Frame Saver: OK, now what, removing excess
01-28-21, 01:54 PM
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Frame Saver: OK, now what, removing excess
After reading a lot of pros/cons on Frame Saver, and other products, I bought a can. The frames are old, and while I am not a foul-weather cyclist, Maryland's humidity might hurt the bikes. Watched the videos and did one frame of several I am working on. Carefully worked at not straying too much, and rating the frame, etc. Plugged the holes with wadded paper towels per instructions, left the bike to sit per instructions for 24 hours.
Today, hopefully the frame is protected. Alas, some FS leaked past the wadded paper towels (Shoot! I did not use Bounty brand!) and now have a bit of resinous deposit that sits on a some of the bottom bracket threads.
Any idea on what removes this stuff? Been Google'ing the brand and on the back of the can it reads "Echelon Performance Products" but that website seems to be gone, so I cannot ask them. Hopefully someone knows what dissolves this stuff. Or to I have to fabricate thread chasers (this frame is British, but to do my other frames I'd need a set in French, one in Italian, and whatever the Zeus is).
Today, hopefully the frame is protected. Alas, some FS leaked past the wadded paper towels (Shoot! I did not use Bounty brand!) and now have a bit of resinous deposit that sits on a some of the bottom bracket threads.
Any idea on what removes this stuff? Been Google'ing the brand and on the back of the can it reads "Echelon Performance Products" but that website seems to be gone, so I cannot ask them. Hopefully someone knows what dissolves this stuff. Or to I have to fabricate thread chasers (this frame is British, but to do my other frames I'd need a set in French, one in Italian, and whatever the Zeus is).
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Last edited by tiger1964; 01-28-21 at 01:54 PM. Reason: .
01-28-21, 02:13 PM
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The MSDS shows the primary ingredient (25-50%) is Aliphatic solvent (wax-based, IIRC): https://problemsolversbike.com/files...ver_SDS_VF.pdf
The secondary and tertiary ingredients (10-25%/ea) are Naphthenic Petroleum Oil and Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Solvent, which I believe is probably what they're using to liquefy the product, allowing you to shoot it out.
If accurate, you'd probably want to use a wax removal product like naptha to liquefy the wax that's hardened there? While I've found PB Blaster is incredibly effective at removing old grease and various buildup, but not sure it'll be effective against wax-based stuff.
EDIT: For the record, I'm not a chemical engineer. Take my words with a grain of salt. You may want to wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in on this.
EDIT2: Mineral Spirits may also work, it's almost like "naptha lite"
The secondary and tertiary ingredients (10-25%/ea) are Naphthenic Petroleum Oil and Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Solvent, which I believe is probably what they're using to liquefy the product, allowing you to shoot it out.
If accurate, you'd probably want to use a wax removal product like naptha to liquefy the wax that's hardened there? While I've found PB Blaster is incredibly effective at removing old grease and various buildup, but not sure it'll be effective against wax-based stuff.
EDIT: For the record, I'm not a chemical engineer. Take my words with a grain of salt. You may want to wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in on this.
EDIT2: Mineral Spirits may also work, it's almost like "naptha lite"
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Last edited by francophile; 01-28-21 at 02:18 PM.
01-28-21, 02:42 PM
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After reading a lot of pros/cons on Frame Saver, and other products, I bought a can. The frames are old, and while I am not a foul-weather cyclist, Maryland's humidity might hurt the bikes. Watched the videos and did one frame of several I am working on. Carefully worked at not straying too much, and rating the frame, etc. Plugged the holes with wadded paper towels per instructions, left the bike to sit per instructions for 24 hours.
Today, hopefully the frame is protected. Alas, some FS leaked past the wadded paper towels (Shoot! I did not use Bounty brand!) and now have a bit of resinous deposit that sits on a some of the bottom bracket threads.
Any idea on what removes this stuff? Been Google'ing the brand and on the back of the can it reads "Echelon Performance Products" but that website seems to be gone, so I cannot ask them. Hopefully someone knows what dissolves this stuff. Or to I have to fabricate thread chasers (this frame is British, but to do my other frames I'd need a set in French, one in Italian, and whatever the Zeus is).
Today, hopefully the frame is protected. Alas, some FS leaked past the wadded paper towels (Shoot! I did not use Bounty brand!) and now have a bit of resinous deposit that sits on a some of the bottom bracket threads.
Any idea on what removes this stuff? Been Google'ing the brand and on the back of the can it reads "Echelon Performance Products" but that website seems to be gone, so I cannot ask them. Hopefully someone knows what dissolves this stuff. Or to I have to fabricate thread chasers (this frame is British, but to do my other frames I'd need a set in French, one in Italian, and whatever the Zeus is).
I only use the chasers on bad threads after I scribe them clean with a right angle pick, which you could also use for this.
01-28-21, 02:47 PM
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Good stuff here, I think! 
Well I have both PB Blaster and mineral spirits here. 
But no naphtha
Well I have both the plumber's brush (glad to take time off from sweating pipe, and work on bikes for a change!) and a very small right-angle pick.
The MSDS shows the primary ingredient (25-50%) is Aliphatic solvent (wax-based, IIRC): https://problemsolversbike.com/files...ver_SDS_VF.pdf The secondary and tertiary ingredients (10-25%/ea) are Naphthenic Petroleum Oil and Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Solvent, which I believe is probably what they're using to liquefy the product, allowing you to shoot it out. If accurate, you'd probably want to use a wax removal product like naptha to liquefy the wax that's hardened there? While I've found PB Blaster is incredibly effective at removing old grease and various buildup, but not sure it'll be effective against wax-based stuff.
EDIT: For the record, I'm not a chemical engineer. Take my words with a grain of salt. You may want to wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in on this.
EDIT2: Mineral Spirits may also work, it's almost like "naptha lite"
EDIT: For the record, I'm not a chemical engineer. Take my words with a grain of salt. You may want to wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in on this.
EDIT2: Mineral Spirits may also work, it's almost like "naptha lite"
But no naphthaLook up cosmoline, I would be inclined to leave a trace for anti-seize. I also use plumbers internal pipe cleaner brush to clean dirty threads. You can get them at HD. I only use the chasers on bad threads after I scribe them clean with a right angle pick, which you could also use for this.
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
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01-28-21, 02:49 PM
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The MSDS shows the primary ingredient (25-50%) is Aliphatic solvent (wax-based, IIRC): https://problemsolversbike.com/files...ver_SDS_VF.pdf
The secondary and tertiary ingredients (10-25%/ea) are Naphthenic Petroleum Oil and Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Solvent, which I believe is probably what they're using to liquefy the product, allowing you to shoot it out.
If accurate, you'd probably want to use a wax removal product like naptha to liquefy the wax that's hardened there? While I've found PB Blaster is incredibly effective at removing old grease and various buildup, but not sure it'll be effective against wax-based stuff.
EDIT: For the record, I'm not a chemical engineer. Take my words with a grain of salt. You may want to wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in on this.
EDIT2: Mineral Spirits may also work, it's almost like "naptha lite"
The secondary and tertiary ingredients (10-25%/ea) are Naphthenic Petroleum Oil and Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Solvent, which I believe is probably what they're using to liquefy the product, allowing you to shoot it out.
If accurate, you'd probably want to use a wax removal product like naptha to liquefy the wax that's hardened there? While I've found PB Blaster is incredibly effective at removing old grease and various buildup, but not sure it'll be effective against wax-based stuff.
EDIT: For the record, I'm not a chemical engineer. Take my words with a grain of salt. You may want to wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in on this.
EDIT2: Mineral Spirits may also work, it's almost like "naptha lite"
"Prep-Sol" used to remove wax on car paint prior to refinishing I think would work.
The framesaver appears to work but I have always been a bit leery of it.
01-28-21, 02:51 PM
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Mineral spirits is automotive clearcoat safe, it's safe for nearly all cured paint, I don't see a reason you can't give it a go unless you've got some special case here. Just know it may take a little work and product, it's not as stout as other products.
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01-28-21, 02:55 PM
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You can "rock" your wrist to dig out trouble spots and help straighten threads before chasing for a very good result with less resistance.
01-28-21, 09:44 PM
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Why not just chase the threads?
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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01-29-21, 01:26 PM
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Maybe this stuff is not so difficult to deal with as I thought. Under ten minutes with a very small right-angle pick chipped it all out. I guess the pile of shavings added up to a tablespoon. I have not tried threading in anything yet, but I am seeing a lot of "shiny" in there. I did two more frames just now and I am grabbing the last two. By the way, found a couple of fork blades and seat stays without holes to spray anything in; hoping that means rust cannot get in either...
Hmm, I wiped down the frames with mineral spirits before wiping down with alcohol, prior to installing decals, to ensure removing any residue on the powder coating. I guess it should have occurred to me "is this safe"?
Ideally. But, don't have the tools. I have a French tap on loan but with taps and thread chasers being different things, I better not. Could have made chasers via cutting slots in some old BB cups. Again, I'd need at least three different sets.
Ideally. But, don't have the tools. I have a French tap on loan but with taps and thread chasers being different things, I better not. Could have made chasers via cutting slots in some old BB cups. Again, I'd need at least three different sets.
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
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01-30-21, 09:12 AM
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I'm pretty sure I'e cleaned the drips from seatstay vents with the 90% alcohol I used to clean my weedpipes.
