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Front Hub Axle Broke. How can I replace it?

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Front Hub Axle Broke. How can I replace it?

Old 07-08-15, 01:51 PM
  #1  
ej23
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Front Hub Axle Broke. How can I replace it?

When I was tightening the nut on my front wheel, I got a little nuts with the ratcheting wrench and ended up just breaking the end of the axle off.

I don't know exactly what type of hubs are on the wheel because I bought them used and there is nothing indicating the brand (The owner said he didn't know either?, expect that they have Phil Wood bearings, and the rims are velocity deep Vs

The axle was hollow though, and the wheel nut seemed to have a built in washer type deal. Obviously a little clueless here about this stuff.

I was able to remove the cones but the bearings and axle were not budging, and seemed to be pretty well in place. Previous hubs I had the axle was able to come out, so I was wondering why this isn't the case for this axle.


Being a noob here, is something like hard to do and would be best left for a bike shop mechanic, or is it no big deal once it's explained.

Just thought I'd ask since this board is the place to go for all things bikes and people seem pretty helpful here

So thanks in advance for any help and insight, it's very much appreciated!!!
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Old 07-08-15, 01:55 PM
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WE really need better descriptions and/or photos to be able to fill in the missing data. Then we might be able to reply with help. Andy.
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Old 07-08-15, 02:02 PM
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I'm guessing when you say "cones" you are actually referring to locknuts. The cartridge bearings are press fit into the hub shell and around the axle. I'm not sure if it's possible to remove them non-destructively. You can use a mallet or hammer on the axle to push the axle and one bearing out, and then go back and pop the other bearing out from the inside using the axle as a punch. Since you're replacing the axle, you don't need to be careful with it.

I don't know a lot about axle compatibility; maybe that's where a bike shop would be handy.
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Old 07-08-15, 02:17 PM
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Think about replacing the Whole Wheel , then you dont have to describe things clearly to Us .
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Old 07-08-15, 02:18 PM
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Yeah, I basically broke off the end nut that holds the wheel to the fork.
I'll post some pics

Thanks.
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Old 07-08-15, 02:54 PM
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It may have been Craptastic and poorly made in the 1st place , making it easier to break.
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Old 07-08-15, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Think about replacing the Whole Wheel , then you dont have to describe things clearly to Us .
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Old 07-10-15, 12:41 PM
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Well, just got back from a Performance Bike, and the mechanic concluded that I should consider getting a whole new wheel-this was based on the fact that I don't know what kind of hub it is-oh also, because I lost one of the lock nuts.
Seems a little extreme, but I'm definitely a noob, so I can't say. I'd just assume that I can just buy a new axle
BTW, I bought the wheel set used off craigslist-they are Velocity Deep Vs-but even the seller (seemed pretty honest on non-sketchy BTW) didn't know what sort of hubs they are--he did assure me that the bearings are Phil Wood!
So I have that going for me-which is nice!

Thoughts? Insights? Hard to believe that a whole wheel is finished, based on an axle.
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Old 07-10-15, 12:53 PM
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Well you could replace just the hub and that would probably entail new spokes also. However you could get an entire new wheel, probably even a better quality wheel, for not much more than replacing the hub.
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Old 07-10-15, 02:55 PM
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Tons of stuff on ebay; here's one example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Bicycle...item2c866a7519
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Old 11-08-22, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ej23 View Post
Being a noob here, is something like hard to do and would be best left for a bike shop mechanic, or is it no big deal once it's explained.
To remove the axle you'll need to press the bearing out on one side. Support the hub on a solid surface (large bench vice, concrete floor, tree stump) with a block of wood into which you have drilled a hole larger than the bearing but smaller than the flange, then tap the axle (start gently, then harder until the bearing moves) with a large hammer (avoid battering it with an undersized hammer) until the bearing comes out the bottom. The axle will then pull out of the bearing, or you may need to knock it out.

The problem you will have is identifying the axle in order to find a replacement, if there are no markings to help. Also the bearing may be damaged by the removal process. - press your thumb hard sideways against the inner race while turning it to feel for notches - compare with the bearing you didn't remove. Some bike shops will have a press for removing wheel bearings but many will use the hammer method. Alternatively you may be able to use a 2/3-leg gear puller to remove the axle but you'll need a steel plate instead of the wooden block, and space through the spokes for the puller arms.

To refit the bearing get a socket wrench the same size as the outer race and knock that with the hammer to drive the bearing into place - this avoids damaging the bearing, but you have to be careful it goes in straight.

But I have to say it may be easier to replace the hub - for that you only need a spoke wrench and a desire to learn how to build a wheel. Or just buy another wheel and keep this one to work on later. Maybe get a torque wrench too, so you get a better idea of how hard is too hard.
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Old 11-08-22, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by grumpus View Post
To remove the axle you'll need to press the bearing out on one side. Support the hub on a solid surface (large bench vice, concrete floor, tree stump) with a block of wood into which you have drilled a hole larger than the bearing but smaller than the flange, then tap the axle (start gently, then harder until the bearing moves) with a large hammer (avoid battering it with an undersized hammer) until the bearing comes out the bottom. The axle will then pull out of the bearing, or you may need to knock it out.

The problem you will have is identifying the axle in order to find a replacement, if there are no markings to help. Also the bearing may be damaged by the removal process. - press your thumb hard sideways against the inner race while turning it to feel for notches - compare with the bearing you didn't remove. Some bike shops will have a press for removing wheel bearings but many will use the hammer method. Alternatively you may be able to use a 2/3-leg gear puller to remove the axle but you'll need a steel plate instead of the wooden block, and space through the spokes for the puller arms.

To refit the bearing get a socket wrench the same size as the outer race and knock that with the hammer to drive the bearing into place - this avoids damaging the bearing, but you have to be careful it goes in straight.

But I have to say it may be easier to replace the hub - for that you only need a spoke wrench and a desire to learn how to build a wheel. Or just buy another wheel and keep this one to work on later. Maybe get a torque wrench too, so you get a better idea of how hard is too hard.
I am guessing the OP has figured this out since July of 2015 when this thread was created and last active.

While it is fine advice I would save that advice for the active threads from around now in 2022. There are some folks who could use the useful advice but I don't think anyone most folks from this thread is are still active on the forums.

Last edited by veganbikes; 11-08-22 at 10:44 AM. Reason: to fix what @Iride01 pointed out
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Old 11-08-22, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes View Post
I am guessing the OP has figured this out since July of 2015 when this thread was created and last active.

While it is fine advice I would save that advice for the active threads from around now in 2022. There are some folks who could use the useful advice but I don't think anyone from this thread is still active on the forums.
You were doing good till you got to this part! Check out the person that made the first reply. They might take exception to that. As well as another for post #6. I think the ban is just temporary.

Edit... Nope it's a permanent ban since a tad over 2 years ago. Just checked!

Last edited by Iride01; 11-08-22 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 11-08-22, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
You were doing good till you got to this part! Check out the person that made the first reply. They might take exception to that. As well as another for post #6. I think the ban is just temporary.

Edit... Nope it's a permanent ban since a tad over 2 years ago. Just checked!
Ok fair dinkum yes some of the people are still active. Sorry Andy, you do give great advice.

fietsbob was banned. I don't remember why at this point it has been a while.
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Old 11-08-22, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes View Post
I am guessing the OP has figured this out since July of 2015 when this thread was created and last active.
Necropost alert - how embarrassing, I'm not sure how that happened. Well, clearly I wasn't paying attention and fell down the rabbit hole ...
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Old 11-11-22, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by grumpus View Post
Necropost alert - how embarrassing, I'm not sure how that happened. Well, clearly I wasn't paying attention and fell down the rabbit hole ...
Maybe pay a bit more attention when you search for older posts. Lots of older posts receive updates on a regular basis. This one hadn't. makes me wish that there could be a way to alert people when they open up a moribund thread
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Old 11-12-22, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by grumpus View Post
Necropost alert - how embarrassing, I'm not sure how that happened. Well, clearly I wasn't paying attention and fell down the rabbit hole ...
Oh no, you dumped your junk in there, that's full on thread necrophilia!
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