Roger M

So my new favorite bike has a 120mm spaced rear end. It was equipped with a Suntour Winner 13-26 5 speed freewheel. I have a 14-28 5 speed freewheel that I installed to get a little better gearing.

Also included with the bike were the pieces pictured. A NOS Ultra 6 13-216 freewheel and two 6 speed cogs(28t & 32t). It's my understanding that these were manufactured specifically for 120mm spacing?

I want to put these parts to use, so I will have a 32 tooth bailout. Can I take this apart(and reassemble) without any special tools? What cog would I need between the 21 and 28t, possibly a 24? If anyone can point me towards a tutorial, I'd be grateful.

An Ultra 6 chain was also included, but I will most probably use and 8 speed chain(or 9 if I can get away with it).

Also, a source for new cogs? I wouldn't mind finding a 24, 26, and 30t....

C9H13N 

this thread has a nice picture of the Suntour cog board.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-6-fwheel.html

only the 2 largest cogs on a New Winner FW are splined like the loose cogs you have (“A”).

the 4th position cog on ultra-6 is a threaded “R” and the largest available was 21 teeth. You won’t be able to use the 28 and 32 together without a giant jump from 21-28 in the middle.

You could use the 32 with a 24 or 26 “A” and 20 or 21 “R”. You have a 21 “A” on the complete freewheel and won’t be able to combine it with the large cogs.

My Davidson wears a 13-32 NW ultra-6.
13-15-18-21-26-32.

It will almost certainly be more effective to buy the combination you want as a complete freewheel.

pastorbobnlnh 

The Winner on the left in your picture is the first generation in the "Winner" family (i.e. Winner, New Winner, Winner (3r Gen.) and Winner Pro). The sprockets on it look to be worn. Generally, IME, the teeth show wear first on the spoke side long before showing wear on the drop out side. Your Winner shows wear and it's probably ready for permanent retirement. But I'd try to remove the sprockets first using two chainwhips, to examine the underside in order to see if any of the sprockets have any life left. The bodies on the 1st Gen Winners are basically impossible to service.

The New Winner on the right, can have the sprockets changed as C9H13N states above with the four smallest being threaded and the two largest being splined. Finding the threaded silver sprockets can be a challenge.

As a point of information, the two smallest sprockets on Suntour Perfect and ProCompe models are threaded and match the threads on the New Winner body for the 2nd-4th positions. Generally, they are not a silver finish (normally bronze or gold), only came in 14T, 15T, 17T, and 18T, and came with either standard or ultra (thickness) built in spacers. Likewise, the Perfect and ProCompe splined sprockets (which don't have built in spacers) can be mounted on the Winner family of bodies in their largest splined position. I share this, so if you want, you can cannibalize Perfect and ProCompe for the gearing you want.

For instance, this is a ProCompe (body is sized for Ultra spacing) on which I mixed Suntour sprockets to build a 17-20-25-30-34-38 (IIRC) mountain climber.

Ex Pres 

The U6 is just a little wider than a 5 - make sure the cogs aren't rubbing the inside of your chainstay at the dropout /stay junction. If the stay is domed on the inside, this often is a problem. On bikes without integral hangers, I've had the U6 freewheel rub on the separate hanger hardware, too.

steelbikeguy

I've got some spare 24, 26, and 30 tooth splined cogs, if you get to the point that you need to buy parts.

I assume you'll make some adjustments to the other cogs too, though. As the cog board drawing indicates, you'll need to find the right type of the threaded cogs to match your setup.

Steve in Peoria