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Very difficult to get into Speedplay pedals...

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Very difficult to get into Speedplay pedals...

Old 12-27-19, 04:41 PM
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Caliper
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Very difficult to get into Speedplay pedals...

After admiring their sleek and minimal design for years, I finally decided to try Speedplay pedals out. Like many of my pedals, I snagged a used set off eBay and paired them with new cleats. My trouble is that these are the most difficult pedals to clip into! They are currently on my trainer and I can typically stand on the pedal and get into the saddle without the cleat engaging (at 170#, I'm no lightweight either). I have to actually pedal and put some effort into the pedal before they will reliably clip in. I hear one of the biggest faults is overtightening these, but I've had them down to fingertight where I could actually slide the cleat about on the shoe with no help. Last night I put a proper torque wrench on them, gave the cleat screws 2.5 Nm but that didn't change a thing. I can move around the c-clip on the cleat easily with a fingernail but the thing just won't always clip onto the pedal until I push on it. I want to like these, but is this typical and how to fix it?
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Old 12-27-19, 04:51 PM
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They should be pretty easy to clip in to. You're right that over-tightening is the most common problem. Second most common is probably not using the proper shims so that the cleats will sit flat.

Edited to add: it's also worth noting that they can be a little stiff when new but will loosen with time.

Last edited by WhyFi; 12-27-19 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 12-27-19, 06:57 PM
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They need to break in. A little triflow or chain wax helps. I'm clipped in before TDC.
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Old 12-27-19, 07:02 PM
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My shop insists on torque specs for the Speedplays. I usually do it myself and I know you can over tighten them.
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Old 12-27-19, 07:35 PM
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I just switched to Speedplays too. I agree, they are somewhat difficult to get into when, especially when I’m not perfectly lined up. I have walkable cleats, which sort of makes a target for the pedal, but also sort of makes it easy to be a little off.

Just to confirm: You have the correct cleats for your pedal, right? Not all of their models are compatible.
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Old 12-27-19, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 72andsunny
I just switched to Speedplays too. I agree, they are somewhat difficult to get into....

Just to confirm: You have the correct cleats for your pedal, right? Not all of their models are compatible.

OP - 72andsunny may have identified the issue for you.
>>>Some pedals by SP require their matching cleats.<<<


I've ridden Speedplays for over 5 years now , recently bought a used set (which I use with same shoes and original cleat set), and clipping in is reliable and requires only a light push as the crank arm moves down.
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Old 12-28-19, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 72andsunny
I just switched to Speedplays too. I agree, they are somewhat difficult to get into when, especially when I’m not perfectly lined up. I have walkable cleats, which sort of makes a target for the pedal, but also sort of makes it easy to be a little off.

Just to confirm: You have the correct cleats for your pedal, right? Not all of their models are compatible.
My Speedplay Zeros are the easiest and best pedals I've used since clipless came out. I've been using them for about 20 yrs. I also have a pair with the walkable cleats and I think they are useless. I've removed the yellow plastic platform.
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Old 12-28-19, 08:29 AM
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I've been riding Speedplays for 10 years. I find if you rotate your foot a bit as you clip in they are very easy to engage.
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Old 12-28-19, 09:46 AM
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I've used the speedplay x-type pedals since they were first introduced many years ago and never had a problem with them. I tried the zero pedals a couple of years ago and couldn't get them to work with my custom made shoes, that work fine with the x-type. I never rode with the zeros because I couldn't get clipped in. I tried loosening the screws and still couldn't get them to work. I sold them on e-bay and went back to my x-type. If the zero cleats are that sensitive to screw tightness, I don't want them.

FWIW, my custom shoes have a flat surface and 4 hole pattern, just for speedplay pedals. No adapter plate needed.

Last edited by DaveSSS; 12-28-19 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 12-28-19, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Caliper
After admiring their sleek and minimal design for years, I finally decided to try Speedplay pedals out. Like many of my pedals, I snagged a used set off eBay and paired them with new cleats. My trouble is that these are the most difficult pedals to clip into! They are currently on my trainer and I can typically stand on the pedal and get into the saddle without the cleat engaging (at 170#, I'm no lightweight either). I have to actually pedal and put some effort into the pedal before they will reliably clip in. I hear one of the biggest faults is overtightening these, but I've had them down to fingertight where I could actually slide the cleat about on the shoe with no help. Last night I put a proper torque wrench on them, gave the cleat screws 2.5 Nm but that didn't change a thing. I can move around the c-clip on the cleat easily with a fingernail but the thing just won't always clip onto the pedal until I push on it. I want to like these, but is this typical and how to fix it?
What model of SP did you get? Since you bought used, did you get the correct snap shim to match to your shoe's sole curvature, and/or is your shoe compatible with SP pedals? The linked is a sample guide for the Zeros: Speedplay Shoe Compatiblity

I'm guessing you more likely have a 3-hole shoe and not SP dedicated shoes? FWIW, I think it's the base plate mounting that's more sensitive to overtightening (4nM) or undertightening as relates to curvature of the pedal and problems clipping in.

If you haven't already, lube the cleat with some spray teflon, eg.

Last edited by Sy Reene; 12-28-19 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 12-28-19, 10:04 AM
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I think IMO they may have a quality consistency problem with the shape or strength of the c shaped spring clips.

I own a pair for time trial only and they’re a nightmare. No pedal system should require fiddling amd “break in “ to work.

I am down to heating the c clip with a torch and opening them a hair with pliers. I saw that suggested on another forum.

I almost found a chinese fastener and tools site that had the clips in lighter steel. But no “spur” sticking out on the side of the c shape. So no go there.

Since it’s staying clipped in for time trial nonstop it isn’t a huge deal but it’s annoying AF to buy something that price so darn persnickety.
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Old 12-28-19, 11:25 AM
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Been on Zero's for 6 years. 165 lbs & have zero issues. I would agree with the above regarding shims. Check the flatness of your adapter plate prior to installing the cleat with a ruler or straight edge. If the plate isn't flat you may have issues with engagement when you install the cleat. Would also add that clipping in is a bit different than a shimano pedal, more of a straight push than heel down. I tend to just stand on the pedal at BDC and pop right in.

If you stick with them the torque driver for installation is a good purchase.
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Old 12-28-19, 11:34 AM
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Followup:

for mine I just inspected them and have not bent the c clip yet. The c clip was in such shape from original it was digging into the yellow guide on the inside.

I just now bent the clips until they rotated freely in the yellow guide without such rubbing. Hard to describe how much to bend them out, but they shouldn’t “dig” or rub hard on the inside of the yellow piece.

Now, after bending the c clip, I could engage them using my hands. But still plenty of shape that it fully rests inside the cutout of the pedals.

So, worth a shot.

When I say my c clip was digging into the yellow, with the cleats off the shoes and in hand disassembled they were hard to spin in the yellow track. Now they spin free.

I think people sometimes misdiagnose this as user install error when it’s the c clip.

I used the exact shim per Speedplay’s chart for my exact shoe and had the exact torque and lube setup. What clued me in on that stupid clip was how it wouldn’t rotate well even when uninstalled off the shoe.
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Old 12-29-19, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 72andsunny
I just switched to Speedplays too. I agree, they are somewhat difficult to get into when, especially when I’m not perfectly lined up. I have walkable cleats, which sort of makes a target for the pedal, but also sort of makes it easy to be a little off.

Just to confirm: You have the correct cleats for your pedal, right? Not all of their models are compatible.
Originally Posted by chainwhip
OP - 72andsunny may have identified the issue for you.
>>>Some pedals by SP require their matching cleats.<<<


I've ridden Speedplays for over 5 years now , recently bought a used set (which I use with same shoes and original cleat set), and clipping in is reliable and requires only a light push as the crank arm moves down.
Have Zero pedals with Zero v2 cleats, the cleats came sealed in their plastic bag.


Originally Posted by Sy Reene
What model of SP did you get? Since you bought used, did you get the correct snap shim to match to your shoe's sole curvature, and/or is your shoe compatible with SP pedals? The linked is a sample guide for the Zeros: Speedplay Shoe Compatiblity

I'm guessing you more likely have a 3-hole shoe and not SP dedicated shoes? FWIW, I think it's the base plate mounting that's more sensitive to overtightening (4nM) or undertightening as relates to curvature of the pedal and problems clipping in.

If you haven't already, lube the cleat with some spray teflon, eg.
I have been using them on my spare shoes, which are old Performance house brand shoes and not listed. I had tried out the various shims to get a combo that appeared to sit flat. I just switched the cleats over to my LG shoes now which are listed and that has made a big difference. I'll have to do some more riding but it feels like I can now properly evaluate these pedals.

If so many issues are related to the bolt adapter warping, why doesn't Speedplay make a metal version of the adapter that would give a secure platform for their 4 hole cleat?
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Old 12-29-19, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep
I think IMO they may have a quality consistency problem with the shape or strength of the c shaped spring clips.

I own a pair for time trial only and they’re a nightmare. No pedal system should require fiddling amd “break in “ to work.

I am down to heating the c clip with a torch and opening them a hair with pliers. I saw that suggested on another forum.

I almost found a chinese fastener and tools site that had the clips in lighter steel. But no “spur” sticking out on the side of the c shape. So no go there.

Since it’s staying clipped in for time trial nonstop it isn’t a huge deal but it’s annoying AF to buy something that price so darn persnickety.
I find this strange. I've been riding Speedplay for about 15 years and have never encountered anything like this.
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Old 12-29-19, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Caliper
If so many issues are related to the bolt adapter warping, why doesn't Speedplay make a metal version of the adapter that would give a secure platform for their 4 hole cleat?
You think that they should machine shims out of metal to address a newbie/user error issue? This is one of those things where you figure it out and it's not a problem again.
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Old 12-29-19, 02:19 PM
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I really don’t think that many people are that ham fisted.

Some, yes. But I could positively ID that the clip wasn’t right. It’s also a known fix over on Weightweenies.
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Old 12-29-19, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
You think that they should machine shims out of metal to address a newbie/user error issue? This is one of those things where you figure it out and it's not a problem again.
Not the shims, the adaptor plate. The adapters appeared flat when I sighted across them yet they didn't work. With the LG shoes, I can see a slight twist to the adapter but they work. Seems like a weak spot to me.
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Old 12-29-19, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Caliper
Not the shims, the adaptor plate. The adapters appeared flat when I sighted across them yet they didn't work. With the LG shoes, I can see a slight twist to the adapter but they work. Seems like a weak spot to me.
Okay, but if the underlying issue is a lack of support, I don't see how a rigid plate is help when being mounted to a rigid curved sole. You're going to have a higher stress point where those surfaces mate and you're not likely to alleviate the problem of people torquing the screws too much - you'd probably have more instances of pulling bosses out of the soles, etc.
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Old 04-03-21, 05:26 PM
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I got the new zero's from Wahoo. Rode X series for many years and had riddent the old zero's too so I figured I knew what I was doing. I installed the cleats correctly with the correct shims. I then spent a couple hours trying to find out why I couldn't clip in no matter how hard I tried, removing and reinstalling the cleats, lubing, trying to figure out why the C-clip/spring thingy wouldn't rotate unless I levered it with a flathead screwdriver. I was pretty pissed about missing my ride and sent a strongly worded email to customer support. Finally figured out I had to take a spreader to the C-clip/spring in order to loosen it. Once I spread it, it rotated freely and I could clip in and out. It's still pretty tight but now quite doable to get in and out. That said, my beautiful Saturday morning is gone. Now the wind has come up, the clouds have rolled in and it's damn cold, also not enough daylight left for a decent ride. I'm heading to my trainer to work off some of my anger. They really should not be sending out cleats this tight. Even someone significantly over 200lbs would have a hard time getting into these as delivered, and I have no idea how they'd ever get out.
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Old 04-06-21, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by LauraS
I got the new zero's from Wahoo. Rode X series for many years and had riddent the old zero's too so I figured I knew what I was doing. I installed the cleats correctly with the correct shims. I then spent a couple hours trying to find out why I couldn't clip in no matter how hard I tried, removing and reinstalling the cleats, lubing, trying to figure out why the C-clip/spring thingy wouldn't rotate unless I levered it with a flathead screwdriver. I was pretty pissed about missing my ride and sent a strongly worded email to customer support. Finally figured out I had to take a spreader to the C-clip/spring in order to loosen it. Once I spread it, it rotated freely and I could clip in and out. It's still pretty tight but now quite doable to get in and out. That said, my beautiful Saturday morning is gone. Now the wind has come up, the clouds have rolled in and it's damn cold, also not enough daylight left for a decent ride. I'm heading to my trainer to work off some of my anger. They really should not be sending out cleats this tight. Even someone significantly over 200lbs would have a hard time getting into these as delivered, and I have no idea how they'd ever get out.
I run them on my TT bike for reduced stack height. The QC on the spring clips has been total rubbish. They are way way way too narrow of a C shape often out of the box often times. Every set of the cleats I've had I've had to spread the C-clip as you did.

I had hoped Wahoo would have fixed that with the revision. Guess not. A garbage thing to deal with "out of the box".

I say QC issue as there's also folks who have no issues out of the box. But for me, same thing.......proper shim, torqued proper, etc......now I don't even bother.
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