Source for wheel cartridge bearing
#1
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Source for wheel cartridge bearing
Does anyone have a source for these? I have a set of Vision Team 35's that apparently use MR021 cartridge bearings but I can't seem to find them anywhere online.
#2
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Forget trying to locate them using the manufacturer’s part number.
Remove the bearings and measure the ID, OD and thickness.
There are any number of bearing houses who would be happy to sell you exactly what you need.
Remove the bearings and measure the ID, OD and thickness.
There are any number of bearing houses who would be happy to sell you exactly what you need.
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I'd agree with going by dimensions and knowledge of the type of bearing needed (does it take only radial load and feel symmetric - seemingly - or it in an angular contact one that only comes into running tolerance when loaded axially in the correct direction by the installation - you can probably feel the difference)
However searching on MR021 and ignoring the forklift roller uses of the term does seem to find some information.
Don't rely on this, but I'm seeing hints that it's perhaps a 12x24 mm deep grove ball radial ball bearing 6mm thick, and comparable to a 6901-RS
And there are plenty of bike sellers offering things they call MR021 for front wheel hub applications at reasonable prices.
However searching on MR021 and ignoring the forklift roller uses of the term does seem to find some information.
Don't rely on this, but I'm seeing hints that it's perhaps a 12x24 mm deep grove ball radial ball bearing 6mm thick, and comparable to a 6901-RS
And there are plenty of bike sellers offering things they call MR021 for front wheel hub applications at reasonable prices.
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Google is your friend. An easier option is to see if the dust shield on side of the bearing has a number on it. Make sure you look under good light!
Keep in mind that removing bearings is considered the end of the useful life of cartridge bearings. If there's some doubt as to whether there's useful life left, try to find that bearing code first.
Keep in mind that removing bearings is considered the end of the useful life of cartridge bearings. If there's some doubt as to whether there's useful life left, try to find that bearing code first.
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According to the 2018 FSA dealer catalog, that's a 6901 bearing, so I think any 6901 will work. If you ever have to do the rear wheel, it uses two 6001 bearings (DS) in addition to the 6901 (NDS). The catalog is here: https://issuu.com/fsa-fullspeedahead...___fsa__vision
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I've used this seller for other bearings, and was pleased at the quantities and prices offered.
Fast Eddy Bearings
Bearings are an industrial commodity, though, so absolutely shop around.
Fast Eddy Bearings
Bearings are an industrial commodity, though, so absolutely shop around.
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If the bearings have rubber seals, the bearing number may be embossed on them. As noted any of several industrial supply houses can match them in a variety of quality grades and at much lower cost than a bike shop. Try Grainger, McMaster-Carr, Bearings Inc. etc.
Note bearing quality is rated by "ABEC" numbers with the higher numbers indicating tighter tolerances (and higher cost). Bicycle bearings have a very low demand for load, speed and temperature so don't over buy. ABEC 3 bearing are more than sufficient.
Note bearing quality is rated by "ABEC" numbers with the higher numbers indicating tighter tolerances (and higher cost). Bicycle bearings have a very low demand for load, speed and temperature so don't over buy. ABEC 3 bearing are more than sufficient.
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Putting them on should be done by finding a piece of thick wall tubing or sleeve or something so that you can push on the inner race only.
Also preheating bearings to make them expand every so slightly to slide on to the room temperature axle is very much standard practice... you can buy bearing heaters, but I used a hair dryer and decided that so long as I could still touch them they were probably not too hot. Some more plasticy seals might not like that though.
Last edited by UniChris; 01-26-22 at 03:15 PM.
#10
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Thank you all for your quick and helpful responses!! I was going nowhere looking for the manufacture's part number.
Fast Eddy was a great suggestion. I ordered them there.
Fast Eddy was a great suggestion. I ordered them there.
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If it should be 6901-RS or 6901-2RS seems to depend on where you look.
The distinction is that the -2RS will have seals on both sides, while the -RS would only have one on what should probably be the outside, theoretically letting you add grease from the inside face.
It happens that pragmatically speaking you can also typically pop the seals off and add grease then put them back, anyway.
The distinction is that the -2RS will have seals on both sides, while the -RS would only have one on what should probably be the outside, theoretically letting you add grease from the inside face.
It happens that pragmatically speaking you can also typically pop the seals off and add grease then put them back, anyway.