Vintage '84 Miyata 1000 - What parts stay vs. What goes?! Ideas?
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Vintage '84 Miyata 1000 - What parts stay vs. What goes?! Ideas?
Looking for some help from the amazing mechanics and classic bike enthusiasts here.
I recently purchased a bike that was listed as an '86 Miyata 1000. Decals were removed, frame was re-painted. After some investigation, I'm pretty sure it's actually an '84 Miyata 1000.
Regardless, I'm very interested in upgrading/replacing/restoring some parts on this franken-bike with the goal of bringing it back to life for light touring and commuting.
Thoughts:
- It's currently set up for index'd shifting (I think the Deore XT FD might be original?) - but it doesn't shift very smoothly between gears. I usually have to shift forward and backward to "set" the gear properly or it grinds. Not sure if this is just because of parts mismatch. I'm interested in converting to brifters and would even consider friction shifting if that makes more sense for this build.
- Also looking for guidance on crankset, which I assume might be tied to the derailleur recommendations.
- Currently has 700cc tires, which I'm surprised to find, but I've replaced the brakes with two different vintage canti sets but none really fit well. They don't seem to fit this frame/700cc tire combo appropriately. I've tried the DiaCompes, other cantis, etc. Still looking for a combination that works well.
What parts on this bike do you guys recommend I keep - and what should be replaced? Any ideas?
First, here's why I believe it's actually an early '84 Miyata (not an '86), based on the serial number:
Here is a comparison of the Miyata Catalog description on an '84 vs what I think I found on the bike:
Here are some photos of the rest of the parts, as I listed them above. I could be wrong with my identification, and some of them have me baffled.
I recently purchased a bike that was listed as an '86 Miyata 1000. Decals were removed, frame was re-painted. After some investigation, I'm pretty sure it's actually an '84 Miyata 1000.
Regardless, I'm very interested in upgrading/replacing/restoring some parts on this franken-bike with the goal of bringing it back to life for light touring and commuting.
Thoughts:
- It's currently set up for index'd shifting (I think the Deore XT FD might be original?) - but it doesn't shift very smoothly between gears. I usually have to shift forward and backward to "set" the gear properly or it grinds. Not sure if this is just because of parts mismatch. I'm interested in converting to brifters and would even consider friction shifting if that makes more sense for this build.
- Also looking for guidance on crankset, which I assume might be tied to the derailleur recommendations.
- Currently has 700cc tires, which I'm surprised to find, but I've replaced the brakes with two different vintage canti sets but none really fit well. They don't seem to fit this frame/700cc tire combo appropriately. I've tried the DiaCompes, other cantis, etc. Still looking for a combination that works well.
What parts on this bike do you guys recommend I keep - and what should be replaced? Any ideas?
First, here's why I believe it's actually an early '84 Miyata (not an '86), based on the serial number:
Here is a comparison of the Miyata Catalog description on an '84 vs what I think I found on the bike:
Here are some photos of the rest of the parts, as I listed them above. I could be wrong with my identification, and some of them have me baffled.
#2
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First, congratulations on your Miyata 1000, a classic. Second, take a step back from upgrade fever.
My first impression is that most of the replaced parts were upgrades already. However, the bike looks to be set up badly. What the bike needs most is a tune up by a skilled mechanic. New parts don't do any good if they are not properly set up and adjusted.
Anyway, first order of business is get your frame spread properly and have the frame and dropout alignment checked. Or do it yourself. Rear triangle OLD should be 126 mm now. I think these were 120 originally, which is standard for 5 speed freewheels. When the frame is properly set up for 126, you will be able to run a 7 speed freewheel, or a 7 speed cassette hub. I don't know what you have now. Microshift and Shimano make 7 speed brifters, if that's what you want. No one does 6 speed brifters. Anyway, I would go for new chain and freewheel or cassette. (the chain on there is probably most of the current shift problem) Depending on what's there, new wheels may be needed.
After that, I'd replace the pedals with SPDs. Or get modern platforms if that's your preference. Quill pedals are designed to be used with toe clips, and if you're not using clips they make no sense.
Besides that, looks like nice parts on it already. Again, get everything adjusted well first. Then of course check and consider replacing all the consumables: tubes, tires, pads, cables, etc.
My first impression is that most of the replaced parts were upgrades already. However, the bike looks to be set up badly. What the bike needs most is a tune up by a skilled mechanic. New parts don't do any good if they are not properly set up and adjusted.
Anyway, first order of business is get your frame spread properly and have the frame and dropout alignment checked. Or do it yourself. Rear triangle OLD should be 126 mm now. I think these were 120 originally, which is standard for 5 speed freewheels. When the frame is properly set up for 126, you will be able to run a 7 speed freewheel, or a 7 speed cassette hub. I don't know what you have now. Microshift and Shimano make 7 speed brifters, if that's what you want. No one does 6 speed brifters. Anyway, I would go for new chain and freewheel or cassette. (the chain on there is probably most of the current shift problem) Depending on what's there, new wheels may be needed.
After that, I'd replace the pedals with SPDs. Or get modern platforms if that's your preference. Quill pedals are designed to be used with toe clips, and if you're not using clips they make no sense.
Besides that, looks like nice parts on it already. Again, get everything adjusted well first. Then of course check and consider replacing all the consumables: tubes, tires, pads, cables, etc.
#3
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I agree - get the bike set up properly (just looking at the pics, the front brake pads are on backwards). See what you need, address that and then go for what you *want*
I believe a Miyata 1000 is deserving of having the best equipment you want on it.
I have a 1990 Miyata 1000LT that I’ve upgraded things here and there. It’s a fantastic bike!
Good Luck!
1990 Miyata 1000LT by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
I believe a Miyata 1000 is deserving of having the best equipment you want on it.
I have a 1990 Miyata 1000LT that I’ve upgraded things here and there. It’s a fantastic bike!
Good Luck!
1990 Miyata 1000LT by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
Last edited by The Golden Boy; 07-05-18 at 10:39 PM. Reason: Added pic.
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Thanks guys.
I'm going to take it to a really good local mechanic and get the frame set up for 126mm along with a professional alignment and tune-up. Then we'll go from there.
I'm fighting the upgrade fever hard... need patience... fighting the urge to have the frame sandblasted and start the whole build from scratch.
Did I mention how much I love this frame? Even with this horrible set up, it rides really well!
I'm going to take it to a really good local mechanic and get the frame set up for 126mm along with a professional alignment and tune-up. Then we'll go from there.
I'm fighting the upgrade fever hard... need patience... fighting the urge to have the frame sandblasted and start the whole build from scratch.
Did I mention how much I love this frame? Even with this horrible set up, it rides really well!
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The frame is a match to my 1984 Miyata 1000, S/N L212538 (Made in late 1983 for the 1984 model year.) The fork is a replacement. This photo shows a stock fork from a 1984 1000. I suspect that this bike may have been wrecked at some time. I advise you check the head tube, down tube, and top tube for damage or misalignment.
The frame is designed for 700c, but the fork could be 27" and this might explain your brake issues.
Your 1984 Miyata 1000 is the year and model Sheldon was referring to when he called it possibly the finest off the peg touring bike of the time. Enjoy your new ride.
The frame is designed for 700c, but the fork could be 27" and this might explain your brake issues.
Your 1984 Miyata 1000 is the year and model Sheldon was referring to when he called it possibly the finest off the peg touring bike of the time. Enjoy your new ride.
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Congratulations on the bike. I have a 1984 Miyata 1000 that is a great ride and that I have ridden a couple of times in the Eroica California. The original wheelset is 700c 126 OLD 5 speed freewheel--not very common, most wheels with 126 rear spacing take 6 speed freewheels. It was specified this way to reduce dish and make the wheel stronger. I replaced the original cantis with Diacompe NGC982s, which work as well as anything modern, but are hard to find. You might try the Diacompe 983s, which are cheaper and more available. The brake levers, crank and front and rear derailleurs on your bike are non original, but may work fine. I have kept the original Shimano Deerhead derailleurs on my bike--the rear needed to be lubed to work properly as the grease had dried out, and now work perfectly. I did replace the Shimano downtube shifters with Suntour Superbe, which worked better for me.
#7
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OP should note that when taking it to the LBS. Nothing needs changing (probably). Alignment should be checked anyway, even if the stays don't need spreading. They'll charge less if they're honest.
As already mentioned, that's a replacement fork. I don't recall chrome. Looks to be a good quality one at first glance. Ditto: since it may have been crashed, the frame should be double checked for crash damage.
As long as were discussing details, the FD is too high. Those XT look to be a later addition and seem to be about circa 1990 to me. Not sure, mostly cuz it was a long time ago. Golden Boy? ENE stem must be recent. Shows the owner cares. From the deluxe neo gran compe "ENE" group which has only been around a few years.
IMHO if you wanted to spend some dough on a powder coat, that bike is worthy of it.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 07-05-18 at 09:44 PM.
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You can tell the difference from the M730-732 derailleurs from the M735 by the "XT" logo- the earlier ones have white and a less pronounced yellow- the M735 is much more yellow. Looking at Velobase- M735 stuff started in 1992.
M730- the XT is white:
M732 the XT is slightly more yellow:
M735- the XT is much more yellow
M735 XT and M900 XTR Rear Derailleurs by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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OP should note that when taking it to the LBS. Nothing needs changing (probably). Alignment should be checked anyway, even if the stays don't need spreading. They'll charge less if they're honest.
As already mentioned, that's a replacement fork. I don't recall chrome. Looks to be a good quality one at first glance. Ditto: since it may have been crashed, the frame should be double checked for crash damage.
OP should note that when taking it to the LBS. Nothing needs changing (probably). Alignment should be checked anyway, even if the stays don't need spreading. They'll charge less if they're honest.
As already mentioned, that's a replacement fork. I don't recall chrome. Looks to be a good quality one at first glance. Ditto: since it may have been crashed, the frame should be double checked for crash damage.
I'm a little disappointed that the front fork is not original to this '84 frame. I'm not sure if I should just keep it or try and find one that appropriately matches the exact year. Might not be worth finding an '84 fork unless there's some incompatibility in sizing.
Another strange thing about this bike was the owner swore it was a 56cm frame, but the catalog only lists the '84 Miyata 1000 as coming in 57cm or 60cm. Might just be bad memory from all those years ago! I'll do some investigation with a measuring tape and report back.
M700 (Deerhead) stuff was used up to 1985- by 86 M730 was the cat's pyjamas.
You can tell the difference from the M730-732 derailleurs from the M735 by the "XT" logo- the earlier ones have white and a less pronounced yellow- the M735 is much more yellow. Looking at Velobase- M735 stuff started in 1992.
You can tell the difference from the M730-732 derailleurs from the M735 by the "XT" logo- the earlier ones have white and a less pronounced yellow- the M735 is much more yellow. Looking at Velobase- M735 stuff started in 1992.
#10
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Look on the back of the body of the derailleur- you'll see the model number M730, M732, M735. Same with the front.
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I was never positive about my Miyata's vintage but it is, possibly, a 1984. That said, the bike is absolutely original, "as found", right down to the radial tires (try and find a set of those, these days), I did swap out the saddle and, sadly, the tires. They were age and weather cracked suggesting them to be unsafe to use...
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