Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

What cables and housing?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

What cables and housing?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-02-22, 09:36 PM
  #1  
greatbasin
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 198 Post(s)
Liked 84 Times in 65 Posts
What cables and housing?

I need to replace cables and housing.

I used Jagwire Road Pro the last time, back in 2014. It's braided stainless with a clear cover. The cover is all cracked up and peeling. The original housing on the bike was 30 years old and looked better than this Jagwire after only 5 years or so. I know it's been 8 now but it's been bad for a long time.

I don't know what else is good, but I've got two bikes to do now.

They're vintage bikes with downtube shifters, so I only need the shortest piece of housing for the rear derailleur. Most of the cable run is bare. Do I get Jagwire Elite Ultra Slick? and then just a little piece of housing separately? Can I get a short piece of the aluminum "link" housing? I don't want to get the Road Elite Sealed when most of the cable run is bare. What's the best cable for running bare along the frame?

For brake cables, I have housing all the way to the side-pulls or to the center-pull brackets. I don't want the link housing for this, but something more traditional-looking, black. Road Elite Sealed?
greatbasin is offline  
Old 05-03-22, 05:30 AM
  #2  
bboy314
Senior Member
 
bboy314's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pioneer Valley
Posts: 967
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 310 Post(s)
Liked 713 Times in 367 Posts
The jagwire stuff is generally good but I’ve had the same experience with the clear housing cracking and degrading quickly, I’d just stay away from that in particular.
bboy314 is offline  
Old 05-03-22, 06:07 AM
  #3  
tkamd73 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 1,832

Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 603 Post(s)
Liked 1,062 Times in 534 Posts
With vintage bikes and down tube shifters try porkchop bmx. Putting that in a search engine usually brings up their eBay site, but they also have also have their own site. Quality stuff, lots of color choices, sold in complete sets for mountain bikes, or road bikes. All my vintage bikes have their cables and housing, here are two of them. Actually on the Raleigh the shifter housing and cables, there is a lot of it on that bike, are from the Yokozuna USA site, they still sell the old thicker 1.5 stainless shifter cables. Yokozuna also sells that coiled stainless piece of liner for the rear derailleur.
Tim



78 Supercourse

85 Trek 670

Last edited by tkamd73; 05-03-22 at 06:22 AM.
tkamd73 is offline  
Old 05-03-22, 06:22 AM
  #4  
smd4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,754

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3490 Post(s)
Liked 2,910 Times in 1,766 Posts
I went with Aican compressionless for the brakes. Basically the same as Jagwire, but less expensive. It 's dimensions are the same as regular housing, and look identical from the outside. Improved breaking immensely, at the same time saving me some weight. Available in at least black and white.

The bit of housing for the rear derailleur is just Shimano SIS housing.

I used some teflon-coated cables for the derailleurs; not sure if they help much--there's not many friction points to begin with. I also used teflon cable liners to guide the cables under the bottom bracket. Rock 'n' Roll cable lubricant for all cables, although that brand certainly isn't necessary; any lube will help. We routinely wiped the cables in white lithium grease at the bike stores.
smd4 is offline  
Old 05-03-22, 08:26 AM
  #5  
HillRider
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times in 741 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
I used some teflon-coated cables for the derailleurs; not sure if they help much--there's not many friction points to begin with.
I used some of these once and discovered no matter how tight I made the clamp bolts, the cable would gradually slip under tension and change the shifting. I had to scrape off the coating over a couple of inches at the clamp locations to stabilize shifting performance. As you noted, there didn't seem to be any real benefit even when they were adjusted properly and I've avoided coated cables ever since.
HillRider is offline  
Likes For HillRider:
Old 05-03-22, 08:51 AM
  #6  
smd4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,754

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3490 Post(s)
Liked 2,910 Times in 1,766 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
I used some of these once and discovered no matter how tight I made the clamp bolts, the cable would gradually slip under tension and change the shifting. I had to scrape off the coating over a couple of inches at the clamp locations to stabilize shifting performance. As you noted, there didn't seem to be any real benefit even when they were adjusted properly and I've avoided coated cables ever since.
Thanks for the heads-up. The cables are new this season, so I will definitely keep an eye on that. They did seem more of a novelty than anything else--especially on a DT shifter bike.
smd4 is offline  
Old 05-03-22, 10:28 AM
  #7  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,725
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2152 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times in 1,203 Posts
Another vote for Porkchop BMX cable housing.
The cables themselves are nothing special-galvanized- but thr housing is superb.
Also recommend Shimano’s stainless drawn cables. Slick shifting, no coating, last pretty much forever.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
rccardr is offline  
Old 05-04-22, 10:40 PM
  #8  
SurferRosa
señor miembro
 
SurferRosa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,602

Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3869 Post(s)
Liked 6,455 Times in 3,192 Posts
Originally Posted by greatbasin
I need to replace cables and housing... They're vintage bikes with downtube shifters...
Here's a 4-piece Shimano kit ($10 shipped) that I use on most all my vintage road bikes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39282598568...sAAOSw0Q1hCDCm

There's enough housing and two brake cables for non-aero levers. There's even enough housing left over for down tube friction shifting. I think grey housing looks classy on pretty much everything. There is a very small, random Shimano label on the housing, but I don't mind it. You can usually hide it. And if you do need to remove it, I think it comes off easily with acetone.
SurferRosa is offline  
Likes For SurferRosa:
Old 05-05-22, 05:35 AM
  #9  
tkamd73 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 1,832

Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 603 Post(s)
Liked 1,062 Times in 534 Posts
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Here's a 4-piece Shimano kit ($10 shipped) that I use on most all my vintage road bikes:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39282598568...sAAOSw0Q1hCDCm

There's enough housing and two brake cables for non-aero levers. There's even enough housing left over for down tube friction shifting. I think grey housing looks classy on pretty much everything. There is a very small, random Shimano label on the housing, but I don't mind it. You can usually hide it. And if you do need to remove it, I think it comes off easily with acetone.
Hah, just bought that set yesterday for a Schwinn Traveler I’m redoing for a friend. Thats a really good deal on Shimano SLR cable, and your right, grey goes with everything!
Tim
tkamd73 is offline  
Likes For tkamd73:
Old 05-05-22, 10:03 AM
  #10  
Crankycrank
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,661
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 836 Post(s)
Liked 1,058 Times in 742 Posts
Originally Posted by greatbasin
I don't want to get the Road Elite Sealed when most of the cable run is bare. What's the best cable for running bare along the frame?

For brake cables, I have housing all the way to the side-pulls or to the center-pull brackets. I don't want the link housing for this, but something more traditional-looking, black. Road Elite Sealed?
For just a derailleur loop go to your local bike shop that will sell a short piece of bulk housing. No need to buy full shift cable kits for DT shifters.
Crankycrank is offline  
Old 05-05-22, 10:48 AM
  #11  
etherhuffer 
Senior Member
 
etherhuffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Seattle
Posts: 1,420

Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker,81 Fuji Gran Tour SE, 83 Fuji S12S LTD, Voyageur 11.8 chrome, Raleigh R300 Touring, Voyageur 11.8

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 501 Times in 227 Posts
Just a note on kits that have double ended wires. You cut off the end not needed. Even with good cutters you end up with a less than ideal cable end to feed through the housing. I had to go really old school and solder the end to prevent fraying.
etherhuffer is offline  
Old 05-05-22, 11:28 AM
  #12  
smd4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,754

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3490 Post(s)
Liked 2,910 Times in 1,766 Posts
Originally Posted by etherhuffer
Just a note on kits that have double ended wires. You cut off the end not needed. Even with good cutters you end up with a less than ideal cable end to feed through the housing. I had to go really old school and solder the end to prevent fraying.
You need cutters made especially for cutting bike cables, which will not fray the cables. Regular diagonal cutters won't cut it (so to speak).

My old standby's are a pair of old Shimano cable cutters from the 1980s. The new Shimano cutters look similar. I also have the Park cutters, which I haven't used. They certainly look like they can do the job (maybe I'll test them on some scrap cables and get back to you). There are also other makes.

If you do get a nice set of cable cutters--DO NOT USE THEM TO CUT ANYTHING ELSE! Save them for bike cables only, so keep them functioning properly.

Last edited by smd4; 05-05-22 at 11:43 AM.
smd4 is offline  
Old 05-05-22, 01:12 PM
  #13  
etherhuffer 
Senior Member
 
etherhuffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Seattle
Posts: 1,420

Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker,81 Fuji Gran Tour SE, 83 Fuji S12S LTD, Voyageur 11.8 chrome, Raleigh R300 Touring, Voyageur 11.8

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 501 Times in 227 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
You need cutters made especially for cutting bike cables, which will not fray the cables. Regular diagonal cutters won't cut it (so to speak).

My old standby's are a pair of old Shimano cable cutters from the 1980s. The new Shimano cutters look similar. I also have the Park cutters, which I haven't used. They certainly look like they can do the job (maybe I'll test them on some scrap cables and get back to you). There are also other makes.

If you do get a nice set of cable cutters--DO NOT USE THEM TO CUT ANYTHING ELSE! Save them for bike cables only, so keep them functioning properly.
Yes! I have good ones too, but even then ends fray. Look closely at factory cut cables, they appear to be electro-cut. You can see the darkening
etherhuffer is offline  
Old 05-05-22, 01:14 PM
  #14  
smd4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,754

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3490 Post(s)
Liked 2,910 Times in 1,766 Posts
Originally Posted by etherhuffer
Yes! I have good ones too, but even then ends fray. Look closely at factory cut cables, they appear to be electro-cut. You can see the darkening
If your cables are fraying using good, shop-quality cable cutters, then something is wrong--perhaps they are too dull.

They should not fray whatsoever.

Like I said, I've been using a 40-year-old shop-quality cable cutter, and it will still cut cables as clean as any electro-cutter.

Last edited by smd4; 05-05-22 at 01:33 PM.
smd4 is offline  
Old 05-05-22, 02:31 PM
  #15  
2_i 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,706

Bikes: Trek 730 (quad), 720 & 830, Bike Friday NWT, Brompton M36R & M6R, Dahon HAT060 & HT060, ...

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 840 Post(s)
Liked 336 Times in 251 Posts
I converted all bikes to segmented housing, out of inexpensive TRLREQ beads combined with Jagwire liner. Cable operation is far superior, the cables are lighter, sharp angles are easy, the housing is reusable and can be color coded. There is no looking back for me.



Folder with complicated cable routing just got its first cable converted to segmented housing.

Last edited by 2_i; 05-05-22 at 08:41 PM.
2_i is online now  
Old 05-05-22, 05:55 PM
  #16  
etherhuffer 
Senior Member
 
etherhuffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Seattle
Posts: 1,420

Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker,81 Fuji Gran Tour SE, 83 Fuji S12S LTD, Voyageur 11.8 chrome, Raleigh R300 Touring, Voyageur 11.8

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 501 Times in 227 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
If your cables are fraying using good, shop-quality cable cutters, then something is wrong--perhaps they are too dull.

They should not fray whatsoever.

Like I said, I've been using a 40-year-old shop-quality cable cutter, and it will still cut cables as clean as any electro-cutter.
I have Park Tool cutters. Even so it’s dicey.
etherhuffer is offline  
Old 05-05-22, 06:05 PM
  #17  
smd4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,754

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3490 Post(s)
Liked 2,910 Times in 1,766 Posts
Originally Posted by etherhuffer
I have Park Tool cutters. Even so it’s dicey.
Ok, just tried out my never-before-used Park CN-10. Beautiful cuts on cable, spiral brake housing and SIS derailleur housing. No fraying of the cable at all.

I still prefer my Shimano TL-CT10, just because it’s not as heavy or unwieldy as the Park. I’ve used the Shimano for decades, first during daily rigorous shop use, and in more recent years in the home shop.

At this point, I have no idea why you guys are having problems.

Last edited by smd4; 05-06-22 at 07:42 AM.
smd4 is offline  
Old 05-07-22, 09:12 AM
  #18  
Mr. 66
Senior Member
 
Mr. 66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,283
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1135 Post(s)
Liked 1,727 Times in 951 Posts
Porkchop never worked out for me, I gave up on them. I buy elsewhere
Mr. 66 is offline  
Old 05-07-22, 09:52 AM
  #19  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,891

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4790 Post(s)
Liked 3,918 Times in 2,548 Posts
Originally Posted by etherhuffer
Just a note on kits that have double ended wires. You cut off the end not needed. Even with good cutters you end up with a less than ideal cable end to feed through the housing. I had to go really old school and solder the end to prevent fraying.
Are you opening the housing ends after cutting the housing to length? I use 14g/2.0mm spokes that I have cut to a convenient ~6" and sharpened one end. Poke this into the housing after cutting and filing the end square. (Here in Portland, they are called "pokey tools" and every mechanic has one. Some of us staple short lengths of housing to our tool boards to hold them.
79pmooney is offline  
Old 05-07-22, 09:58 AM
  #20  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,891

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4790 Post(s)
Liked 3,918 Times in 2,548 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
You need cutters made especially for cutting bike cables, which will not fray the cables. Regular diagonal cutters won't cut it (so to speak).

My old standby's are a pair of old Shimano cable cutters from the 1980s. The new Shimano cutters look similar. I also have the Park cutters, which I haven't used. They certainly look like they can do the job (maybe I'll test them on some scrap cables and get back to you). There are also other makes.

If you do get a nice set of cable cutters--DO NOT USE THEM TO CUT ANYTHING ELSE! Save them for bike cables only, so keep them functioning properly.
I have the Shimano cutters and have been cutting the housings also with them. Apparently I've broken some law and they now are trash but I haven't noticed and plan to continue this practice for the next decade. (The cut cable ends are still very clean.)
79pmooney is offline  
Old 05-07-22, 10:11 AM
  #21  
smd4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,754

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3490 Post(s)
Liked 2,910 Times in 1,766 Posts
Originally Posted by 79pmooney
I have the Shimano cutters and have been cutting the housings also with them. Apparently I've broken some law and they now are trash but I haven't noticed and plan to continue this practice for the next decade. (The cut cable ends are still very clean.)
I meant don’t use them as you would other cutters. Don’t use them to cut spokes, nails, etc. Housing is fine. But I think you knew that.
smd4 is offline  
Old 05-07-22, 10:28 AM
  #22  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,891

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4790 Post(s)
Liked 3,918 Times in 2,548 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
I meant don’t use them as you would other cutters. Don’t use them to cut spokes, nails, etc. Housing is fine. But I think you knew that.
If it's not bike cables and housing, I grab my straight edged cutter pliers. Too big or tough for those? The bolt cutters. (Used to race sailboats. I cut 1/8" SS wire, both 1X19 and the flexy stuff. Setting up a new rig - a lot. One of my favorite tools. a linesman's Nicropress swaging tool. Works like new and I've had it 50 years. It's joined more than one derailleur cable! Bike shops aren't always open when Ben's Bikes is operating.)

Thanks for your response. I am not sure I've ever heard whether others consider cutting housing OK with the Shimano/Park and likewise cable cutters. I just know it seems to be.
79pmooney is offline  
Old 05-07-22, 10:35 AM
  #23  
smd4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,754

Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3490 Post(s)
Liked 2,910 Times in 1,766 Posts
Originally Posted by 79pmooney
If it's not bike cables and housing, I grab my straight edged cutter pliers. Too big or tough for those? The bolt cutters. (Used to race sailboats. I cut 1/8" SS wire, both 1X19 and the flexy stuff. Setting up a new rig - a lot. One of my favorite tools. a linesman's Nicropress swaging tool. Works like new and I've had it 50 years. It's joined more than one derailleur cable! Bike shops aren't always open when Ben's Bikes is operating.)

Thanks for your response. I am not sure I've ever heard whether others consider cutting housing OK with the Shimano/Park and likewise cable cutters. I just know it seems to be.
Yeah, we used the Shimanos routinely with housing as well as cable. Never any issues. I’m guessing the Parks are fine for that too. Never heard of the Nicropress tool. Have to check it out.
smd4 is offline  
Old 05-07-22, 11:57 AM
  #24  
etherhuffer 
Senior Member
 
etherhuffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Seattle
Posts: 1,420

Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker,81 Fuji Gran Tour SE, 83 Fuji S12S LTD, Voyageur 11.8 chrome, Raleigh R300 Touring, Voyageur 11.8

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 501 Times in 227 Posts
Originally Posted by 79pmooney
Are you opening the housing ends after cutting the housing to length? I use 14g/2.0mm spokes that I have cut to a convenient ~6" and sharpened one end. Poke this into the housing after cutting and filing the end square. (Here in Portland, they are called "pokey tools" and every mechanic has one. Some of us staple short lengths of housing to our tool boards to hold them.
Ah yes, made one of those

Better than a poke in the eye with a sharp spoke
Someday son, this awl will be yours

I even make sure to do a good sharp snap on the nippers to make sure I didn't mash the ends. The Jagwire coated wire was the worst for end fraying. So I dunno, may be just me. Not a big deal, just now prefer to buy them pre cut
etherhuffer is offline  
Old 05-07-22, 12:00 PM
  #25  
etherhuffer 
Senior Member
 
etherhuffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Seattle
Posts: 1,420

Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker,81 Fuji Gran Tour SE, 83 Fuji S12S LTD, Voyageur 11.8 chrome, Raleigh R300 Touring, Voyageur 11.8

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 501 Times in 227 Posts
Originally Posted by 79pmooney
If it's not bike cables and housing, I grab my straight edged cutter pliers. Too big or tough for those? The bolt cutters. (Used to race sailboats. I cut 1/8" SS wire, both 1X19 and the flexy stuff. Setting up a new rig - a lot. One of my favorite tools. a linesman's Nicropress swaging tool. Works like new and I've had it 50 years. It's joined more than one derailleur cable! Bike shops aren't always open when Ben's Bikes is operating.)

Thanks for your response. I am not sure I've ever heard whether others consider cutting housing OK with the Shimano/Park and likewise cable cutters. I just know it seems to be.
Oooooh a swaging tool! Gads, I can think of so many times I could have used a swaging tool around here. Just never got around to it. My wife has hanging baskets, been meaning to change string hangers to stainless wire, with swaging to hold them together.
etherhuffer is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.