jorglueke

Without force and irreversible damage anyway. I wonder if it can get powder coated over it?

Phloom

Just drill out the rivets. Pretty easy to do. Since I don't have a rivet gun, I used a couple plastic pins and glue to reattach. You shouldn’t powder coat over an emblem.

DrIsotope

Drilling out the rivets is easy... so long as you have the proper size rivets to put the badge back on.

dandak

Looks to me like its just a soft rivet. I get rivets like that out by slowly drilling them out. The problem is they often spin with the bit instead of getting drilled, thats why you have to go one bit size at a time, using 'number' bits instead of fractional bits. Alternatively you can reach down through the tube and with a sharp rounded chisel try to shear the back of the rivet off with a few hits on the chisel from a hammer, then from the front pry the old rivet head off. You could also put a small (1/8" diameter) grinding stone on a dremel style mototool and carefully grind the front of the head off.

jorglueke

Ahh thanks. So I should be able to get a replacement rivet easily? I will go with the slow drill approach.

3alarmer 

...no. Replacement rivets are a problem, which is why a lot of people use glue. Small drive screws are also suggested as a workable alternative. It's a problem, and AFAIK you can't access the original type rivets. most stuff you can get extends too far into the head tube, and interferes with the steerer.

AnkleWork

Search "pop rivet." Lots of sizes and styles.

FBinNY 

I drill out the rivets and reattach with small brass screws and nuts. It's usually necessary to file down the nut inside the head tube to clear the fork, but that's like a 1 minute job with a half round file.

BTW - I apply some glue (rim cement) under the nut before tightening, and have never had one move.

Retro Grouch 

3M Badge and Trim Cement.

squirtdad

often are bigger than original rivet and get in the way of steerer tube in my experience

02Giant 

I would grind it off from inside the head tube. You will not risk any damage that way.

TimothyH

3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive AKA "Yellow Death" and that emblem is not coming off.

southpier

3M VHB tape - just like the emblems & badges on every car on the road today

3M? VHB? Tapes

if you ever want to take it off, use a piece of dental floss and slice it away

ThermionicScott 

Looks sort of like the eyelets used on old-style electronics (1940s/1950s), which are still made. Could those do the job?

Example: https://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catal...rdBuilding.htm

hokiefyd 

If you use trim/emblem adhesive intended for cars and trucks (check Advance or AutoZone), that badge will stay firmly affixed to the head tube! I wouldn't try to re-rivet or nut/bolt due to issues noted above.

wschruba

Drive screws work fine...properly installed, they don't fall out (but if you need to buy a set of letter/number bits to install it, well, it's not worth it). They're readily available from Grainger (or McMaster Carr, but it's best to order from them only if you are local...). Of course, unlike Francis' brass screws, they're usually not available at the local hardware store, so you're stuck with a bag of 100-500 of them.

If you do decide to go with drive screws, use a worn out nailset to install them--they cup around the fastener head, and don't dent it, like a flat punch will.

jorglueke

I'll probably go this route once it comes back from the painter.

fietsbob

those rivets started out as short pieces of metal tubing.. to make an inside head of a solid rivet,

you would want a heavy steel bar or tube inside the head to be like your anvil..




Art Metal working , I discovered the "snarling Iron" ... it is a long 'S' bent piece of steel , I made mine , Blacksmithing .

you clamp one end in the bench vise, and the other end goes inside a small otherwise inaccessible space

by hitting the part of it close to where it is clamped in the vise, with a hammer, the other end springs up
striking the inside of, in this case the rivet you want to set...
[The physics is pretty straightforward]

veloz

1 minute drill job to remove. For replacements I use tiny(!) self tapping screws. They're hard to find - I used to get them at RadioShack. Better lugged Schwinns used tiny screws on head badges.

Doug5150

This is what I was going to say... Drilling never works for me, the rivet always ends up spinning.

It's less hassle to just put a cutoff wheel on a Dremel and carefully grind the head end of the rivet down until the edge breaks away, without harming the badge itself.

jorglueke

I drilled it, slowly with no issues