Classtime 

The axles on my wheels extend too far for the quick release to get a good hold. I can use a washer on the outside or the inside. Or I can shorten the axle. What is recommended. I'm accustomed to swapping wheel sets among my 126 spaced bikes but it seems like that won't work in this case and I should leave this bike at 122 and get a wheelset dedicated to it.

krakhaus 

I've never really thought about that, but I guess that's why stamped dropout bikes always have solid axles. I'm guessing you could use a washer without any real problems. I'd probably use one large enough to increase the surface area of where it contacts the dropout, just to add a little strength.

obrentharris 

I opt for shortening the axle. I don't trust washers to provide the same grip on the dropout as a knurled locknut or knurled quick release body.
Brent

T.W.O.

I would consider removing both outer knurled locknuts and adding a thin stainless steel washer of the correct size on each side of the axle. Then screw the knurled locknuts back on, adjust the tension on the bearings and maybe check the dish (though it should not have changed). That would effectively shorten the amount of axle protruding from the locknut and you could return the hub to original condition later on if you wished.

branko_76 

Yes, I would do that before shortening the axle. The rear stays would need to be reset and dropouts aligned to fit the hub. The only problem with that is they won't solve the op's problem.


...

branko_76 

That would be the best option. There were many, many bikes that had stamped dropouts and 122mm rear hubs. Plain-Jane high flange Normandy hubs from the 1970's have that spacing and are abundant on the used market.

oneclick 

If the OP does go Normandy, he should check the cone and race condition. The cones are only case-hardened, and they pit easily, and a lot of times they weren't that smooth to start with - here's an example, the ball track has only just started to form (it's not even as marked as the ring from the dustcap), those pits were there first:




And if does go Normandy, he should also start looking for spare hubs/cones. I do.

Narhay

Cut the axle or find one that can accommodate your 122mm dropouts. 2mm extra overhang on either side is a fair bit for thin dropouts.

JohnDThompson 

The quick release should work as long as the axle does not extend past the dropout face. Either add washers or shorten the axle if this is an issue.

Classtime 

My Raleigh GS with the stamped dropouts didn’t come to me with wheels and I was hoping to use some 36 hole 27 inch MA40 laced to Mavic 500. The Mavics don’t lend themselves to shortened axles. I think I’d go Helicomatic before I going Normandy Sport. Yikes. I thought this would be a common problem with known and commonly used workarounds.

T-Mar

Axle protrusion normally isn't a problem on the drive side due the extra width of the claw adapter. The width of a stamped dropout plus claw adapter should be pretty close to a forged dropout. By adjusting cones to provide more axle protrusion on the drive side, you just may be able to get away without using any spacers or shortening the axle.

If not, have you thought of installing a claw adapter on the non-drive dropout? That would effectively widen the dropout, though you might have to play around with fore-aft positioning to centre the wheel between the chain stays.

randyjawa 

First, it is far more common for quick releases to work on stamped drops. The drops are just too thin, generally.

I have run into this situation time and time again. I feel no worries over removing a wee bit (enough necessary), from each end to shorten the axle. Be forewarned, though that you just might run into a second problem...

Quick release (hollow, as a rule) are slightly larger in diameter than nutted axles. That slightly larger diameter means that the axle will not fit into the front drop slots (assuming the front drops are also stamped). In such a case, I do my best to equally file flats onto the ends of the axle. I never file the drops (I am not a fan of altering bicycle frames or forks).

Hope that is a bit of help.

FBOATSB

Knurled washers are readily available in many flavors that would bite into the dropouts quite nicely.

branko_76 

I've seen pitting on Normandy cones, but never on the races.

https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones.html

Classtime 

Brilliant. And I think I have one.

70sSanO

A reversed (clamp/screw) claw hanger is a great idea. If it does the job, cut off the hanger portion and none will be the wiser.

John

Chombi1 

I remember the skewer rod threaded end poking out of the skewer nut a bit on the drive side dropout of my 1982 Peugeot PH10S, because it had the thinner stamped dropouts. Otherwise the OLD was as typical for that time (122mm, IIRC.) . So it only affects the skewers. Best to make sure that you have enough threads at the end of the skewer rod to make sure the skewer nut does not bottom out on the shaft before it can clamp down hard enough on the dropout.

John E

??? Circa 1970, many bikes, including the Peugeot UO-8, the Schwinn Continental, and the American Eagle Semi-Pro, had stamped dropouts and rear QR. Same with the 1960 Capos, although the top-of-the-line Siegers (pictured) admittedly did have a pair of clever U-shaped braze-ons to give the appearance and function of a forged dropout. I have never had a problem I couldn't resolve with an extra washer/spacer or two on the axle.

Road Fan

Stamped dropout bikes in the '67 through maybe 1980s did in fact have QRs: UO-8's, my Ernie Clements 1969 Falcon, the Raleigh Gran Prix and Super Courses are good examples. Also there were legions of other French bikes that to all appearances were clones of the UO-8 (or just imitated each other, and similar for entry level Italian bikes, such as cheap Atala, Benotto, and Fiorelli, which were common in Chicago, often with now-vaunted Nuovo Tipo hubs.

In my memory the premise about nutted attachments is not correct.

branko_76 

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Quick-Release skewers have "hollow ground" bearing surfaces which allows for some axle protrusion from the dropouts. Forged drop-outs that I've measured are 7mm thick, the thinnest stamped d.o. from a 1970's Raleigh is 4.5mm, that's 2.5mm difference. This Maillard skewer has a 3mm counter-bore, that's a little too close for comfort, but with a little fussing, it could work...

.

cudak888 

Another vote for taking up the extra axle width by adding a washer between the cone and the locknut. It works, it's reversible, it's not a pain every time you remove the wheel, and it's simple to do.

There's no reason to create a second set of problems by putting a washer outboard of the locknut. Given how easy it is to install a washer as described above, this is both lazy and silly.

-Kurt

Classtime 

The washer outboard of the locknut was a pain. As was a washer outboard of the dropout. I was already spreading the rear end to accommodate the 126 wheel and would rather not spread any further for a washer inboard. The claw adapter works well for now and if this bike becomes a regular rider, I will build a wheelset with the correct length axle.