Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Show Us Your Vintage Cannondale!

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Show Us Your Vintage Cannondale!

Old 11-10-21, 09:34 AM
  #1226  
Rooney 
Full Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NYC
Posts: 402

Bikes: '72 Raleigh Super Course; '90 Cannondale ST1000; '98/99 Cannondale T700; 2002 Cannondale CAAD5 R700; 2022 Cannondale Topstone 2L

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 162 Post(s)
Liked 337 Times in 152 Posts
Thanks! It certainly took me a few years of casual searching to find this 25" frame. Even then, there were some logistics to get it shipped across the country.
Rooney is offline  
Old 11-29-21, 03:46 PM
  #1227  
Rooney 
Full Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NYC
Posts: 402

Bikes: '72 Raleigh Super Course; '90 Cannondale ST1000; '98/99 Cannondale T700; 2002 Cannondale CAAD5 R700; 2022 Cannondale Topstone 2L

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 162 Post(s)
Liked 337 Times in 152 Posts
I'm not sure if scans of these instructions exist elsewhere, but they were included with the bike when I bought it. I thought it could be useful to share them here.

I also made some progress on the ST1000 to get it riding. Bought cable guides from vintagecannondale.com to replace the middle one and ordered a pump peg from eBay for the headtube as the original was missing. It'll probably be a slow build over the winter. I'm thinking faceted fenders and 32mm tires — maybe some burgundy/gumwall Fairweather Travellers. Unsure of what to do with the frame pump color, so it's staying orange for a little while longer. I certainly need a different saddle and longer stem. Need to decide on bar tape color as well as order 48/38/28 chainrings. I'm thinking of running a gold chain as well and maybe upgrading to a 9-speed cassette.



Rooney is offline  
Likes For Rooney:
Old 11-29-21, 05:08 PM
  #1228  
curbtender
Senior Member
 
curbtender's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 8,682

Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball

Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1590 Post(s)
Liked 2,486 Times in 1,188 Posts
https://chico.craigslist.org/bop/d/c...396292472.html

Cannondale saddlebags - $80 (Chico)

curbtender is offline  
Old 11-30-21, 08:13 AM
  #1229  
ehcoplex 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 1,823

Bikes: '38 Schwinn New World, ’69 Peugeot PX-10, '72 Peugeot PX-10, ‘7? Valgan, '78 Raleigh Comp GS, ’79 Holdsworth Pro, ’80 Peugeot TH-8 tandem, '87 Trek 400T, ‘7? Raleigh Sports, ‘7? Raleigh Superbe, ‘6? Hercules

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 756 Post(s)
Liked 1,535 Times in 745 Posts
Originally Posted by Rooney
Just one (low quality) teaser pic for now; 1990 ST1000. The rear brakes appear to have plenty of vertical adjustment for a 27 to 700 conversion, but there's some work to be done. I'll be moving most of the parts over from my Voyageur SP, but first, the bike needs to be cleaned up a bit. Very excited to finally have tracked one of these down. Far from a deal, but who cares?
Do the 1990 touring frames have dimples on the inside of the chain-stays? How wide can you go with tires & fenders on it would you guess? I can just fit 38c tires on my '97 T900 (interestingly, the '97 catalog lists 38c tires as stock on the T900, but I really can't imagine Cannondale letting bikes go out the door with the extremely minimal clearance I have- they must have been using narrower 38c tires..... ). The 23" frame is just a tad small for me, so I'm casually casting about for a 25" frame, but really want to be able to still ride on 38s. From what I can gather, the earlier touring frames didn't have the inside dimples and can't clear wider tires, but I'm not clear on when the change happened....
ehcoplex is offline  
Old 11-30-21, 11:55 AM
  #1230  
Rooney 
Full Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NYC
Posts: 402

Bikes: '72 Raleigh Super Course; '90 Cannondale ST1000; '98/99 Cannondale T700; 2002 Cannondale CAAD5 R700; 2022 Cannondale Topstone 2L

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 162 Post(s)
Liked 337 Times in 152 Posts
There are indeed dimples on the inside of the chainstays. The bike currently has 35c tires and could probably go to 38, but I think it would have the same clearance issues you're experiencing. I'm sure I could finagle fenders with the 35s, but it'd be a tight fit, which is why I plan to run 32s with fenders. I recall seeing a '99 T1000 on Flickr that could clear 38s — I can't remember with or without fenders. I picked up an '89 ST600 for my brother a couple of months back that does not have chainstay dimples. I'm not sure if it's a year distinction or caliper vs canti brake thing.

Clearance at chainstay bridge showing dimples; it was difficult getting an accurate representation. I think I could go to 38c, but it would be very tight.
Rooney is offline  
Likes For Rooney:
Old 11-30-21, 06:35 PM
  #1231  
ehcoplex 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 1,823

Bikes: '38 Schwinn New World, ’69 Peugeot PX-10, '72 Peugeot PX-10, ‘7? Valgan, '78 Raleigh Comp GS, ’79 Holdsworth Pro, ’80 Peugeot TH-8 tandem, '87 Trek 400T, ‘7? Raleigh Sports, ‘7? Raleigh Superbe, ‘6? Hercules

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 756 Post(s)
Liked 1,535 Times in 745 Posts
Originally Posted by Rooney

Clearance at chainstay bridge showing dimples; it was difficult getting an accurate representation. I think I could go to 38c, but it would be very tight.
Yeah, that looks about the same clearance as my '97 T900. 38c will work with fenders on mine with the fenders stopping at the chainstay (as opposed to extending below...).
ehcoplex is offline  
Old 11-30-21, 11:34 PM
  #1232  
kanawa 
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 110
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times in 12 Posts
1995 Cannondale Team Motorola / Steve Bauer

kanawa is offline  
Likes For kanawa:
Old 12-01-21, 11:45 AM
  #1233  
tombc
Full Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 295
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked 63 Times in 28 Posts
tombc is offline  
Old 12-14-21, 11:43 AM
  #1234  
oldtimeyirv
Cannon-dad
 
oldtimeyirv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 47

Bikes: Cannondales, Columbus Schwinn, old GTs, too many

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 29 Times in 12 Posts
1989 SR500 ⚡ Black Lightning ⚡

This was in pretty rough shape when I got it. No wheels, no seatpost, all original components. I plan to get it powder coated and modernize it with a collection of 105. Currently battling a seized BB. Slowly getting the better of it thanks to all the knowledge here and a very big hammer.

What can you guys tell me about the Black Lightning? Was it just a marketing thing or was there anything unique about the bikes? I know the SR500 was kind of entry level, but I've seen higher end models with the Black Lightning also. Thanks!

Photos are of my current battle with the BB. Evidently previous owners didn't keep the derailleurs adjusted... The paint is gnarly!


oldtimeyirv is offline  
Old 12-14-21, 05:33 PM
  #1235  
brandenjs
WV is not flat..
 
brandenjs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Charles Town,Wv.
Posts: 1,418

Bikes: 1 away from divorce!

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 150 Post(s)
Liked 422 Times in 173 Posts
Originally Posted by oldtimeyirv
This was in pretty rough shape when I got it. No wheels, no seatpost, all original components. I plan to get it powder coated and modernize it with a collection of 105. Currently battling a seized BB. Slowly getting the better of it thanks to all the knowledge here and a very big hammer.

What can you guys tell me about the Black Lightning? Was it just a marketing thing or was there anything unique about the bikes? I know the SR500 was kind of entry level, but I've seen higher end models with the Black Lightning also. Thanks!

Photos are of my current battle with the BB. Evidently previous owners didn't keep the derailleurs adjusted... The paint is gnarly!

I've had a couple of them over the years and have kept this 1987 model. They were a special edition with some unique gold and black components, but the frames were the same for the other models. I have since upgraded mine to 7 speed Microshift with 105 derailleurs. These frames are stiff and excellent climbers though a bit harsh for longer rides. It has always been one of my grail bikes.
brandenjs is offline  
Likes For brandenjs:
Old 12-14-21, 06:44 PM
  #1236  
Roger M
Banned.
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Snohomish, WA.
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 469 Post(s)
Liked 2,439 Times in 646 Posts
Just finished servicing this 1989 SR series.

due to the weather, I have only ridden it up and down the driveway.

Roger M is offline  
Old 12-15-21, 08:05 AM
  #1237  
oldtimeyirv
Cannon-dad
 
oldtimeyirv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 47

Bikes: Cannondales, Columbus Schwinn, old GTs, too many

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 29 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by brandenjs
I've had a couple of them over the years and have kept this 1987 model. They were a special edition with some unique gold and black components, but the frames were the same for the other models. I have since upgraded mine to 7 speed Microshift with 105 derailleurs. These frames are stiff and excellent climbers though a bit harsh for longer rides. It has always been one of my grail bikes.
I really like using the frames as a base to build from! They are great to match up with modern wheels and componentry.
oldtimeyirv is offline  
Likes For oldtimeyirv:
Old 12-15-21, 08:12 AM
  #1238  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,852
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2151 Post(s)
Liked 3,380 Times in 1,198 Posts
Agreed!
Here's an 88 SR that I built up with 5800 11-speed for my former spin instructor:

__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
rccardr is offline  
Old 12-15-21, 09:38 AM
  #1239  
oldtimeyirv
Cannon-dad
 
oldtimeyirv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 47

Bikes: Cannondales, Columbus Schwinn, old GTs, too many

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 29 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by rccardr
Agreed!
Here's an 88 SR that I built up with 5800 11-speed for my former spin instructor:

Great frame, looks awesome! I have one just like it waiting its turn for new life. Did you repaint/powder coat it? The original paint on mine is bubbled and scrapes off very easily.
oldtimeyirv is offline  
Likes For oldtimeyirv:
Old 12-15-21, 12:59 PM
  #1240  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,852
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2151 Post(s)
Liked 3,380 Times in 1,198 Posts
Did that several years ago and don’t remember but was probably powder coated, finish looks too nice to be original.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
rccardr is offline  
Old 12-16-21, 05:11 PM
  #1241  
EnzoRWD
enginerd
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: MKE
Posts: 729

Bikes: officially too many now...

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 90 Post(s)
Liked 127 Times in 42 Posts
Originally Posted by OutnBack
Picked this one up not long ago. The previous owner installed 9 speed Dura Ace barcons, which don't play well w/ the 6 speed freewheel. The blue sparkle paint & silhouetted decals don't match anything in the Cannondale catalogs. Other than the shifters, it came w/ full Shimano 600 components. The plan was to pass it along to my son after I got it dialed in, but he just found another bike he enjoys, so not sure if this will be a keeper or not.
Any chance you can tell me what the model and serial is? I have a frame with the same sparkle blue and silhouetted CANNONDALE on the top tube that doesn't match any catalog. It has an ST400 chainstay protector and a July 30 1985 serial. Trying to figure out what model year this bike was supposed to be.
EnzoRWD is offline  
Old 12-16-21, 05:54 PM
  #1242  
OutnBack
Full Member
 
OutnBack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Metro Atlanta
Posts: 343

Bikes: 83 Diamond Back Ridge Runner, 85 Rockhopper, 85 Schwinn Cimarron, 89 Stumpjumper Comp, 91 Bridgestone RBT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 108 Times in 61 Posts
Originally Posted by EnzoRWD
Any chance you can tell me what the model and serial is? I have a frame with the same sparkle blue and silhouetted CANNONDALE on the top tube that doesn't match any catalog. It has an ST400 chainstay protector and a July 30 1985 serial. Trying to figure out what model year this bike was supposed to be.
Sorry, but I ended up selling the Cannondale a while back. Others here might be able to assist.
OutnBack is offline  
Old 01-06-22, 01:14 PM
  #1243  
Andy_K 
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,787

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 522 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3228 Post(s)
Liked 3,853 Times in 1,436 Posts
I got this 1990 ST400 about a month ago. It had all the original components, including the tires. Lots of chips in the paint, but otherwise it was in very good shape. The original components were painfully heavy, so I decided to go with an updated 3x10 build.



My touch-up paint isn't a perfect match, but it looks really good from a distance or in poor lighting. I also touched up the decal with white nail polish, but didn't put enough effort into that. I could probably improve both the paint and the decal with some patience, but I'm not sure I'll bother. In the light of day, it looks like this:



I acquired a set of Shimano CX-70 cantilever brakes for the build, but then at the last minute I decided I wanted to try mini V's so I bought a set of Tektro RX6's. I really like the feel of V-brakes -- much better than cantilevers. Mini-V's are supposed to give you that feel while working with road levers. How well they do that depends on your tolerance for tight rim clearance. I've only had this out for a few hundred yards up and down the street, but the power of the brakes is outstanding. The rim clearance on the other hand.... Let's just say the wheel will need to stay perfectly true. My wheelbuilder (me) comes along on all my rides, but I don't think this is suitable for touring. We'll see.



The drivetrain is Shimano 10-speed with an FSA Gossamer crankset that I recently polished.





The build, as shown above, including bell, mirror, and bottle cages, comes in at 22.25 pounds. I didn't think to weigh it in original condition, but it was heavy. The Cannondale catalog claimed it weighed 25.5 pounds (and that was without accessories).

Finally, a couple of acknowledgements are in order. The saddle was given to me by @RustyJames and the Crank Brothers pedals (which look like they might never have been used before) were given to me by @Dfrost. Many thanks to both of you.
__________________
My Bikes
Andy_K is offline  
Old 01-06-22, 01:34 PM
  #1244  
ehcoplex 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 1,823

Bikes: '38 Schwinn New World, ’69 Peugeot PX-10, '72 Peugeot PX-10, ‘7? Valgan, '78 Raleigh Comp GS, ’79 Holdsworth Pro, ’80 Peugeot TH-8 tandem, '87 Trek 400T, ‘7? Raleigh Sports, ‘7? Raleigh Superbe, ‘6? Hercules

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 756 Post(s)
Liked 1,535 Times in 745 Posts
Originally Posted by Andy_K
I got this 1990 ST400 about a month ago. It had all the original components, including the tires. Lots of chips in the paint, but otherwise it was in very good shape. The original components were painfully heavy, so I decided to go with an updated 3x10 build.

Nice! What size tires are you running on it? The polished crankset looks great- tempts me to polish the one on my '97 T900...
ehcoplex is offline  
Old 01-06-22, 01:47 PM
  #1245  
Andy_K 
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,787

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 522 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3228 Post(s)
Liked 3,853 Times in 1,436 Posts
Originally Posted by ehcoplex
Nice! What size tires are you running on it? The polished crankset looks great- tempts me to polish the one on my '97 T900...
They're nominally 700x28, but being Conti GP 4000s, they measure closer to 30mm wide. I'm looking at options for 700x32 or 700x35 -- maybe René Herse Bon Jon Pass.
__________________
My Bikes
Andy_K is offline  
Likes For Andy_K:
Old 01-06-22, 01:58 PM
  #1246  
ehcoplex 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 1,823

Bikes: '38 Schwinn New World, ’69 Peugeot PX-10, '72 Peugeot PX-10, ‘7? Valgan, '78 Raleigh Comp GS, ’79 Holdsworth Pro, ’80 Peugeot TH-8 tandem, '87 Trek 400T, ‘7? Raleigh Sports, ‘7? Raleigh Superbe, ‘6? Hercules

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 756 Post(s)
Liked 1,535 Times in 745 Posts
Originally Posted by Andy_K
They're nominally 700x28, but being Conti GP 4000s, they measure closer to 30mm wide. I'm looking at options for 700x32 or 700x35 -- maybe René Herse Bon Jon Pass.
I'm not sure what the geometry changes were between '90 & '97, but I seem to recall there were some... I was able to just barely shoehorn Barlow Pass tires (38c) into my '97, and it made the ride heavenly- it really transformed the bike for me! Eventually I decided that the clearance at the chainstays was juuuuuust a little to tight (something like 2, maybe 3mm/side) so I dropped to the Bon Jon Pass, which have plenty of room. I did notice a difference in the ride quality, but it's still very nice! In both cases there was room for fenders, though again, tight clearances with the 38c.
ehcoplex is offline  
Likes For ehcoplex:
Old 01-06-22, 02:15 PM
  #1247  
Roger M
Banned.
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Snohomish, WA.
Posts: 2,997
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 469 Post(s)
Liked 2,439 Times in 646 Posts
Originally Posted by Andy_K

I acquired a set of Shimano CX-70 cantilever brakes for the build, but then at the last minute I decided I wanted to try mini V's so I bought a set of Tektro RX6's. I really like the feel of V-brakes -- much better than cantilevers. Mini-V's are supposed to give you that feel while working with road levers.
That turned out great, Andy. Good choices in the parts.

If I understand you correctly, these brakes work well with traditional road levers? That would be good to know.

How do you like those Sram brake levers? I have a set, and the seem to feel right in my large(ish) hands. However, I can't bring myself to use them on an old steel frame. They do look better on an aluminum frame.
Roger M is offline  
Old 01-06-22, 05:19 PM
  #1248  
RustyJames 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,443

Bikes: You had me at rusty and Italian!!

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 559 Post(s)
Liked 1,032 Times in 534 Posts
Originally Posted by Andy_K
I got this 1990 ST400 about a month ago. It had all the original components, including the tires. Lots of chips in the paint, but otherwise it was in very good shape. The original components were painfully heavy, so I decided to go with an updated 3x10 build.



My touch-up paint isn't a perfect match, but it looks really good from a distance or in poor lighting. I also touched up the decal with white nail polish, but didn't put enough effort into that. I could probably improve both the paint and the decal with some patience, but I'm not sure I'll bother. In the light of day, it looks like this:



I acquired a set of Shimano CX-70 cantilever brakes for the build, but then at the last minute I decided I wanted to try mini V's so I bought a set of Tektro RX6's. I really like the feel of V-brakes -- much better than cantilevers. Mini-V's are supposed to give you that feel while working with road levers. How well they do that depends on your tolerance for tight rim clearance. I've only had this out for a few hundred yards up and down the street, but the power of the brakes is outstanding. The rim clearance on the other hand.... Let's just say the wheel will need to stay perfectly true. My wheelbuilder (me) comes along on all my rides, but I don't think this is suitable for touring. We'll see.



The drivetrain is Shimano 10-speed with an FSA Gossamer crankset that I recently polished.





The build, as shown above, including bell, mirror, and bottle cages, comes in at 22.25 pounds. I didn't think to weigh it in original condition, but it was heavy. The Cannondale catalog claimed it weighed 25.5 pounds (and that was without accessories).

Finally, a couple of acknowledgements are in order. The saddle was given to me by @RustyJames and the Crank Brothers pedals (which look like they might never have been used before) were given to me by @Dfrost. Many thanks to both of you.
Looks great @Andy_K! Glad to help.
RustyJames is offline  
Old 01-06-22, 05:35 PM
  #1249  
Andy_K 
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,787

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 522 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3228 Post(s)
Liked 3,853 Times in 1,436 Posts
Originally Posted by Roger M
If I understand you correctly, these brakes work well with traditional road levers? That would be good to know.
I can't give an unconditional endorsement of these brakes with road levers. The issue is cable pull. I completely geeked out on brake cable pull a few years ago, so I had some idea what it was going to take when I started this. As you probably know, traditional V-brakes require a lot more cable pull than road brakes. Mini V brakes were intended to address that problem, but they don't entirely do it. One issue is that the amount of brake cable pull varies from one brake lever to the next. You can also get mini V brakes in different lengths. These are 90 mm, which is about the limit of what can be considered "mini" -- traditional V brakes are generally in the 105-115 mm range. You can get minis as short as 80 mm. The longer brakes have more mechanical advantage, but they don't move the pads as far for a given amount of cable pull, so the longer the brake the more cable you need your levers to be able to pull.

I first tried these brakes on this bike with Tektro RL340 levers, which Tektro kind of implies should be compatible on their website (https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=49), but I couldn't get the pads close enough to the rim without rubbing and not have the lever bottom out. The SRAM levers pull a bit more cable, and I was able to get them to work, but there's still very little gap between the pads and the rim -- maybe a millimeter. I had to true the wheels a bit to get them to spin without rubbing anywhere. In theory, newer Shimano STIs pull more cable and they're likely to work a bit better with this brake.

On the other hand, the power (per hand force input) is just ridiculous. On my test ride up and down the block, when I gave the lever a quick and firm squeeze my body weight lurched forward enough to scare me for a second. I know a lot of people would hate that, but that's what I wanted. I hate single pivot side pulls because you have to squeeze the lever so freaking hard to get maximum braking power. I prefer to squeeze gently and get results. I'm sure you remember driving cars without power brakes, right? That's the kind of difference I'm talking about between these brakes and cantilevers (no matter how perfectly you have the cantilevers set up). Both will stop you just fine, but the feel is a lot different. I'm sure when power brakes first started becoming ubiquitous in cars there were a lot of retro grouches who hated how responsive they were. Now, if you put most people in a car without power brakes they'd think something was broken.

So...if you pick the right brake lever, and you don't mind having the pads really, really close to the rim, and you like very responsive brakes, these brakes work really well.


Originally Posted by Roger M
How do you like those Sram brake levers? I have a set, and the seem to feel right in my large(ish) hands. However, I can't bring myself to use them on an old steel frame. They do look better on an aluminum frame.
Like I said above, they were a choice of necessity. I've had them for years and haven't used them since I gave up singlespeed cyclocross racing. I don't like black levers, but I think they look OK on this bike. They feel OK when I'm riding.
__________________
My Bikes

Last edited by Andy_K; 01-07-22 at 02:30 AM.
Andy_K is offline  
Likes For Andy_K:
Old 01-07-22, 12:49 AM
  #1250  
JacobLee 
Total Scrounge
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 900

Bikes: 71 International 72 Super Course 83 Gap

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 924 Times in 310 Posts
Any reason those front brake pads are on the wrong side?
JacobLee is offline  
Likes For JacobLee:

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.