2021 Post your Single Speed and Fixed Gear Thread
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03-26-21, 07:31 AM
#178
Not lost wanderer.
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This was built as a Covid quarantine build. The paint sucked so I stripped it and repainted it
Before
After, the rattle can paint and a different headset. I also moved the chainring outboard on the crankset.
Before
After, the rattle can paint and a different headset. I also moved the chainring outboard on the crankset.
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03-26-21, 07:57 AM
#179
Go Ride!
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really like the clean look that coaster brake gives the build! Nice touch with the alternate fork color.
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03-26-21, 08:24 PM
#180
It's the little things
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Maintenance ride. Shooting for 80+ a week. Old man ****. Still not sure on components. Have a different saddle tI need to install, and looking for a different front caliper option.
Crusty and quick. Similar to it's owner. Except the quick part 😂🤔
Crusty and quick. Similar to it's owner. Except the quick part 😂🤔
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03-26-21, 09:35 PM
#181
Go Ride!
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Senrab62–gorgeous seat clamp construction—always liked that style. Whats wrong with the caliper? You want to go more upscale or a different set up? ...dual pivot, center pull?
03-28-21, 05:33 PM
#183
It's the little things
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Very short reach calipers are needed. Need something shorter, or need to modify the brake arms (slots) to allow more upward adjustment as it's currently set up. A "drop bolt" has also been suggested to me as a possible solution, but the caliper I am using right now is less than mediocre in my opinion.
Ideally, for performance, a modern dual pivot would be perfect. I am trying to keep the look at least fairly period appropriate, if not mid range quality as long as functional. Also, I know of no short reach, nutted dual pivot calipers that are even available. Still looking for the solution!
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03-28-21, 06:44 PM
#185
Go Ride!
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That "fastback" style stay treatment is a trademark of Ron Boi (the builder) and many others for that matter. I always have appreciated the look.
Very short reach calipers are needed. Need something shorter, or need to modify the brake arms (slots) to allow more upward adjustment as it's currently set up. A "drop bolt" has also been suggested to me as a possible solution, but the caliper I am using right now is less than mediocre in my opinion.
Ideally, for performance, a modern dual pivot would be perfect. I am trying to keep the look at least fairly period appropriate, if not mid range quality as long as functional. Also, I know of no short reach, nutted dual pivot calipers that are even available. Still looking for the solution!
Very short reach calipers are needed. Need something shorter, or need to modify the brake arms (slots) to allow more upward adjustment as it's currently set up. A "drop bolt" has also been suggested to me as a possible solution, but the caliper I am using right now is less than mediocre in my opinion.
Ideally, for performance, a modern dual pivot would be perfect. I am trying to keep the look at least fairly period appropriate, if not mid range quality as long as functional. Also, I know of no short reach, nutted dual pivot calipers that are even available. Still looking for the solution!
03-28-21, 07:39 PM
#186
Old fart
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Very short reach calipers are needed. Need something shorter, or need to modify the brake arms (slots) to allow more upward adjustment as it's currently set up. A "drop bolt" has also been suggested to me as a possible solution, but the caliper I am using right now is less than mediocre in my opinion.
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03-29-21, 07:48 PM
#187
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I've got matching 584x32 tires now 
And while we're on the topic of fastback seatstays
And while we're on the topic of fastback seatstays
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03-29-21, 07:57 PM
#188
Senior Member
Edit: Campagnolo Skeleton
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03-29-21, 10:40 PM
#191
Senior Member
Edit: BTW, I left the headset cups in on purpose. They will come out when I do the final sanding and cleaning of the frame before paint.
Last edited by BoozyMcliverRot; 03-29-21 at 10:43 PM.
04-01-21, 05:57 PM
#192
It's the little things
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Build looks great and good to see it out in the wild!
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04-02-21, 08:12 AM
#193
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Here's a bit of a novel, but hey, you asked
I barely ever rode this with 700c wheels so I don't have too much of a frame of reference regarding how it feels with 650b vs 700c.
With references to my other bikes I do have some context though -
I don't know the exact geometry of this bike, but assuming it's typical track geo with a 74° HTA and a measured fork offset of 20mm, the front end trail with 584x32 tires is the highest out of all my bikes at 73mm.
That high of trail plus the wide supple tires make the front end very stable. The bike is always on rails and it takes a decent amount of effort to turn the bars. Riding no-hands is super easy.
Comparing this to my Trek 710 with 38mm 650b tires, 63mm offset fork and 33mm of trail is like night and day - the Trek has the lightest steering effort of all of my bikes. Riding no-hands takes some concentration but you get used to it
Max tire clearance is limited by the fork at 23mm. A 622x23 tire has a calculated diameter of 668mm and a 584x32 tire has a calculated diameter of 648mm, so the conversion dropped the bottom bracket by 10mm. Really not a huge deal for me since it's already got a high BB and I'm not racing crits on the thing
I haven't checked toe overlap with the 32mm tires but when I had a 40mm actual width tire on the front there was barely a hint of overlap on 170mm cranks and clipless shoes with the cleats pretty far back. So just like the BB dropped 10mm, I gained 10mm of toe clearance as well.Overall no regrets - thankfully nothing I've done is a permanent change so if in the future I want to run 700c I can. I don't really see any reason to, though.
Regarding tires themselves, they are Grand Bois Cypres 650b x 32mm standard casing, mounted on a Velocity Synergy (17mm internal/23mm external) at the rear and a Velocity Atlas (20mm internal/25mm external) at the front. On initial installation they only measured at 28mm but after a few rides the rear is right at 32mm and the front is 33ish. They might grow a little bit but I don't expect a whole lot of that.
Tires in this size aren't exactly the easiest to find, however. You can order them from Grand Bois in Japan but shipping can get pretty expensive - I had been on the hunt for them for a while and just kept searching eBay. I lucked out and found 3 of them new in package. I run brakes on my fixed gears so they should last a while.
Oh and also - I think it's silly to skid on nice tires anyways - but I think you will find that with the contact patch so much larger on 32mm vs 23mm tires there's so much more traction that skidding is just hard in the first place!
04-02-21, 08:37 AM
#194
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In other news + pretty pictures, our local park finally opened for mountain biking so I got to take this out again for the first time since December
04-02-21, 08:45 AM
#195
It's the little things
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Thanks so much!
Here's a bit of a novel, but hey, you asked
I barely ever rode this with 700c wheels so I don't have too much of a frame of reference regarding how it feels with 650b vs 700c.
With references to my other bikes I do have some context though -
I don't know the exact geometry of this bike, but assuming it's typical track geo with a 74° HTA and a measured fork offset of 20mm, the front end trail with 584x32 tires is the highest out of all my bikes at 73mm.
That high of trail plus the wide supple tires make the front end very stable. The bike is always on rails and it takes a decent amount of effort to turn the bars. Riding no-hands is super easy.
Comparing this to my Trek 710 with 38mm 650b tires, 63mm offset fork and 33mm of trail is like night and day - the Trek has the lightest steering effort of all of my bikes. Riding no-hands takes some concentration but you get used to it
Max tire clearance is limited by the fork at 23mm. A 622x23 tire has a calculated diameter of 668mm and a 584x32 tire has a calculated diameter of 648mm, so the conversion dropped the bottom bracket by 10mm. Really not a huge deal for me since it's already got a high BB and I'm not racing crits on the thing I haven't checked toe overlap with the 32mm tires but when I had a 40mm actual width tire on the front there was barely a hint of overlap on 170mm cranks and clipless shoes with the cleats pretty far back. So just like the BB dropped 10mm, I gained 10mm of toe clearance as well.
Overall no regrets - thankfully nothing I've done is a permanent change so if in the future I want to run 700c I can. I don't really see any reason to, though.
Regarding tires themselves, they are Grand Bois Cypres 650b x 32mm standard casing, mounted on a Velocity Synergy (17mm internal/23mm external) at the rear and a Velocity Atlas (20mm internal/25mm external) at the front. On initial installation they only measured at 28mm but after a few rides the rear is right at 32mm and the front is 33ish. They might grow a little bit but I don't expect a whole lot of that.
Tires in this size aren't exactly the easiest to find, however. You can order them from Grand Bois in Japan but shipping can get pretty expensive - I had been on the hunt for them for a while and just kept searching eBay. I lucked out and found 3 of them new in package. I run brakes on my fixed gears so they should last a while.
Oh and also - I think it's silly to skid on nice tires anyways - but I think you will find that with the contact patch so much larger on 32mm vs 23mm tires there's so much more traction that skidding is just hard in the first place!
Here's a bit of a novel, but hey, you asked
I barely ever rode this with 700c wheels so I don't have too much of a frame of reference regarding how it feels with 650b vs 700c.
With references to my other bikes I do have some context though -
I don't know the exact geometry of this bike, but assuming it's typical track geo with a 74° HTA and a measured fork offset of 20mm, the front end trail with 584x32 tires is the highest out of all my bikes at 73mm.
That high of trail plus the wide supple tires make the front end very stable. The bike is always on rails and it takes a decent amount of effort to turn the bars. Riding no-hands is super easy.
Comparing this to my Trek 710 with 38mm 650b tires, 63mm offset fork and 33mm of trail is like night and day - the Trek has the lightest steering effort of all of my bikes. Riding no-hands takes some concentration but you get used to it
Max tire clearance is limited by the fork at 23mm. A 622x23 tire has a calculated diameter of 668mm and a 584x32 tire has a calculated diameter of 648mm, so the conversion dropped the bottom bracket by 10mm. Really not a huge deal for me since it's already got a high BB and I'm not racing crits on the thing
I haven't checked toe overlap with the 32mm tires but when I had a 40mm actual width tire on the front there was barely a hint of overlap on 170mm cranks and clipless shoes with the cleats pretty far back. So just like the BB dropped 10mm, I gained 10mm of toe clearance as well.Overall no regrets - thankfully nothing I've done is a permanent change so if in the future I want to run 700c I can. I don't really see any reason to, though.
Regarding tires themselves, they are Grand Bois Cypres 650b x 32mm standard casing, mounted on a Velocity Synergy (17mm internal/23mm external) at the rear and a Velocity Atlas (20mm internal/25mm external) at the front. On initial installation they only measured at 28mm but after a few rides the rear is right at 32mm and the front is 33ish. They might grow a little bit but I don't expect a whole lot of that.
Tires in this size aren't exactly the easiest to find, however. You can order them from Grand Bois in Japan but shipping can get pretty expensive - I had been on the hunt for them for a while and just kept searching eBay. I lucked out and found 3 of them new in package. I run brakes on my fixed gears so they should last a while.
Oh and also - I think it's silly to skid on nice tires anyways - but I think you will find that with the contact patch so much larger on 32mm vs 23mm tires there's so much more traction that skidding is just hard in the first place!
I don't skid either, and never wanted to. Bikes look cleaner w/o brakes, especially track bikes, but skidding ruins tires and is inefficient as eff. Not worth it in my book and makes my bike less capable. There is no benefit.
I reeeeally want to do the conversion, but will have to wait. Don't mind the overlap as much, but the narrow tires and lack of clearance is a bit unnerving. Too many pots (projects) simmering. Can't justify the expense! First world problems 😂
04-02-21, 09:19 AM
#196
2k miles from the midwest
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Last month I bought several bikes from a former trackie's estate. He had several track bikes that he was still road riding in his 70s, among them this Raleigh. I need to either lace up a set of silver wheels or glue some tubbies to the OG wheels so that I can repurpose these to another of his frames.
1972 Raleigh Professional track
1972 Raleigh Professional track
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04-02-21, 09:26 AM
#197
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Appreciate the thorough explanation.
I don't skid either, and never wanted to. Bikes look cleaner w/o brakes, especially track bikes, but skidding ruins tires and is inefficient as eff. Not worth it in my book and makes my bike less capable. There is no benefit.
I reeeeally want to do the conversion, but will have to wait. Don't mind the overlap as much, but the narrow tires and lack of clearance is a bit unnerving. Too many pots (projects) simmering. Can't justify the expense! First world problems 😂
I don't skid either, and never wanted to. Bikes look cleaner w/o brakes, especially track bikes, but skidding ruins tires and is inefficient as eff. Not worth it in my book and makes my bike less capable. There is no benefit.
I reeeeally want to do the conversion, but will have to wait. Don't mind the overlap as much, but the narrow tires and lack of clearance is a bit unnerving. Too many pots (projects) simmering. Can't justify the expense! First world problems 😂
Agreed regarding brakes. I've gotten a little more comfortable and confident in my ability to ride without needing to use them but it's just not the smartest idea when you could lose all braking ability from a single point of failure. I've got two braking mechanisms on my road bikes (front and rear calipers) and I've got two on this track bike (front brake and backpressure) which is an important risk mitigation, even where I ride out in the sticks!
Plus, the fork was already drilled for one. The rear isn't and I'll probably leave it that way even though I don't particularly like having a brake lever not hooked up to anything. At least it doesn't rattle. An added benefit is having the hoods there for some alternate hand positions
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04-02-21, 09:33 AM
#198
It's the little things
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Last month I bought several bikes from a former trackie's estate. He had several track bikes that he was still road riding in his 70s, among them this Raleigh. I need to either lace up a set of silver wheels or glue some tubbies to the OG wheels so that I can repurpose these to another of his frames.
1972 Raleigh Professional track
1972 Raleigh Professional track
Beautiful! How does it ride. Looks spectacular!
04-02-21, 10:16 AM
#199
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BB and I are getting settled into our new home in Texas. Looks like most of the good riding in my new hood is dirt, so I might throw the risers back on, get some fatter tires, and go full tracklo with it.
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04-02-21, 01:04 PM
#200
Senior Member
How I got it a month ago for $30 of BookFace vs. now
gonna finish the build tonight.
26" ain't dead yet lol.
gonna finish the build tonight.
26" ain't dead yet lol.
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