My 650A (650B) Rando-Commuter Build and Updates Thread.
#126
working on my sandal tan
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#127
tantum vehi
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1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
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1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
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1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
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#128
working on my sandal tan
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I'm cleansing and purifying my bike for a new riding season. More details soon.
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#134
working on my sandal tan
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Yep, I reserve that right!
It's one thing when a clueless newbie posts to a dormant thread when they should have started a new one (even more forehead-slapping when they decide to pick a fight with members who are long gone.) But the C&V forum is host to a somewhat unique phenomenon: the already-spectacular thread that is enriched when a member joins and adds something really neat. And some stories just take years to unfold!
Anyways, here's another teaser pic while I enjoy some more glue fumes:
It's one thing when a clueless newbie posts to a dormant thread when they should have started a new one (even more forehead-slapping when they decide to pick a fight with members who are long gone.) But the C&V forum is host to a somewhat unique phenomenon: the already-spectacular thread that is enriched when a member joins and adds something really neat. And some stories just take years to unfold!
Anyways, here's another teaser pic while I enjoy some more glue fumes:
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I salute you for renewing your own thread. It’s definitely a pet peeve for me when someone starts multiple threads around a single bike, pushing far more interesting threads deep past page 1.
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People have been anxiously waiting for years, years, for ThermionicScott to update his own thread. Now he finally does and all we see is a bunch of carping. Geez BF is really falling on hard times.
Personally, I'm hoping that the bike that finally appears is a different bike than appeared in post 1. That would make this a real click bait thread,
Personally, I'm hoping that the bike that finally appears is a different bike than appeared in post 1. That would make this a real click bait thread,
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-Kurt
P.S.: I don't want to give you PTSD by bringing this up, but have you considered letting someone put a few MIG tack welds on the gap in the the dropout eyelet? MIG is extremely localized, so it shouldn't muss up the paint like a torch. It would be really simple to tap back out to M6 and touchup, thus giving you an intact eyelet to work with again
#138
working on my sandal tan
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P.S.: I don't want to give you PTSD by bringing this up, but have you considered letting someone put a few MIG tack welds on the gap in the the dropout eyelet? MIG is extremely localized, so it shouldn't muss up the paint like a torch. It would be really simple to tap back out to M6 and touchup, thus giving you an intact eyelet to work with again
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#139
working on my sandal tan
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Funny you say that, since only a few parts from my initial build remain at this point -- the "diamond" part of the frame, rear brake caliper, and the rear fender. This is my Ship of Theseus!
#140
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There's a scene in the movie Brazil where someone is throwing a big party for herself after replacing every body part, one by one.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#142
working on my sandal tan
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No spoilers, please! I know it's been out a while, but I just haven't managed to see it yet.
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--- yes, I would have to relocate the canti-posts: Zen and the Art of Bicycle Building: braze-on distances index
-- Schwinn's CrissCross is built for 700c wheels. It's still in the early - early - maybe - man, I sure would like to try this - stages. The frameset (with brakes & headset & BB) was $40. Canti bosses are about $2 a piece. I've done some really simple stuff - rack bosses and bottle cage bosses. This would require some real patience to fixture up.
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#146
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- right! No hijacking vintage threads! .... maybe hijack this one: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...iss-cross.html
--- yes, I would have to relocate the canti-posts: Zen and the Art of Bicycle Building: braze-on distances index
-- Schwinn's CrissCross is built for 700c wheels. It's still in the early - early - maybe - man, I sure would like to try this - stages. The frameset (with brakes & headset & BB) was $40. Canti bosses are about $2 a piece. I've done some really simple stuff - rack bosses and bottle cage bosses. This would require some real patience to fixture up.
--- yes, I would have to relocate the canti-posts: Zen and the Art of Bicycle Building: braze-on distances index
-- Schwinn's CrissCross is built for 700c wheels. It's still in the early - early - maybe - man, I sure would like to try this - stages. The frameset (with brakes & headset & BB) was $40. Canti bosses are about $2 a piece. I've done some really simple stuff - rack bosses and bottle cage bosses. This would require some real patience to fixture up.
I’ve never used the center pull brakes like the OP has.
#147
working on my sandal tan
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- right! No hijacking vintage threads! .... maybe hijack this one: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...iss-cross.html
--- yes, I would have to relocate the canti-posts: Zen and the Art of Bicycle Building: braze-on distances index
-- Schwinn's CrissCross is built for 700c wheels. It's still in the early - early - maybe - man, I sure would like to try this - stages. The frameset (with brakes & headset & BB) was $40. Canti bosses are about $2 a piece. I've done some really simple stuff - rack bosses and bottle cage bosses. This would require some real patience to fixture up.
--- yes, I would have to relocate the canti-posts: Zen and the Art of Bicycle Building: braze-on distances index
-- Schwinn's CrissCross is built for 700c wheels. It's still in the early - early - maybe - man, I sure would like to try this - stages. The frameset (with brakes & headset & BB) was $40. Canti bosses are about $2 a piece. I've done some really simple stuff - rack bosses and bottle cage bosses. This would require some real patience to fixture up.
I’ve never used the center pull brakes like the OP has.
Anyways, brazing on brake posts is totally germane to this thread, as it's part of my upgrade! gugie brazed centerpull mounts onto my fork as a part of upgrading to a custom rack. I highly recommend his work if you decide not to do it yourself.
More pictures and discussion here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...onicscott.html
After a year and a half in the making, I'm looking forward to finally being able to share some ride results. RAGBRAI is in two weeks, so the clock is ticking!
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RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 07-08-21 at 11:41 AM.
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#148
working on my sandal tan
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BTW, I'm trying out southpawboston 's technique of using a rubbery adhesive (Automotive Goop) to attach the wires to the fender, tacking down small sections at a time for more control. Because this bike doesn't have generous clearance in some places, I've been working really hard to get the wires to lay as flat as possible inside the fender, hence the clamping with whatever is handy:
I'm mostly concerned with where the wires enter and exit the fenders, so after drilling the holes, I gently angled them with a bolt so the wires would have a shallower bend at those points:
If that's not enough to keep the wires from rubbing on the tire, I'll have to think of something else...
I'm mostly concerned with where the wires enter and exit the fenders, so after drilling the holes, I gently angled them with a bolt so the wires would have a shallower bend at those points:
If that's not enough to keep the wires from rubbing on the tire, I'll have to think of something else...
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RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 07-08-21 at 12:49 PM.
#149
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I'm mostly concerned with where the wires enter and exit the fenders, so after drilling the holes, I gently angled them with a bolt so the wires would have a shallower bend at those points:
If that's not enough to keep the wires from rubbing on the tire, I'll have to think of something else...
#150
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One exception is the seatpost, where I didn't want to bore a really large hole and still not be able to have a grommet reach to the other side of the hole. So I did everything I could think of to file and smooth any sharp corners on the inside. I'll wrap the wire with a layer of electrical tape for good luck. Sorry about the junk in the background of this shot!
Here's one thing I did to smooth the inner edges of that hole, after using a rat-tail file. I cut thin strips of Micromesh cloth-backed sanding paper, attached a wire to one end, and then used that to fish it through the hole so that I could carefully pull it back and forth to smooth the hole in the direction that the wire will pass:
And that grommet I showed at the downtube lug hole in post #134 had to have the "lip"/"flange" nibbled off on one side so that I could press it in at all. My thinking is that even if it doesn't reach all the way to the other side of the hole, it will hold the wire away from the edges (which I also tried to file and sand smooth however I could.) Here's what that grommet looks like out of the bike. I'll use some kind of glue to hold it in place once everything is finalized:
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RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 07-08-21 at 02:05 PM.