Matching chainrings and cassettes
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Matching chainrings and cassettes
Hey guys/gals,
Trying to figure out my gearing setup on my AWOL. I got a feeling that my gearing is too tall, trying to figure out what I need to do to fix the gear range. I mostly run on the small chainring in the front, don't think I have ever used the large chainring, wondering if I can shorten the ratio's to give me better shifting through the cassette and open up use of the large chainring?
Currently running 50/34 in the front on a sram rival crank and 11-32 on the rear cassette.
Any recommendations?
Trying to figure out my gearing setup on my AWOL. I got a feeling that my gearing is too tall, trying to figure out what I need to do to fix the gear range. I mostly run on the small chainring in the front, don't think I have ever used the large chainring, wondering if I can shorten the ratio's to give me better shifting through the cassette and open up use of the large chainring?
Currently running 50/34 in the front on a sram rival crank and 11-32 on the rear cassette.
Any recommendations?
#2
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I'm not sure I'm following your post. You indicate that you think the gearing is too tall, yet want closer ratios.
These two goals are somewhat inconsistent.
You're not going to get an inner chain ring smaller than 34, so the option for lower gearing is an 11-36 (which may require a new rear derailleur) but will also widen the steps between ratios.
You could go with 46/38 chain rings (often use for cyclocross) to make the big ring more useful, but you'll raise the gear ratio of your lowest gear.
You could also go with a 46/34 combination, but the rings wouldn't be designed to work together, and you might see some degradation of your front shifting.
I'm not a big fan of triples, but your stated purpose, lower gearing and closer ratios, a triple appears to be the answer.
These two goals are somewhat inconsistent.
You're not going to get an inner chain ring smaller than 34, so the option for lower gearing is an 11-36 (which may require a new rear derailleur) but will also widen the steps between ratios.
You could go with 46/38 chain rings (often use for cyclocross) to make the big ring more useful, but you'll raise the gear ratio of your lowest gear.
You could also go with a 46/34 combination, but the rings wouldn't be designed to work together, and you might see some degradation of your front shifting.
I'm not a big fan of triples, but your stated purpose, lower gearing and closer ratios, a triple appears to be the answer.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
Last edited by merlinextraligh; 03-15-17 at 08:02 AM.
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I'm not sure I'm following your post. You indicate that you think the gearing is too tall, yet want closer ratios.
These two goals are somewhat inconsistent.
You're not going to get an inner chain ring smaller than 34, so the option for lower gearing is an 11-36 (which may require a new rear derailleur) but will also widen the steps between ratios.
You could go with 46/38 chain rings (often use for cyclocross) to make the big ring more useful, but you'll raise the gear ratio of your lowest gear.
You could also go with a 46/34 combination, but the rings wouldn't be designed to work together, and you might see some degradation of your front shifting.
I'm not a big fan of triples, but your stated purpose, lower gearing and closer ratios, a triple appears to be the answer.
These two goals are somewhat inconsistent.
You're not going to get an inner chain ring smaller than 34, so the option for lower gearing is an 11-36 (which may require a new rear derailleur) but will also widen the steps between ratios.
You could go with 46/38 chain rings (often use for cyclocross) to make the big ring more useful, but you'll raise the gear ratio of your lowest gear.
You could also go with a 46/34 combination, but the rings wouldn't be designed to work together, and you might see some degradation of your front shifting.
I'm not a big fan of triples, but your stated purpose, lower gearing and closer ratios, a triple appears to be the answer.
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 03-15-17 at 08:33 AM.
#4
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^ that's where the OP doesn't give enough information. does he need the 34/32 combination for his low gear? If so he's not going to get much closer spacing without a triple.
If you can find, or assemble a 11 speed cassette with 12-32, it would be a slight improvement in spacing but not much.
If you can find, or assemble a 11 speed cassette with 12-32, it would be a slight improvement in spacing but not much.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
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^ that's where the OP doesn't give enough information. does he need the 34/32 combination for his low gear? If so he's not going to get much closer spacing without a triple.
If you can find, or assemble a 11 speed cassette with 12-32, it would be a slight improvement in spacing but not much.
If you can find, or assemble a 11 speed cassette with 12-32, it would be a slight improvement in spacing but not much.
#6
Blazer of saddles, trails
I don't think this is quite right.
There is a growing list of options for so-called "adventure" gearing that offer 48/32 and even 46/30 chainrings. Because these chainrings do not work with the BCD of compact cranksets, it will require replacing the cranks too. But it might be the simplest option for getting more usable range out of your existing set up.
Some examples:
- FSA Modular Adventure SL-K crankset
- Sugino OX901D
- White Industries VBC chainrings
- I've even heard rumors that the Easton EC90 SL cranks might soon get sub-compact chainring options
There is a growing list of options for so-called "adventure" gearing that offer 48/32 and even 46/30 chainrings. Because these chainrings do not work with the BCD of compact cranksets, it will require replacing the cranks too. But it might be the simplest option for getting more usable range out of your existing set up.
Some examples:
- FSA Modular Adventure SL-K crankset
- Sugino OX901D
- White Industries VBC chainrings
- I've even heard rumors that the Easton EC90 SL cranks might soon get sub-compact chainring options
#7
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I don't think this is quite right.
There is a growing list of options for so-called "adventure" gearing that offer 48/32 and even 46/30 chainrings. Because these chainrings do not work with the BCD of compact cranksets, it will require replacing the cranks too. But it might be the simplest option for getting more usable range out of your existing set up.
Some examples:
- FSA Modular Adventure SL-K crankset
- Sugino OX901D
- White Industries VBC chainrings
- I've even heard rumors that the Easton EC90 SL cranks might soon get sub-compact chainring options
There is a growing list of options for so-called "adventure" gearing that offer 48/32 and even 46/30 chainrings. Because these chainrings do not work with the BCD of compact cranksets, it will require replacing the cranks too. But it might be the simplest option for getting more usable range out of your existing set up.
Some examples:
- FSA Modular Adventure SL-K crankset
- Sugino OX901D
- White Industries VBC chainrings
- I've even heard rumors that the Easton EC90 SL cranks might soon get sub-compact chainring options
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#9
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I've been spinning myself in circles on this ordeal... I'll put it in laymans terms as I get the feeling I'm screwing up Tall/short/close/low/high. I am looking to get more gear options at low speeds on the bike(especially loaded). I don't even touch the large chainring on the crank until I am really hammering down. I have too much top end gearing and not enough low speed gearing.
#11
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When you say not enough low end gearing, are you saying that your lowest gear is not low enough for you; the low end gears are spaced too far apart, or both?
Because what you need or want for your lowest gear is going to dictate the answer of how to best address your problem.
Because what you need or want for your lowest gear is going to dictate the answer of how to best address your problem.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
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When you say not enough low end gearing, are you saying that your lowest gear is not low enough for you; the low end gears are spaced too far apart, or both?
Because what you need or want for your lowest gear is going to dictate the answer of how to best address your problem.
Because what you need or want for your lowest gear is going to dictate the answer of how to best address your problem.
#13
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In which case you likely need to get a new crankset. Either one that will allow you to use smaller chainrings, as in Blazin's post, or go to a triple ( Which involves new shifters derailleurs, and crankset.
You could get the lower gear by going to a SRAM Wifly 11-36 cassette but that would exacerbate your spacing problem ( and likely require a new rear derailleur)
If you went with a mountain bike crankset, you could run much smaller chain rings, have a lower low gear, and closer ratios.
A SRAM 2x10 crankset with 42-28 chain rings and an 11-28 cassette, would give you a bit closer spacing, lower low gear, and still have a decently high top end.
If you went with 38-24 chainrings, you could get even lower gearing, and/or tighter spacing. And 38/11 is still good for 24mph at 90 rpm
You could get the lower gear by going to a SRAM Wifly 11-36 cassette but that would exacerbate your spacing problem ( and likely require a new rear derailleur)
If you went with a mountain bike crankset, you could run much smaller chain rings, have a lower low gear, and closer ratios.
A SRAM 2x10 crankset with 42-28 chain rings and an 11-28 cassette, would give you a bit closer spacing, lower low gear, and still have a decently high top end.
If you went with 38-24 chainrings, you could get even lower gearing, and/or tighter spacing. And 38/11 is still good for 24mph at 90 rpm
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
Last edited by merlinextraligh; 03-15-17 at 10:05 AM.
#14
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Seems to me you should just get a SRAM 1x11, 38 in the front, 11-36 in the back. SRAM Rival x1 seems like a good choice. They do have RD that can go up to 42.
#15
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And if you went with the 42 with the 38 in a 1x11 setup, the jumps in his gearing would be larger than they are now.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#16
Senior Member
Hmm maybe then a 12-25 with a SRAM MTB 1x crank in the front, 26. 26-25 is near 1:1 ratio.
#17
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All your options are a bit too complicated tbh. I personally would look for a cassette that starts with larger sprockets and goes as low as you need. TA Specialites makes cassettes starting at 14T and even up to 18T, although they might be hard to get. Good thing is that as you ride more and get stronger your problem will solve itself.
#18
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All your options are a bit too complicated tbh. I personally would look for a cassette that starts with larger sprockets and goes as low as you need. TA Specialites makes cassettes starting at 14T and even up to 18T, although they might be hard to get. Good thing is that as you ride more and get stronger your problem will solve itself.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
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I've been spinning myself in circles on this ordeal... I'll put it in laymans terms as I get the feeling I'm screwing up Tall/short/close/low/high. I am looking to get more gear options at low speeds on the bike(especially loaded). I don't even touch the large chainring on the crank until I am really hammering down. I have too much top end gearing and not enough low speed gearing.
A 30/40?/50 triple w/ your current 11-32 would definitely meet your needs.
PS on terms: "top end" = high speed, and "low end" = low speed. You are using those terms backwards.
Top end, big gears, big ring, small cog, up shift in a car = fast on the flat and/or descending
Low end, small gears, small ring, large cog (and "tall" gearing), down shift in a car = slow on the flat and/or climbing
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Triple or MTB gearing ... or MTB triple. No matter what he needs to redo his crankset, and maybe his front derailleur and shifters ... so starting out with an MTB double and a 13-32 would be the cheapest way. Possibly he would just need the crankset and cassette.
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Is there a reason why you would "start out" with a MTB drive train on a road bike?
Why not "start out" with a road bike drive train? Particularly since it will be lighter, and the controls more likely appropriate / compatible / coordinated with the ones he already has and doesn't need to replace (ie. rear brifter, derailleur, cassette)?
Why not "start out" with a road bike drive train? Particularly since it will be lighter, and the controls more likely appropriate / compatible / coordinated with the ones he already has and doesn't need to replace (ie. rear brifter, derailleur, cassette)?
#25
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Is there a reason why you would "start out" with a MTB drive train on a road bike?
Why not "start out" with a road bike drive train? Particularly since it will be lighter, and the controls more likely appropriate / compatible / coordinated with the ones he already has and doesn't need to replace (ie. rear brifter, derailleur, cassette)?
Why not "start out" with a road bike drive train? Particularly since it will be lighter, and the controls more likely appropriate / compatible / coordinated with the ones he already has and doesn't need to replace (ie. rear brifter, derailleur, cassette)?
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.