How To Photograph A Bike
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How To Photograph A Bike
This subject has come up plenty of times in plenty of threads, but I guess we don't had an "official" thread.
We've all heard "drive side out" and "line up your valve stems", but what else? What are the rules, really?
Personally, I subscribe to drive side out and lining up my valve stems (one illustrates the drivetrain components better and the other caters to my OCD), but that's about it.
Share your opinions on what constitutes a well-planned photograph of a bike.
I'll get us started with an example of what I believe is a good photo of one of my bikes. Feel free to make comments on any/all contributions - just be civil and constructive in your criticism
Have at it!

The one thing I notice today about the above photo is that I should've edited it to straighten and then crop - I hate the way horizontal is off!
DD
We've all heard "drive side out" and "line up your valve stems", but what else? What are the rules, really?
Personally, I subscribe to drive side out and lining up my valve stems (one illustrates the drivetrain components better and the other caters to my OCD), but that's about it.
Share your opinions on what constitutes a well-planned photograph of a bike.
I'll get us started with an example of what I believe is a good photo of one of my bikes. Feel free to make comments on any/all contributions - just be civil and constructive in your criticism

Have at it!

The one thing I notice today about the above photo is that I should've edited it to straighten and then crop - I hate the way horizontal is off!
DD
Last edited by Drillium Dude; 05-25-16 at 12:02 PM.
#2
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White garage doo...I mean yeah, the horizontal is off. That's it.
I'd recommend a contrasting background. Another nifty trick is to set the bike a fair distance away and get a really shallow depth of field (F1.4-1.8) with the background (like a park or public space) even further away. You'll get a very sharp photo of the bike imposed on a blurred natural background which can be quite striking.
You can send me your orange Colnago for that juicy piece of advice. No need to thank me.
I'd recommend a contrasting background. Another nifty trick is to set the bike a fair distance away and get a really shallow depth of field (F1.4-1.8) with the background (like a park or public space) even further away. You'll get a very sharp photo of the bike imposed on a blurred natural background which can be quite striking.
You can send me your orange Colnago for that juicy piece of advice. No need to thank me.
Last edited by Narhay; 05-25-16 at 11:45 AM.
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Another nifty trick is to set the bike a fair distance away and get a really shallow depth of field (F1.4-1.8) with the background (like a park or public space) even further away. You'll get a very sharp photo of the bike imposed on a blurred natural background which can be quite striking.
I have a Sony Cybershot (DSC-W530) and a Canon ELPH (115 LS).
If you can help me out here, the Colnago will be boxed up and ready to ship tomorrow morning

DD
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Big ring, small cog. Also, dunno if it's "correct," but I always align the cranks with the chainstays, so the drive side crank is a continuation of the chainstay's line. Aesthetically pleasing to me.
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I spend most of my time here in C&V, but the few times I have wondered into the Road threads - specifically the "Hot r Not" over there - WOW... those guys have RULES..
I agree with the neutral background - garage door for example. I try to do it when the sun is out, but no sunlight in the shot because shadows disturb the shot.
As for the bike:
I agree with the neutral background - garage door for example. I try to do it when the sun is out, but no sunlight in the shot because shadows disturb the shot.
As for the bike:
I like the idea of having it in the big ring up from and small in back, but if it is not it does not disrupt the picture for me.
I like the idea of the cranks set-up somehow on purpose - like horizontal or in line with the seat (or down) tube.
I agree 100% with the OCD of the valve stems inline with the logo on the tires - but where they are in the rotation does not bother me so much..
Can I get off topic (but kinda still on topic) for a second and address a couple rules I use in my builds? These things go a long way for me in what I think makes a good looking bike:I like the idea of the cranks set-up somehow on purpose - like horizontal or in line with the seat (or down) tube.
I agree 100% with the OCD of the valve stems inline with the logo on the tires - but where they are in the rotation does not bother me so much..
The crankset/seatpost/stem should be the same color.
The saddle and bar tape should be the same color - unless it ties in some other way into the bike to make it look like it belongs there.
There should not be more than 3 colors (4 at the most) on the bike or it starts to look too busy.
Fun thread Drillium Dude!
The saddle and bar tape should be the same color - unless it ties in some other way into the bike to make it look like it belongs there.
There should not be more than 3 colors (4 at the most) on the bike or it starts to look too busy.
Last edited by ratfink76; 05-25-16 at 12:21 PM. Reason: added indents
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The face of your camera lens should be vertical and should be at the same height as the bike.
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Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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My bike pictures are among the worst to be posted to BF, but I have thoughts/opinions anyway. 
- I like seeing the valve stems aligned and at 12 or 6 o'clock. If you're in a position to be able to read the tire labels, I like to orient the tires so that the text is right-side-up.
- I like seeing the gear set for something that's representative of one's riding, like one just pulled to a stop and snapped a pic. Oftentimes, that's the big ring and somewhere in the middle of the cassette. But, since working up to a 42T inner ring, and seeing how useful it is for general riding, pics taken in the small ring and middle of the cassette make sense to me, too. However, seeing bikes in small-small still irks me -- especially if the bike has a triple!

- I like seeing the valve stems aligned and at 12 or 6 o'clock. If you're in a position to be able to read the tire labels, I like to orient the tires so that the text is right-side-up.
- I like seeing the gear set for something that's representative of one's riding, like one just pulled to a stop and snapped a pic. Oftentimes, that's the big ring and somewhere in the middle of the cassette. But, since working up to a 42T inner ring, and seeing how useful it is for general riding, pics taken in the small ring and middle of the cassette make sense to me, too. However, seeing bikes in small-small still irks me -- especially if the bike has a triple!

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For me it's;
-vertical crank to give it separation and not blend
-pic at height of bike for a straight side shot. Which means kneeling or sitting on a chair to line up.
-fill the frame so more details can be seen and less background since this may be the only pic shown
-decals on wheels down which usually means stems up, that way if any angle is shown you see decals to ID wheel
-make sure quick releases are positioned correctly
-I sometimes try to face pedal up when against a wall or something so I can see how it looks as if I were riding
-do not have anything in the background like an outlet
-vertical crank to give it separation and not blend
-pic at height of bike for a straight side shot. Which means kneeling or sitting on a chair to line up.
-fill the frame so more details can be seen and less background since this may be the only pic shown
-decals on wheels down which usually means stems up, that way if any angle is shown you see decals to ID wheel
-make sure quick releases are positioned correctly
-I sometimes try to face pedal up when against a wall or something so I can see how it looks as if I were riding
-do not have anything in the background like an outlet


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I've been without a decent camera for nearly a year and have been just using whatever spec is on the cheap phone. Though I do appreciate others artsy shots but not my thing or qualified to judge. Valve stem and crank arm positions..... okay now...........
My pics are pretty bad and not afraid to admit. I suppose my only criteria is what is proper for a sale or auction posting.
Rather I'd like to see more of the action shots, C&V related and tips how its done, settings and so forth.
My pics are pretty bad and not afraid to admit. I suppose my only criteria is what is proper for a sale or auction posting.
Rather I'd like to see more of the action shots, C&V related and tips how its done, settings and so forth.
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Me, too. Especially the depth-of-field settings. I love shots like this with the bike sharp and the background blurry:

DD

DD
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I think bikes look better with the chain on the big ring, but I don't see any reason to put it on the small cog. That doesn't look any better, and who are we kidding here? I use that combination to rule out chainring/cog wear when diagnosing mechanical problems.

I like to be able to see the stem shifters, and I usually choose the rear gear based on where it puts the shifter if the bike has stem shifters.
Aligning the valve stems is a nice touch, but I usually forget to do it.
The background shouldn't be too busy. A contrasting color is helpful, which I think usually makes garage doors tolerable. In the OP example the garage door doesn't contrast enough and the hardware creates too much noise.
I usually use a pedal against a curb to prop up the bike (when it isn't leaning against a garage door) so that limits my choice of crank orientation to something that doesn't look good. All else being equal, I like the cranks horizontal. Ideally it should be impossible to tell what is keeping the bike upright.
I don't care for the straight on angle. Especially with camera phone pictures it distorts the angles of the bike too much. For instance, in Bikerider007's picture in post 9 the seatstays and handlebars have the illusion of being turned away from the viewer. I often take pictures from a front angle in an effort to avoid this.
Offering a few examples of my own for critique...

I think the "front angle" worked pretty well here. I'm looking down on the bike quite a bit. That's obvious not good, but I don't think it's awful. The alignment of the sidewalk and the top tube is less than ideal, but it's better than having them misaligned. The location of the sidewalk in this picture really exaggerates my already ridiculous stem height. The rear gear has the derailleur stretched out too much, and the rear wheel details are impossible to make out. The lighting was perfect to bring out the color of the frame, which is surprisingly difficult with this bike. I'd give this picture a C+.

The "front angle" didn't work quite as well here. The handlebars and rear wheel appear to be facing different directions. The camera is lower to the ground, which I think looks a bit better. The sidewalk disappears in the center of the main triangle with some help from the rose bushes but is still in line with the top tube, so I think that's spot on. I like the way the roses work with the red in the bike. I wish more had been in bloom. The leaves around the saddle are a disaster, giving the illusion that the saddle is curled. The rear gear selection was even worse here. The overall picture is too dark, but I don't think I could fix that without washing out the color of the frame. I think this one is a low B.

A straight-on shot...the parallax distortion is pretty bad here and made worse by the way the stem flows into the handlebar. The handlebars get lost in the dark area of the background foliage. The background in general just has too much going on. This picture is fairly bad, D-.
As a final note, I think a complementary set of detail pictures really enhances any bike photography.
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For me it depends on why I'm taking the image. If I'm doing it to be artistic I'll spend more time lining things up. I like the parts on the bike to 'flow' in a smooth line so the eye can move in a smooth motion. For example I like to have the driveside crankarm in the same plane as the chainstay like in these images.
Bianchi Singlespeed by Miele Man, on Flickr
MIELE Uno Repainted #1 by Miele Man, on Flickr
Miele Columbus SL Frame by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3433 by Miele Man, on Flickr
Another thing that I think adds to the 'flow' in an image is if the dropbar points towards the bottom of the rear triangle somewhere like in the last image above of the MTB MIELE.
I don't usually bother with depth of field because I'm usually just wanting an image of the bike to share. However my Canon camera does have settings that would allow me to use APERTURE PRIORITY if I wanted to blur either the foreground or the background or in special cases both.
Cheers




Another thing that I think adds to the 'flow' in an image is if the dropbar points towards the bottom of the rear triangle somewhere like in the last image above of the MTB MIELE.
I don't usually bother with depth of field because I'm usually just wanting an image of the bike to share. However my Canon camera does have settings that would allow me to use APERTURE PRIORITY if I wanted to blur either the foreground or the background or in special cases both.
Cheers
Last edited by Miele Man; 05-25-16 at 02:11 PM. Reason: Spelling
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in photography, lighting is everything. then comes composition. with bikes, it's often best to put them in the shade of a nice environment (like a city park) on a sunny day.
here's a '74 centurion lemans using the above strategy

but it came out a little too dark. the problem is there is too much light behind the bike (too backlit). had i opened up the camera aperture to lighten the subject, the background would look washed out. i should have chosen a better time of day or a better area of the park.
another problem is i did not bend my knees to be on the same level as the bike. this can be difficult if a confused background doesn't allow freedom of movement.
here's a '74 centurion lemans using the above strategy

but it came out a little too dark. the problem is there is too much light behind the bike (too backlit). had i opened up the camera aperture to lighten the subject, the background would look washed out. i should have chosen a better time of day or a better area of the park.
another problem is i did not bend my knees to be on the same level as the bike. this can be difficult if a confused background doesn't allow freedom of movement.
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One of the best photos I've ever seen of a bike on this Forum was shot in the way you describe. I 100% agree - too bad I've not been able to figure out how to take such a pic with either of my cameras. Any trick to doing it with your garden-variety digital camera? I have a Sony Cybershot (DSC-W530) and a Canon ELPH (115 LS).
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I think subject matter and background is everything. A great picture also tells a story. For example, here's one taken by another forum member that I just love. Something about the lens flare off the saddle and the "stopping by a green meadow in late afternoon" setting gets me. You can imagine parking the bike and wandering off into the cool, tall grass.
Fields of Green by velocivixen, on Flickr

Last edited by w1gfh; 05-25-16 at 02:47 PM.
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i like this pic of this '87 schwinn letour

it's not perfect. but it's interesting. the background with the setting sun is great. the angle of the bike may not be perfect, but the angle creates a sense of action that mere horizontal lines don't provide. the lighting in the bike itself could be better as the red paint doesn't pop like it should.
simply put, a lot of thought should go into a good photograph. you've already spent dozens of hours rebuilding your bike. you should spend thirty minutes or more capturing it with a camera. but it's hard work, and can feel like a burden after you've finished your project.

it's not perfect. but it's interesting. the background with the setting sun is great. the angle of the bike may not be perfect, but the angle creates a sense of action that mere horizontal lines don't provide. the lighting in the bike itself could be better as the red paint doesn't pop like it should.
simply put, a lot of thought should go into a good photograph. you've already spent dozens of hours rebuilding your bike. you should spend thirty minutes or more capturing it with a camera. but it's hard work, and can feel like a burden after you've finished your project.
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That is a nice shot in #17 above. ^^^ Grass and bottom of the field give a darker neutral background. Angled sunlight highlight the saddle and chrome bits. Subject is a little off center to give a little more interest. Big thumbs up.

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'80 trek 414

pretty good result. not perfect, but i'll take it. the lighting on the bike itself could be better. all the 'rules' i follow, i generally got right:
- camera at the same level as the bike
- crank arms aligned in a certain way (i like the natural look of horizontal)
- valve stems aligned at either 6 or 12:00
- chain on the big ring
- front wheel straight
- interesting background, not a garage door.

pretty good result. not perfect, but i'll take it. the lighting on the bike itself could be better. all the 'rules' i follow, i generally got right:
- camera at the same level as the bike
- crank arms aligned in a certain way (i like the natural look of horizontal)
- valve stems aligned at either 6 or 12:00
- chain on the big ring
- front wheel straight
- interesting background, not a garage door.
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Just take the picture already!!! 

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'84 davidson challenge

pretty good results here. not perfect.
another rule i follow is to put an appropriate bottle in the cage or remove the cage for the photo.

pretty good results here. not perfect.
another rule i follow is to put an appropriate bottle in the cage or remove the cage for the photo.
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Last edited by rsandoval75002; 05-25-16 at 02:56 PM. Reason: more comment
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Here's three others I thought were imaginative in terms of setting and "story". Can I help it if I like the old 3 speeds as subject matter? (credit goes to rideblog.wordpress.com...who also used to be a member here)




