Want to start Road cycling where to start? which bike?
#26
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Well The two bikes that I posted so those are more of upright road bikes? Should be alot quicker being full carbon. I ride a Hybrid Trek Dual Sport 3 mostly on the greenways here which consists of Dirt, payment and gravel so my DS 3 has no problem. Well what position is the bikes I posted? I want to clock more speed and distance. I also want ride in groups and being able to keep up.
These are just generalities -- so it's important that you go by your own feeling of good fit -- but going faster and going longer distances are usually at odds when it comes to ideal bike geometry.
To go faster, overcoming aerodynamic drag (on flats and descents) and gravity (uphill) are the two most important factors, so a bike meant for those purposes would minimize weight and/or be set up such that both it and the rider atop punch the smallest hole through the air.
To go farther, comfort is key, and most of us aren't flexible enough to hold a very low position on the bike for long, which is why they tend to be more upright and have allowances for wider tires (often easier to accomodate with disc brakes, which are heavier than rim brakes), wider gearing to go uphill without killing our knees, and may be less stiff or snappy to hard acceleration in exchange for smoother tracking and more vibration absorption.
There are going to be a wide range of bikes at group rides, so it's really up to rider preference. And it generally is true that the more time on bike you ride, the faster you'll get, unless you never push hard (unlikely given your goals, I'm sure), so an endurance bike is a good safe choice. But not knowing your strength and flexibility, it's also possible that a racier bike like the Giant TCR and bikes from other brands (e.g., Trek Madone/Emonda, Specialized Tarmac) could fit you to a tee. If you have the time, test ride some of those just to get a feel for the difference.
#27
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If you are truly new, the only thing that matters is that you have a decent bike that fits. It's the fit that's hardest to get right from an online order when you don't really know what you are doing.
Don't try to get the best bargain with the fancy drivetrain brands on your first bike. Spend $800-$1200 at your nearest LBS and get a basic bike that fits you. If you really take to road cycling, you can buy a better bike later. An inexpensive bike that fits is 1000X better than an "Ultegra" bike that doesn't.
Don't try to get the best bargain with the fancy drivetrain brands on your first bike. Spend $800-$1200 at your nearest LBS and get a basic bike that fits you. If you really take to road cycling, you can buy a better bike later. An inexpensive bike that fits is 1000X better than an "Ultegra" bike that doesn't.
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#29
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1- Thats an absurdly great bike spec for the price.
2- More important than spec is geometry and whether the bike fits.
3- How is Motobecane still using those handlebars in 2019?!?! I am shocked they havent managed to run production out of inventory yet. Ritchey must be more than happy to keep selling that style bars for OEM bikes since the aftermarket has to be all but dry.
Its already been said, but it bears repeating- fit is more important than components once you are looking at bike shop level bikes.
2- More important than spec is geometry and whether the bike fits.
3- How is Motobecane still using those handlebars in 2019?!?! I am shocked they havent managed to run production out of inventory yet. Ritchey must be more than happy to keep selling that style bars for OEM bikes since the aftermarket has to be all but dry.
Its already been said, but it bears repeating- fit is more important than components once you are looking at bike shop level bikes.
#30
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Fit seems quite important.
Regardless, my point earlier was that fit is more important than groupset for someone starting out. A lower level group on a well fitting bike is 10x better than a high level group on an illfitting bike.
And when I say fit matters, it isnt simply if the stack and reach work- it's the geometry of the bike too. A bike must fit well for the rider and the rider's style of riding.
An onlinr road bike with a 74deg STA and 73.5deg HTA with 43mm of fork rake may fit a rider based on a general chart, but that bike may be too twitchy for the rider due to geometry.
That wouldn't be known to a beginner without either trying bikes in person or doing a good bit of deep research.
I do agree that a brand's fit chart will work most of the time, assuming the rider knows what frsme geometry they want.
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#31
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Giant classifies the Contend as an all-rounder and the Defy as endurance. I'm only going off memory right now, but the Contend is neutral and Defy is more upright.
These are just generalities -- so it's important that you go by your own feeling of good fit -- but going faster and going longer distances are usually at odds when it comes to ideal bike geometry.
To go faster, overcoming aerodynamic drag (on flats and descents) and gravity (uphill) are the two most important factors, so a bike meant for those purposes would minimize weight and/or be set up such that both it and the rider atop punch the smallest hole through the air.
To go farther, comfort is key, and most of us aren't flexible enough to hold a very low position on the bike for long, which is why they tend to be more upright and have allowances for wider tires (often easier to accomodate with disc brakes, which are heavier than rim brakes), wider gearing to go uphill without killing our knees, and may be less stiff or snappy to hard acceleration in exchange for smoother tracking and more vibration absorption.
There are going to be a wide range of bikes at group rides, so it's really up to rider preference. And it generally is true that the more time on bike you ride, the faster you'll get, unless you never push hard (unlikely given your goals, I'm sure), so an endurance bike is a good safe choice. But not knowing your strength and flexibility, it's also possible that a racier bike like the Giant TCR and bikes from other brands (e.g., Trek Madone/Emonda, Specialized Tarmac) could fit you to a tee. If you have the time, test ride some of those just to get a feel for the difference.
These are just generalities -- so it's important that you go by your own feeling of good fit -- but going faster and going longer distances are usually at odds when it comes to ideal bike geometry.
To go faster, overcoming aerodynamic drag (on flats and descents) and gravity (uphill) are the two most important factors, so a bike meant for those purposes would minimize weight and/or be set up such that both it and the rider atop punch the smallest hole through the air.
To go farther, comfort is key, and most of us aren't flexible enough to hold a very low position on the bike for long, which is why they tend to be more upright and have allowances for wider tires (often easier to accomodate with disc brakes, which are heavier than rim brakes), wider gearing to go uphill without killing our knees, and may be less stiff or snappy to hard acceleration in exchange for smoother tracking and more vibration absorption.
There are going to be a wide range of bikes at group rides, so it's really up to rider preference. And it generally is true that the more time on bike you ride, the faster you'll get, unless you never push hard (unlikely given your goals, I'm sure), so an endurance bike is a good safe choice. But not knowing your strength and flexibility, it's also possible that a racier bike like the Giant TCR and bikes from other brands (e.g., Trek Madone/Emonda, Specialized Tarmac) could fit you to a tee. If you have the time, test ride some of those just to get a feel for the difference.
I tested a Defy Advanced 1 with stock Gavia tires and Ultegra gearing and an Advanced 2 with105 and Schwalbe Racing Ralphs. Both rode comfortably, shifted well with the 1 feeling a bit faster which is probably all down to the tires, not the drive train. The things holding me back, the ugly (albeit effective) brake system, over the top branding, etc, Personal stuff, not performance. It felt good for the long rides, not races I like to do...so it still might be part of the stable by Memorial Day.
Now the reason I'm looking for a new road bike? I bought a deal online on a well spec'd carbon race bike - in my case supporting a charity auction - only to discover that at 6'1" a 56cm it is just too small. I've had to spend $$ on stems, etc. to try and get it to fit right at...the LBS. That said, I've ridden it a ton and learned a lot of what I do want so count it as a good experience. Now I've got to sink $$ in to new tires etc. or let it go to a new home and get something that actually fits.
Moral of the story: if I had to do it over again, would have bought my first roadie from my LBS.
#32
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A cursory look at the geos shows that the Defy has a longer wheelbase and more BB drop than the Contend SL, typical of endurance bikes.
#33
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Fit is everything if you plan to go on long "century" type rides
Bikes with race geos are not inherently faster than bikes with more upright geos
Carbon is not faster than steel, or aluminum
One groupo is not faster than another, it's all about the engine on top
Rider position, i.e low flat. and punching a smaller hole through the air is the difference
If you are keen, flexible,and don't mind a bit of toe overlap, a race fit is great
However, tweaking a race bike into an upright style bike is not the best route, they look goofy and are not meant to work that way
Focus on fit, saddle, bars, shoes
The latest 105 groupo is great !
Bikes with race geos are not inherently faster than bikes with more upright geos
Carbon is not faster than steel, or aluminum
One groupo is not faster than another, it's all about the engine on top
Rider position, i.e low flat. and punching a smaller hole through the air is the difference
If you are keen, flexible,and don't mind a bit of toe overlap, a race fit is great
However, tweaking a race bike into an upright style bike is not the best route, they look goofy and are not meant to work that way
Focus on fit, saddle, bars, shoes
The latest 105 groupo is great !
#35
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I was trying to say 'Amen' to what most in this thread indicate - fit and feel are more important than technical specs - especially with your first road bike. Throw your leg over the top tube of a few at the LBS and ride them. Find a salesperson who cares about establishing a long term relationship with you instead of making a quick sale. Get what feels right. An online deal may not be such a bargain in the long run.
YMMV
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Fit is everything if you plan to go on long "century" type rides
Bikes with race geos are not inherently faster than bikes with more upright geos
Carbon is not faster than steel, or aluminum
One groupo is not faster than another, it's all about the engine on top
Rider position, i.e low flat. and punching a smaller hole through the air is the difference
If you are keen, flexible,and don't mind a bit of toe overlap, a race fit is great
However, tweaking a race bike into an upright style bike is not the best route, they look goofy and are not meant to work that way
Focus on fit, saddle, bars, shoes
The latest 105 groupo is great !
Bikes with race geos are not inherently faster than bikes with more upright geos
Carbon is not faster than steel, or aluminum
One groupo is not faster than another, it's all about the engine on top
Rider position, i.e low flat. and punching a smaller hole through the air is the difference
If you are keen, flexible,and don't mind a bit of toe overlap, a race fit is great
However, tweaking a race bike into an upright style bike is not the best route, they look goofy and are not meant to work that way
Focus on fit, saddle, bars, shoes
The latest 105 groupo is great !
#39
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#40
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#41
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Maybe fit doesn't matter on a a one-minute downhill run, but if you plan on sitting on a tiny little seat for several hours, your weight has to be in all the right places and your posture has to be one you can sustain for the whole time ... because when you are fifty miles out and it starts hurting, you still have 50 miles to ride and the pain is likely only going to continue and to spread.
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#42
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Good afternoon
Tiagra is fine for a beginner. Tiagra is 10 speed, 105 is 11-speed. That is about the biggest difference between the two. Even Dura Ace was 10 speed only a couple of years ago, so don't be fooled by the "arms race" of groupsets. If 105 is in your price range, by all means get it, but nothing wrong with Tiagra. Tiagra level is sooooo good nowadays. (although this forum has some people that look down their nose at anything under Ultegra, don't be fooled)
Look at this video, from one of the most sensible Youtubers out there in my opinion: (this is comparing the previous groupsets, but the same logic still applies).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaJDkVJ1K8E
Those Giant bikes offer very good value for the money. If the bikes fit you, go for it.
Ask if you can test ride the bikes. You can only know fit after a decent test ride, not just by standing over it in the store.
Good luck!
Look at this video, from one of the most sensible Youtubers out there in my opinion: (this is comparing the previous groupsets, but the same logic still applies).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaJDkVJ1K8E
Those Giant bikes offer very good value for the money. If the bikes fit you, go for it.
Ask if you can test ride the bikes. You can only know fit after a decent test ride, not just by standing over it in the store.
Good luck!
#43
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hey
From memory, the difference between 105 and Ultegra is 200 grams and Ultegra to Dura-Ace is about the same. They're the same design using different materials for reduced weight. As a new rider you probably have better things to do with a couple hundred bucks than save a couple hundred grams.
#44
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hello
Hey Well I saw a Contend SL 1 they had on sale but it was a Med large. If it was my size i would got it. Well I can get a carbon fiber frame still. The 2020 models shouldbe coming soon and i can get a deal
#45
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Ciao
Il gruppo 105 è eccellente e ti renderà più veloce dei tuoi amici Sora!
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...iz.drSJBz-GSEk
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...iz.drSJBz-GSEk
#46
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Well Im still new and not sure of the fitment as to where I want to be upright or down. Well I can get down but dont want to be in that position long because of my back.
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That's pretty common, you should be fine with something like the Defy or a more neutral geometry bike then. And if you want to leave some room for possibly getting lower later and are between two sizes, the general advice is to pick the smaller size and have the shop fit you with a longer stem (though Giant's proprietary mechanical/hydraulic stems may have more limited options). You would then leave open the option of removing spacers to get a more aggressive fit.
#49
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I want to start because of exercise and just wanting to try new things. What do I look for when getting a new road bike? I know group sets is one. Shimano 105 and Ultegra is a few. Dura Ace is very nice but expensive. Carbon is one thing i been trying to find reasonable. Should I love full carbon or just the folk?
2019 Motobecane Super Strada
Frame
New Semi-Compact, DoubleButted/HandCrafted aluminum, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, 2xH2O bosses H/T FRAME .RC:408/409 /410 /411 /412 /413mm FOR 47-50/52-54/56/58-60/62/64CM
HEAD TUBE Length: 47/50/52/54/56/58/60/62/64CM=115/130/140/150/170/190/210/230/250mm
Fork
Advanced StraightBlade INTEGRATED CARBON ( UD WEAVE ) 700C L: 340mm, 43mm OFFSET 1.125 inch steerer. 47/50/52/54/56/58/60/62/64CM=203/218/228/238/258/278/298/318/338mm
Derailleurs
F/DERA SHIMANO FD-R8000, ULTEGRA, FOR REAR 11-SPEED, DOWN-SWING, 31.8MM BAND
R/DERA. SHIMANO RD-R8000, ULTEGRA, GS 11-SPEED, TOP NORMAL SHADOW DESIGN, COMPATIBLE W/ 28-34T FOR DOUBLE
Shifters
SHIMANO SHIFT/BRAKE LEVER, ST-R8000, ULTEGRA 22 Speed
Brake Calipers / Levers
TEKTRO R540 BLACK Front w/P420 ALLOY CARTRIDGE SHOE Reach:39-51mm / SHIMANO
INTEGRATED WITH ST-R8000 Levers
Wheelset
DT SWISS P 1800 SPLINE 23 WHEELSET
RIMS DT SWISS 700C ALLOY BLACK ANOD. SLEEVED TUBLESS READY W/FV ( 1596g )
SPOKE DT SWISS STRAIGHTPULL DT NEW AERO & DT AERO COMP , BLACK , F/R:20/24PCS S.S. RADIAL / 2 CROSS W/DT ALUMINUM NIPPLES
F/HUB DT SWISS SPLINE ALLOY ROAD FRONT BLACK HUB 20H. OL:100MM
R/HUB DT SWISS SPLINE ALLOY ROAD REAR BLACK HUB 24H. W/ 3 PAWL SYSTEM , OL:130MM COMPATIBLE WITH SHIMANO 11-SPD
Crank
BottomBracket
FSA Gossamer Compact 50x34T HG C-Ring BLK ANOD. 170/172.5/175mm for 47-52/54-56/58-64C / FSA BB-6200 Road MegaExo Bottom Bracket-Ø24 Stainless bearing / English threading : 68mm width (BSC-1.37" X 24T)
Cassette/Chain
SHIMANO HG800-11, 11-SPEED, 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34T/ KMC X11 SUPER NARROW CN 1/2x11/128"x110L.W/ CL555
Saddle
Racing Turbo W/CR-MO RAIL
Seatpost
RITCHEY 2 BOLTS, 6061 ALLOY BB BLK 27.2 X 350MM
StemRITCHEY COMP 4 AXIS 84/6D( ALLOY(6061) EXT-6°)90/100/110mm FOR 47-52/54-56/58-64CM,C/S:31.8/28.6x42mm, BB BLK
Handlebars
RITCHEY BIOMAX ALLOY(6061) D.B. BUTTED W/TUNNEL BUILT IN TYPE B/CENTER: 31.8mm 400/420/440mm FOR 47-52/54-56/58-64CM, D/R:130/82mm, BB BLK
Pedals
Road Clipless Pedals WELLGO RC-713 ALLOY POWDER COAT BLK ROAD PEDAL W/9/16" CNC CRMO AXLE, Compatible with SPD bolt pattern / 2-bolt sole pattern (cleats are not shoes)
Tires/TubesCONTINENTAL Ultra Sport II 700x25C 180TPI Folding Bead
2019 Motobecane Super Strada
Shimano Ultegra R8000 22 Speed Road Bikes
+Upgrade to New DT SWISS Wheels
Frame
New Semi-Compact, DoubleButted/HandCrafted aluminum, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, 2xH2O bosses H/T FRAME .RC:408/409 /410 /411 /412 /413mm FOR 47-50/52-54/56/58-60/62/64CM
HEAD TUBE Length: 47/50/52/54/56/58/60/62/64CM=115/130/140/150/170/190/210/230/250mm
Fork
Advanced StraightBlade INTEGRATED CARBON ( UD WEAVE ) 700C L: 340mm, 43mm OFFSET 1.125 inch steerer. 47/50/52/54/56/58/60/62/64CM=203/218/228/238/258/278/298/318/338mm
Derailleurs
F/DERA SHIMANO FD-R8000, ULTEGRA, FOR REAR 11-SPEED, DOWN-SWING, 31.8MM BAND
R/DERA. SHIMANO RD-R8000, ULTEGRA, GS 11-SPEED, TOP NORMAL SHADOW DESIGN, COMPATIBLE W/ 28-34T FOR DOUBLE
Shifters
SHIMANO SHIFT/BRAKE LEVER, ST-R8000, ULTEGRA 22 Speed
Brake Calipers / Levers
TEKTRO R540 BLACK Front w/P420 ALLOY CARTRIDGE SHOE Reach:39-51mm / SHIMANO
INTEGRATED WITH ST-R8000 Levers
Wheelset
DT SWISS P 1800 SPLINE 23 WHEELSET
RIMS DT SWISS 700C ALLOY BLACK ANOD. SLEEVED TUBLESS READY W/FV ( 1596g )
SPOKE DT SWISS STRAIGHTPULL DT NEW AERO & DT AERO COMP , BLACK , F/R:20/24PCS S.S. RADIAL / 2 CROSS W/DT ALUMINUM NIPPLES
F/HUB DT SWISS SPLINE ALLOY ROAD FRONT BLACK HUB 20H. OL:100MM
R/HUB DT SWISS SPLINE ALLOY ROAD REAR BLACK HUB 24H. W/ 3 PAWL SYSTEM , OL:130MM COMPATIBLE WITH SHIMANO 11-SPD
Crank
BottomBracket
FSA Gossamer Compact 50x34T HG C-Ring BLK ANOD. 170/172.5/175mm for 47-52/54-56/58-64C / FSA BB-6200 Road MegaExo Bottom Bracket-Ø24 Stainless bearing / English threading : 68mm width (BSC-1.37" X 24T)
Cassette/Chain
SHIMANO HG800-11, 11-SPEED, 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34T/ KMC X11 SUPER NARROW CN 1/2x11/128"x110L.W/ CL555
Saddle
Racing Turbo W/CR-MO RAIL
Seatpost
RITCHEY 2 BOLTS, 6061 ALLOY BB BLK 27.2 X 350MM
StemRITCHEY COMP 4 AXIS 84/6D( ALLOY(6061) EXT-6°)90/100/110mm FOR 47-52/54-56/58-64CM,C/S:31.8/28.6x42mm, BB BLK
Handlebars
RITCHEY BIOMAX ALLOY(6061) D.B. BUTTED W/TUNNEL BUILT IN TYPE B/CENTER: 31.8mm 400/420/440mm FOR 47-52/54-56/58-64CM, D/R:130/82mm, BB BLK
Pedals
Road Clipless Pedals WELLGO RC-713 ALLOY POWDER COAT BLK ROAD PEDAL W/9/16" CNC CRMO AXLE, Compatible with SPD bolt pattern / 2-bolt sole pattern (cleats are not shoes)
Tires/TubesCONTINENTAL Ultra Sport II 700x25C 180TPI Folding Bead
Anyway's, Bikes Direct does not have a good reputation. Prices are indeed low, but there is a cost. Just do some research on them.
As others have said, I would stay local. Spend no more than 1200 and even less on a starter bike. My first bike was a Specialized and was on sale for 900. After 3 years of riding it, I moved up to a full Ultegra setup and carbon frame from Felt.
The 105 or as others have said, even Tiagra is a good group set to start with. Put some miles on the bike and you will get a feel for what you may want to move in to if you stick with it. Last think you want though is a 1500 dollar wall hanging.
Get a cheaper bike and just swap out the wheels for better wheels and you will have a better bike than one that came off the shelf for 1200.
I would highly suggest you ride at least 3 different bike brands if you can. Believe it or not, there are differences between them all. Don't go just by brand. Go with what feels the best to you. My daughter rode 4 different bike brands before settling on a Scott aluminum bike from REI that was on sale for 650. So, test ride a few and look around. It is a lot of money and best to ride a few bikes to see which one feels the best to you and not just buy the cheapest or first one you see.
john
#50
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: East Hampton, CT
Posts: 3
Bikes: Landshark (s), Masi 3V Wing, Dunelt, Griffen
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All that bike spec is great but you are missing one thing which is the most important thing to do first and that is a QUALITY bike fit so you know exactly what size bike to buy. This way you won't be making any 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th 6th mistakes etc. Go to a fitter that doesn't have an axe to grind, namely selling one of the bikes in his store that may not fit you. For that matter if you live in New England, You can come see me.