Setting up a Miyata 610
08-06-18, 10:22 PM
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Setting up a Miyata 610
Hey there folks,
I just got my hands on this Miyata 610 on the cheap through some dumb luck. Frame is in reasonably good shape, components I'm less sure of, at least at first glance. (I'm far from an expert.)
My instinct is to strip it down, repaint it, and mostly rebuild it with all new components/the pedals and seat I'm already using, but I'd love to hear your thoughts, having never done anything like this before. Any hidden gems among the components I should be aware of? Is this, unknown to me, a super-rare paint job I should be wary of stripping? Anyone have any thoughts on how to approach rebuilding this thing? (I do have to haul this thing up and down 5 flights of narrow nyc stairs to my walkup every time I ride it. I already do that daily with my ugly 32-lb-even-before-panniers aluminum hybrid, but I'm hoping to cut at least some weight here.)
Also, any chance anyone here can identify the model year just by looking?
Thanks!
(Attached the image as a pdf because this forum won't let me put inline images in my first post it seems)
I just got my hands on this Miyata 610 on the cheap through some dumb luck. Frame is in reasonably good shape, components I'm less sure of, at least at first glance. (I'm far from an expert.)
My instinct is to strip it down, repaint it, and mostly rebuild it with all new components/the pedals and seat I'm already using, but I'd love to hear your thoughts, having never done anything like this before. Any hidden gems among the components I should be aware of? Is this, unknown to me, a super-rare paint job I should be wary of stripping? Anyone have any thoughts on how to approach rebuilding this thing? (I do have to haul this thing up and down 5 flights of narrow nyc stairs to my walkup every time I ride it. I already do that daily with my ugly 32-lb-even-before-panniers aluminum hybrid, but I'm hoping to cut at least some weight here.)
Also, any chance anyone here can identify the model year just by looking?
Thanks!
(Attached the image as a pdf because this forum won't let me put inline images in my first post it seems)
Last edited by Rafi84; 08-06-18 at 10:28 PM.
08-06-18, 10:37 PM
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It's an '86 model.
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...600/img106.jpg
paint looks nice from afar, but it isnt anything special. Paint it if you want something different. It's a nice frame and starting point for a modernized touring bike.
keep what you like and replace the rest. Only thing to be aware of is that the current cantilever brakes will need to be kept if the studs on the fork are narrower than modern spacing.
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...600/img106.jpg
paint looks nice from afar, but it isnt anything special. Paint it if you want something different. It's a nice frame and starting point for a modernized touring bike.
keep what you like and replace the rest. Only thing to be aware of is that the current cantilever brakes will need to be kept if the studs on the fork are narrower than modern spacing.
08-06-18, 10:54 PM
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Hey thanks folks, both for the assist and the knowledge sharing! Looking forward to sharing what it looks like once it's on the other side of the build process
08-06-18, 11:33 PM
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Zooming in, the paint looks like it’s in great shape; it would be a complete waste of time and effort changing that. Unless you have something very specific you have your heart set on.
I am assuming the drivetrain was originally 3x6, but I'm only seeing two chainrings for some reason? A touring bike should have three.
Upgrades: If you wanted to add brifters, say, you’ll need a new rear wheel with a different hub to accommodate 7, 8, 9, or 10 speeds. Not saying you shouldn’t, but its a can of worms.
There’s a lot you could change, but don’t change anything, unless you’re sure its an improvement for the way you’re going to ride the thing, IMO. That bike is pretty terrific bone-stock, so make sure you know what it is you want before you start tearing it down.
I would advise adjust the parts you currently have for comfort and efficiency (that saddle position can't be good for any human being) decide if you need lower/more gearing, bigger/smaller tires, stuff like that, and proceed from there. I'm guessing you're at least 6' tall @Rafi84, if you plan on riding that big bike.
I am assuming the drivetrain was originally 3x6, but I'm only seeing two chainrings for some reason? A touring bike should have three.
Upgrades: If you wanted to add brifters, say, you’ll need a new rear wheel with a different hub to accommodate 7, 8, 9, or 10 speeds. Not saying you shouldn’t, but its a can of worms.
There’s a lot you could change, but don’t change anything, unless you’re sure its an improvement for the way you’re going to ride the thing, IMO. That bike is pretty terrific bone-stock, so make sure you know what it is you want before you start tearing it down.
I would advise adjust the parts you currently have for comfort and efficiency (that saddle position can't be good for any human being) decide if you need lower/more gearing, bigger/smaller tires, stuff like that, and proceed from there. I'm guessing you're at least 6' tall @Rafi84, if you plan on riding that big bike.
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 08-07-18 at 10:09 AM.
08-07-18, 01:14 AM
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@Rafi84,
That looks like a very nice 610! Congratulations on the purchase of an excellent example of a fine bike. There are many Miyata fans on this forum.
I would strongly suggest not repainting. Miyata used incredible paint, and those two-tone versions look so nice. The original paint on my ‘79 black Miyata 912 still gets compliments, and I haven’t been able to achieve comparable gloss with touch ups. My daughter’s ‘85 312 is even nicer with it’s two-tone paint, despite multiple owners. If touch ups are required, nail polish comes in a bazillion colors and dries to a very hard surface.
One change that you might appreciate is lower gearing for hills (if you have any in your rides beyond NYC), and it looks like the inner chain ring could be much smaller to get there quite easily. (The triple ring crank looks like it’s still there, but the “granny ring“ seems to be missing.) We’d be happy to help you with that, including parts and how to make the change. If you take into most bike shops, they’ll probably tell you it’s not worth doing on such an old bike, very difficult or too expensive, none of which are true. But we could certainly use a driveside photo to know what the driveline components are.
BTW, if the components mentioned in the catalog page that @mstateglfr linked are still present, the “sealed hubs and headset” could still be working well, since the rest of the bike seems to be in good condition.
That looks like a very nice 610! Congratulations on the purchase of an excellent example of a fine bike. There are many Miyata fans on this forum.
I would strongly suggest not repainting. Miyata used incredible paint, and those two-tone versions look so nice. The original paint on my ‘79 black Miyata 912 still gets compliments, and I haven’t been able to achieve comparable gloss with touch ups. My daughter’s ‘85 312 is even nicer with it’s two-tone paint, despite multiple owners. If touch ups are required, nail polish comes in a bazillion colors and dries to a very hard surface.
One change that you might appreciate is lower gearing for hills (if you have any in your rides beyond NYC), and it looks like the inner chain ring could be much smaller to get there quite easily. (The triple ring crank looks like it’s still there, but the “granny ring“ seems to be missing.) We’d be happy to help you with that, including parts and how to make the change. If you take into most bike shops, they’ll probably tell you it’s not worth doing on such an old bike, very difficult or too expensive, none of which are true. But we could certainly use a driveside photo to know what the driveline components are.
BTW, if the components mentioned in the catalog page that @mstateglfr linked are still present, the “sealed hubs and headset” could still be working well, since the rest of the bike seems to be in good condition.
Last edited by Dfrost; 08-07-18 at 01:30 AM.
08-07-18, 04:32 AM
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+3 for not repainting. I was in the same boat when I got my first vintage bike. Wanted to paint over the decent paint in flat black.
Thankfully i didn't waste my time and money. Your bike looks great as is.
A 610 is a sought after touring bike with midrange components. If it fits you will want to do quite a bit of work to it and you will either need your own tools or go to a bike coop. Your biggest jobs will be repacking the grease and ball bearings in the hubs, bottom bracket, headset and maybe pedals. Truing wheels and replacing consumables will come next.
Thankfully i didn't waste my time and money. Your bike looks great as is.
A 610 is a sought after touring bike with midrange components. If it fits you will want to do quite a bit of work to it and you will either need your own tools or go to a bike coop. Your biggest jobs will be repacking the grease and ball bearings in the hubs, bottom bracket, headset and maybe pedals. Truing wheels and replacing consumables will come next.
08-07-18, 04:38 AM
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I have the same bike. I switched to bar end shifters, installed new brake shoes and tires, and left the rest of the equipment stock. It's a very good ride, and there's nothing that needs upgrading.
08-07-18, 04:49 AM
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Paint looks great. Id use that $ and energy in replacing anything you aren’t happy with like the seat, crankset or pedals. Also tires lol.
08-07-18, 06:00 AM
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Haha yes will definitely replace the tires @jwolfe. And note taken on not repainting! Thanks @Lascauxcaveman, @Dfrost, @Narhay, @John_nolan, @jwolfe. I happen to live in the one part of Manhattan where I have to climb a steep 250-foot hill ("the great wall") to get home, so I'll definitely be following up on getting that lower gearing set up once I've dealt with the basic repairs. Thanks again!
08-07-18, 06:20 AM
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That seat angle! No wonder the previous owner got rid of it, I would be lucky to pedal 100 yards with the current setup. Lots of used bikes have funky setups that go a long ways toward explaining why the person decided to get rid of it.
If you get tired of the paint job, but want to preserve and protect the original, I would consider some spray-on Plastidip. It comes in an infinite number of colors (even glow in the dak and "chameleon") and will actually protect your paint underneath. I have done it on a couple of bikes, cost is maybe $15 for 2 cans, and the stuff comes right off using Goo Gone, it peels right off.
Parts-wise, go ahead and upgrade anything that you don't like, just be sure to keep the original part on hand. I don't see any downside to upgrading a few things, other than the cost of bicycle parts, which like buying custom car parts, really adds up. I would venture to guess that even though I have close to 10 bikes, I've spent more on parts for them than on the bikes themselves originally.
If you get tired of the paint job, but want to preserve and protect the original, I would consider some spray-on Plastidip. It comes in an infinite number of colors (even glow in the dak and "chameleon") and will actually protect your paint underneath. I have done it on a couple of bikes, cost is maybe $15 for 2 cans, and the stuff comes right off using Goo Gone, it peels right off.
Parts-wise, go ahead and upgrade anything that you don't like, just be sure to keep the original part on hand. I don't see any downside to upgrading a few things, other than the cost of bicycle parts, which like buying custom car parts, really adds up. I would venture to guess that even though I have close to 10 bikes, I've spent more on parts for them than on the bikes themselves originally.
08-07-18, 08:51 AM
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08-07-18, 08:59 AM
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My 80s 1000 has narrower brake post spacing so you'll have to keep the original brakes, or at least use similar vintage cantilevers, modern ones are far too wide to use.
08-07-18, 09:46 AM
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+1 on being careful with brake replacement, I had a 1986 Schwinn Passage tourer that I rebuilt last year and intended to upgrade the brakes with Tektro 720s, well the back brake replacement went fine but I discovered, as others have mention that the front forks had a narrower spacing in the mid 80s of the canit studs and the 720s on the front were a no go so I ended up with the stock dia-compes on the front and the 720s in the rear. New Kool-stop pads all around will do wonders for the braking.
I had a Miyata 912 I wish I had never sold, great score and have fun with it. I recommend replacing the basics, tires, chain brake pads etc and riding it and dialing it in before making wholesale changes.
I had a Miyata 912 I wish I had never sold, great score and have fun with it. I recommend replacing the basics, tires, chain brake pads etc and riding it and dialing it in before making wholesale changes.
08-07-18, 11:55 AM
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Here is my 1980 Miyata 610. It was built as a "go anywhere" bike. It has Brifters and no granny gear. It's now sporting 28 mm tires. I'm considering switching to some wider knobbys and taking this bad boy off road. It is the most indestructible bike I have ever had. +4 for not reprinting. Nail polish and wax will make it look showroom new. 
08-07-18, 12:24 PM
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Don't even think about painting that bike! Before I knew better I had a couple of bikes professionally repainted (neither of them in nearly as good shape as yours) and have always regretted it.
08-07-18, 03:29 PM
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Zooming in, the paint looks like it’s in great shape; it would be a complete waste of time and effort changing that. Unless you have something very specific you have your heart set on.
I am assuming the drivetrain was originally 3x6, but I'm only seeing two chainrings for some reason? A touring bike should have three.
Upgrades: If you wanted to add brifters, say, you’ll need a new rear wheel with a different hub to accommodate 7, 8, 9, or 10 speeds. Not saying you shouldn’t, but its a can of worms.
There’s a lot you could change, but don’t change anything, unless you’re sure its an improvement for the way you’re going to ride the thing, IMO. That bike is pretty terrific bone-stock, so make sure you know what it is you want before you start tearing it down.
I would advise adjust the parts you currently have for comfort and efficiency (that saddle position can't be good for any human being) decide if you need lower/more gearing, bigger/smaller tires, stuff like that, and proceed from there. I'm guessing you're at least 6' tall @Rafi84, if you plan on riding that big bike.
I am assuming the drivetrain was originally 3x6, but I'm only seeing two chainrings for some reason? A touring bike should have three.
Upgrades: If you wanted to add brifters, say, you’ll need a new rear wheel with a different hub to accommodate 7, 8, 9, or 10 speeds. Not saying you shouldn’t, but its a can of worms.
There’s a lot you could change, but don’t change anything, unless you’re sure its an improvement for the way you’re going to ride the thing, IMO. That bike is pretty terrific bone-stock, so make sure you know what it is you want before you start tearing it down.
I would advise adjust the parts you currently have for comfort and efficiency (that saddle position can't be good for any human being) decide if you need lower/more gearing, bigger/smaller tires, stuff like that, and proceed from there. I'm guessing you're at least 6' tall @Rafi84, if you plan on riding that big bike.
I realize everyone's said it and you seem to have heard it, but .... The paint looks to be in really good shape, and that Miyata paint is pretty tough.
I see a bike like this and I get upgrade fever. It was a good frame and there were good components used on it. A lot of really cool bike parts have been put out since this bike was released, and a lot of them would work swell on this bike- but like it's been mentioned- figure out what you like, what works and what you think would be cool before you go all out in upgrading something that doesn't need it.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
08-08-18, 10:26 AM
#19
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I find drop bars a pain in the neck (literally ) and have converted all my bikes to upright bars. Unless you are racing I see no upside to using "racing" drop bars.
With the above set up the shifting is incredibly smooth . No need to take your hands off the bars, just a slight nudge on the shift lever and you are in the next gear.
With the triple chainring spacing you have three distinct gear ranges, uphill (Any hill) with the 24 teeth, slight hill and flat with the 36 teeth, and down hill with the 48 teeth.
If you want to climb walls, substitute a 7 speed shimano hyperglide with 34 tooth bail out gear . It has the about the same spacing on the first 6 gears plus that momahama 34 tooth plus it has ramps to make shifting completely fool proof.!
Get the fattest tires that will fit on the bike. Also I love my Brooks b 67 saddle. Combined with north road style bars and the above gearing and shifters it makes an extremely comfortable city bike.
With the above set up the shifting is incredibly smooth . No need to take your hands off the bars, just a slight nudge on the shift lever and you are in the next gear.
With the triple chainring spacing you have three distinct gear ranges, uphill (Any hill) with the 24 teeth, slight hill and flat with the 36 teeth, and down hill with the 48 teeth.
If you want to climb walls, substitute a 7 speed shimano hyperglide with 34 tooth bail out gear . It has the about the same spacing on the first 6 gears plus that momahama 34 tooth plus it has ramps to make shifting completely fool proof.!
Get the fattest tires that will fit on the bike. Also I love my Brooks b 67 saddle. Combined with north road style bars and the above gearing and shifters it makes an extremely comfortable city bike.
06-28-21, 10:26 AM
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On the same boat
Hi, i just got the same bike probably a bit older. I am in brooklyn if you wanna meet up compare notes on your experience bringing your back to life. Do you still own it?
07-07-21, 10:29 PM
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I’m rebuilding an ‘84 610 now. All original and no modifications. Let me know if you have any specific questions maybe I can help
07-07-21, 10:40 PM
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Wow what are the odds
Any chance you could direct message me wont allow me to do that yet.
07-08-21, 07:44 AM
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thats amazing. I am just starting my journey down the road biking lane. A life long swimmer and decided to jump onto the triathlon band wagon.Would love to show you what I am workign with and see whatvyou recommend. Been able to get about a 100 street miles on it without any mods so decent condition with all original parts other than the chain I believe.
Any chance you could direct message me wont allow me to do that yet.
Any chance you could direct message me wont allow me to do that yet.
07-08-21, 09:39 PM
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^^^^^^^ Spy-gle not needed; start here -- https://www.ragandbone.ca/Miyata/miyata_selector.html