blinky

First choice was the top tube but the bike turned in the jaws and the rear brake cable got pinched - I'm now thinking seat post or tube - wondering what others do and whether you wrap the tube or post with a material that resists twisting - hanging it by the seat nose isn't an option .

cpach

Always seat post. Decent bikes have very thin walls in the center of the tubes. You can

79pmooney

You don't say what your bike or bikes are. The steel bikes of long ago were save to clamp on all of the main tubes. Quick destruction for many current light bikes. Many of the new seatposts have the same issue. What many mechanics do is have a second seatpost with a strong tube and simple swap seatposts for the stand.

SoSmellyAir

Always clamp the seat post, never clamp the frame. This rule applies even if both the frame and the seat post are carbon fiber. Seat posts are designed to be clamped by a clamp on or within the seat tube. Yes, I understand that a work stand clamps a higher section of the seat post, which may have thinner walls and/or a non-circular cross-section to allow flex, but that is still safer than clamping the frame. No, the seat post is not indestructible, but at least it is (generally) much less expensive to replace than the frame. Use only the necessary clamping force; do not overtighten the clamp. If planning to apply great torque, best do as 79pmooney described above.

blinky

The bike is a 20 year old Litespeed , titanium tubes and a Thomson seat post that I'm guessing will withstand a tight grip - I'm using a Park gripper mounted to a post in the garage , see link below.

PRS-4W-2 Deluxe Wall Mount Repair Stand | Park Tool

smd4

Concur with seatpost. Also--use a shop rag in the jaws for added protection.

tkamd73 

All my bikes are steel so usually the top tube, and a shop rag, on my old Blackburn stand, never had an issue. Newer Aluminum or Carbon frame seat post.
Tim

himespau 

If you're afraid of damaging your seatpost for whatever reason, get yourself one of these:

smd4

Great suggestion.

tkamd73 

I didn’t know that even existed, Thanks!
Tim

himespau 

I think those are no longer made, but I found one on eBay for like $20 and they make a different version that does a similar job, but doesn't push the bike outward when it clamps.

Gym123456

It does flare outward- the end is conical and the bands prevent the pieces on it from falling off. It works like one of these-

himespau 

Sorry, when I said push the frame outward, I meant that the ISC-1 that I have, because of the U-shape design of the tool, has the clamping surface a few inches over from the frame which pushes the entire frame outward from the clamp. It also allows you to have the frame a bit higher relative the clamp.

squirtdad

not made any more by Park any one have other brands.... of course one can just get a seat post to use

cxwrench

smd4

Guess that does the job until you want to adjust your front brakes. Do cranks work OK with that? I'd rather have the stand in the back.

RGMN

sdmc530

I have the same race stand as the above to posts. Its the best, nothing you can't do with that stand front or rear end work. I have both types but don't use the traditional style very often.
Heck i use it mostly for work on my hunting bow more than my bikes.

RGMN

Not bows but another use for Park repair stands: Home Page | Park Tool Trimmer

JanMM

A bit of a challenge for my $99 Venzo VPT with our tandem but the 2" Reynolds cromo main tube is pretty robust.

smd4

I'd personally prefer not have to remove a wheel to get it to work. If I had my druthers (actually, the money, or lack thereof, is the issue), I'd get a Park professional stand with the sheet steel base. That thing was a marvel of engineering.

70sSanO

The best location is probably the seatpost, and for any higher torque maintenance, probably a must.

But for me, I weigh the integrated seatpost clamp vs. the separate seatpost clamp and the type of work I’m doing.

I use a Feedback Sports work stand, but that’s probably academic, except for linkage type work stand clamps.

If I’m doing light adjustments or lubing, I’ll very lightly clamp the top tube rather than loosen and tighten an integrated clamp, especially one that is threaded aluminum, every time I’m dinking around on one of my bikes.

John

SoSmellyAir

But would this damage a carbon fiber seat tube? That would be worse than damaging a seat post. And even if not, what is the advantage over using an alloy seat post? Either way one would have to remove the actual seat post. Or is a non-round seat post the only reason to use this?

RGMN

Yes, you can damage the frames with these if you tighten the knob too tight. I've seen an aluminum frame that had dents in the seat tube from this one, and a carbon frame seat tube cracked with plastic one, both from the "mechanic" tightening the knob way to f'n much.

squirtdad

advantage to this is that it can work with many different seat post sizes, say if you are a shop mechanic.

I don't think I would want to try this or similar with carbon seat tube. especially non round ones.

the guy I would go to for stuff that i don't have tools for like bb facing, put a bunch of padding on top the top jaw and would hang bikes by the seat. I am to clumsy to do that, and certainly not with other peoples bikes