Huffy + Campagnolo Super Record = The Ultimate C&V Sacrilege build
05-31-23, 10:38 AM
#1601
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05-31-23, 12:23 PM
#1602
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05-31-23, 12:53 PM
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05-31-23, 01:01 PM
#1604
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05-31-23, 01:04 PM
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Agreed. For a bike that has had so much attention paid to details, that gap seems quite unacceptable.
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05-31-23, 01:40 PM
#1606
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I guess you learn something every day!
I’m going to be stopping by the leather store on the way home for some toe clip material. If I get 1.5” width what length should I be looking for?
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05-31-23, 01:57 PM
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I have zero idea what length is typical for handlebar tape.
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05-31-23, 02:28 PM
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05-31-23, 02:32 PM
#1609
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Being a fishing rod builder/wrapper in a parallel universe I would consider wrapping the offensive bare sections with rod guide wrapping thread in red, white and blue bands. The outer band can be made to climb the end of the leather wrap to secure it. Using a bobbin will make it fairly easy to wrap the bar. Apply rod finish to bind the thread.
Edit:
Thread colors could be five, world champion or just red and white.
Edit:
Thread colors could be five, world champion or just red and white.
Last edited by stoneageyosh; 05-31-23 at 02:37 PM.
05-31-23, 03:52 PM
#1610
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Alright y’all convinced me. If these aren’t long enough, I will stitch them together with the other ones under the hoods.
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05-31-23, 04:08 PM
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Alex has likely ridden more than one AMF bike in his tenure. (I know I did when I was the Mechanical Steward of the race.) So he should know how to handle this ruffian of a bike. When will he be booked on a flight? Smiles, MH
05-31-23, 04:54 PM
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Looks more appropriate for toe clip straps.
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05-31-23, 04:58 PM
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If you don't know the "cutting the tape on an angle" trick, it goes something like this:
When wrapping bottom to top, approaching the sleeve looks a little like this:
As you near the sleeve, continue wrapping at the same angle, but cut the edge of the tape parallel to the sleave:
Roll the tape right up to the edge of the sleeve:
Finish how you see fit. I use electrical or silicon self-adhesive tape. I don't overlap the sleeve, but I don't see that being a problem unless it covers any graphics:
When wrapping bottom to top, approaching the sleeve looks a little like this:
As you near the sleeve, continue wrapping at the same angle, but cut the edge of the tape parallel to the sleave:Roll the tape right up to the edge of the sleeve:
Finish how you see fit. I use electrical or silicon self-adhesive tape. I don't overlap the sleeve, but I don't see that being a problem unless it covers any graphics:
05-31-23, 07:17 PM
#1614
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My hands are destroyed for the day and I still have one more full side to go.
I know some of you are dubious about the leather wrap and that’s fine. It’s not tradition and that’s probably a big reason. I like it and it looks better the more it ages. It looks really raw and naked when you first out it on but shows more and more character the more you interact with it. It isn’t a good match with the saddle now but will be eventually.
I know some of you are dubious about the leather wrap and that’s fine. It’s not tradition and that’s probably a big reason. I like it and it looks better the more it ages. It looks really raw and naked when you first out it on but shows more and more character the more you interact with it. It isn’t a good match with the saddle now but will be eventually.
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05-31-23, 07:18 PM
#1615
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If you don't know the "cutting the tape on an angle" trick, it goes something like this:
When wrapping bottom to top, approaching the sleeve looks a little like this:
As you near the sleeve, continue wrapping at the same angle, but cut the edge of the tape parallel to the sleave:
Roll the tape right up to the edge of the sleeve:
Finish how you see fit. I use electrical or silicon self-adhesive tape. I don't overlap the sleeve, but I don't see that being a problem unless it covers any graphics:
When wrapping bottom to top, approaching the sleeve looks a little like this:
As you near the sleeve, continue wrapping at the same angle, but cut the edge of the tape parallel to the sleave:Roll the tape right up to the edge of the sleeve:
Finish how you see fit. I use electrical or silicon self-adhesive tape. I don't overlap the sleeve, but I don't see that being a problem unless it covers any graphics:
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05-31-23, 07:22 PM
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My hands are destroyed for the day and I still have one more full side to go.
I know some of you are dubious about the leather wrap and that’s fine. It’s not tradition and that’s probably a big reason. I like it and it looks better the more it ages. It looks really raw and naked when you first out it on but shows more and more character the more you interact with it. It isn’t a good match with the saddle now but will be eventually.
I know some of you are dubious about the leather wrap and that’s fine. It’s not tradition and that’s probably a big reason. I like it and it looks better the more it ages. It looks really raw and naked when you first out it on but shows more and more character the more you interact with it. It isn’t a good match with the saddle now but will be eventually.
Last edited by smd4; 05-31-23 at 07:57 PM.
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05-31-23, 07:28 PM
#1617
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Got some for that too, which means it will be matching!
It is an aberration, just like a Super Record Huffy. I actually like the way it feels. It’s soft in a firm way; not harsh.
EDIT: Totally misread your post! You probably saw that in the picture there was some leather that was stubby and thick. That is indeed for toe straps.
Sorry bout that. I'm beat and used up. Just in time to ride 100mi. I suppose it wouldn't have the same meaning if it wasn't a struggle. Thanks for your continued interest and support!
It is an aberration, just like a Super Record Huffy. I actually like the way it feels. It’s soft in a firm way; not harsh.
EDIT: Totally misread your post! You probably saw that in the picture there was some leather that was stubby and thick. That is indeed for toe straps.
Sorry bout that. I'm beat and used up. Just in time to ride 100mi. I suppose it wouldn't have the same meaning if it wasn't a struggle. Thanks for your continued interest and support!
Last edited by AdventureManCO; 05-31-23 at 09:19 PM.
05-31-23, 07:44 PM
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Yet another struggle overcome.
Destroyed hands indeed!
How many pounds of tension did you apply to that second go at tape wrapping?
At least it won't have any tendency towards slipping on the bar!
Destroyed hands indeed!
How many pounds of tension did you apply to that second go at tape wrapping?
At least it won't have any tendency towards slipping on the bar!
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05-31-23, 07:53 PM
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Do you need the brake hoods for those levers? I get the ones from Dennis in CA. smiles, MH
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05-31-23, 08:49 PM
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My hands are destroyed for the day and I still have one more full side to go.
I know some of you are dubious about the leather wrap and that’s fine. It’s not tradition and that’s probably a big reason. I like it and it looks better the more it ages. It looks really raw and naked when you first out it on but shows more and more character the more you interact with it. It isn’t a good match with the saddle now but will be eventually.
I know some of you are dubious about the leather wrap and that’s fine. It’s not tradition and that’s probably a big reason. I like it and it looks better the more it ages. It looks really raw and naked when you first out it on but shows more and more character the more you interact with it. It isn’t a good match with the saddle now but will be eventually.
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05-31-23, 09:19 PM
#1622
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05-31-23, 10:41 PM
#1623
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Well, another day, another round of pain and suffering. Lol it just never seems to end with this thing. After all this, it will be the rear wheel. After that, something else I'm sure!
I thought I'd maybe get at least a day to rest from the bike constantly nagging me, but it looks like that's not going to happen
Today it was the bar tape, tomorrow it will be the cages. Still need a water bottle cage mounted. Still don't have a stand. Heck, I don't even have biking shorts yet
We're gonna be riding into this thing on a wing and a prayer!
See the different coloration? On the previous leather wrap, I split a wider piece of leather, so it was from the same piece. These are two completely different pieces, so they are going to react to everything just a bit differently. I chose the both because they were closest to the same color in the store. Well we see how that worked out haha. But, I kinda like it. Adds a bit of quirk to the bike, and it will probably become more subtle as the leather darkens with age, use, and sunlight.
I'm pleased with out the wrap came out - I'm very thankful it is somewhat symmetrical.
That's all for tonight, my hands are feeling it. Tomorrow, the work wont stop. I really need to think about a stand...
Mad Honk I got your piece of plexiglass in the mail the other day, thank you! Can I just mimick those rear alloy stands that go in the rear? How do those work, does it just mount on the NDS where the axle cone nuts are?
I thought I'd maybe get at least a day to rest from the bike constantly nagging me, but it looks like that's not going to happen
Today it was the bar tape, tomorrow it will be the cages. Still need a water bottle cage mounted. Still don't have a stand. Heck, I don't even have biking shorts yet
We're gonna be riding into this thing on a wing and a prayer!
See the different coloration? On the previous leather wrap, I split a wider piece of leather, so it was from the same piece. These are two completely different pieces, so they are going to react to everything just a bit differently. I chose the both because they were closest to the same color in the store. Well we see how that worked out haha. But, I kinda like it. Adds a bit of quirk to the bike, and it will probably become more subtle as the leather darkens with age, use, and sunlight.
I'm pleased with out the wrap came out - I'm very thankful it is somewhat symmetrical.
That's all for tonight, my hands are feeling it. Tomorrow, the work wont stop. I really need to think about a stand...
Mad Honk I got your piece of plexiglass in the mail the other day, thank you! Can I just mimick those rear alloy stands that go in the rear? How do those work, does it just mount on the NDS where the axle cone nuts are?
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05-31-23, 11:15 PM
#1624
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I don’t even know where to begin. Thank you or berate you?
This thread has stimulated conversations, while at the same time disturbing the harmony of my own household. My young daughter sent me this text while I was at work today.
Thats a real screenshot, btw. I think she will get over it (with time, lots of therapy, and possibly inheriting one of my bikes some day).
05-31-23, 11:16 PM
#1625
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This well-developed project is truly a lesson in time/cost-no-object perseverence, which I'm sure has been therapeutic if you have anything like a "typical" day job.
I enjoyed seeing all of the obstacles overcome, one by one. The arrival of the brazing torches took it to the next level!
I'm really not surprised that it's a great-riding bike, especially if the frame dimensions fit you. I believe (based on my own measurements of 22- and 23-inch frames) that Huffy shared the time-proven geometry from Schwinn's electro-forged models, so how could it not ride well, comfortably so, once the saddle and handlebar cockpit are up to standards?
This thing is a rolling conversation piece.
I'm looking forward to the many photos that this project deserves, including (hopefully) the look on people's faces as they take in this bike during inspection.
I'm guessing at this bike weighing 27-28 pounds.
The right/rear brake cable would normally rest to the other side of the stem, but with such a short stem it might need to be tucked under the front brake's cable to stay there, and which might necessitate a bit of shortening of the front brake housing to equalize the loops(???)...
If the steering is twitchy it might only be because of a slow speed exacerbating the steering flop factor of the 70-degree HT angle, otherwise I would check the headset bearing tension with the front wheel removed or with the headtube held at 90-degrees (i.e. vertical) to discern any bearing drag.
Best wishes on your big weekend going well, hopefully you'll have time to get everything feeling fully sorted by then.
The spoke nipples need fixing, I have a few tricks I use to get them turning.
First is to lubricate them from both ends using your best penetrant, don't forget the rim-seating area which by itself can effect a LOT of torsional resistance to turning.
Allow said penetrant some time to work if possible.
Apply wrench torque using a slightly-undersized spoke wrench, in both directions. Then do the same on the other pair of flats. Repeat.
Failing the above attempts to get the nipple moving, apply a smooth-jawed Vice-Grip to a pair of flats, but slide it down to meet the rim first. Then squeeze, then twist, first in one direction and then the other. Repeat. Then move 90-degrees and squeeze the other pair of flats. Then twist back and forth again This ovalizes the threaded bore, allowing the threads to free up and the penetrant to migrate.
The idea here is not to exceed the torsional strength of the spoke with any one twist.
Lastly, apply a pencil-point torch tip to the nipple, but not to the spoke which might lose it's temper. Then quickly apply wrench or Vice-Grip torque to one set of flats and then to the other. Again, this works the bore of the nipple a bit, allowing the corrosive bond to break.
A spoke nipple that has damaged flats can be turned using a well-fitting screwdriver blade, in concert with whatever wrench torque can be applied to the damaged flats. A Vice-Grip often offers some last-resort grip and torque on a damaged nipple.
Be sure to have some spare nipples handy with the exact same wrench-size (Japanese, Euro, DT in descending size order), and replace any bad ones. I forced (sliding action toward the rim) the Green "Euro" wrench onto the Japanese spoke nipples yesterday, with good results.
An ovalized spoke nipple can still have torque applied using the other set of flats, or the original set of flats when applying reverse-torque (assuming it was first damaged in the tightening direction).
Lastly, before adjusting any damaged or heavily-tight spoke, always first check what's going on with it's neighboring spokes on the same side of the wheel, using comparative spoke-plucking tone (with a finger held against any crossing/touching spoke to damp it's also ringing). Also check the two closest opposite-side spokes for their comparative tension along that side of the wheel. The spoke tension uniformity should thus only improve as a wheel is dished and trued (an efficient builder is thus making the rim run truer and the spoke tensions more uniform at the same time).
I spent some hours over the last couple of days fighting with having to re-dish an old, weathered rear wheel and a mis-dished front wheel. A lotta time spent on those two wheels so it's still all-too-fresh in my recollections!
I enjoyed seeing all of the obstacles overcome, one by one. The arrival of the brazing torches took it to the next level!
I'm really not surprised that it's a great-riding bike, especially if the frame dimensions fit you. I believe (based on my own measurements of 22- and 23-inch frames) that Huffy shared the time-proven geometry from Schwinn's electro-forged models, so how could it not ride well, comfortably so, once the saddle and handlebar cockpit are up to standards?
This thing is a rolling conversation piece.
I'm looking forward to the many photos that this project deserves, including (hopefully) the look on people's faces as they take in this bike during inspection.
I'm guessing at this bike weighing 27-28 pounds.
The right/rear brake cable would normally rest to the other side of the stem, but with such a short stem it might need to be tucked under the front brake's cable to stay there, and which might necessitate a bit of shortening of the front brake housing to equalize the loops(???)...
If the steering is twitchy it might only be because of a slow speed exacerbating the steering flop factor of the 70-degree HT angle, otherwise I would check the headset bearing tension with the front wheel removed or with the headtube held at 90-degrees (i.e. vertical) to discern any bearing drag.
Best wishes on your big weekend going well, hopefully you'll have time to get everything feeling fully sorted by then.
The spoke nipples need fixing, I have a few tricks I use to get them turning.
First is to lubricate them from both ends using your best penetrant, don't forget the rim-seating area which by itself can effect a LOT of torsional resistance to turning.
Allow said penetrant some time to work if possible.
Apply wrench torque using a slightly-undersized spoke wrench, in both directions. Then do the same on the other pair of flats. Repeat.
Failing the above attempts to get the nipple moving, apply a smooth-jawed Vice-Grip to a pair of flats, but slide it down to meet the rim first. Then squeeze, then twist, first in one direction and then the other. Repeat. Then move 90-degrees and squeeze the other pair of flats. Then twist back and forth again This ovalizes the threaded bore, allowing the threads to free up and the penetrant to migrate.
The idea here is not to exceed the torsional strength of the spoke with any one twist.
Lastly, apply a pencil-point torch tip to the nipple, but not to the spoke which might lose it's temper. Then quickly apply wrench or Vice-Grip torque to one set of flats and then to the other. Again, this works the bore of the nipple a bit, allowing the corrosive bond to break.
A spoke nipple that has damaged flats can be turned using a well-fitting screwdriver blade, in concert with whatever wrench torque can be applied to the damaged flats. A Vice-Grip often offers some last-resort grip and torque on a damaged nipple.
Be sure to have some spare nipples handy with the exact same wrench-size (Japanese, Euro, DT in descending size order), and replace any bad ones. I forced (sliding action toward the rim) the Green "Euro" wrench onto the Japanese spoke nipples yesterday, with good results.
An ovalized spoke nipple can still have torque applied using the other set of flats, or the original set of flats when applying reverse-torque (assuming it was first damaged in the tightening direction).
Lastly, before adjusting any damaged or heavily-tight spoke, always first check what's going on with it's neighboring spokes on the same side of the wheel, using comparative spoke-plucking tone (with a finger held against any crossing/touching spoke to damp it's also ringing). Also check the two closest opposite-side spokes for their comparative tension along that side of the wheel. The spoke tension uniformity should thus only improve as a wheel is dished and trued (an efficient builder is thus making the rim run truer and the spoke tensions more uniform at the same time).
I spent some hours over the last couple of days fighting with having to re-dish an old, weathered rear wheel and a mis-dished front wheel. A lotta time spent on those two wheels so it's still all-too-fresh in my recollections!
I really appreciate your thorough and detailed post regarding the rear wheel and the spoke/nipple issue. My sincere hope is that if I simply ignore it, it will magically get in perfect alignment w/ new hardware replacing the stripped stuff. Since working on the Huffy, I've been unknowingly practicing my 'living in lala/fantasy land' mindset.
Thank you for your kind comments.
This has be a labor of love project for me. It's also be a labor of endless frustration, a labor of pain and exhaustion lol. Hopefully it culminates in a bike that is able to stay on the road a long time and people can have a lot of fun around.
It definitely weighs less than 28lbs. Actually, hold on...let me go weigh it....
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