Changing Out Old Chain. Lube ?
05-13-17, 05:54 PM
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Changing Out Old Chain. Lube ?
2016 Fuji Crosstown 1.1, as of today 6507 miles.
Had a slow leak on a 60 mile ride today, second flat on the same Marathon Plus tire (another story), decided to just tear the bike down for the summer, since I needed to change the tube, and tune/clean it. Since I cleaned the cassette and pulled the triple chank gear side and cleaned it as well, figured since I have a new chain I might as well replace it.
I've heard to not to lube a new Shimano chain until it needs it, but should I put a light smear of lube on the cassette and crank, or just let the new chain transfer the lube ?
Had a slow leak on a 60 mile ride today, second flat on the same Marathon Plus tire (another story), decided to just tear the bike down for the summer, since I needed to change the tube, and tune/clean it. Since I cleaned the cassette and pulled the triple chank gear side and cleaned it as well, figured since I have a new chain I might as well replace it.
I've heard to not to lube a new Shimano chain until it needs it, but should I put a light smear of lube on the cassette and crank, or just let the new chain transfer the lube ?
05-13-17, 06:13 PM
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Put it on and ride. No need to do anything else. The factory lube is very good and will last a long time. The only problem some people have with the factory lube is it tends to attract dirt more than some other lubes.
05-13-17, 06:42 PM
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That's what I was thinking, thanks. I use the "wet" lube anyways, gets very rainy here during the summer, so I always wipe the chain down after (most) every ride.
05-13-17, 07:16 PM
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I'd always lube a new chain.
There are essentially two kinds of lubes:
Dry lube which is usually wax based and wet lube which is oil based. Factory lube can be adequate but what lube you should be using is a function of the conditions you ride in. In Colorado or Utah which is dry and dusty an oil based lube (like your factory lube) will just attract dirt and grime which will wear your cogs, chain and rings out quickly.
There is nothing magical about factory lube. If you want an oil based lube there are good ones that protect chains and components in wet environments. Generally the thicker the viscocity of the lube the more it acts as an attractant to dirt, dust grime but it also holds up better in rain and wet conditions.
You should never use a wax or Dry lube in wet and rainy conditions, instead use a wet or oil lube. You should never use a wet or oil lube in Fruita or Moab or even most of the Front Range of Colorado and the SW US. There just isn't enough moisture to warrant turning the drivetrain into a magnet for grime, grit and dirt.
In between a dry or clean wax lube and a heavy viscosity wet oil lube that rain won't wash off a chain is a thousand variances. Essentially everything in between is a compromise of sorts. Just as it's true that there is no single heat rangecspark plug for a two stroke engine that is "best" for all climates hot or cold, it is also true that there is no "best" lube for all conditions. Oil based for wet, but brings increased wear due to attracting grime and grit or wax based for dry, which doesn't quite lubricate the chain as well, initially but certainly much better than what a single ride can do to a new oiled chain in dusty, dirty and dry conditions.
I like White Lightning where I can't get Pedro's lubes.
Most cyclists don't but when running a dry lube on a road bike it's a good idea to carry a wet lube if you get caught in the rain. However, you want to clean the chain of the dirt magnet lube before the next ride.
An unlubricated chain is incredibly efficient. Chain drive is the most efficient manner of energy transference. Any friends you ride with that use belt drive are working harder to go slower in comparison. The lubrication is essentially a means to avoid wearing out cogs and rings prematurely or stretching chains unnecessarily,
If you live in a dusty, dirty and dry environment get that factory lube off and get a good amount of dry wax lube like White Lightning Clean Ride or Pedro's Slick Wax.
Remember the right chain cleaning and lubrication regimen in dry, dusty and dirty conditions is cleaning and living the chain THREE TIMES more often than you would in wet conditions. The reason isn't that the chain stays cleaner, as the cleaner chain would require less frequent cleanings not more frequent. The reason is that Wax lubes for dry and dirty conditions don't lady as long as heavy viscocity wet lubes. A wet lube is still adequately lubricating a dirty chain when you clean it and reapply, it doesn't break down or wash away, the problem is the maintenance interval is defined by the dirt, grime and grit that have been attracted to the oil.
Wax lubes wear out quickly but leave a clean chain, they need to be reapplied almost every ride or every 50 miles. Wet oil lubes last seemingly forever but will attract so much grit & grime that the drivetrain needs cleaned every 150 miles.
Anyone serious about Randonneuring explores lube drip systems that reapply lubrication to the chain constantly for those legendary 600k brevets. Like Pedro's Enduro wet lube or White Lightening Wet Ride.
Any other hybrid lube other than a dry wax lube or a wet oil lube is a compromise and do nothing well and really never be ideal for most conditions. Other than in a velodrome there is ALWAYS grit, grime and dust and dirt on every road ride and especially mountain rides. Usually the determining factor is whether it is wet or not. I avoid hybrid lubes they are almost always wrong for the application and cleaning/lubing intervals.
There are essentially two kinds of lubes:
Dry lube which is usually wax based and wet lube which is oil based. Factory lube can be adequate but what lube you should be using is a function of the conditions you ride in. In Colorado or Utah which is dry and dusty an oil based lube (like your factory lube) will just attract dirt and grime which will wear your cogs, chain and rings out quickly.
There is nothing magical about factory lube. If you want an oil based lube there are good ones that protect chains and components in wet environments. Generally the thicker the viscocity of the lube the more it acts as an attractant to dirt, dust grime but it also holds up better in rain and wet conditions.
You should never use a wax or Dry lube in wet and rainy conditions, instead use a wet or oil lube. You should never use a wet or oil lube in Fruita or Moab or even most of the Front Range of Colorado and the SW US. There just isn't enough moisture to warrant turning the drivetrain into a magnet for grime, grit and dirt.
In between a dry or clean wax lube and a heavy viscosity wet oil lube that rain won't wash off a chain is a thousand variances. Essentially everything in between is a compromise of sorts. Just as it's true that there is no single heat rangecspark plug for a two stroke engine that is "best" for all climates hot or cold, it is also true that there is no "best" lube for all conditions. Oil based for wet, but brings increased wear due to attracting grime and grit or wax based for dry, which doesn't quite lubricate the chain as well, initially but certainly much better than what a single ride can do to a new oiled chain in dusty, dirty and dry conditions.
I like White Lightning where I can't get Pedro's lubes.
Most cyclists don't but when running a dry lube on a road bike it's a good idea to carry a wet lube if you get caught in the rain. However, you want to clean the chain of the dirt magnet lube before the next ride.
An unlubricated chain is incredibly efficient. Chain drive is the most efficient manner of energy transference. Any friends you ride with that use belt drive are working harder to go slower in comparison. The lubrication is essentially a means to avoid wearing out cogs and rings prematurely or stretching chains unnecessarily,
If you live in a dusty, dirty and dry environment get that factory lube off and get a good amount of dry wax lube like White Lightning Clean Ride or Pedro's Slick Wax.
Remember the right chain cleaning and lubrication regimen in dry, dusty and dirty conditions is cleaning and living the chain THREE TIMES more often than you would in wet conditions. The reason isn't that the chain stays cleaner, as the cleaner chain would require less frequent cleanings not more frequent. The reason is that Wax lubes for dry and dirty conditions don't lady as long as heavy viscocity wet lubes. A wet lube is still adequately lubricating a dirty chain when you clean it and reapply, it doesn't break down or wash away, the problem is the maintenance interval is defined by the dirt, grime and grit that have been attracted to the oil.
Wax lubes wear out quickly but leave a clean chain, they need to be reapplied almost every ride or every 50 miles. Wet oil lubes last seemingly forever but will attract so much grit & grime that the drivetrain needs cleaned every 150 miles.
Anyone serious about Randonneuring explores lube drip systems that reapply lubrication to the chain constantly for those legendary 600k brevets. Like Pedro's Enduro wet lube or White Lightening Wet Ride.
Any other hybrid lube other than a dry wax lube or a wet oil lube is a compromise and do nothing well and really never be ideal for most conditions. Other than in a velodrome there is ALWAYS grit, grime and dust and dirt on every road ride and especially mountain rides. Usually the determining factor is whether it is wet or not. I avoid hybrid lubes they are almost always wrong for the application and cleaning/lubing intervals.
05-13-17, 08:25 PM
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Damn, I forgot how well the Alivio shifted, replaced it with the HG93 chain, makes a entry level groupset feel a little better.
05-13-17, 09:56 PM
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Ha ! What was I thinking ? New chain shifted great on the stand, but not so well on the test ride around the block. Just ordered a new cassette, new chain and old cassette just don't get along. This is what happens when beer and bike maintenance cross paths.
05-13-17, 10:53 PM
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I'd always lube a new chain.
There are essentially two kinds of lubes:
Dry lube which is usually wax based and wet lube which is oil based. Factory lube can be adequate but what lube you should be using is a function of the conditions you ride in. In Colorado or Utah which is dry and dusty an oil based lube (like your factory lube) will just attract dirt and grime which will wear your cogs, chain and rings out quickly.
There is nothing magical about factory lube. If you want an oil based lube there are good ones that protect chains and components in wet environments. Generally the thicker the viscocity of the lube the more it acts as an attractant to dirt, dust grime but it also holds up better in rain and wet conditions.
You should never use a wax or Dry lube in wet and rainy conditions, instead use a wet or oil lube. You should never use a wet or oil lube in Fruita or Moab or even most of the Front Range of Colorado and the SW US. There just isn't enough moisture to warrant turning the drivetrain into a magnet for grime, grit and dirt.
In between a dry or clean wax lube and a heavy viscosity wet oil lube that rain won't wash off a chain is a thousand variances. Essentially everything in between is a compromise of sorts. Just as it's true that there is no single heat rangecspark plug for a two stroke engine that is "best" for all climates hot or cold, it is also true that there is no "best" lube for all conditions. Oil based for wet, but brings increased wear due to attracting grime and grit or wax based for dry, which doesn't quite lubricate the chain as well, initially but certainly much better than what a single ride can do to a new oiled chain in dusty, dirty and dry conditions.
I like White Lightning where I can't get Pedro's lubes.
Most cyclists don't but when running a dry lube on a road bike it's a good idea to carry a wet lube if you get caught in the rain. However, you want to clean the chain of the dirt magnet lube before the next ride.
An unlubricated chain is incredibly efficient. Chain drive is the most efficient manner of energy transference. Any friends you ride with that use belt drive are working harder to go slower in comparison. The lubrication is essentially a means to avoid wearing out cogs and rings prematurely or stretching chains unnecessarily,
If you live in a dusty, dirty and dry environment get that factory lube off and get a good amount of dry wax lube like White Lightning Clean Ride or Pedro's Slick Wax.
Remember the right chain cleaning and lubrication regimen in dry, dusty and dirty conditions is cleaning and living the chain THREE TIMES more often than you would in wet conditions. The reason isn't that the chain stays cleaner, as the cleaner chain would require less frequent cleanings not more frequent. The reason is that Wax lubes for dry and dirty conditions don't lady as long as heavy viscocity wet lubes. A wet lube is still adequately lubricating a dirty chain when you clean it and reapply, it doesn't break down or wash away, the problem is the maintenance interval is defined by the dirt, grime and grit that have been attracted to the oil.
Wax lubes wear out quickly but leave a clean chain, they need to be reapplied almost every ride or every 50 miles. Wet oil lubes last seemingly forever but will attract so much grit & grime that the drivetrain needs cleaned every 150 miles.
Anyone serious about Randonneuring explores lube drip systems that reapply lubrication to the chain constantly for those legendary 600k brevets. Like Pedro's Enduro wet lube or White Lightening Wet Ride.
Any other hybrid lube other than a dry wax lube or a wet oil lube is a compromise and do nothing well and really never be ideal for most conditions. Other than in a velodrome there is ALWAYS grit, grime and dust and dirt on every road ride and especially mountain rides. Usually the determining factor is whether it is wet or not. I avoid hybrid lubes they are almost always wrong for the application and cleaning/lubing intervals.
There are essentially two kinds of lubes:
Dry lube which is usually wax based and wet lube which is oil based. Factory lube can be adequate but what lube you should be using is a function of the conditions you ride in. In Colorado or Utah which is dry and dusty an oil based lube (like your factory lube) will just attract dirt and grime which will wear your cogs, chain and rings out quickly.
There is nothing magical about factory lube. If you want an oil based lube there are good ones that protect chains and components in wet environments. Generally the thicker the viscocity of the lube the more it acts as an attractant to dirt, dust grime but it also holds up better in rain and wet conditions.
You should never use a wax or Dry lube in wet and rainy conditions, instead use a wet or oil lube. You should never use a wet or oil lube in Fruita or Moab or even most of the Front Range of Colorado and the SW US. There just isn't enough moisture to warrant turning the drivetrain into a magnet for grime, grit and dirt.
In between a dry or clean wax lube and a heavy viscosity wet oil lube that rain won't wash off a chain is a thousand variances. Essentially everything in between is a compromise of sorts. Just as it's true that there is no single heat rangecspark plug for a two stroke engine that is "best" for all climates hot or cold, it is also true that there is no "best" lube for all conditions. Oil based for wet, but brings increased wear due to attracting grime and grit or wax based for dry, which doesn't quite lubricate the chain as well, initially but certainly much better than what a single ride can do to a new oiled chain in dusty, dirty and dry conditions.
I like White Lightning where I can't get Pedro's lubes.
Most cyclists don't but when running a dry lube on a road bike it's a good idea to carry a wet lube if you get caught in the rain. However, you want to clean the chain of the dirt magnet lube before the next ride.
An unlubricated chain is incredibly efficient. Chain drive is the most efficient manner of energy transference. Any friends you ride with that use belt drive are working harder to go slower in comparison. The lubrication is essentially a means to avoid wearing out cogs and rings prematurely or stretching chains unnecessarily,
If you live in a dusty, dirty and dry environment get that factory lube off and get a good amount of dry wax lube like White Lightning Clean Ride or Pedro's Slick Wax.
Remember the right chain cleaning and lubrication regimen in dry, dusty and dirty conditions is cleaning and living the chain THREE TIMES more often than you would in wet conditions. The reason isn't that the chain stays cleaner, as the cleaner chain would require less frequent cleanings not more frequent. The reason is that Wax lubes for dry and dirty conditions don't lady as long as heavy viscocity wet lubes. A wet lube is still adequately lubricating a dirty chain when you clean it and reapply, it doesn't break down or wash away, the problem is the maintenance interval is defined by the dirt, grime and grit that have been attracted to the oil.
Wax lubes wear out quickly but leave a clean chain, they need to be reapplied almost every ride or every 50 miles. Wet oil lubes last seemingly forever but will attract so much grit & grime that the drivetrain needs cleaned every 150 miles.
Anyone serious about Randonneuring explores lube drip systems that reapply lubrication to the chain constantly for those legendary 600k brevets. Like Pedro's Enduro wet lube or White Lightening Wet Ride.
Any other hybrid lube other than a dry wax lube or a wet oil lube is a compromise and do nothing well and really never be ideal for most conditions. Other than in a velodrome there is ALWAYS grit, grime and dust and dirt on every road ride and especially mountain rides. Usually the determining factor is whether it is wet or not. I avoid hybrid lubes they are almost always wrong for the application and cleaning/lubing intervals.
Put chain on and ride bike.
05-14-17, 07:21 AM
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Just to be clear: oil and grease do not attract dirt; they collect dirt. If you ride in dirty conditions, an oily or greasy chain will get dirty more quickly than if you used a dry lube. If you ride in clean conditions, even an oily or greasy chain will stay clean. Take your riding conditions into consideration when choosing a chain lube.
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 05-14-17 at 07:25 AM.
05-14-17, 09:26 AM
#10
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the surfaces that need the lubrication , are inside the chain,
Inside the rollers , and around the pins..
so wipe off the excess.. from the outside..
Inside the rollers , and around the pins..
so wipe off the excess.. from the outside..
05-14-17, 09:27 AM
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Anyone who wants to maximize the life of their drivetrain, an old cool guy trick is to buy four chains when the drivetrain is new. You rotate the chains about every 500 miles. It's important to label the chains off the bike to keep them straight.
Aside from dirt and grit/grime what destroys a drivetrain is a stretched chain wearing cogs/rings.
It's why you can't let a chain stretch and then just put on a new chain and ride without everything shifting all crappy. The stretched chain wears the cogs and rings to match. Chains (even Campy) are cheap compared to new rings and cassettes. You'll get x4 more life out of your drivetrain by rotating four chains.
Ride 500 miles on A chain switch to chain B
Ride 500 miles on B chain switch to chain C
Ride 500 miles on C chain switch to chain D
Ride 500 miles on D chain
Then start over.
With 10 speed it's better to use 300 mile intervals
11 speed use 200 mile intervals
Aside from dirt and grit/grime what destroys a drivetrain is a stretched chain wearing cogs/rings.
It's why you can't let a chain stretch and then just put on a new chain and ride without everything shifting all crappy. The stretched chain wears the cogs and rings to match. Chains (even Campy) are cheap compared to new rings and cassettes. You'll get x4 more life out of your drivetrain by rotating four chains.
Ride 500 miles on A chain switch to chain B
Ride 500 miles on B chain switch to chain C
Ride 500 miles on C chain switch to chain D
Ride 500 miles on D chain
Then start over.
With 10 speed it's better to use 300 mile intervals
11 speed use 200 mile intervals
