Show us your gravel/cross bike...
#4451
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SoCal
Posts: 91
Bikes: 1972 Raleigh Professional, 1980 Raleigh Gran Sport (frame only), 1989 Diamondback Apex, 1997 LeMond Zurich, 2018 Specialized Diverge running R8020 Ultegra.
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My Diverge now shod with 650b and Specialized Pathfinder Pro tubeless in 47c. The ride on the trails is greatly improved!

Last edited by RideMyLeMond; 10-08-19 at 09:25 AM.
#4452
Senior Member

Mec Provincial Road 222.
#4453
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NWNJ
Posts: 3,704
Bikes: Road bike is a Carbon Bianchi C2C & Grandis (1980's), Gary Fisher Mt Bike, Trek Tandem & Mongoose SS MTB circa 1992.
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My grinder

Finished build

First ride on bike
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#4455
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Westborough, Massachusetts
Posts: 16
Bikes: Breezer Venturi, Surly Cross-Check, Nashbar Steel 'Cross, Ribble Endurance AL
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Just built up a 56cm Surly Cross Check frame with a used set of Shimano 105s (50/34 to 11-32), Tektro brakes, and Alexrims CX28 wheels with 32mm Kenda touring tires. As I'm kind of a heavyweight myself (at 270 lbs), the weight of the frame is no issue at all. I highly recommend this setup for other big boys 


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#4457
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
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Bikes: too many of all kinds
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I agree, it is cool, but I'll tell ya from experience - downtube shifters and knobby tires don't always play together well. You had better have your reach dialed in when you reach down to change gears!

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#4459
Senior Member
Sorry. First time uploading a picture here. Couldn’t figure out how to get text in the pic.
Picked it up on close out for 750, dumped the 2.1 slant sixes immediately. Hated those tires. Finally got to swap the deore drive and pro max brakes for 105 w FSA 46/30 mega exo and some trp spare stoppers. Tubeless resolutes!
Picked it up on close out for 750, dumped the 2.1 slant sixes immediately. Hated those tires. Finally got to swap the deore drive and pro max brakes for 105 w FSA 46/30 mega exo and some trp spare stoppers. Tubeless resolutes!
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#4461
Member


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#4463
Banned

#4464
Member
#4465
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,173
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
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And it renders braking from the drops nearly useless.
It also isnt how this style was originally intended to be used.
But style and use changes with time and though the flared drops were originally intended to be basically flat for significant riding time in that position, even Salsa apparently claims an absurd angle is how they should be used.
People like em that way, I guess.
Good thing about bars is that each of us can set them how we want for how we ride.
My flared bars are level, but on one bar design i used to use, making the drops level then cants the brake lever in and slightly down. Many wouldnt like that.
My current Cowchipper bars are a great blend of level drops and flare without placing the levers in a wonky position too.
Soma Gator and Salsa Woodchipper bars seem like a really specific application bars to me, due to the severed bend at the hooks. Many of these flare bars seem like very specific application bars, actually.


These are pics I stole off the internet. Left(back) is Soma Gator, middle is Salsa Woodchipper, and front(right) is Sala Cowchipper.
You can see the extreme anger at the hooks on the Gator and Woodchipper. This hard angle requires levers to either mount pointing down and in if the drops are level, or it requires the drops to be pointed down at a significant angle if the levers are going to be mounted relatively level.
Just mentioning all this since it comes up on a semi-regular basis. One person mounts their bars with the drops at a useless angle, another person aggressively points this out, and disagreement ensues.
Both are right in this instance. Neither are wrong in this instance. And neither are right too. It's all just perspective.
Bars are set up how we use them, even if that's different from the original intended design.
#4466
Banned
I still don't get why someone would want to ride with that kind of setup.
#4467
Member
You can keep not getting it and mind your own business, you would have been better off simply asking instead of being so aggressive. I am done with trying to explain it to you.
#4468
Member
they are tilted way up.
And it renders braking from the drops nearly useless.
It also isnt how this style was originally intended to be used.
But style and use changes with time and though the flared drops were originally intended to be basically flat for significant riding time in that position, even salsa apparently claims an absurd angle is how they should be used.
People like em that way, i guess.
Good thing about bars is that each of us can set them how we want for how we ride.
My flared bars are level, but on one bar design i used to use, making the drops level then cants the brake lever in and slightly down. Many wouldnt like that.
My current cowchipper bars are a great blend of level drops and flare without placing the levers in a wonky position too.
Soma gator and salsa woodchipper bars seem like a really specific application bars to me, due to the severed bend at the hooks. Many of these flare bars seem like very specific application bars, actually.


these are pics i stole off the internet. Left(back) is soma gator, middle is salsa woodchipper, and front(right) is sala cowchipper.
You can see the extreme anger at the hooks on the gator and woodchipper. This hard angle requires levers to either mount pointing down and in if the drops are level, or it requires the drops to be pointed down at a significant angle if the levers are going to be mounted relatively level.
Just mentioning all this since it comes up on a semi-regular basis. One person mounts their bars with the drops at a useless angle, another person aggressively points this out, and disagreement ensues.
Both are right in this instance. Neither are wrong in this instance. And neither are right too. It's all just perspective.
Bars are set up how we use them, even if that's different from the original intended design.
And it renders braking from the drops nearly useless.
It also isnt how this style was originally intended to be used.
But style and use changes with time and though the flared drops were originally intended to be basically flat for significant riding time in that position, even salsa apparently claims an absurd angle is how they should be used.
People like em that way, i guess.
Good thing about bars is that each of us can set them how we want for how we ride.
My flared bars are level, but on one bar design i used to use, making the drops level then cants the brake lever in and slightly down. Many wouldnt like that.
My current cowchipper bars are a great blend of level drops and flare without placing the levers in a wonky position too.
Soma gator and salsa woodchipper bars seem like a really specific application bars to me, due to the severed bend at the hooks. Many of these flare bars seem like very specific application bars, actually.


these are pics i stole off the internet. Left(back) is soma gator, middle is salsa woodchipper, and front(right) is sala cowchipper.
You can see the extreme anger at the hooks on the gator and woodchipper. This hard angle requires levers to either mount pointing down and in if the drops are level, or it requires the drops to be pointed down at a significant angle if the levers are going to be mounted relatively level.
Just mentioning all this since it comes up on a semi-regular basis. One person mounts their bars with the drops at a useless angle, another person aggressively points this out, and disagreement ensues.
Both are right in this instance. Neither are wrong in this instance. And neither are right too. It's all just perspective.
Bars are set up how we use them, even if that's different from the original intended design.
#4469
Banned
Your photo prompted me to see what Salsa says about their bars and it makes your photos even more perplexing. "The brake/shifter position should be canted downward slightly, resulting in a 20–25° downward angle of the drops."
Additional info: https://salsacycles.com/culture/my_woodchipper_set_up
How do you brake when in the drops?
Last edited by Hermes; 10-28-19 at 08:53 AM. Reason: Cleanup
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#4471
Member
1991 Trek 520 Touring frame (Made in Waterloo, USA lugged cro-mo frame), converted to a Gravel Grinder.
The bike is relatively quick for a touring frame and handles more like a CX bike with the 429mm chainstay, but can still handle a 42C tire without finders, 40C with fenders.
All new parts:
-Velocity Dyad / Shimano 105 hubs, custom wheelset
-700x40 Maxxis Rambler DC/EXO TR Gravel
-Rival 1 crankset 42T, 1X11
-Apex 1 rear derailleur, shifter/mechanical levers
-Paul Motolite Brakes (yes they work with the Apex levers)
-Thomson Elite Layback Seat post
-Brooks B17 Imperial
-Salsa Guide Stem & 46cm Woodchipper bars
-Speedplay Drillium flats pedals

The bike is relatively quick for a touring frame and handles more like a CX bike with the 429mm chainstay, but can still handle a 42C tire without finders, 40C with fenders.
All new parts:
-Velocity Dyad / Shimano 105 hubs, custom wheelset
-700x40 Maxxis Rambler DC/EXO TR Gravel
-Rival 1 crankset 42T, 1X11
-Apex 1 rear derailleur, shifter/mechanical levers
-Paul Motolite Brakes (yes they work with the Apex levers)
-Thomson Elite Layback Seat post
-Brooks B17 Imperial
-Salsa Guide Stem & 46cm Woodchipper bars
-Speedplay Drillium flats pedals


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#4472
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
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MOD NOTE TO ALL: Let's lighten up on the personal jabs, Thanks
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Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
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#4473
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,173
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
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Sure, I guess.
My post contained some historical context and modern application to explain how both you and the other poster could both be 'right', but at the same time- I really dont disagree that it looks like your drops are useless for braking, at least for me they would be useless. I would not find the position comfortable due to needing to be lower than I could otherwise be, and snaking my arms under the tops to then cock my wrists upwards.
The drops are pointed to the ground in front of the crank- its pretty severe. If you like it, then more power. It seems though that many set flared bars up with a severe drop angle like this because they are used to riding the hoods and arent used to the bar's design as it was originally meant to have the drops quite level for long periods of riding in the drops. The bars were also then set up higher than usual to account for using the drops so much. As mentioned- the varied bends of bars seems to be great for specific situations, but it appears that many users grab a flare bar and figure they are all the same or something.
This is all just an fyi in case you find yourself seriously uncomfortable 40mi from home because your back and wrists ache from the contorting to use the brakes in the drops(or not being able to use the drops at all). Rotating the bars clockwise may bring you more usable hand positions. Or if you are more flexible than I(which is about everyone), the setup you have may be perfect.
My post contained some historical context and modern application to explain how both you and the other poster could both be 'right', but at the same time- I really dont disagree that it looks like your drops are useless for braking, at least for me they would be useless. I would not find the position comfortable due to needing to be lower than I could otherwise be, and snaking my arms under the tops to then cock my wrists upwards.
The drops are pointed to the ground in front of the crank- its pretty severe. If you like it, then more power. It seems though that many set flared bars up with a severe drop angle like this because they are used to riding the hoods and arent used to the bar's design as it was originally meant to have the drops quite level for long periods of riding in the drops. The bars were also then set up higher than usual to account for using the drops so much. As mentioned- the varied bends of bars seems to be great for specific situations, but it appears that many users grab a flare bar and figure they are all the same or something.
This is all just an fyi in case you find yourself seriously uncomfortable 40mi from home because your back and wrists ache from the contorting to use the brakes in the drops(or not being able to use the drops at all). Rotating the bars clockwise may bring you more usable hand positions. Or if you are more flexible than I(which is about everyone), the setup you have may be perfect.
#4474
Member
Sure, I guess.
My post contained some historical context and modern application to explain how both you and the other poster could both be 'right', but at the same time- I really dont disagree that it looks like your drops are useless for braking, at least for me they would be useless. I would not find the position comfortable due to needing to be lower than I could otherwise be, and snaking my arms under the tops to then cock my wrists upwards.
The drops are pointed to the ground in front of the crank- its pretty severe. If you like it, then more power. It seems though that many set flared bars up with a severe drop angle like this because they are used to riding the hoods and arent used to the bar's design as it was originally meant to have the drops quite level for long periods of riding in the drops. The bars were also then set up higher than usual to account for using the drops so much. As mentioned- the varied bends of bars seems to be great for specific situations, but it appears that many users grab a flare bar and figure they are all the same or something.
This is all just an fyi in case you find yourself seriously uncomfortable 40mi from home because your back and wrists ache from the contorting to use the brakes in the drops(or not being able to use the drops at all). Rotating the bars clockwise may bring you more usable hand positions. Or if you are more flexible than I(which is about everyone), the setup you have may be perfect.
My post contained some historical context and modern application to explain how both you and the other poster could both be 'right', but at the same time- I really dont disagree that it looks like your drops are useless for braking, at least for me they would be useless. I would not find the position comfortable due to needing to be lower than I could otherwise be, and snaking my arms under the tops to then cock my wrists upwards.
The drops are pointed to the ground in front of the crank- its pretty severe. If you like it, then more power. It seems though that many set flared bars up with a severe drop angle like this because they are used to riding the hoods and arent used to the bar's design as it was originally meant to have the drops quite level for long periods of riding in the drops. The bars were also then set up higher than usual to account for using the drops so much. As mentioned- the varied bends of bars seems to be great for specific situations, but it appears that many users grab a flare bar and figure they are all the same or something.
This is all just an fyi in case you find yourself seriously uncomfortable 40mi from home because your back and wrists ache from the contorting to use the brakes in the drops(or not being able to use the drops at all). Rotating the bars clockwise may bring you more usable hand positions. Or if you are more flexible than I(which is about everyone), the setup you have may be perfect.
#4475
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,173
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
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Thanks for being reasonable! Makes it easier to respond to you. Works well for me as I can brake in the drops and from the hoods with ease. I have long arms and big hands which may help. I originally had the drops set level and didn't like the feel, I need to check where they are now as that's an older picture while I was still getting everything setup. My guess is they are now set somewhere between what the pictures show and level, either way they are comfortable from my perspective.
The early 90s 520 and 720 models really are versatile frames.

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