conspiratemus1

And the magnet test on the cups says.....?

Still haven’t confirmed if there is a divot (or 3) in the bearing surface of the spindle.

conspiratemus1

...which wouldn’t have happened had the previous owner not tried to remove it. Now if the fixed cup was already loose when the OP got the bike, well fair enough to remove it for “inspection”. If so, the fixed cup likely loosened because the previous owner couldn’t get it tight enough using his inadequate tools, and the same will happen to the OP, especially with those damaged flats.

But I’m happy to agree to disagree with you on this.

chefdurfee

Hmm. Allright, so I guess I will need to look around for some new parts. In that case, am I correct in thinking it would be more economical and a likely fix to find Italian threaded NR cups? Or, should I try to match a new SR spindle to the existing cups? And, refering back to John's Campy Spec Sheet (post #5 in this thread), is there a way to know which of the four different size SR spindles is the right fit for the bike?

chefdurfee

I have inspected the bearing surfaces and they look pretty good to me. I think the "divot" was just grease...a lousy photo. Also, a magnet sticks to the lockring, but not the adjustable cup. I did not know to try that test

bulgie 

The SR spindle is titanium and very expensive. The C-Record (aka Record-C, aka Record 180) is steel and possibly more economical, but I think they came in shorter lengths. I had stopped paying attention to Campy in those years so I am more useful as a resource for earlier Record-NR-SR parts, ask someone else about C-Record. But assuming your crank arms are post-1978 and double chainring, the overall spindle length should be 115 or 115.5 mm whether the spindle is NR, SR or Record.

So if you have a good smooth NR spindle about 115 mm, then yeah just find some matching cups, pretty easy.

Mark B

conspiratemus1

Well. blow me down and row me home in a dory....! (A gong for bulgie )

Out of interest, would you be good enough to photograph the inside of the adjustable cup? I’ve never seen one except on velobase and I would like to see what the pressed-in steel races look like. I can’t make anything of the poor photo you posted earlier, granted it was not taken for that reason.

And don’t fret about not knowing about the magnet test. I didn’t think to suggest it several hundred words ago...

conspiratemus1

And I was wrong to tell you to tighten the fixed cup wile you were still trouble-shooting the BB. Screw it in gently so dimensions are valid, yes, but still allowing easy removal if it turns out to need to be replaced. Usually I think we figure that the spindle is at fault, either worn or the wrong size, and the cups are good, which they generally are. If this was 1980 you would just go buy the right spindle at retail and all good. But today, you are likely to find it much easier to find NR cups to fit your “wrong” NR spindle than the right spindle to fit those Al cups, whatever they are. I hadn’t considered that possibility— I was totally blind-sided. So, and I mean no disrespect to Roman Catholics, mea culpa.

chefdurfee

chefdurfee

if only i hadn't listened...oh well, I'm sure it will come off again, its not like its been stuck on there for ages.

bulgie 

Do you have a tool that clamps onto the cup? The regular flat tool on its own is just about guaranteed to slip, especially after the flats are rounded off from the first time a tool slipped.

A plain flat tool can be OK if you also clamp it to the spindle with the spindle bolt, appropriately sized washers and a spacer. Let us know if you don't know what I mean, we can get you pictures and further instructions. Italian (and French) fixed cups need to be cranked down very tight or they'll loosen in use (unlike English/ISO and Swiss).

Mark B

chefdurfee

I got it off, thanks

conspiratemus1

Well, well, well.... Thanks.
Striking how now that we know it’s aluminum, it so obviously looks aluminum in good photos: the polish, the deformation (not just scratching) of the pin holes from pin wrench....

Let me know if you have trouble finding NR cups. I’m refitting one of my Tommasinis. The cartridge BB arrived in the mail just now. If the cups are good — should be — I wouldn’t want a whole lot for them. You could pay me when you get them. (Against forum rules to talk $$ specifically.)

merziac

Here's a DYI setup that I use every time, works every time, never failed or damaged any parts, tools, paint, frames or flesh, ever.

Yes its set up going the wrong way but you get the idea.

I prefer a stand that supports the BB for this or it can be done on the floor when you really have to lean on it.

headwind15

From looking at your picture, I would guess that you put the caged bearings in backwards. The cup should thread much further into the shell, so when you are done, the cup should be even with the lockring. Your picture shows the cup threaded out a bunch.

merziac

This has already been resolved, cups and spindle don't match, we drilled down hard on the bearing cages way back in the thread.

chefdurfee

I love that idea....can we just connect directly?

conspiratemus1

p.m. sent