PX10 - Help
#1
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PX10 - Help
Hi there,
I need some help with my Peugeot PX10. I got this bike in France a few months back and when I picked it up the guy had a set of Campagnolo Nuevo Record derailleurs which I got for a decent price.
I was trying to fit the rear derailleur but then realised it doesn’t fit on the frame.
Any advice on how to make this work? I was quite keen to install these and I've been reading about what is the best solution without damaging the frame. I saw some people suggesting mounting a Wolftooth adapter or a hanger compatible with Campagnolo. Would this work? I saw rootboy had a solution for it here but sadly all the pictures are down, anyone tried this?
Another help I would like is for the stem and bars. I know the original stem is a must replace but I'm trying to find out what shall I replace it with for the year of my bike which I believe is 1969. Any other suggestions?
Some pictures of the bike in this post
Thank you very much.
I need some help with my Peugeot PX10. I got this bike in France a few months back and when I picked it up the guy had a set of Campagnolo Nuevo Record derailleurs which I got for a decent price.
I was trying to fit the rear derailleur but then realised it doesn’t fit on the frame.
Any advice on how to make this work? I was quite keen to install these and I've been reading about what is the best solution without damaging the frame. I saw some people suggesting mounting a Wolftooth adapter or a hanger compatible with Campagnolo. Would this work? I saw rootboy had a solution for it here but sadly all the pictures are down, anyone tried this?
Another help I would like is for the stem and bars. I know the original stem is a must replace but I'm trying to find out what shall I replace it with for the year of my bike which I believe is 1969. Any other suggestions?
Some pictures of the bike in this post
Thank you very much.
#2
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I don't think the bars & stem are a 'must' replace (unless of course they simply don't fit you...)- examine them carefully for cracks (and in the case of the bars, sagging), especially the top of the slot in the stem where the binding slug goes. If the slot is squared off, round it with a file/dremel/drill. If there are not signs of cracks or weakness, if it were me, I'd use it (and in fact I am, on my '72 PX-10), and just pull the stem and check it every now and then. $.02....
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On my '69 PX-10, I had very good luck for thousands of kilometers with the original Simplex Criterium rear derailleur shifting a 5 speed freewheel. I suggest that you stick with Simplex (maybe upgrade to an all alloy model). I hope to pick up a very weathered PA10E today and if the Criterium Derailleurs are too far gone, they will be replaced with Simplex.
A bolt on Campy hanger will move the derailleur outboard and while it will work, it will look bad.
Wrt stem and bars, they are a safety issue and I rode with a sanded down ITM combo.
A bolt on Campy hanger will move the derailleur outboard and while it will work, it will look bad.
Wrt stem and bars, they are a safety issue and I rode with a sanded down ITM combo.
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the machine's Juy forged gear hanger is unthreaded
run a 10.0mm X 1.0 tap through it
then grind/file a stop in the perimeter at the seven o'clock position and "Robert will be thine uncle"
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the machine's Juy forged gear hanger is unthreaded
run a 10.0mm X 1.0 tap through it
then grind/file a stop in the perimeter at the seven o'clock position and "Robert will be thine uncle"
-----
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#5
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When I went to hang a SunTour Cyclone II on my 1980 PKN-10, I happily noted that Simplex had switched to a threaded setup that can accommodate a variety of rear derailleurs. When I gave the bike to my son, I put the Simplex back on and kept the Cyclone. He got the wider gearing he wanted, and I put the Cyclone on my UO-8. (Works fine on a 13-26 6-speed as long as you go half-step up front.)
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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The absolute best advice given so far is stick with the Simplex rear derailleur. Believe it or not, they do work very well. The worst kind of advice is altering the frame of a highly desirable vintage road bike by hacking, drilling or filing. Why ruin something that is becoming increasingly valuable and hard to find? Just my opinion but if my opinion saves just one frame from the hacksaw, then I will feel that I have done us all a favor
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I have an adapter that rootboy (Scott) made for me. I have plans to put it on a Mercier 300 if the Simplex Criterium ever gives up.
Scott passed away last year, unfortunately. Talented guy, and that’s an understatement.
Scott passed away last year, unfortunately. Talented guy, and that’s an understatement.
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pictures please
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I had to dig a bit thru old conversations with Scott, to get reacquainted with the parts he sent me.
Here's what he wrote.
"I made this first one before I purchased the NOS Simplex stop plates. I made my first stop plate out of nickel silver as I didn't have the correct thickness in steel, which would have rusted anyway. The center hole in the stainless steel Simplex plates has two flats on it, to register on the back of the derailleur body. I have filed two flats on the "boss" of this bolt. The flats and hole are a tad larger than the flats/hole in the Simplex plate, but it works.
OK. I have to grind a small, wedged shaped notch in the edge of these Simplex plates, which registers on the modified boss on the back of the Nuovo Record top pivot body. Now, in order to make you a stop plate, I'll need to remove the NR derailleur off my Gitane, in order to fit it and make sure it stops the derailleur at the proper angle. AND THEN, you will have to alter the boss on the back of your NR derailleur to fit! As you can see in that tutorial I did, I used a 1/4 fine grinding stone in my Dremel to modify my derailleur. I used a rounded stone so the stop boss on the back of the derailleur would barely clear the outside diameter of the dropout hanger. If you have a Dremel, or small grinder, I could include one of those tiny grinding stones. I think it is 1/8 shank. Maybe smaller. The notch in the stop plate registers on the top, flat side of the derailleur stop boss, which I leave un-altered, as I remember."
So what I'm recalling from our conversation is the plate is a purchased item, and he machined the stud.
Here's what he wrote.
"I made this first one before I purchased the NOS Simplex stop plates. I made my first stop plate out of nickel silver as I didn't have the correct thickness in steel, which would have rusted anyway. The center hole in the stainless steel Simplex plates has two flats on it, to register on the back of the derailleur body. I have filed two flats on the "boss" of this bolt. The flats and hole are a tad larger than the flats/hole in the Simplex plate, but it works.
OK. I have to grind a small, wedged shaped notch in the edge of these Simplex plates, which registers on the modified boss on the back of the Nuovo Record top pivot body. Now, in order to make you a stop plate, I'll need to remove the NR derailleur off my Gitane, in order to fit it and make sure it stops the derailleur at the proper angle. AND THEN, you will have to alter the boss on the back of your NR derailleur to fit! As you can see in that tutorial I did, I used a 1/4 fine grinding stone in my Dremel to modify my derailleur. I used a rounded stone so the stop boss on the back of the derailleur would barely clear the outside diameter of the dropout hanger. If you have a Dremel, or small grinder, I could include one of those tiny grinding stones. I think it is 1/8 shank. Maybe smaller. The notch in the stop plate registers on the top, flat side of the derailleur stop boss, which I leave un-altered, as I remember."
So what I'm recalling from our conversation is the plate is a purchased item, and he machined the stud.
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#12
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Thanks a lot for all the replies super helpful. I might follow the advice and stick with the Simplex. Is a harder one to decide as for that I need to get a new front derailleur to match as well as shift levers and the ones that came with the bike were broken.
Thanks a lot for these images satbuilder! Very sad news about Scott, he seems to have an incredible skill! His posts are amazing. Unfortunately, I don't have the same skill but I might try it one of these days.
Thanks a lot for these images satbuilder! Very sad news about Scott, he seems to have an incredible skill! His posts are amazing. Unfortunately, I don't have the same skill but I might try it one of these days.
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Thanks a lot for all the replies super helpful. I might follow the advice and stick with the Simplex. Is a harder one to decide as for that I need to get a new front derailleur to match as well as shift levers and the ones that came with the bike were broken.
Thanks a lot for these images satbuilder! Very sad news about Scott, he seems to have an incredible skill! His posts are amazing. Unfortunately, I don't have the same skill but I might try it one of these days.
Thanks a lot for these images satbuilder! Very sad news about Scott, he seems to have an incredible skill! His posts are amazing. Unfortunately, I don't have the same skill but I might try it one of these days.
My PX's finish looked in similar shape to yours and I went through the same paint/don't paint/patina etc debate... In the end I carefully sanded the rusty spots and sealed them with clear nail-polish, polished up everything and gave it a good waxing. I think it looks great and I'm glad I didn't go for a repaint. It's tough to know exactly where the line of 'acceptable' patina is, and it'll be different from one C&V enthusiast to the next! The Valgan I picked up had definitely crossed the line for me so got repainted.
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^^^Simplex
^^^Crane
The short cage versions are cheaper to purchase, and have at least as much capacity as the standard Simplex. They are just more durable. The built in stop on the hanger bolt is of a similar design. I usually end up using a Suntour mechanism on the front, because they are just easier to find in the bins over at the bike co-op here. There are a lot of downtube and bar end shifters that will work. The Suntour ratcheting ones are very popular as a modification.
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Last edited by 3alarmer; 05-29-22 at 09:01 AM.