steppinthrax

I'm going from threaded to threadless. It's a hybrid Trek 7200. I use this bike mostly for city but I want to do a 40 - 50 mile trail this summer. I got my fork and I want to head my headset and stem. I hear from people that chris creek and FSA make good headsets. I prefer something that can stand up to outdoor storage.

2old

You may mean Chris King and you're correct great reputation (and relatively expensive). Headsets have a simple duty ,IMO, so even inexpensive ones (from Cane Creek, FSA, lots of others) work well, but if the bike is going to be outside, I would get one with sealed bearings and protect the area from precipitation. Stems, Kalloy makes good inexpensive ones, but so do many others.

steppinthrax

Thanks how about FSA Orbit XL II. I see this one, it has sealed cartridge bearings, which I heard are good for low maintenance. What is the angular contact 36, does this matter? It is for a 1-1/8 steer tube.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-Orbit-X...c8QvL&LH_BIN=1

2old

Should be excellent. I'm not an expert, but seems like the 36 degrees relates to angular contact of the bearings and is fine.

Metaluna

I believe the 36x36 refers to the angles of the bevels on the inner and outer parts (races) of the cartridge bearings. For the most part, since you're buying everything in a matched set, it doesn't matter. In the event you ever need to replace one of the bearings however, you'll want to make sure the new bearings match these angles, so that they sit properly in the shells, and mate properly with the fork crown race and compression ring. Usually the specs, or at least the part number, will be stamped somewhere on the bearings themselves, if they aren't pressed into the shells, so it's not a big deal.

Kapusta

Many good options, and that is a fine one.

Regarding stems... as long as they use a 4-bolt faceplate, there is not a whole lot of difference between high dollar and budget ones, in my experience. I’ve used really cheap ones (Dimension and Kalloy), mid range (like Race Face) and expensive (Thomson), and they all do the same thing.

Just make sure it matches the handlebar diameter you have.

fietsbob

Taiwan's Bike industries makes a lot of the brands that will be mentioned..









...

TimothyH

The Trek 7200 was only manufactured in 2010

https://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/...k/7200/details

It came with a threaded fork. The original headset spec was EC34/28.6 upper and EC34/30 lower. Reference https://blue.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

EC = external cup
34 = the inside diameter of the bike's head tube or the external diameter of the cup(s)
28.6 = upper bearing inside diameter in mm (1.125 inches)
30 = lower bearing inside diameter in mm (1.25 inches)

1.125" upper bearing and 1.25" inch lower bearing means the steerer on the original fork is tapered.

>IF< the new fork is also 1 1/8 to 1/14 tapered then EC34/28.6 upper and EC34/30 lower is the correct spec. Cane Creek 40 would be perfect for this bike. It has a 40 year warranty.

https://www.canecreek.com/product/forty/

The EC34/28.6 and EC34/30 combo is listed at $62 on the Cane Creek website but can probably be found for much less.


Chris King and Cane Creek 110 are overkill for this bike.



-Tim-

TimothyH

Dose the new fork have a tapered steerer like the original or does it have a straight 1-1/8" steerer?

If it has a straight 1-1/8" steerer then you need EC34/28.6 for both the upper and lower.

The FSA will work if the steerer is 1-1/8" but keep in mind that it is "New-takeoff" meaning it was uninstalled from a new bike.

steppinthrax

What do you mean by a "tapered steering tube". I'm looking at for example this one here.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F273813588657

I haven't bought anything yet, so I guess I should buy the fork before anything. Why does it matter and what dimension should I look at the fork when getting a headset?

The original is a threaded 1-1/8. My plan is to knock out the races and put in a threadless setup.

TimothyH

An example of a tapered steerer - wider at the bottom and narrower at the top - is below.



Your first post says, "I got my fork" but this post says "I guess I should buy the fork" so I'm confused.

You also state here that the present fork is 1-1/8. Cane Creek however, says that it is 1-1/8 at the top and 1-1/4 at the botom AKA tapered.

I will offer what I did previously, that the Cane Creek headset fit finder says that the original headset for a 2010 Trek 7200 is an EC34/28.6 upper and EC34/30 lower. Reference https://blue.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder. This indicates that the steerer is tapered - that it uses a larger ID bearing at the bottom (lower) and a smaller ID bearing at the top (upper).

The fork in your link is straight, not tapered. It uses 1-1/8 ID bearings at the top and bottom. If you buy the fork in your link you will need EC30/28.6 for both upper and lower. This isn't a problem but need to know.


-Tim-

Koyote

What TimothyH wrote. Cane Creek 40 is a solid headset. Chris King is a bit overkill for a hybrid.

Kapusta

I am thinking the Cane Creek headset finder is returning some bad specs. I am having a hard time believing that that bike came with a tapered fork.

First of all, the bike definitely came with a threaded steer tube, and a threaded 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 fork sounds pretty odd to me. How would a quill stem even work in a tapered steer tube?

Also, just looking at pics of a 7200, that LOOKS like a straight head tube.

It would also seem surprising to me to see a tapered head tube and fork on a low-ish end hybrid from 2010.

rollalongnow

I’ve had good results with both Cane Creek 40 and 110. 110 will cost you about three times as much as 40.

fietsbob

Integrated headset frames are machined to fit a particular company's bearing ,

external held bearings is a different scheme.. there you have choices..

buck1973

It was also manufactured from 2000 to 2005.

TimothyH

You are right about it being odd.



If this is the case then the OP needs to specify the year.


-Tim-

cpach

Cane creek 40 is my go to nice but not silly hs. Really even relatively inexpensive headsets work reasonably well. It's just really important to make sure you're matching the correct headtube standard to the intended steerer.

steppinthrax

Hello,

Based on my WTU Serial number my bike was mfg on Jun 30 2008. I checked the blue book just be be sure and they started mfg the 7200 in 2000 and ended in 2010.

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/Sear...priceMax=20000

Does that change things. How else can I find these measurements? I have a caliper etc. Yes, it has a threaded fork.

Kapusta

The headset you need will be based on your new fork, not the old one.

If you are looking to buy a fork with a straight 1-1/8” steer tube, then the headset you linked to will work.

steppinthrax

Okay,

I think I understand a bit more about what's going on. First, I was mistaken and I haven't purchased the bicycle fork yet. I was looking at the cane creek site and comparing with components being advertised on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pyramid-700...YAAOSwyQVccMil

So this fork is being advertised as 28.6 x 200mm with a 35mm race. I'm assuming I choose "press-fit" because integrated as more measurements. Cane creek has these values all within their dropdown. I choose those values and get this. I'm comparing this with the FSA model I placed ealier. It says it's a 34mm OD cup. What number is important? I did some further checks and found 34mm to be a common number of 1-1/8" headsets.