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Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like : "Unbound Gravel". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Poseidon X Gravel Bike

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Old 02-24-22, 03:49 PM
  #101  
trimaniac
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Originally Posted by jonathanf2
I just wanted to revive this thread. Last week Poseidon finally had X frames in stock after being sold out for almost a year (now sold out again). I bought a frame and it shipped within two days. I've been eyeballing this for awhile mainly for the price ($299 w/carbon fork) and upgradeable potential (comes in QR, but can swap the hangars for thru-axle). I decided to keep it QR since my back-up wheelset is QR, but my other wheelset comes with both TA and QR hub adapters. Overall the frame was easy to work with and there were no issues swapping over my Shimano GRX 400 groupset (from another frame) over to this new bike. I had a Fyxation carbon fork (with alloy steerer) laying around so I decided to use that instead of the full carbon fork provided. Due to limited time, I've decided to keep the hydraulic brake lines external for now using 3M stick-on cable guides, just until I can do a proper internal cable routing.

I've took the bike out on spin, and actually rides nicely absorbing bumps and dampening road vibration. The tapered head tube feels stout and overall fit is good with no discomfort. Check it out!


Hey Jonathan. Your bike looks terrific! I also just bought the frame and while this is the first gravel bike that I owned, I love it. I like the versatility of being able to ride on the road and dirt/gravel, etc. The bike itself, is great for the cost. I have no issues except for chain line but that's probably because I put a mtb crank on it rather than a road or endurance crank (ie: Sram Xplor). I've got roughly 3000 or so miles on it up to date and so far so good.
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Old 02-24-22, 03:53 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by cyclezen
so, I ordered my X on Friday morning, size Lg in Forest Green. Bike was delivered yesterday (tuesday 22nd) late in afternoon...
I put it together this morning and took a short maiden ride of about 3 mi. in our large open space across the street....
AWESOME !!! I am OVER The MOON on this bike! Best bike purchase I've made since getting my Tarmacs ! And I've bought a bunch of bikes since then...
1st ride - great riding bike, feels 'roadie' but a more casual position compared to race bike. Rides great over loose gravel of chunky size,35mm Kenda Small Blocks are great tires!. Quiet on the road, and while they are not GP 4Ks, they get along pretty fine for casual road riding (short section on street going to open space...)

2022 Poseidon X (Lg - 56 cm) stock, except for Spec CF post and Phenom saddle

Quick review of how it came, general condition and some comments on bike/components/assembly.
Cmae out of box well protected with foam tubes and all in a firm package. No damage other than light hazing where bars had shifted to frame... not very visible unless you look real, real close.
Frame paint job is extraordinary, especially considering price. I check frame alignment before assembly and everything right on.
Front wheel bearing v-slight tight (I'm picky...) so I did a quick adjustment and set just right. Rear wheel has very, very slight side-side wobble. I will ride as is for about 50 mi. and then true the wheel (I'm picky...)
Only 'Fail' - for me - the saddle seems like a nice knockoff of the Arione, and is 130 width... Can't ride 130, put on one of my current Favs - Spec Phenom with a Spec CF seatpost.
with the CF post and saddle the 'ride' is quite comfy, not harsh at all.
Brake pads need bedding in, then I'll decide if I need better pads, otherwise decent progression and stopping power will improve as pads bed in.
I'm not a fan of wide bars, so I was planning to switch the stock 46 kinda 'trek' bars for something more my liking - BUT !!! 1st ride, they're not bad... gonna ride them for a few months and see if they grow on me.
Wheels do look sturdy, and ride well, given this is all 'recreation' not race - they'll do fine.
Microshift drivetrain is great ! as expected...35mm Kenda Small Blocks aired to 38 & 40 psi ride and handle great on loose gravel, dusty hardpack and tarmac (i'm 150 lbs) - we'll see how they do in the sand pits and rock gardens. Cranks are nice, basic, but following the best designs for 1x drivetrains. I expect the cranks will do fine. I'm very ok with the old school sq taper BB.
Cassette- whats to say? looks fine, shifts nice, even under load.
Overall, I think this is one of the best value bikes I'm aware of. I would recommend to anyone who wants a gravel bike with roadie ability. Can't say how it will hold up, it's new.
Overall frame dims in Lg work fine for me, short torso, long legs/arms/feet and accustomed to a laid out position. This is more upright, but not 'Opa Fiets' upright like a lot of endurance frames.
'Finish' Quality is as good as any I've seen, not seeing any corners cut on overall quality.
I can't believe the current price, considering the level of the bike/frame/components.
super satisfied with this bike, excited to get out later for a 25 - 30 miler on some dirty tracks...
Ride On
Yuri

Yuri,

Again... I am soooo sorry for replying late to your request for help with the bike size. I am glad you made the decision to buy the bike. I have always liked that color that you bought. I wanted to make a comment about gearing. I can't explain why but I love 1x's. This is my first 1x bike but I made sure that the hardtail mtb I built last year was also a 1x. Anyway, the one thing with the gearing that I didn't like was that, in the middle gears, I was always searching for an appropriate gear but had to settle for either 1 tooth lower or 1 tooth higher than I needed and that was with an 11 speed drivetrain. I mention this because I finally moved to a 12 speed drivetrain and the extra cog on the cassette has filled that need. The gearing on my new cassette doesn't leave me searching for a gear any longer. I hope you know what I mean and I don't look like I am a rambling fool.
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Old 02-24-22, 06:43 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by trimaniac
Hey Jonathan. Your bike looks terrific! I also just bought the frame and while this is the first gravel bike that I owned, I love it. I like the versatility of being able to ride on the road and dirt/gravel, etc. The bike itself, is great for the cost. I have no issues except for chain line but that's probably because I put a mtb crank on it rather than a road or endurance crank (ie: Sram Xplor). I've got roughly 3000 or so miles on it up to date and so far so good.
Thanks! I've since ironed out the kinks from my X build and had everything internally routed! I've already taken the bike on rough dirt fire roads and single track. Everything runs great!

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Old 02-24-22, 10:01 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by jonathanf2
Thanks! I've since ironed out the kinks from my X build and had everything internally routed! I've already taken the bike on rough dirt fire roads and single track. Everything runs great!

Very cool view. Looks like a heck of a ride! Which tires are you liking, the WTB's or the gravelkings you had on previously? Also, do you mind if I ask what you have installed on your top tube? I saw the mount for it on your previous picture and on this one, it is there but I am not sure what it is.
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Old 02-24-22, 11:05 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by trimaniac
Very cool view. Looks like a heck of a ride! Which tires are you liking, the WTB's or the gravelkings you had on previously? Also, do you mind if I ask what you have installed on your top tube? I saw the mount for it on your previous picture and on this one, it is there but I am not sure what it is.
I actually prefer the WTB Nano tires. They roll faster on pavement, have more cushion and bite better on hard pack dirt fire roads, despite being a bit heavier. The GravelKing SKs, feel like they roll slower and don't have as good of traction on hard pack dirt. I much prefer the GK SS tires if I had to pick.

On my top tube is a universal Garmin mount and I have a BT speaker attached so it stays in place even on bumpy roads!

Last edited by jonathanf2; 02-25-22 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 02-26-22, 10:03 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by jonathanf2
Thanks! I've since ironed out the kinks from my X build and had everything internally routed! I've already taken the bike on rough dirt fire roads and single track. Everything runs great!

Sweet ! Looks great !
Have a few rides now on mine, and very enjoyable. I do need to mitgate the some jarring from the front... A lot of what we can ride offroad, in our SB Valley are also used by the nurmerous 'horse' riders. Horses make deep holes in the trails, 6-8 inches deep with sharp edges. Just enough for the even a 700c wheel to 'fall into' and slam the edge, these are often every foot or 2 on frequently used paths... The extremely short topTube design also means I need a longer than the current stock Stem (110mm). Thinking 'RedShift Stem', but it seems the 120mm length is sold out

WHat size cranks are you using (crank Length) ?
Yesterday I found another consequence of this short TT design is a Front-center which is on the short end. Short enough to cause toe/wheel overlap.
I did a trackstand at a stop light, particularly broken pavement at the corner. Normally I don;t need to angle the wheel much or at all, but in this case a correction was necessary. I had the shoe toe trapped for just a split second (very round toe shoe, not sharp toe racing shoe). I was clipped in SPD. Thankfully I reacted and quickly backed out. Prolly not an issue if riding 'Flat' pedal, but if 'clipped in' it could be a real issue when doing tight switchbacks... Later I checked the contact range, and its about a +-10 Deg arch off horizontal.
Prolly due to short front-center and the 175 stock crank length.
Are you (and any other X owners/riders) experiencing toe overlap?
I'll stay alert now to not keep the cranks at horizontal on tight turn sections...
... more thoughts after a few more rides)
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Old 02-26-22, 10:45 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by cyclezen
Sweet ! Looks great !
Have a few rides now on mine, and very enjoyable. I do need to mitgate the some jarring from the front... A lot of what we can ride offroad, in our SB Valley are also used by the nurmerous 'horse' riders. Horses make deep holes in the trails, 6-8 inches deep with sharp edges. Just enough for the even a 700c wheel to 'fall into' and slam the edge, these are often every foot or 2 on frequently used paths... The extremely short topTube design also means I need a longer than the current stock Stem (110mm). Thinking 'RedShift Stem', but it seems the 120mm length is sold out

WHat size cranks are you using (crank Length) ?
Yesterday I found another consequence of this short TT design is a Front-center which is on the short end. Short enough to cause toe/wheel overlap.
I did a trackstand at a stop light, particularly broken pavement at the corner. Normally I don;t need to angle the wheel much or at all, but in this case a correction was necessary. I had the shoe toe trapped for just a split second (very round toe shoe, not sharp toe racing shoe). I was clipped in SPD. Thankfully I reacted and quickly backed out. Prolly not an issue if riding 'Flat' pedal, but if 'clipped in' it could be a real issue when doing tight switchbacks... Later I checked the contact range, and its about a +-10 Deg arch off horizontal.
Prolly due to short front-center and the 175 stock crank length.
Are you (and any other X owners/riders) experiencing toe overlap?
I'll stay alert now to not keep the cranks at horizontal on tight turn sections...
... more thoughts after a few more rides)
Yeah I find the geometry of the X has some pros and cons. I'm running SPD pedals and even shorter 165mm cranks and I still get occasional toe strike. On the previous frame I had (from which I swapped my GRX parts from), it had more of a touring geometry and with 165mm cranks I had no toe strike issues. It was one of the first things I noticed after doing the swap. I also had to shorten my chain because of the chain stay length.

I find the frame geometry does has some benefits for shorter riders allowing top tube spacing for a small frame bag w/water bottles. Also I feel I've been able to climb better with this frame (maybe due to the chain stay length?). I'm also able to sprint quite well on this bike, keeping up with full road bikes for short durations. In my opinion, the X has more of that CX geometry (taking cues from their Triton road bike), while the Redwood is definitely their true gravel bike (almost going into MTB territory).
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Old 02-27-22, 11:11 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by jonathanf2
Yeah I find the geometry of the X has some pros and cons. I'm running SPD pedals and even shorter 165mm cranks and I still get occasional toe strike. On the previous frame I had (from which I swapped my GRX parts from), it had more of a touring geometry and with 165mm cranks I had no toe strike issues. It was one of the first things I noticed after doing the swap. I also had to shorten my chain because of the chain stay length.

I find the frame geometry does has some benefits for shorter riders allowing top tube spacing for a small frame bag w/water bottles. Also I feel I've been able to climb better with this frame (maybe due to the chain stay length?). I'm also able to sprint quite well on this bike, keeping up with full road bikes for short durations. In my opinion, the X has more of that CX geometry (taking cues from their Triton road bike), while the Redwood is definitely their true gravel bike (almost going into MTB territory).
Yeah, geometry... usually one can work around 'geometry', as long as it's 'close'. I'd like a bunch more reach, but will adapt. Was hoping for a 120 Redshift stem, but will make do with a 110 (longest that's currently available). As for toe overlap, now that I know, I will know how to adapt. I've had bikes before with worse overlap, and dealt with it.
Overall my verdict on the Poseidon X is still very positive - I like it and how its config'd. It's not a racing bike, it is very adaptable for so many ride conditions - and it's helping me not turn every ride into a 'training' session... LOL!
One thing I've always done was keep my 'mtb' time into 'recreation' - difficulties in terrain and technique, but not in 'conditioning, speed or PBs'.
The gravel bike thing widens the window of what I can do on a ride, meld road and 'offroad', and add a little bit of fun speed.
some more note from yesterday's ride:
I had ordered and added a Continental Speed Ride 700x42 to the front, looking for a little more 'compliance' (with lower psi) for the smaller high frequency shocks which are common on much of the offroad around here. Definite improvement, but still looking forward to the Redshift stem to put more compliance into the front end. I did keep the Kenda Small Block on the rear - like it very much for that.
Turns out the stock wheels are a 21 internal, so the 35mm Kenda Small Block actually are 32mm on the rim and the Conti Speed Ride 42 becomes 38 on the rim. Quick math tells me that the stated spec stats for both tires are for '23 internal' rims. But no matter, both tires are working great.
BTW, the Conti Speed ride 42 are really great on hard pack, loose gravel, large rock face, and quite okay on grass and loose leaf litter/soil. Quite fast on tarmac. And can be run at lower pressures.
I ran the the Speed Rides at 35 psi yesterday, and they were great in all conditions - even short sand pits up to 30-40 yds (much longer than that and I run out of power/sauce ... LOL!); and still held good speed on tarmac, without feeling as though they were bogging down.
I think perfect for SoCal and other drier-not muddy conditions. I expect they'll do fine on wet conditions as well, but I won;t know that until we get some rain! LOL!
I resisted 'gravel' for a while, because I felt my 'mtb' bikes would be my 'offroad' solution. BUT the gravel bike is proving to be a great bridge between full-on mtb and full-on road.
The Redwood - seems to be - to me - a drivetrain updated version of my mtb rigid from the early 90's. Where as the X is an updated drivetrain (and more comfy) of my late 90's CX bike.
I prefer the speedy, lighter handling rather than plodding thru on an underteched old school rigid mtb. Though, the carbon fork on both is a huge improvement in compliance and in that way really helps in holding a 'line' when jolts might throw you off. Carbon fork makes the X 'Happen' !!!
Ride On
Yuri

Last edited by cyclezen; 02-27-22 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 02-28-22, 11:23 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by cyclezen
Yeah, geometry... usually one can work around 'geometry', as long as it's 'close'. I'd like a bunch more reach, but will adapt. Was hoping for a 120 Redshift stem, but will make do with a 110 (longest that's currently available). As for toe overlap, now that I know, I will know how to adapt. I've had bikes before with worse overlap, and dealt with it.
Overall my verdict on the Poseidon X is still very positive - I like it and how its config'd. It's not a racing bike, it is very adaptable for so many ride conditions - and it's helping me not turn every ride into a 'training' session... LOL!
One thing I've always done was keep my 'mtb' time into 'recreation' - difficulties in terrain and technique, but not in 'conditioning, speed or PBs'.
The gravel bike thing widens the window of what I can do on a ride, meld road and 'offroad', and add a little bit of fun speed.
Honestly the toe overlap only affects me when trail climbing very steep sections or trying to track stand at a light. Even then it's not that big of an issue. I ride my X here in LA exactly how you mentioned. I'll usually ride my X to an off-road location and then ride it back home linking dirt and road miles together. It's great because it really mixes up the routes and makes things more interesting. I even have my road bike setup now as a "light" gravel bike running 32c GravelKing SS tires with a bit of tread. Just in case I want to cut across a mild dirt path or two!
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Old 03-08-22, 10:09 AM
  #110  
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so, received the Redshift Stem over the weekend. Had some time yesterday and replaced the stock stem and bars with the Redshift and the 44 cm ZIPP Explorer Bars.
Left the Stem config'd with the elastomers which were pre-installed - 60 Orange & 70 Blue for weight range of 135-155 lbs. This felt quite solid/'stiff' enough.
Also put on the Deda bar tape.

Poseidon X w/RedShift 110mm Shockstop Stem, ZIPP Explorer Bars 44 cm & Deda Bar tape

Bike is currently not in 'presentation' mode - I've ridden it quite a bit since receiving it and it's quite dirty/dusty from the conditions.
I also need to buy some 'brown' vinyl tape - I like to tape the bar ends because that seems the area where scuffing always happens frequently and damages the bar tape.
Temporary use of black tape until I get Brown...
Riding... At first the Redshift stem (RS stem...) seemed 'tight', but quickly seemed to loosen a little. By the end of the 1 hour ride yesterday evening, it was nicely 'functioning'.
The Bars ? Awesome !!! Really quite nice with the ovalized/flatten bar tops, 'flare' down after the Shifter/lever location.
I have added some special quite firm silicone bar cover inserts under the bar tape. They're not the usual squishy Gel type - more firm.
I have large/long hands and a std bar circum. is uncomfortable small. This adds a good amount of circumference and adds just a touch of 'buffer'.
The stem works really great for 'larger' hits - one can really feel it aborbing the shock - without control loss. In fact, at no time did control feel any 'different' from normal 'unsprung' bars.
It did absorb a little of the much smaller, higher frequency hits one gets - that ratte feeling one gets over washboard/large gravel, etc. But I get the current 'config', it's meant to cover a full range.
take off some of the small hit impact and also not bottom out for the big hits...
I never came near even using 50% of the workable stem movement range... inspite of deliberately going over some serious rock ledge and garden. some root garden and long pothole stretches.
Ideally the RS stem could use a 2 stage working system - I think it can be easily engineered...
I think I can accomplish a lot of this with a 'Hack' to the current system... I'm definitely going to attempt this... will report back when I get some time with the 'hack' and results...
Front cockpit is 90% there - until I can get my hands on a 120 RS stem...
will also clean up the bike )LOL!), after I put the Charge Saddle on and do some more things with the 'seating' area.
Ride On
Jurij
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Old 03-30-22, 02:53 PM
  #111  
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Looking for some ideas, suggestions, another wheelset for my X... and since we're tawkin 135mm QR rear, that mostly X-specific and needs that knowledge
so, getting the X dialed in... Like much the Redshift stem, ZIPP Bars and Charge saddle on my RockShox seatpost .
Over all the X is a winner, for me. Nothing is 'perfect' - life works if one can focus on the positives, put the negs in the bkground.
So one month after getting it, and 300 miles, I think it's a 'keeper', with some 'adjustments'.
The bike, stock, weighs 27 lbs / 12.25 kg. It could stand to lose a little chunk...
2 obvious places for dropping weight - wheels and crankset/BB - keeping all the other components, as is.
I'm guessin there's an easy 800-900g to be found in the wheels and maybe 250 g in the cranks and BB.
A fact: the stock front wheel with Tektro 160 rotor is 1350 g !!! Published spec for the rotor is 245g , so the front wheel is likely 1105g
Front wheel internal width is 17.5 (same rim , same width on rear...)
Likely the Rear wheel is also proportional 'chunk' (not takin all the stuff off just to weigh...) minimum my guess is 1300 - 1400 g for the rear wheel.
so my guess is:
an 1800 g wheelset - 180g rotors - running tubeless ( 170 g net gain) - same tires as I'm currently using... = a net weight loss of 910g - roughly 2+ lbs...
...so ???
? I could use some help in finding a good wheelset which weighs 1800g or less, 135mm QR.
I'd be fine with 21 or 22 internal width, alloy is fine, carbon may be a bit over the final parameter, but a consideration, but maybe not with an Asian open mold wheelset... but 21 internal should be a minimum width...
Big Q - Wheelset for $500 USD or less ???
Your experience and suggestions are requested.
Thx
Yuri

Last edited by cyclezen; 03-30-22 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 03-30-22, 04:02 PM
  #112  
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The GRX wheelset ($440) is only TA so go with the FSA set which is about the same price and has QR & TA axles. I think around 1700 grams or so total for the set.
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Old 03-30-22, 04:10 PM
  #113  
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1629g and you get to select QR and spacing

https://us.huntbikewheels.com/collec...-disc-wheelset

$399
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Old 03-30-22, 05:14 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by dwmckee
The GRX wheelset ($440) is only TA so go with the FSA set which is about the same price and has QR & TA axles. I think around 1700 grams or so total for the set.
Thx, I will definitely look into the FSA with detail. Quick look shows it comes with multiple front axle caps for 12, 15 & QR and can handle 135 & 142 in the rear - which makes it usable if I go to a newer setup some time down the road... will check reviews and all specs. !
Thx
Yuri
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Old 03-30-22, 06:18 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by cyclezen
Thx, I will definitely look into the FSA with detail. Quick look shows it comes with multiple front axle caps for 12, 15 & QR and can handle 135 & 142 in the rear - which makes it usable if I go to a newer setup some time down the road... will check reviews and all specs. !
Thx
Yuri
No need to worry about QR wheels. Just purchase a TA wheelset and order the TA rear dropout + TA axle from Poseidon. You can either opt to swap the QR fork out which Poseidon also offers or keep it as-is and buy a TA to QR adapter from Amazon for $12. That GRX wheelset would be a great option for the price. I ended going with carbon wheels myself and it put my X just under 20 lbs. (that's on a small frame with full GRX400/600 2x groupset, Hollowtech II BB and a few more carbon bits).
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Old 03-30-22, 11:35 PM
  #116  
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Thanks Guyz, I hadn't considered, nor found real 'reference' to either of these wheelsets, prolly because I was looking for the 135mm and QR. Somehow neither wheelset showed in my searches...
But I've always found Shimano wheels to not only be good value, but also excellent performance and durability. My current quick searches also seem to show the FSA as good value and performance.
Both of these have moved to the top of my list... barring any other 'finds'...
I'll let you all know what I do... no rush, but the riding season is again in full swing for me, so waiting too long is no real benefit either... I'm doing a lot more miles/time, both gravel and mtb, than I expected to do, and it's all great being able to mix it up with 'road'.
Thx
Ride On
Yuri
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Old 04-01-22, 06:03 PM
  #117  
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Yeah, GRX or FSA wheels over the Hunts. We are a dealer for all three and can tell you that the Shimano and FSA wheelsets are far better made and just a wee bit more expensive. They are far worth every extra penny. The GRX wheels also are unlimited weight capacity as an extra bonus and testament to their durability. Your local shop may be your best source for GRX wheels as Shimano has prioritized stocking local shops over the big internet retailers, and the price will be the same in a local bike shop and online now with Shimano's new pricing policies.
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Old 04-03-22, 09:02 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by cyclezen
Thanks Guyz, I hadn't considered, nor found real 'reference' to either of these wheelsets, prolly because I was looking for the 135mm and QR. Somehow neither wheelset showed in my searches...
But I've always found Shimano wheels to not only be good value, but also excellent performance and durability. My current quick searches also seem to show the FSA as good value and performance.
Both of these have moved to the top of my list... barring any other 'finds'...
I'll let you all know what I do... no rush, but the riding season is again in full swing for me, so waiting too long is no real benefit either... I'm doing a lot more miles/time, both gravel and mtb, than I expected to do, and it's all great being able to mix it up with 'road'.
Thx
Ride On
Yuri
I would not spend a lot of time thinking about it. Supply for both is far less than demand and you may have to wait for them to be in stock. A good local dealer will let you place an order and submit it to Shimano who will now accept back orders from dealers and priority ship to them when stock is available. You will get Shimano wheels quicker that way. Just remember if you go Shimano than it is TA only.
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Old 04-03-22, 12:27 PM
  #119  
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I opted to order the FSA wheelset, given it is 'convertible' from QR to TA and 135 - 142; I won;t have to make any adjustments on the X.
Weight seems same/same. and both tubeless.
Not sure when I'll get them, but that's not a concern.
Will report back when they arrive and I do a first ride.
Ride On
Yuri
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Old 06-26-22, 08:09 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by dwmckee
Well, we have now serviced several of these in our gravel shop. Our verdict - They are right on the price-value continuum. They are acceptable for the price. They are not a $1500 bike for $900. If this is all you can afford then it is the best you can probably get for $900. If you can afford $200 - $300 more you get a lot more in value with an aluminum Revolt or an Aluminum Renegade or a Salsa Journeyer. Those three in the $1200 range give you Shimano shifters and components and a reasonably aligned frame. Fair but heavy wheels. a much better bike but a couple hundred more to spend. Well worth the extra $ if your budget can stretch a bit; if not the Poseidon is a reasonable cheaper option.
you say $900 but these bikes are $720 shipped with the Dropbar X and less for the flat bar. $900 is for the redwood. The next value packed price point you mention is $500 more. Which could upgrade the wheelset to something decent on an X and maybe compressionless housing to help brake feel.
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Old 06-26-22, 08:10 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by cyclezen
I opted to order the FSA wheelset, given it is 'convertible' from QR to TA and 135 - 142; I won;t have to make any adjustments on the X.
Weight seems same/same. and both tubeless.
Not sure when I'll get them, but that's not a concern.
Will report back when they arrive and I do a first ride.
Ride On
Yuri
Any notes on your experience Yuri?
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Old 06-26-22, 11:27 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Cnguyen323
Any notes on your experience Yuri?
Yeah, in a nutshell I'm extremely happy with the FSA NonSeries wheelset. Comes with adapters for all the common QR and TA setups - works great.
Wheel are substantially lighter than 'stock' X wheels, and by going tubeless (front) and TPU (rear), same cassette, there was a 2 lb weight savings.
Wheels ride nicely and don't mind taking a beating on lumpy trails, while still rolling nicely as you'd expect from good road wheels.
I actually did an extensive report on them (and other new stuff), in this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...l-bike-41.html
three posts to cover : #1001, 1003, 1005, if you're interested
Ride On
Yuri
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Old 06-27-22, 08:46 AM
  #123  
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Aging road biker here.
I ride gravel / canal paths maybe 2-3x a year.
I need a new bike that'll take fenders and light luggage for short credit card tours once in a while.
So this is very secondary to my road bike.
Was shopping Marin but now thinking the X might be perfectly adequate.
I get there's plenty of room for ugrades but is there anything that's really UNACCEPTABLE on the stock build?
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Old 06-27-22, 09:16 AM
  #124  
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My X spends most of its time relegated to trailer duty on pavement. As the kid gets heavier EVERY WEEK it became increasingly difficult to stop the ~70lb train behind me. Upgraded to thru axle, TRP HY/RD brakes, RT86 rotors, and compressionless housing. I could do stop it on the factory setup, but there was some shuttering when braking kind of hard. I just didn't want to be a liability on the group ride because I had to really anticipate the need to stop, so I upgraded. I had the TA fork painted in the process. Turned out nice.

I've got a set of gravel wheels and tires in addition to the road set if the event ever arises to take it off road.







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Old 06-27-22, 10:12 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by zowie
Aging road biker here.
I ride gravel / canal paths maybe 2-3x a year.
I need a new bike that'll take fenders and light luggage for short credit card tours once in a while.
So this is very secondary to my road bike.
Was shopping Marin but now thinking the X might be perfectly adequate.
I get there's plenty of room for ugrades but is there anything that's really UNACCEPTABLE on the stock build?
Only thing I HAD to change immediately was the saddle, at 130mm it is way too narrow for me. Minimum I need is 141-143, much wider not necessary for me.
Otherwise the 'stock' bike works precisely, shifting is precise and reliable, wheels are solid and run smoothly, mech discs work great (I will NOT change them to hydraulic - not necessary for me), 'fit'/position is adjustable within my preferences. 46cm bars are OK, but I prefer 44...
If I lived in an area with 'wet weather', I would seal the unused mount holes, like the brake holes in fork, extra cable hole in downtube. I did that anyway, because I don't want dust/dirt entry into the fork or frame.
Sturdy, reliable, fast enough considering the range of terrain it can handle.
I have too many bikes... but I have no further upgrade needs for this bike nor desire for 'more' gravel bike - like CF frame, yadda, yadda, yadda.
The X is way fun ride on the off-road stuff I have around me, and gives surpringly great road performance.
Best bike value I've ever paid for.
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT: OK, not using the stock flats, not using the CHester flats I tried. Put on Crank Bros ACID pedals I like...
Have 450 mi on the X so far, of which about 15 might be called 'gravel', 25mi road, remainder would be what most riders do on an mtb

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