankfully I've gotten much better at setting up smooth post cantis), shifting issues resolved (new cables, dialing in limit screws). Crunchy rear bearings overhauled, front adjusted.

The goofiest shifting issue was a chunking, clicking sound in the lowest gear combo. On closer inspection, the derailleur needs to be at a steeper angle to clear the gear. But, the b screw is bottomed out. Probably owing to the mega range freewheel. Yes, a 7 speed freewheel. Unfortunately, I can't easily swap that out. So, attempted the longer b screw approach. Unfortunately, the screw stop on the frame is kinda small, so the screw was going to miss the stop before being adjusted appropriately. So a combo fix of the longer screw and the put it in backwards fixes! Thankfully I got allen screws, which have a larger head than the one in before, and it seems to contact the frame stop about halfway along it's length - so it should be good and secure! Screw doesn't need to be that long, but shouldn't get in the way I think.

Note to those doing the reverse screw approach, don't mess with removing the derailleur! Just remove the b screw and rotate the derailleur far enough, clockwise, till you can thread the screw in. Same goes for adjusting the screw in this orientation. Just rotate the derailleur body, no need to remove the derailleur, at least in my experience.


GT Tequesta. Snazzy new grips.

A modified approach. Why so small a screw stop on the dropout?

stardognine

I finally got my roller-cam brakes off & re-greased the posts, plus I changed one of my brake levers, and greased those pivot washers. Fresh brake cables & housings, and everything’s peachy. 😎 These XC Sport levers definitely need you to re-use the housing ferrule, on the brake cable housing, so don’t lose them. 🙄😉

I didn’t do the shifty cables yet, but did adjust the front derailleur a bit, and that fixed that rubbing I mentioned. ✌️

Medium Size Dog

A few posts back, Nemosengineer put up a photo with a Hi-E hub exactly like I have that I got from maker Harlan Meyer in Nashville in the 70's. It was laced up exactly the same way. Sadly, it is cracked and had to be replaced. I still have the matching front hub on the 70's Weinmann rim I rebuilt with the original 1 cross pattern. After 45 years and thousands of miles that sealed bearing is so friction free that the weight of a 1"x6 screw taped to the rim is enough to off-set the balance, roll to the bottom and stop.

morrberg

So many bikes and so little time, currently working on a Miyata On/Off road runner and transforming it to a great bikepacking bike.
But i also got a Kettler Strato frame that is itching to be built, but finding Shimano AX components at reasonable price is hard, and a Wilier Trestina Ramata that want some service before i use it.

daverup 

Recently picked up a 1999 Georgena Terry Symmetry for my wife. This one was on my local craigslist, where hardly anything interesting ever shows up.
It needs an overhaul, which is underway. Shimano 105, RSX brifters, 650 wheels. It's a tiny thing and only weighs 23 lbs.
Ad picture since I didn't take any before I started tearing it down..

capnjonny 

I just finished this Nishiki Olympic Mixte and am taking it to the shop tomorrow for them to sell. When I brought it home I was unimpressed with the color. It looked like dirty brown mustard. After I stripped the steel wheels and the drop bars and stem shifters it started to grow on me. By the time I had completely stripped it and gave everything a good clean I was in love. You can tell a bike has not been ridden when the crank spindle has absolutely no wear on it. The 40-52 tooth Maxi chain rings looked new, and the paint had almost no damage. Just a few pin holes.

I was starting to get a Serengeti vibe, the paint reminded me of a lion or leopard, and I almost painted spots on the frame. I did put a cool Bianchi saddle with leopard spots on it which I had been dying to use on a build. This was the time.

Even though it came with a nice Shimano 600 derailleur I decided to kit it out with Suntour bits, including a Vgt long cage rear and Spirt front Der, and Suntour adjustable ratchet thumb shifters. The original Diacompe center pulls were like new but I swapped in some Coolstop pads. For wheels I used a 1 1/4 x 27 at the back and a 1 x 27 in front , both with sealed bearings and stainless spokes.

New 1 1/8 x 27 gum walls from our huge stash of them and a new adjustable stem and new 2" riser bars with some custom brown grips completed the package

Oh, I almost forgot. I put a 6 speed Suntour 13-30 tooth freewheel on it . lots of range for hills or flats.

Enjoy





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52telecaster

​​​​​​​wow, someone will have a very pretty ride.

Mr. 66

Thar she blows!

Mr. 66

I approve this this message even the grips! That would be a Mrs. 66 in Seattle to go with the Mr.'s. I like the Nishiki so much I put the Brooks saddle and a custom leather bar wrappings.




Note, Solvent will take the graphics off the saddle if you don't like Bianchi on it.

SJX426 

I have been having fun learning about 2nd gen Ergo's. I purchased two sets one day apart.

The first set were Chorus and it was a desperate move to get the De Rosa project completed. It has had a couple of issues including bottom bracket selection, brake mounting issues, FD not correct, etc. The last item to buy were a set of Ergos. The Chorus set looked OK on the pictures from the seller but after receiving them, I was disappointed in the amount of damage covered by the hoods. Although the right lever worked, it only worked through the first 6-7 positions using the back lever. Beyond that the lever worked but the thumb lever would return the selection all the way back to position one. Tear down time. Found the G spring retainer was broken in two places. I decided it was appropriate to examine the left as well. The body was dramatically damaged from being ground down. Parts were arded and arrived yesterday. Oh and the seller refunded about 35%.

The second set was offered by a very generous BF'r who sold me a set of Record with the right side in parts. Included were new hoods and G springs. Cleaned both sides up, lubed, assembled and they work very well without being cables.

Needless to say, i am well experienced with how to disassemble and assemble 2nd gen Ergo's. The only difference between Chorus and Record appear to be the nomenclature on the levers. Both sets have ball bearing for the pivot shafts. A replacement of the left body came with "QS Micron" on the front. it is identical to the "BB System" body. I think the 2nd get bodies are all the same but the internals may have changed.

Put this pic in "What came in the post..."
P1030435, on Flickr

Bagged all the parts for the Chorus since the Records are going on the bike. I need to decide what to do with the Chorus set. Spare parts for now.

natterberry 

Tan leather just wouldn’t do.

janthenat

Tinkering with my wife's Schwinn Wayfarer...

• New bottom bracket conversion kit & Sunlite SL55 68x103 square taper
• New FSA Felice Gimondi 39t 170 single speed crankset (down from 44t)
  • a little tight between the crank arm and chainring for the chainguard bit it worked
• New White Free Agent BMX pedals
• New SunRace 7sp trigger shifter (from twist/grip shift)
• New stitched grips
• New ding-ding bell
• New TwoFish water bottle mount

52telecaster

why not if she likes the bike!

capnjonny 

60's Viking cycles racing bike

I love my job.

I went in to the Bike Exchange this morning to help set up for the Wednesday senior citizens bike fixing event. We just started up again last week, with extreme distancing working outdoors with a 10 person limit. I went to drop off the Finished Nishiki Mixte seen above as well as the French Mysterie bike and the 72 Botteccia I have been holding till there were people who could do quality control on them and put them somewhere safe.

As soon as I walked into the back of the shop where newly acquired bikes are stored I spotted the Viking and a nice blue Trophe de France mixte.

Obviously they had to come home with me . Here are a few snaps of the Viking . There is a Wikipedia article about the company , which was in Wolverhampton England from 1908 to 1967 , so this example is at the latest, from the 60's.

It has a mix of bits , some probably original and some definately later . in no particular order:
Suntour VtLuxe rear der. CompV front
Shimano 600 side pull brakes with Lambert levers
Lambert down tube shifters
lambert stem
shimano 600 head set
Sr seat post
Sugino VP crank
5 spd freewheel
Performance rear and Mavic front rims
Handle bars are English and ones I have never seen before.
Most of the decals are foil and barely readable . The one on the down tube says something about 1st place world championship , I think.

Anyone want to comment. What would the original equipment have been? This does not look like a high end bike but might have some value left original. I don't know. Thoughts please.