Getting closer to my grail Trek 720
#26
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I have a 1982 720, also a grail. My plan for this is to get it aligned and cold-set for 130 mm, and build it for 700.
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I've seen Shimano XT MC-70 and M732 brakes both working with the pads at acceptable angles. I was very surprised to see that XTR M900 brakes did not work.
1985 Trek 720 with XC Pro brakes:
IMG_0551 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
720FrontRack by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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I'm using Suntour XC Pro brakes.
I've seen Shimano XT MC-70 and M732 brakes both working with the pads at acceptable angles. I was very surprised to see that XTR M900 brakes did not work.
1985 Trek 720 with XC Pro brakes:
IMG_0551 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
720FrontRack by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
I've seen Shimano XT MC-70 and M732 brakes both working with the pads at acceptable angles. I was very surprised to see that XTR M900 brakes did not work.
1985 Trek 720 with XC Pro brakes:
IMG_0551 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
720FrontRack by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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#32
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Most modern brakes are designed around a modern standard of much wider distances between canti posts and don’t have the adjustability to work, even with 27s.
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#33
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I’ll play with the straddle cable lengths and height of the cable stop later and I appreciate the other model suggestions.
I started on on the drive train yesterday. The XT RD body arm extended too close to the cassette with the wheel all the way back in the dropout so for the first time in my life I’m actually making use of the micro adjusters. The XCM FD does not swing out far enough even though my crank is very snug to the frame. I tried a STX and that also didn’t have enough range. I think I’ll hunt down and buy a Suntour XCD since that is what is on my Expedition with the same crank and it works great. Otherwise probably an older Deore usually works on nearly anything. Any other suggestions for a 720?
I started on on the drive train yesterday. The XT RD body arm extended too close to the cassette with the wheel all the way back in the dropout so for the first time in my life I’m actually making use of the micro adjusters. The XCM FD does not swing out far enough even though my crank is very snug to the frame. I tried a STX and that also didn’t have enough range. I think I’ll hunt down and buy a Suntour XCD since that is what is on my Expedition with the same crank and it works great. Otherwise probably an older Deore usually works on nearly anything. Any other suggestions for a 720?
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With 18 inch chainstays, you might as well use the micro adjusters. It’s not like you’re worried about your feet hitting the panniers.I’m surprised you’re having issues with a classic touring derailleur. A sun tour Xc sport can handle a lot of chain. So can a huret duopar and it’s not a bad derailleur but you do have to ease up when shifting it.
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A 720 is a must have for any collection. Probably the most comfortable touring bike on the planet. Love the long wheelbase and stays. Laidback headtube. I'm having a hard time finding one in a 24inch in good shape. GREAT bike!
JJ
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The CR 720s are kind of notorious for not working on older bikes with narrower distances between the posts.
Most modern brakes are designed around a modern standard of much wider distances between canti posts and don’t have the adjustability to work, even with 27s.
Most modern brakes are designed around a modern standard of much wider distances between canti posts and don’t have the adjustability to work, even with 27s.
#37
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I started on on the drive train yesterday. The XT RD body arm extended too close to the cassette with the wheel all the way back in the dropout so for the first time in my life I’m actually making use of the micro adjusters. The XCM FD does not swing out far enough even though my crank is very snug to the frame. I tried a STX and that also didn’t have enough range. I think I’ll hunt down and buy a Suntour XCD since that is what is on my Expedition with the same crank and it works great. Otherwise probably an older Deore usually works on nearly anything. Any other suggestions for a 720?
My absolute favorite would be the Suntour XC 3 pulley (that's plain ol' "XC" not XC Sport or anything... just XC). It shifted marvelously, it handles tons of chain, Pastor Bob got it to take a 38T cog, it looked cool, and it's the ONLY derailleur or individual bike part that got a comment from anyone out in the wild. (not in a bike shop).
Otherwise, Suntour XC Pro, Shimano XT M735, Suntour V GT-Luxe ... those are the ones that stand out to me.
The ones I didn't like were Suntour Mountech 2nd gen (it was OK, but a bit sloppy- it was a really long cage) and Suntour Cyclone GT and Cyclone MII GT. There was nothing really wrong with the Cyclones- they just seemed so gracile and dainty on that bike- but in my mind that equated to "fragile." I did not like the Duopar. I know there's people that have ridden more miles than I could ever dream on Duopars- but I've only had trouble with the two I have.
As far as front derailleur... MOUNTECH. Most badass awesome FD ever made. Way behind that- XT M735. Sachs/Huret Pilot. Simplex Super LJ.
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#38
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On the road
I got my shifting figured out and got in a short check out ride today. Sweet handling bike that is comfortable and cuts through the air quite well. It weighs in at 25 lbs without the rear rack. It will be a fun one for some longer rides.
The Technomic looks crazy high but I’m getting old and like the height. May work them down later.
I hoped to use my Acorn seat bag but the Pro doesn’t have any loops☹️
Love the vintage decals on it.
With the rear rack
My shifting issues were probably bar end set up related but I wound up buying a NOS XCD FD and using it. Shifts great and as a bonus the clamp pretty much matches the frame.
The Technomic looks crazy high but I’m getting old and like the height. May work them down later.
I hoped to use my Acorn seat bag but the Pro doesn’t have any loops☹️
Love the vintage decals on it.
With the rear rack
My shifting issues were probably bar end set up related but I wound up buying a NOS XCD FD and using it. Shifts great and as a bonus the clamp pretty much matches the frame.
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#41
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I got my shifting figured out and got in a short check out ride today. Sweet handling bike that is comfortable and cuts through the air quite well. It weighs in at 25 lbs without the rear rack. It will be a fun one for some longer rides.
The Technomic looks crazy high but I’m getting old and like the height. May work them down later.
My shifting issues were probably bar end set up related but I wound up buying a NOS XCD FD and using it. Shifts great and as a bonus the clamp pretty much matches the frame.
The Technomic looks crazy high but I’m getting old and like the height. May work them down later.
My shifting issues were probably bar end set up related but I wound up buying a NOS XCD FD and using it. Shifts great and as a bonus the clamp pretty much matches the frame.
My Technomic looks like it's dangerous high- but mine's actually slammed. Of course, I have a 21' bike with a short head tube- so even slammed, it looks super out there.
Was it a matter of setting it up with the bar end in the middle of the range and then setting the chain up on the middle ring?
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#42
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Slid forward to avoid the chain interfering with the RD inner arm.
The locking ring pieces of the shift levers got moved around when I had the screw out so I could set the levers inside the bar ends. I made the mistake of trying to get them set up with the notches locked when the levers were in the full down positions. Finally realized you have to start at the full up position or you don’t get enough cable movement to move the derailleurs their full range. It shifts like a dream now. I really like the XT in the rear. It’s just so positive and right on with every shift.
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#43
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l’m not aware of any differences in the tubing or geometry between those years models but I can’t imagine a more forgiving ride than this one has. I only wish I could take advantage of the extra 1 1/2 cm in wheelbase length I’m losing by having to set the rear wheel forward in the dropouts.
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#44
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Whatever. Here's the bike and me in South Carolina, where I went to see the eclipse a few years ago. The frame has been powder coated ( I never did like the original color).
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I have an '82 and I would gladly swap it for an '84. I would have bought an '84 if they were available when I got mine, but (alas) in the spring of 1983 you could get an '82 but the '84's were not available. Unfair as that may be, that is the hand I was dealt.
Whatever. Here's the bike and me in South Carolina, where I went to see the eclipse a few years ago. The frame has been powder coated ( I never did like the original color).
Whatever. Here's the bike and me in South Carolina, where I went to see the eclipse a few years ago. The frame has been powder coated ( I never did like the original color).
So '82 versus '84: I'm assuming the main functional difference is the braze-ons for canti brakes? My frame needs alignment and refinishing, and I might build it up 650b. I'd probably go for center-pull braze-ons, a front-derailleur braze-on, cold-setting to 130 mm, and ... attachments to facilitate a front rack, a rear saddle-bag support, and light attachments. I'd probably go with a hub dyno or a modern rim dyno.
What other advantages of the 1984 frame are important to you?
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Just the brake bosses. Before I had mine powder coated I seriously considered all the options you mention. I decided, in the end, that there were no modifications to the frame that would really make a difference, so I didn't bother. I have the original Jim Blackburn racks that the frame was supposedly built for (which is strange, since they don't fit very well), to which I added a lowrider rack for front panniers. The bike is set up for old school bike touring, as designed, and I figured there wasn't much advantage to changing that.
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#47
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l’m not aware of any differences in the tubing or geometry between those years models but I can’t imagine a more forgiving ride than this one has. I only wish I could take advantage of the extra 1 1/2 cm in wheelbase length I’m losing by having to set the rear wheel forward in the dropouts.
snip . . .
snip . . .
But there is a tubing difference. The '84 720 spec'd 531 ST for the main triangle which would have made the bike a bit stiffer. I toured across the US on a '83 720 and thought the ride was truly excellent particularly under a load.
#48
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Rudi, that's a great pic!
So '82 versus '84: I'm assuming the main functional difference is the braze-ons for canti brakes? My frame needs alignment and refinishing, and I might build it up 650b. I'd probably go for center-pull braze-ons, a front-derailleur braze-on, cold-setting to 130 mm, and ... attachments to facilitate a front rack, a rear saddle-bag support, and light attachments. I'd probably go with a hub dyno or a modern rim dyno.
What other advantages of the 1984 frame are important to you?
So '82 versus '84: I'm assuming the main functional difference is the braze-ons for canti brakes? My frame needs alignment and refinishing, and I might build it up 650b. I'd probably go for center-pull braze-ons, a front-derailleur braze-on, cold-setting to 130 mm, and ... attachments to facilitate a front rack, a rear saddle-bag support, and light attachments. I'd probably go with a hub dyno or a modern rim dyno.
What other advantages of the 1984 frame are important to you?
Just the brake bosses. Before I had mine powder coated I seriously considered all the options you mention. I decided, in the end, that there were no modifications to the frame that would really make a difference, so I didn't bother. I have the original Jim Blackburn racks that the frame was supposedly built for (which is strange, since they don't fit very well), to which I added a lowrider rack for front panniers. The bike is set up for old school bike touring, as designed, and I figured there wasn't much advantage to changing that.
#49
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Great job @ badger_biker
For those looking for a similar Trek, here's one ready to ride. Not mine but looks in great shape.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...353488632.html
For those looking for a similar Trek, here's one ready to ride. Not mine but looks in great shape.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...353488632.html
#50
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Great job @ badger_biker
For those looking for a similar Trek, here's one ready to ride. Not mine but looks in great shape.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...353488632.html
For those looking for a similar Trek, here's one ready to ride. Not mine but looks in great shape.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...353488632.html
Interesting on the pics in the link how the cables were set up under the BB. I wound up buying a Campy cable guide and bypassing the frame grooves. It leaves my cables a bit skewed going down the down tube but everything works fine.
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