Freewheel Brands
#26
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Recently, I purchased a Miyata that came with the original Suntour 6 speed freewheel and a newer 8 speed chain. Even though I cleaned and lubricated the freewheel and chain, the shifting was still awful! It took a few seconds to settle into some gears. I am not sure this was due to the square shaped teeth not mating well with a newer chain or the worn freewheel - though I did not see excessive wear on the teeth of the freewheel. I had the same issue with another 6 speed freewheel a long time ago, and since then, I always preferred a newer 7 and 8 speed system - I made an exception for this Miyata. I gave in and purchased a new 6 speed Sunrace freewheel. With the Sunrace freewheel, the shifting is smooth (though the freewheel itself is a little loud). Perhaps, I should not expect a vintage 6 speed system to shift like a more modern 7/8 speed system? How do I check if my freewheel is worn? The freewheel looks ok to me, as noted in the thread, that would be an evidence of the quality. But I could not make the shifting to work so I do not quite understand the praises for vintage freewheels in this thread. If you have any ideas or suggestions on why the original Suntour freewheel shifted poorly, please let me know. Here's the picture of the freewheels:...
What worked well with older chains up through the Sedisport era cannot be expected to work well with chains that are today twice as flexible laterally, even as the newer chains feature bulged sideplates.
What will help matters most is a derailer like a Shimano Deore or Huret Duopar, which can maintain a tight-enough chain gap while traversing wide-range freewheels.
I've found that many Suntour GT-cage derailers work best on even larger freewheels with their B-tension screw removed entirely, when using any modern chain.
And on other brands of vintage derailers, finding a way to adjust the derailer body angle without having a B-tension screw to play with (by tweaking spring tensions, or by modifying the stop lug on the derailer or claw hanger) was time very well spent!
Once the chain gap is tightened up, I further recommend adding some kind of polymer anti-friction noodle to any/all contact points between the cable and any metal guide surfaces, to give much better, more-accurate derailer movement in response to shift lever movement (this after oiling up the shifter's central pivot and friction surfaces).
so-ichiro, what derailer are you using?
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#27
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My best guess with the original Suntour GPX Accushift system on my 1989 Ironman: the squared off side plates of the original Suntour chain, and the squarish shaped teeth on the original Suntour Alpha 13-24 freewheel, would cause the chain to hang against the freewheel cog teeth for a split second, pivoting the rear derailleur cage under spring pressure, just for a moment. Then it would snap into position rather loudly.
Wow, that's awesome! I appreciate sharing your experience on this. I was getting a little frustrated with the shifting issue, and the second guessing this bike purchase.
#28
Junior Member
I work part time at an LBS and I see a LOT of misaligned/bent RD hangers. I've therefore realigned a lot of hangers and seen the improvement in shift and shifting response from that - both friction and indexed systems. I'm pretty fussy about alignments on my own bikes and I'm convinced that has been worth the time. So, be sure your RDs hanger is aligned. If you don't have the tools (eye balling this will not get you there) and experience ask your LBS to do it. At our shop that should cost $10 for aligning the hanger and $17 for adjusting the RD afterwards.
Lastly: I recently had a lot of bother with one Suntour FW. Mostly shifted well but the shift between two particular cogs was way too fussy. After all sorts of checking and testing I finally took the FW apart. Found that the spacer between those two cogs had been installed wrong. Fixed that and we were "off to the races". So stay open minded and careful what you assume.
#29
Junior Member
I've found that many Suntour GT-cage derailers work best on even larger freewheels with their B-tension screw removed entirely, when using any modern chain.
And on other brands of vintage derailers, finding a way to adjust the derailer body angle without having a B-tension screw to play with (by tweaking spring tensions, or by modifying the stop lug on the derailer or claw hanger) was time very well spent!
Once the chain gap is tightened up, I further recommend adding some kind of polymer anti-friction noodle to any/all contact points between the cable and any metal guide surfaces, to give much better, more-accurate derailer movement in response to shift lever movement (this after oiling up the shifter's central pivot and friction surfaces).
so-ichiro, what derailer are you using?
And on other brands of vintage derailers, finding a way to adjust the derailer body angle without having a B-tension screw to play with (by tweaking spring tensions, or by modifying the stop lug on the derailer or claw hanger) was time very well spent!
Once the chain gap is tightened up, I further recommend adding some kind of polymer anti-friction noodle to any/all contact points between the cable and any metal guide surfaces, to give much better, more-accurate derailer movement in response to shift lever movement (this after oiling up the shifter's central pivot and friction surfaces).
so-ichiro, what derailer are you using?
Here's a video of the freewheels in action:
#30
Me duelen las nalgas
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Ditto, dddd's advice.
Bar-end shifters can introduce a bit more friction and slop. I use Shimano 8-speed bar-end shifters on my favorite hybrid, an early '90s Univega, with a Shimano Exage 500CX (nearly identical to the Deore LX).
That bike originally came with cable liners, basically flexible straws just large enough to accommodate bare cables, but much smaller in diameter than conventional cable housing. As the original cable liners aged and cracked the shifting friction increased where the bare cable rubbed against metal guides.
For awhile I couldn't find any cable liners so I tried hollow plastic stems from cotton swabs. Turns out those work just as well. I use 'em on all my bikes wherever bare shifter or brake cable rubs against metal guides -- under the bottom bracket, the brazed on metal guides on the top tube and seat cluster where the top tube, seat tube and seat stays intersect, etc. Really helps reduce friction for shifting and braking, probably helps make the cables last longer too. I don't bother with any grease. Once in awhile I need to nudge the makeshift liners back into place -- over time with many shifts and braking cycles they creep a bit one way or another.
BTW, the KMC Z50 is closer to older style chains. The side plates still have a bit of chamfer on the inside edges, but not as fancy as their other chains. Might work a bit better with the original Suntour freewheels.
Bar-end shifters can introduce a bit more friction and slop. I use Shimano 8-speed bar-end shifters on my favorite hybrid, an early '90s Univega, with a Shimano Exage 500CX (nearly identical to the Deore LX).
That bike originally came with cable liners, basically flexible straws just large enough to accommodate bare cables, but much smaller in diameter than conventional cable housing. As the original cable liners aged and cracked the shifting friction increased where the bare cable rubbed against metal guides.
For awhile I couldn't find any cable liners so I tried hollow plastic stems from cotton swabs. Turns out those work just as well. I use 'em on all my bikes wherever bare shifter or brake cable rubs against metal guides -- under the bottom bracket, the brazed on metal guides on the top tube and seat cluster where the top tube, seat tube and seat stays intersect, etc. Really helps reduce friction for shifting and braking, probably helps make the cables last longer too. I don't bother with any grease. Once in awhile I need to nudge the makeshift liners back into place -- over time with many shifts and braking cycles they creep a bit one way or another.
BTW, the KMC Z50 is closer to older style chains. The side plates still have a bit of chamfer on the inside edges, but not as fancy as their other chains. Might work a bit better with the original Suntour freewheels.
#31
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I have a quick freewheel question so i though i would drop it here. Working on a vintage MTB build and need to complete the drivetrain with a new freewheel.
I'm upgrading the front thumbshifter and the rear derailleur to the Shimano Deore MT60 series. Single chainring on the front, no FD. Looking for a Shimano index compatible 6-speed freewheel and would love a recommendation. Gearing is not that important as the build is more of a cool grocery getter.
How do i know which vintage 6-speed freewheels are index compatible?
Thanks for your time.
I'm upgrading the front thumbshifter and the rear derailleur to the Shimano Deore MT60 series. Single chainring on the front, no FD. Looking for a Shimano index compatible 6-speed freewheel and would love a recommendation. Gearing is not that important as the build is more of a cool grocery getter.
How do i know which vintage 6-speed freewheels are index compatible?
Thanks for your time.
#32
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I have a quick freewheel question so i though i would drop it here. Working on a vintage MTB build and need to complete the drivetrain with a new freewheel.
I'm upgrading the front thumbshifter and the rear derailleur to the Shimano Deore MT60 series. Single chainring on the front, no FD. Looking for a Shimano index compatible 6-speed freewheel and would love a recommendation. Gearing is not that important as the build is more of a cool grocery getter.
How do i know which vintage 6-speed freewheels are index compatible?
Thanks for your time.
I'm upgrading the front thumbshifter and the rear derailleur to the Shimano Deore MT60 series. Single chainring on the front, no FD. Looking for a Shimano index compatible 6-speed freewheel and would love a recommendation. Gearing is not that important as the build is more of a cool grocery getter.
How do i know which vintage 6-speed freewheels are index compatible?
Thanks for your time.
Used freewheels can be a crapshoot.
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#33
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I have a quick freewheel question so i though i would drop it here. Working on a vintage MTB build and need to complete the drivetrain with a new freewheel.
I'm upgrading the front thumbshifter and the rear derailleur to the Shimano Deore MT60 series. Single chainring on the front, no FD. Looking for a Shimano index compatible 6-speed freewheel and would love a recommendation. Gearing is not that important as the build is more of a cool grocery getter.
How do i know which vintage 6-speed freewheels are index compatible?
Thanks for your time.
I'm upgrading the front thumbshifter and the rear derailleur to the Shimano Deore MT60 series. Single chainring on the front, no FD. Looking for a Shimano index compatible 6-speed freewheel and would love a recommendation. Gearing is not that important as the build is more of a cool grocery getter.
How do i know which vintage 6-speed freewheels are index compatible?
Thanks for your time.
According to Shimano's docs anything with small cog >=13T and large cog <=32t should be fine:
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...000-00-ENG.pdf
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#34
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I would buy a new Shimano 6speed freewheel instead of some used vintage ones. It's hard to judge wear on freewheel cogs.
According to Shimano's docs anything with small cog >=13T and large cog <=32t should be fine:
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...000-00-ENG.pdf
According to Shimano's docs anything with small cog >=13T and large cog <=32t should be fine:
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...000-00-ENG.pdf
Thanks again. Happy riding.
#35
Freewheel Medic
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A Sachs 6-speed freewheel should also index with Shimano index shifting.
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#36
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Others have written the same but I will add my observations and experiences to the good…..There is NO a comparison between the free wheels made today and the good ones from when they were a current product. It is well worth looking for something older and of quality. My favorites for high quality were the Maillard 700 and it’s successor branded as Sachs and the Regina CX /CXS which became the America model. On the Maillard 700, you can even flip most of the cogs likely to wear and get a whole second life from them. Once you have a quality freewheel(s) change the chain very early in the wear cycle as it is replaceable, but doing so will greatly extend the life of the freewheel cogs. Treat them as an irreplaceable asset, because they nearly are. I love freewheels for some strange reason. A couple of years ago, I was lucky enough to come across the pictured Maillard 700 6 speed kit that allowed you to assemble a freewheel in a number of configurations. Fun stuff.
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#37
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Great advice El Chaba ! Let me also add my two cents to your great advice:
Remove the sprockets from the freewheel body and clean them, at least yearly, and more frequently when riding in dirty conditions. The combination of a clean and well lubed chain, clean sprockets, as well as clean chainrings, and RD jockey wheels and pulleys, increase the life of all the drivetrain bits exponentially.
Remove the sprockets from the freewheel body and clean them, at least yearly, and more frequently when riding in dirty conditions. The combination of a clean and well lubed chain, clean sprockets, as well as clean chainrings, and RD jockey wheels and pulleys, increase the life of all the drivetrain bits exponentially.
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#38
señor miembro
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Shimano still makes a 6 speed freewheel. Here's one - Shimano 6 Speed Freewheel Sunrace would also work with indexing.
#39
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what marketing genius came up this idea. has the exact opposite effect. I refuse to purchase one.
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@SurferRosa, I agree. I think there is still a segment of the market that sees SHIMANO and automatically equates it with better.
I haven't done this, but I wouldn't hesitate to take that large cog to my wire wheel and knock the branding off. At least Sunrace offers shiny ones.
I haven't done this, but I wouldn't hesitate to take that large cog to my wire wheel and knock the branding off. At least Sunrace offers shiny ones.
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A couple more thoughts/observations on the subject…..In looking for vintage freewheels, it is always helpful to know if they have standard or narrow spacing if a 6 speed…( narrow being a 6 speed freewheel designed to fit in the space of a 5 speed, I.e. a 120 mm rear hub). You may come across a Shimano Dura Ace freewheel. These were probably the models with the highest level of precision machining of any freewheel body ever made. You may also come across a SunTour Winner. These freewheels also featured very precise bodies. There was a less expensive SunTour Perfect model which was not bad at all. In general, the Japanese freewheels seemed to have softer cogs and didn’t wear quite as well as say Regina or Maillard (Sachs). I would look at these carefully for cog wear as this far down the road wear is VERY likely to be a factor.
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And btw i couldn't agree more with the look of the new shimano freewheels with the writing on the granny gear. Horrid. Thx everyone.
#43
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I don't build or rebuild rear hubs that take a freewheel anymore. I have 1 bike that has a freewheel now that will probably outlive me.
Somebody had to say it.
Somebody had to say it.
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