bikingshearer 

I am installing a new KMC 10sp chain, replacing an old KMC 10sp chain. The new master link simply will not click into place. It slides right into place off the chain, but resists all attempts to get it to do so on the chain. It's as if either the plates a critical fraction of a millimeter too thick or the pins are a critical fraction of a millimeter too short. I've tried everything I can think of and am at my wit's end (admittedly not a long journey).

Anyone else have this same issue? Better yet, anyone have a solution?

Thanks.

trailangel

Did you orientate the QL to the top of the drive and slam the crank forward?

Crankycrank

First it should say "10S" on the quicklink. (not sure if that applies to all KMC 10speed QL's but the ones I've seen do) If you have the old link compare the widths and if you have the old link you can certainly use that on the new chain until you get a replacement. If you have some calipers try measuring the pin and assembled width of the link. Could just be a dud link which KMC would probably replace for free.

bikingshearer 

Just tried that and it appears to have worked. Many thanks. I would not have thought of that for a long time, if ever.

bikingshearer 

Thanks for the suggestions. Trailangel’s quick and dirty tip seems to have worked.

And yes, the link says “10s” on it It better have, as it is what came in the sealed package with the chain.

It seems like KMC master links have gotten harder and harder to install over the years. The last few have been harder than I remember them being, but even the harder to install ones weren’t impossible like this one was, at least until I went cave man on it.

hokiefyd 

I usually have a pretty easy time with them, but I had a newer KMC 9-speed master link that was difficult to use. I finally broke down and bought the pliers from my LBS and couldn't help but smile at how easy the job was with those pliers. It's one of those deals where the right tool for the job is relatively inexpensive and simple, and yet I've resisted buying it for years. It's a great addition to the tool box.

trailangel

Just make sure it "clips in" on both sides.

shelbyfv

I too have found the 10 and 11 speed links more difficult to install. I use the tool at home but it's good to know some other solutions if on the road repair is needed.

easyupbug 

You might get a caliper out and measure, I always check a new package. Last ones were 11 speed, the KMC reuseable were all 5.709 to 5.711mm , the non-reuseable was all over 5.8+mm so pretty universal but SRAM varied from 5.609 to 5.630mm so might not be usable on some chains.

bikingshearer 

I have the Park pliers to remove the master link, but I di dnot know there was one for installing them. Who makes one and, if possible, what does it look like?

shelbyfv

The newer model Park tool goes both ways.

shelbyfv

Pop N Wood

I've been on other bike forums where the collective wisdom is to always pinch the sides of quick link plates together with a pair of pliers when taking a quick link in or out. they all feel this lessens the wear on the mating surfaces making the quick link reusable.

Not sure if I'm a believer yet but I figure it can't hurt and do so as well. It does seem to make them slightly easier to install sometimes.

RGMN

KMC makes separate opener and closer tools

Troul 

IME; Slam'N'Go is the method that has always worked. Never had one that partially engaged. It is key to position the chain with the least amount of offset when installed around the rear cog & around a crank gear while choosing the a high gear ratio. Example: 27r 34f seems common with a straight chainline

SkinGriz

Thank you. Now I also know.

gearbasher

I had one 10s KMC link that just would not work for me. I have the pliers and I tried the "slam the crank" method. It wouldn't work. I used a link from another new chain and it worked fine. I emailed KMC about it. They had me send them the link and they sent a new one to me. That one worked fine. Never found out what the issue was.

Chuckles1

I've found that you can install them without a tool, and the key is similar to above quote. Put chain on small/small cogs to minimize strain, make sure links are in position, and wiggle the opposite plates between thumb and index until you feel they are as close together as they're going to get. Then a gentle push on crank is enough to lock them.

trailangel

Doesn't matter what gear you are in.... just so you are not severely cross chained. You don't need to "Slam the Crank".. like I previously said (figure of speech)... there is so much leverage it pops into place easily.
I am not a Pro Bike Mechanic.. but I play one on the internet....and I thought everyone knew how to close the link.

BCDrums

Nobody has mentioned this yet, but if you use a Wippermann Connex master link,



you don't need a tool to remove or replace it.


These links cost more than a KMC link, but you don't have to buy a tool. Here's a picture of a KMC link I received with a chain. No tool would make this one close!

squirtdad

i consider the part tool (older one) one of the best tool investments i have made. it does work for removing, if a little awkward, I pull the handles apart to remove. shimano has really nice one where you cnange the pivot for install/remove

bikingshearer 

Thanks for the great info, folks. I never used to have issues installing KMC master links - I was able to get them to work by just pulling on them. The previous one or two were hard - I was ultimately able to get them to click into place, but not without tugging, creative use of pliers and a healthy dose of Anglo-Saxon invective. This latest one was simply impossible until I used the slam-and-go technique - I had never heard of it before. Maybe KMC links are getting tighter, maybe I'm getting weaker (not at all unlikely), but I'm glad I checked in here.

I have v.1 of the Park tool. I will get either the Park v.1.2 . or the KMC remover tool to avoid future such fun and games.

Thanks to all. As usual, BF comes through.

Troul 

IF I were to invest in a dedicated tool as such, I'd go this route.

jccaclimber

Degreasing the link halves as well as the next link on each end of the chain sometimes helps a bit for install and removal. The side plates need to fit fully within the groove in the pins or they don't like to go in. I've seen some links where it does actually snap into place, but not recently. Often pinching the sides together and working them back and forth a few times (rotating the chain about the roller) helps with this as well.
In cases where a bit of persuasion is warranted and I don't have any pliers handy I simply hold the rear brake and bounce on a forward facing pedal to snap it in. No need to shock load anything, including my wrist and shoulder.